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When I bought her there was a longitudinal crack three feet long about 16 inches from the lower edge. Probally someone blocked the keel under the hollow section. Like the good doctor says, it can be done. (And oft is). Plus I have a gnarly lump of epoxy in the bottom of my sump, also cracked and holding water. The solution depends on your own dimensions, or possibly your views on child labor.
I have the same motor, same alternator. $180 for a total rebuild in Brooklyn. Bearings, brushes, posts, etc., etc., and a crappy silver paint job. Guy looked like a Chinese LeChiffre.
Bob is wise. His counsel is good. (not that everyone else isnt helpful, but still). Sounds like your heat exchanger is probably mung. Consequently you may have boiled off some coolant from the reservoir or from somewhere in the system unused to that high temp. Was the change in exhaust sudden or has your exhaust been gradually graying, wife-like?
Thx fellows. I am going with the general gist, that being, “under no circumstances,” rest the big girl on her belly.
Thank you for the recomendation; now if I can figure out whether a stock tank fits (I’ve made 3 3d templates from cardboard so far) I’ll know if I need to make the tank, and even better, what dimensions to make it. Darned geometry. It’s the fitting through multiple planes that confuses me.
Clean bottom, fixed 20″ prop. But have not verified tach. Engine really sounds right for rpms, but given the fact that I have an unknown variable where mostly simple mechanical configurations are involved, I’ll need to check. (and thank you for responses).
If you had to remove the head to get it out, how did they get it in? A compression sleeve has one large hole and one small. What’s under yonder tang?
And I enjoyed stripping Mizzen boom today. Looking forward to etc. How many screws in tangs and cleats snapped off below the head. Just give me a percentage so I know how many more cobalt bits to buy.
PS I may have a line on replacing mast steps. Aluminum and a buck fifty in Little Ferry NJ. Ill know this week if they are bona fide. How have folks built up their steps after shaving a few inches off the mast? Can I just encase some oak in ‘glass?
Adam
On Apr 23, 2011, at 10:12 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I ended up grinding the head down and then drilling the head down to the shaft followed by knocking the head off with a punch and hammer. Silly design…
Pete
On 4/23/2011 2:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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Adam Silverstein
Law Offices of Adam Silverstein, P.C.
(212) 233 4995
(212) 385-4661 (fax)Confidentiality Notice: The information contained in this message and any attachments is privileged and confidential information, intended only for
the use of the individual or company named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you must not review, retransmit, convert to hard copy, use or disseminate this e-mail mesage or any
attachments. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return e-mail or telephone.On Apr 17, 2011, at 6:57 PM, “quent” wrote:
Hi Adam-
W-60 manuals here:http://www.carpcoastalmarine.com/index.php/west_cat
Should answer your questions.
Best regards,
Quent
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Scored a direct hit with 300 lb ice chunk from cover onto radome, stored under (but not quite under enough) hull. Inquiring now of anyone with either an old furuno Rsb 0093 or a med range set they would part with. Jesus that was stupid.
Adam Silverstein
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Try epoxy-ing vertical half-pipes (a la Bruce Bingham) or laminating 3/4″ cleats in place (I used several layers of 1/8″ or so strips and a crazy system of articulated braces with crutch tips to hold the angles while the epoxy kicked).
Then use silicon bronze or nice plated oval head screws to install your teak, teak plywood, ash, or southern long leaf yellow pine ceiling strips in place.
Looks nice, feels nice. You can put insulating foam board in also. But as an added bonus, it prevents the oilcanning if the forward hull.
And congrats and welcome, etc.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhone(last against the wall when the revolution comes)
On Dec 19, 2010, at 8:26 PM, “jamesminge” wrote:
I bought a 1980 424 in August and am doing extensive renovations to most systems. I have stripped the wallpaper and foam from the hull in the forward cabin. Hull seems pretty darn thin. should i reinforce the area of the hull between the shelving and the v berth? I plan to do some offshore sailing. Previous owners stayed mainly in shallow inland waters in New Orleans area. How would you go about reinforcing the hull? Mat, then 1/4″ balsa, then mat, then woven roving? How expensive/time consuming will this be? Is it necessary? What else, if anything need do to the hull to sail in the windwards and around the Caribbean? Thanks from Jim in New Orleans
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That’s it. They all have boy-pornstar names. Weird.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 8, 2010, at 2:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:Johnson Duramax Brad
Brad is the part number (why I don’t know)http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productdetail.aspx?iid=JON%20BRAD&cid=18979
Length 6″
Metal Wall (D) 1รขSteel wire. Very smart. Is a ground loop really a concern with lights and other non-musical loads? Don’t they all just lead to the negativ
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 6, 2010, at 12:55 PM, wrote:
Quote:The wire gauge selected depends on the expected load. A horn that uses 10A would require a much larger gauge wire than an LED masthead lamp. The link below can be used to determine voltage drop. Don’t forget to double the wire length because you have both power and return lines. You might budget a 1/4 v drop as being acceptable. There is no hard limit for this. If your wire is significantly larger than you need you are wasting your money. If its too small, you waste power.http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
Don’t forget to lace in a steel wire with your harness. You don’t want your harness to support its own weight. Over time, the wire will stretch and cause a failure. Attach the steel wire at the masthead so it takes the weight.
Pre-tinned wire is preferable to untinned. Tinning gives the wire some resistance to corrosion. Most wire sold in marine stores is pre-tinned whereas the stuff sold in homegoods stores is usually not.
I assume that your terminal block question is related to connecting all the grounds together at the base of the mast. You want to avoid ground-loops. Here’s an explanation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_%28electricity%29Rich
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Yeah, there was. A big guy. Dark hair and a tee shirt. He called me down once the table started to lift up. I made him hug the spar and I got it detached without much more damage.
My fault I guess. They had me disconnect all the electrics and the triatic. Why should I assume they did the table?
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 3, 2010, at 2:02 PM, wrote:
Quote:I’m puzzled by this story. I’ve helped pull my mast and other masts countless times. You have to have someone below to make sure that the mast doesn’t hit the steel bar on the way out and that the wiring harness doesn’t get snagged. If someone was below, it must have been pretty obvious that there was a table attached. If nobody was below, it makes me wonder if this was the first time the yard ever pulled a mast.Rich.
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Yup. A laugh riot, punctuated by the splintering of teak. They made me do all the dangerous, stupid stuff too. I posted about the unstepping earlier.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 2, 2010, at 4:26 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:As in pulled the mast with the table still attached? LOL!!!On 12/2/2010 12:33 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
Quote:This yard tried to pull my folding cabin table through the little hole in the coachroof. They are well-meaning.Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 2, 2010, at 1:48 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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This yard tried to pull my folding cabin table through the little hole in the coachroof. They are well-meaning.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 2, 2010, at 1:48 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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