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Pete, Rich,
I replaced all of my Bomar hatches, except the small one over the shower
stall, with Lewmars. The frame on the hatch over the main saloon was
cracked so that had to be replaced. I replaced the others because I just
hate those dogs and the riser that holds them open. For me the dogs took
forever to close tightly and even then usually leaked in a heavy down pour
if both dogs were not tightened exactly the same amount. The riser always
seem to stick in either the open or closed position (whichever I didn’t
want).
I’ve got about 30 years of experience with the Lewmar Ocean hatches. 20 on
my previous boat and 10 with this one. These hatches close securely in less
than 2 seconds and I’ve never had one leak except when left in the vent
position. The only problem I ever had was with the original “Roll-Stop”
hinge, which wore out after a few hundred openings and closings. Lewmar
provided a free re-designed replacement for those hinges.
If you like those Bomars and yours are fixable, then certainly I would not
go to the $$$ expense of replacing them.FWIW, Bomar has a hatch with an extruded frame like the Lewmars, but they
are not (or were not when I did my replacement) a drop-in replacement for
the hatches with cast frames.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 2:01 PM, wrote:
Quote:I’ve had both large deck hatches fail over the years. In both cases, the
hatches broke at the hinge. I have no idea why Ithe old hatches failed. I
painted the frames every few years and replaced the gaskets once. I had the
arm that holds the hatch open fail on one of these and the small one over
the galley.I replaced both with Bowmar low-profile extruded series hatches. The frame
is the same size so it fits into the existing hole, but the hole pattern is
different. The replacements are nicer than the original cast hatches. I
still have the small hatch over the galley.These hatches could easily be defected by an intruder. All you had to do
is stand in the hatch and the dogs would pop open. This came in handy once
when I locked my keys in the boat. The replacements don’t have this defect.Given the high cost of replacement, I would recommend repainting and
repairing what you have as long as they are serviceable.Rich Carter
BlackSheep
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Like Bob, I haven’t put in any shelves just use those vacuum bags and small
duffel bags to hold linens and towels.
Unlike Bob, I haven’t put in the access ports on the bottom of the seat. So
my cutout is still sitting somewhere down there.
Having the hatch in the shower stall also made it easy to install a standard
household shower mixer.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 9:03 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
A long time ago John Stevenson and I had a discussion about the space –
about how we had laid out the door, marked with extreme care, cut the
fiberglass and watched, moderately horrified as the cutout went skittering
down below the seat area never to be seen again.You may ask yourself, “What’s the point of this story?” and I will happily
elucidate.I thought to myself that if the area below the seat was large enough to
swallow a rather big piece of fiberglass it is large enough to be stowage.
So I put a 6″ inspection plate which fits (just) on the shower stall face
of
the seat. There is quite a bit of room in there, too, which is
inaccessible
when reaching from the top. Also, if you do lose something from the top
you
can get it back out by reaching through that plate.I use those vacuum space saver bags to put spare blankets, sheets, towels
and so forth more or less just heaped in the space. I hardly ever go in
there so organization is not a big issue. I haven’t stowed anything under
the seat yet. But I still have empty drawers in the v-berth…Bob
On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 8:54 AM, wrote:
I glassed in a shelf down low with the intention of putting the shower
sump
pump there. I then put in a higher wooden shelf and painted the whole
thing
on the inside with bilge-coat. I was unable to route the sump hose into
the
new space however and ended up putting the sump pump under the galley
sink
near the freshwater pump. The sump pump had been mounted in the bilge
previously and I always had trouble with corrosion from the damp air. I
have no idea what I’ll put in the area that was supposed to be for thesump
Quote:pump.Rich
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Dawn,
I use a combination of stacking baskets, wire baskets, and other
containers. As I’m sure you are aware, whatever is in there has to be
contained or it will be on the counter or cabin sole when the sliding cover
is opened on a port tack. If I were to modify this locker I would raise the
bottom lip about 3 or 4 ” and replace the sliding covers with hinged
doors. However, I’m not going to do any of that. It works reasonably well.
