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john stevensonParticipantOn more reason for docking bow-in. I sleep in the aft cabin and like to
leave the companionway hatch open during the warm months. I get more
privacy with the stern-out.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 8:32 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
James,
When you figure it out please let the rest of us know. It’s mostly a
matter of practice and getting able to anticipate the effect of stern walk
in reverse along with wind and current.
That’s the reason I nearly always pull in bow first. In addition avoiding
the embarrassment of miss-judging the wind, current and stern walk, I also
protect the Monitor windvane on the stern from contact with the dock or a
piling and the rudder from contact with hard stuff on the bottom.
The only time I back into a slip is when it has a short finger pier that
would require climbing over the bow to get on and off (love those long
floating docks). If I do decide to back into the slip I usually do it using
a spring line on one of the pilings. That only works if the adjacent boats
don’t stick out beyond outer pilings.If that is a folding and not feathering prop, it may contribute to your
problems. The standard folding props form the 70s and 80s don’t do well in
reverse and can take a while to deploy when reversing. One more thing to
factor into the docking dance.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 7:56 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I’m a new 424 owner, and recently had a devil of a time backing into a
slip facing north-south (stern was heading north), 10k east-southeast
breeze. what is the trick? i have a two blade folding prop. thanks, jim_______________________________________________
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john stevensonParticipantJames,
When you figure it out please let the rest of us know. It’s mostly a matter
of practice and getting able to anticipate the effect of stern walk in
reverse along with wind and current.
That’s the reason I nearly always pull in bow first. In addition avoiding
the embarrassment of miss-judging the wind, current and stern walk, I also
protect the Monitor windvane on the stern from contact with the dock or a
piling and the rudder from contact with hard stuff on the bottom.
The only time I back into a slip is when it has a short finger pier that
would require climbing over the bow to get on and off (love those long
floating docks). If I do decide to back into the slip I usually do it using
a spring line on one of the pilings. That only works if the adjacent boats
don’t stick out beyond outer pilings.If that is a folding and not feathering prop, it may contribute to your
problems. The standard folding props form the 70s and 80s don’t do well in
reverse and can take a while to deploy when reversing. One more thing to
factor into the docking dance.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 7:56 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I’m a new 424 owner, and recently had a devil of a time backing into a slip
facing north-south (stern was heading north), 10k east-southeast breeze.
what is the trick? i have a two blade folding prop. thanks, jim_______________________________________________
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john stevensonParticipantAlan,
I’ve never deployed two anchors. If I ever have to deploy a Bahamian Moor,
I would probably drop the second anchor (Bruce) over the stern after letting
out 2x scope on the primary anchor. Then run the second rode to the bow and
crank in the extra chain on the primary anchor. Getting both anchors back
on deck would be the problem. I guess I would haul in the secondary, and
stow it back in the cockpit, then pull up the primary. The thought of doing
this will probably drive me to replace the Bruce with a Fortress.
Obviously I’m not going to do all of the above unless it is absolutely
necessary, hopefully never.
With regard to the ICW and 2 anchors. The only places that might call for
two anchors are S. Carolina and Georgia, where the current runs strong and
reverses. I’ve anchored in several places in S. Carolina with strong
current, but the anchorages were large enough for all boats to swing on one
anchor or I was the only boat. I’ve purposely avoided the Georgia portion
of the ICW. In the N. Carolina ICW, reversing currents are not that
strong. Current there is mostly wind driven or river current.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 6:25 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Although I keep two anchors on the bow, (bruce and cqr) only one is
connected to a rode. If I needed to deploy a 2nd anchor – I have 50 ft of
3/8 chain ( main chain is 270′ of 5/16 HT) stored in the locker and 250 ft
of 3/4 nylon in the aft lazerette. I have switched primary and secondary
anchors depending on whats working at the time (or not working).
I was thinking of getting some of that 5/8 Megaplait so I can keep the
rode up front instead of digging though the locker to get the 3/4′. That
stuff is supposed the be lighter and easier to store.
