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Patrick,
My DC ammeter has a shunt mounted on the back of the meter. Some
ammeters have internal shunts. So hard to tell, but there should be a
shunt.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, May 12, 2011 at 5:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:I was just pondering something about my DC system. I have a Marinetec
Ammeter in the panel (I think it’s the one we allmost have).There’s no shunt anywhere on my boat… how the heck does that work?
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Tor,
What Bob said.Years ago I was going replace the companionway hatch on my previous
boat and wanted to make the hatch out of tinted plastic to get more
light into the boat. I thought I needed Lexan because I needed to be
able to stand on the hatch when furling the main sail. The plastics
shop I dealt with talked me out of Lexan even though they would have
made a lot more money selling me a sheet of Lexan. The reasons they
gave for acrylic over Lexan included UV resistance and better abrasion
resistance. I think they also said Lexan expands and contracts more
than acrylic, but I not really sure of that.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 10, 2011 at 10:38 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
No matter what is original, use acrylic. It’s less expensive, it’s almost
as strong, and it has better uv resistance. I went with 3/8″ or double
installed thickness, beveled edges, bedded with Dow Corning 794.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 10, 2011 10:11 AM, “John Stevenson” wrote:Tor,
You can check with Bomar (Pompanette), but I’m pretty sure they areacrylic.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 10, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
The original hatches on my boat have either tinted Lexan or acrylic.
Anyone know which it is?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
You can check with Bomar (Pompanette), but I’m pretty sure they are acrylic.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 10, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
The original hatches on my boat have either tinted Lexan or acrylic.
Anyone know which it is?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Patrick,
My padeye for the cunningham tackle is on the mast. I use a hook on
the sail cringle, rather than the arrangement shown by Harken. I use
this tackle for the reef cringles as well, so I need to be able to
remove it and re-attach it. I also need a portion of the force on the
cringle to be forward to counter the reef line force. So mounting the
tackle on the base of the mast worked well for me.
If you are going use the tackle exclusively for a cunningham, then I
would go with Harken arrangement.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 30, 2011 at 4:02 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:I have the benefit of having my headliner down at the moment, so I’m going
to put a schaefer padeye on the deck.
http://schaeferhardware.com//SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=267As some ideas, attached are some pics of cunningham configurations from the
Harken catalog.
I like the line through the sail more than the cunningham hooks, however
unlike in the drawing it needs to be detachable, but I don’t think 8:1 or
more is really necessary. I’m going to go with a single block at the top
with a becket and a fiddle with a cam cleat on the bottom achieving 3:1 if I
have that correct.Garhauer 25-14 US Single Blocks with Becket & Shackle
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=15Garhauer 25-05 US Fiddle Block with Cam Cleat & Shackle
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=8Anyway, that’s my plan right now… 😉
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 10:31 PM, Herbc wrote:
Love this sunshine, but the morning 30s have got to go. Where’s my global
warming, we need our share up here.So where are we going to attach the cunningham. to the mast or deck.
Wait for it………….. I’m in the same boat you are.
All kidding aside, my sailmaker said the same, get that cunningham working.
Just a side note, not worthy of a thread, removed the paddle wheel for the
knot meter today, nice hole in the boat._______________________________________________
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Should have said, “…padeye near the deck base of the mast.”
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 7:57 PM, John Stevenson
wrote:Patrick,
I have a Cunningham rigged for my mainsail. I also use this tackle to
reef the mainsail. It is just a 3:1 tackle attached to a padeye near
the deck base of the boom. I have a cunningham hook on the top of the
tackle which can be inserted in the Cunningham cringle on the mainsail
or either of the two reef cringles. I just checked and can’t believe
with all of the rigging photos I’ve put on the website I don’t have
one of this. I can provide some if it helps.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:My sail maker and I want to add a cunningham to the rigging with the new
sails. I didn’t find anything in the list archives, has anyone else added a
cunningham? If so, how did you mount the lower end? I guess I could put a
padeye on the mast or maybe even a deck plate with a removable eye, just
curious if anyone has done this.Herb & Laura you enjoying this rare sunny day on Puget Sound?
Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Patrick,
I have a Cunningham rigged for my mainsail. I also use this tackle to
reef the mainsail. It is just a 3:1 tackle attached to a padeye near
the deck base of the boom. I have a cunningham hook on the top of the
tackle which can be inserted in the Cunningham cringle on the mainsail
or either of the two reef cringles. I just checked and can’t believe
with all of the rigging photos I’ve put on the website I don’t have
one of this. I can provide some if it helps.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:My sail maker and I want to add a cunningham to the rigging with the new
sails. I didn’t find anything in the list archives, has anyone else added a
cunningham? If so, how did you mount the lower end? I guess I could put a
padeye on the mast or maybe even a deck plate with a removable eye, just
curious if anyone has done this.Herb & Laura you enjoying this rare sunny day on Puget Sound?
Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Adam,
If I remember correctly, the Bllue Loctite suff is a pretty strong
adhesive. It might require a little more persuasion to remove the
fasteners, but probably nothing more than a heat gun.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 2:12 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I recall using Lok-Tite (threadlocker) for that purpose years ago, and
then sort of forgot about it. I picked up on LanoCote from an aluminum
boat owner who swore by it. I guess there are any number of products
that can separate dissimilar metals in that application, enough to
prevent them interacting. John’s Tef-Gel sounds like another good one.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Another product to bed SS fasteners in aluminum is Tef-Gel, probably
no better in this application than LanoCole. I haven’t used the
later. On a previous boat I used Liquid Life Caulk. 10 years later
the fasteners came out with only gentle persuasion (no impact driver)
and no striped heads.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 11:23 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:When putting stainless screws/bolts into aluminum, coat the ss
(especially the threads) with LanoCote. I haven’t used the stuff long
enough to know how long it’ll keep the parts from fusing, but I gather
it’s many years. After 2+ years I took out some screws as if they’d only
been in 2 days.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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Lee,
Try this page: http://www.sailingseadragon.com/SerialNumber.htmLooks like you have a 1979 model year 424, hull number 43
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Apr 24, 2011 at 11:18 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
This is my hull number: PEA59043M79A
Will someone please translate this for me or direct me to a website that will
translate it?Lee
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Aaah, now I remember – Propane is a liquid only under pressure.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 8:22 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Propane and butane both have very low vapor pressure making it a good
propellant.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 23, 2011 6:21 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:
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Pam uses Propane as a propellant? Yikes!
Actually I wasn’t aware either Propane or Butane are propellants.
They are liquids, how do they provide propellant? I think they are in
the zinc spray to provide a solvent for the zinc, which evaporates
after application. I assume the propellant for the zinc spray is just
air (or another gas) under pressure.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 4:17 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:Quote:Guys at the yard, where I acquire my half-used cans (they seem to “buy a
can” for every boat then leave them around) call it Barnacle Ban, that might
have been it’s former name.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, AprP 23, 2011 at 5:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Just was in WM on another mission and checked out the Zinc stuff
($22/can). When they say it is highly flammable they aren’t kidding.
The solvent release for this stuff appears to be propane and butane.
Maybe it will burn in the gas grill.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 8:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Rick,
I thought you might have a Y-valve on your shower pump that allowed
you to use it as a backup bilge pump. I rigged that for awhile, when
I used a macerator pump for direct overboard discharge of the shower
water. Since that pump would not nomrally clog and didn’t require a
strainer, I used it as a slow, but effective way to dry out the bilge.
Unfortunately, while that pump (Whale) never clogged, it did break
often. The failed parts were never in the repair kit offered by
Whale. When the third of these pumps failed a few years back, I
replaced it with a Jabsco that does require a strainer and gave up on
the bilge drying solution.
FWIW, the overboard discharge for my shower has a vented loop. That
was installed either by Pearson or a PO. So no real worries about
water backing up into the shower pan.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 11:58 AM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:Correct… Sump has been inactivated… Shower is pumped directly
overboard…Rick
EclipseOn Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 7:02 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob,The shower pan drain is well below the waterline. I’m sure Rick meant
his shower water is pumped overboard directly from the shower stall
drain rather than thru a sump. I set mine up that way, too, and use the
original sump box beneath the floorboards for storage.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I looked into that myself a number of years ago, when I was losing the
dinghy wars to friends with 15s. The dealer said the modifications could be
done by any decent engine shop, but I think he said it was more than just
changing the carburetor. I decided not to try it, I had the 9.9 on a 70 Lb
aluminum RIB, and that was scary enough for me.
FWIW, you might be surprised at the actual HP on any give OB. I think the
maximum shaft HP allowed for the OB to be classified as a 9.9 is 12 HP. The
manufacturers sometimes try to cheat a little over the standardized values
so that their owners could beat the owners of the other OBs.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 3:55 PM, wrote:
Quote:I’ve heard that some folks have purchased the 9.9 engine and converted it
to a 15hp engine by changing some jets in the carburetor, thereby saving a
few bucks when purchasing. If you already have a 9.9, it might be worth
looking into.Rich
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Of course planning characteristics depend as much on the load in the dinghy
as the power on the transom. With my 250 Lbs and a 9.9 on the transom of my
10′ AB RIB I can plane fairly quickly. With another 150 Lbs on board it
requires laying out over the bow to get it on a plane and a long run. I
usually don’t bother. So IMO anything less than 9.9 is at best marginal for
planning with any kind of load. Then again why do you need a planning
dinghy? In Caribbean anchorages that probably is handy. Most other places
you’re often anchored less than 1/4 nm from a beach or dock. So maybe a 5-8
hp OB with another inflatable floor dinghy is the best option.
I can wrestle my 9.9 2-stroke on and off the dinghy, but it is an effort.
If I had a 4-stroke, I’m sure I would have to use a block and tackle.
The reason I have a RIB and a 9.9 has nothing to do with cruising. It was
to remain competitive in the dinghy wars when weekend sailing on the
Chesapeake before I retired. Since then I’ve rarely had the boat on a
plane.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 8:09 PM, Herbc wrote:
the 10+ ft inflatable with inflat floor will not get replaced right away,
will try to watch for a craigslist RIB. But the engine situation has to be
addressed and am agonizing over the heavy 9.9hp 4strokes. at around 90lbs.is that going to be to heavy for the pushpit and can anyone comment on
planing with smaller units.To me the ship to shore transport is one of the most important aspects of
cruising, so its time to make it good._______________________________________________
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