I have the L-Galley so I normally don’t have to reach over the stove to get
something from this locker.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 8:04 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Dawn,
I use that area for dry goods like rice, coffee, and so forth so no
shelving
needed. You could use baskets that you can get at WalMart to organize the
stuff (I prefer the patented Bob Fine method of stacking and shoving, etc.
so you may not want to take my advice).I have seen half of the section (over the stove) used as a microwave. What
we don’t know or remember is if you have the ‘U’ shaped galley or the ‘L’
one.Bob
On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 7:57 AM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
Hi everyone
Does anyone have any suggestions for redesigning the port galley storage
area that is behind the sliding doors? If so, do you have any pics?Ours
is completely open right now and we don’t have any shelving or
organization
at all.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks,
Dawn
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Paul,
The lower sections of my back stay are 11/32″. I think the upper is 3/8″
So weight difference would amount to the difference between one section of
3/8″ cable and two sections of 11/32″ and a few less fittings. I doubt
that would be significant given the low aspect of the ketch rig.
That said, there must be reason Pearson used the delta plate. Given the
additional fittings, which also add labor cost, it probably would have been
cheaper to go with two back stays.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 3:13 PM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:I still have my rigging to replace. Any disadvantages to twin back stays. I
assume you would have more weight and windage aloft, but I don’t know if
that would be significant on our boats.Paul
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Yep, one less isolator too.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 3:00 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Would have made for a better antenna too.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 11:49 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
I replaced my standing rigging a few years ago. I regret I didn’t
eliminate
the delta plate on the Ketch back stay and go with two independent back
stays to the main mast. Would have been about the same cost – a little
more
cable, but fewer fittings. I didn’t think of it until a few years later
when berthed next to a similar-size ketch with two back stays.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 1:46 PM, Silverheels
wrote:
Quote:Quote:Good idea, Bill. An added advantage is the ability to have two main
backstays, one to each chain plate.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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I replaced my standing rigging a few years ago. I regret I didn’t eliminate
the delta plate on the Ketch back stay and go with two independent back
stays to the main mast. Would have been about the same cost – a little more
cable, but fewer fittings. I didn’t think of it until a few years later
when berthed next to a similar-size ketch with two back stays.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 1:46 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Good idea, Bill. An added advantage is the ability to have two main
backstays, one to each chain plate.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Pete,
I don’t have a Leopard ( have a Royal manual), but since no one else out
there seems to have one either …Looking at the Lofrans drawings (which may not accurately depict your unit),
I don’t see any nuts on the studs below decks. It looks like the studs
screw into threads in the below decks gear housing itself. However,
assuming that means you have freed the studs from the below decks gear
housing and have removed the drum and the base, all you have is the shaft
sticking up through the deck and it will not come loose, It appears the
only items holding the shaft in place are two keys, the lower of which
appears to engage what they call the wormwheel, but what I would call a ring
gear.So given my description of what you already know (assuming I’m even close to
accurate), there should be nothing but friction or corrosion holding that
shaft in place. I understand your reluctance to spray solvent (PBlaster,
etc.) down the shaft and let it mix with the grease on the worm gear,
however there may be no better choice. I assume you have to replace the
grease on the gear every year or so, so what’s the risk? However you can
always try the standard fine adjustment tool (2 lb mallet) first[?].Sorry to not offer anything really usefull. I’ve been looking for a powered
vertical windlass to replace my manual, horizontal unit, so your question
just got me looking at the specs on the Leopard. Since I can’t answer your
question, maybe you can answer a few of mine.1. Are you satisfied with the Leopard?
2. What size anchor and chain to you use with it? I have a 60lb Manson
on 5/16 proof coil chain.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 8:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am trying to get my Lofrans Leopard windlass of the deck as I prep the
boat for painting (and I want to change out the old teak spacer block under
it.I have removed the four stud nuts below deck but the vertical shaft will
not budge out of the transmission. I noticed a small hole in the side of
the assembly and wonder if I could run some PB Blaster in there and if that
would run down the shaft and by and by help free it but I don’t want to just
instead dilute the tranny grease.Anyone had this problem and have a solution?
Thanks,
Pete
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A centerline jackline from the traveller to the mast, in addition to the
deck jacklines is also a good idea. Going forward one would initially be
hooked into one of the deck jacklines, then using a second tether hook into
the center line jackline.
When working on the leeward side of the boat in rough weather it is best to
hooked in to weather, not a line on the leeward deck. It is possible to be
thrown or trip over the leeward lifelines and then you would be held on the
side of the boat (possibly under water) until someone else could rescue
you. I think a single hander drowned that way in the Round Britain race a
number of years ago.