I guess I’ll see what fits in there after I put the Manson 60 up there –
not too concerned with weight with all the other crap that is on the boat –
besides, it kind of balances out the generator in the back of the boat 🙂With all your travels on the ICW – have you ever needed to deploy a 2nd
anchor as the WaterWay guides suggest or is most of that hype?
Alan— On Tue, 9/20/11, John Stevenson wrote:
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john stevensonParticipantAlan,
As I think you know, I have a similar anchor roller set up as you do – two
rollers slightly cantilevered over the bow on each side of the forestay. I
used to carry a 44 Bruce and a 43 Harborfast (Chinese CQR). They fit snugly
side by side in the rollers. When I placed the Manson 60 in the starboard
roller I might have been able to fit the Bruce next to it, but it didn’t
look practical. Hauling the Manson into the roller is enough of a chore
without having to lift it around the Bruce. So I only carry the Manson on
the bow. I sold the Harborfast and the Bruce is stored in the port cockpit
locker. The result is I’ve removed about 20# from the bow.Of course, if I have to deploy the Bruce it will be an effort to haul it and
the rode down the deck to the bow. It will also take time. However, even
if I could fit the Bruce on the bow (and add 20# over the weight of the
Bruce and Harborfast) I don’t think I could live with the weight of two
anchor rodes in the chain locker – nor do I have anyway of keeping them from
becoming a chain macrame. So the 2nd rode would either have to be short
light rode or it has to be stored aft. If I have to haul the rode down the
deck it isn’t that much more to also haul the anchor. So for now I have a
single anchor and a single rode rigged on the bow.The only time I’ve every had to deploy the 2nd anchor was years ago in
Puerto San Antonio, Ibiza – a harbor with notorious poor holding ground. A
front came through around midnight and the entire anchorage (well nearly)
started dragging anchors. A 70 fter went by us at about 2 kts, lots of
screaming and DSC alarms going off. The wind really wasn’t that strong
(maybe 25kts, briefly) but with every anchor around us (including ours)
dragging I couldn’t get the anchor up before it fouled with several others.
We were shortly going to become the middle of a sailboat sandwich, so I cut
my rope rode, tied on a float and cast the anchor off. We left the harbor
for several hours. Then, when things had settled down, we re-entered the
harbor and anchored with the Harborfast for the rest of the night. The next
day we retrieved my anchor. I wanted to leave the harbor ASAP, but my crew
wanted to tour Ibiza so I let them go and stayed on board until the
following day when I could pry them loose from Puerto San Antonio.In that incident I was glad I had to 2nd anchor on the bow and the 2nd rode
in the foredeck locker. That was a short rode of 10′ of chain and 150′ of
rope. However, while my friends were touring Ibiza and before I could
splice the primary rope back onto the chain for the Bruce, that lousy
Harborfast started to drag in less than 15kts. So although I had a 2nd
anchor available it was only a temporary option.The only way I can quickly release my current anchor would be to let all of
the 300′ or chain go. For my backup rode I want more than 10′ of chain and
150′ of rope, which means a lot of weight on the bow unless I store the rode
aft. So that is my current configuration.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Sep 20, 2011 at 9:04 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Alan, my old saw: I’d rather have it and not need it than need it and not
have it.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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john stevensonParticipantAlan,
Doing the grunt work of setting up and tearing down the shows, plus taking
tickets and selling stuff during the shows. I’m heading up there in a
little over a week. Hopefully can get a mooring up in Spa Creek.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 10:16 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:John,
What “work” are you doing at the show?— On Fri, 9/16/11, John Stevenson wrote:
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john stevensonParticipantIt may have been factory installed as a special order. At the time our
boats were built Hood Systems was the principal supplier of in-mast furlers
in the US and they were located next door to the Pearson plant in
Portsmouth, RI. So it wouldn’t have been a big deal to have spec’d a Hood
system for a 424 Sloop.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Sep 17, 2011 at 9:04 AM, Info @ pearson424 wrote:
I’m sure it’s been replaced but will verify with others. I don’t recall
see any option for in-mast furling on the original paperwork.– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178Robert Hovey wrote, On 9/16/11 5:58 PM:
Hi
I am thinking about making and offer on a 424 located on the Great Lakes.