My placing the liferaft on the trunk cabin prevents me from rigging. So
when I have to work the leeward side of the boat in rough weather, I hook
into the windward jackline and go down that deck. Then I cross over the
trunk cabin. Like Thatcher I have a long enough tether that I can stand on
the leeward deck while connected to the windward jackline.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Ditto, with pad eyes in cockpit and a dual tether so I’m always clipped
even
when changing attachment points.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 29, 2011 6:40 AM, “Thatcher A. Stone” wrote:FWIW
I have an extra long tether that allows me to go across the beam at its
widest point.I have jack line webbing on a cleat at the stern that lies in the gunwale
and runs fore to another cleat for the anchor. I put my tether on thatjack
Quote:line.
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Eric,
I may have one available, if you really want it. I’ve never like the flimsy
arrangement for securing this locker. I plan to replace the sliding bar
with a more substantial latch. Unfortunately this won’t happen right away.
So it won’t be available for at least a month.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 8:28 AM, Eric Lorentzon wrote:
Any one have the hardware that Pearson used for the foredeck anchor locker?
I need the “handle”
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My so far untested solution:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#PeventerRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 4:35 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
My method is a line tied to each side of the aft most bail on the boom
covered with 2ft of left over water line tubing to prevent it from getting
caught up in the blocks.
These are lead forward to a blocks port and starboard set all the way
forward on the genoa track (not optimal, but it works) then back to the
cockpit and cleated off as needed.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 9, 2011, at 1:26 PM, “Herbc” wrote:
is anyone using a boom brake, which model? Or how do you have your
preventer rigged, to the bow?
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Patrick,
I’m not sure Bob is aware the Hydrovane is an auxilary rudder vane, not a
servo (like a Monitor). Essentially you are handing a rudder off the
transom. I think it would require significant beefing up of the transom for
that load. Then again I’m not an engineer so I don’t know how much beefing
it would require. The only thing I know is the previous owner mounted a
boarding ladder on the transom with plywood backing plates and my 250 Lbs
managed to produce hairline cracks in the transom.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 8:18 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pat,
Starboard is NOT a backing material – it flexes and compresses. Use
aluminum, stainless steel, or 1/2″ plywood with epoxy encapsulation. The
transom is strong enough for what you want to do. Make your backing plates
approximately twice the size of the fittings, and you should be good to go.Bob
On Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 8:06 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I’m working along on getting my Hydrovane installed and I’m pretty close
to
the point of actually mounting it, but I’m having some second thoughts
about
the strength of the stern to bare such loads with just the two mounting
points. The area of the mounting brackets is approximately 36 Sq. Inches
each and I canwill make the backing plates out of 1/4″ starboard even
larger than that.Question: Is it also neccessary to reinforce an even larger area of the
stern say by laying up 2 pieces of 1/4″ marine grade plywood with epoxy.I
say 2 pieces instead of one 1/2″ piece becasue there is some curve back
there and I think it would be easier that way.If I did that, I thought about initially laying in some copper mesh first
and then the plywood to add to the ground plane for my SSB Antenna.I’m curious what you all think about the stern as well.
Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Also, what model galley do you have – L-shaped or U-Shaped? There are two
different ice box configurations.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 1:02 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:What material are you planning to use?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, May 31, 2011 at 7:48 PM, cstewart
wrote:Does anyone have the inside dimensions (length/width) of the original
refrigerator box. I’m not at my boat and I want to make an insulation
blanket to help hold the cold. Long range I plan to add permanentinsulation
to either the inside or outside and would like to get some ideas from
those
who have already been there.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage tolose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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I’ll be making a run down to GCS early next week to pick up mail.
I’ll try to stop in and see you.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, May 13, 2011 at 2:16 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,Silverheels is on the hard at Green Cove Springs Marina, in the work
yard ’til next Wednesday, then into long-term dry-dock storage for the
summer. I just bought a VW pop-top campervan and will be heading for the
Northwest mountains! Back here in the fall to re-commission and sail
back to the Caribbean… or wherever.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
Are U on the Ortega River or down in Green Cove Springs?Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, May 13, 2011 at 1:18 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Raining pure heat in Florida. Well into the 90’s right now 30 miles up
the St. Johns River.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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