This boat is Sloop Rigged with in Mast furling. The boat is a 1980 and I
was wondering if this was available from the factory or if the Rig has been
replaced. If the rig is newer I may affect my offer.Thanks
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john stevensonParticipantI’ll be there. I’m working the show this year. Plan to be touring on the
first day, then working somewhere the rest of the show. So my day to meet
during the show would be on Thursday. Otherwise after the show shuts down
for the evening.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 16, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Alan wrote:
Never too early to start making plans…..Who is all going to the boat show
in Annapolis?
Thought we could make plans to meet for a cocktail.
Alan
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john stevensonParticipantOne of the advantages of the aft cabin berth in the 424 is that it is
almost exactly a full-size berth. That is full-size fitted sheets are
almost a perfect fit (a little wide at the foot, but right on at the head).
Full-size used to be called a “Double”, but Rich’s description is probably
more accurate.
Anyway you can buy fitted sheets for the berth at Walmart.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 8:27 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Michael,
I can only speak of the 424 with the two companionway configuration. The
V-birth in the 422 and 424 is probably very similar. I find the bunk hard
to get in and out of and it’s a bit short for me. I’m 6′ 2″. The main
cabin is good for guests, but I wouldn’t sleep there. The aft bunk is a
bit
narrow, but it doesn’t matter in my case. My wife gets half of the bed and
I get the other half. Her half is in the middle and my half is on both
edges. Having a wider bunk wouldn’t help. She pins me up against the side
of the hull. At least one owner extended the width of the aft bunk. I’ve
considered doing the same, but why bother 🙁The stock cusions are thin but are probably replaced in most boats.
IMHO, the 422 has more living space at the expense of storage.
Rich
Quote:
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john stevensonParticipantPatrick,
My mechanic had to bevel the forward edge of the mizzen brace. Of course
that was after removing all of the engine wiring and fuel lines.
That soft fuel tank is sounding better and better. I think some of those
designs from the company Quent identified look pretty substantial (most
likely substantially priced as well).
If you are going to replace the tank and not the engine, this sounds like
a job for a sawzall.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 3:26 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
I had to cut off the fill fitting to make it easier to slide under the
mizzen brace.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 9, 2011, at 12:13 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as
it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan,
as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had
to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding
in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section
in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches
already.
Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
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john stevensonParticipantSkip,
I expect some of the owners who have actually aligned their drive shafts
themselves can offer specific advice on this subject. I have not done it
myself, just watched mechanics on my WO do it and discussed it with them.
The critical alignment is between the V-drive and the propeller shaft. The
V-drive mounts are used to make that alignment. The alignment between the
transmission and the V-Drive is less critical as there is U-joint to
compensate for any slight miss-alignment.
So my understanding of the procedure is to first align the shaft to the
V-drive, using the V-Drive mounts, then make any adjustments that are
necessary to align the jack-shaft to the V-Drive with the engine mounts.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 5:20 PM, skipmac wrote:
I am installing new motor mounts, cutlass bearing, etc so will have to do a
complete realignment. I know how to check the alignment but where I am
confused is the procedure for adjusting the motor mounts to move the
engine/transmission/v-drive to get the flange clearance to match.Now I am the orphan child here with a 422 and not the 424 so my situation
may be a little different. 1984 model with the original W58, Velvet Drive
and Walter 26D v-drive. The question I have is adjusting the motor mounts.
In my boat there are 6: 2 at the front of the block (aft in the boat), 2
at the back of the block, and 2 on the v-drive.Now I’ve installed engines and aligned standard straight shafts with 4
motor mounts but the 6 has me puzzled. After a bit of thought I decided
that the adjustment should be made at the four corners (front of the block
and v-drive) and adjust the middle pair of mounts enough to support the
weight in the middle.After a few tries I finally got someone at Walter to talk to me and he said
based on the serial number that setup did not have mounts on the v-drive and
they weren’t needed. Since I had 6 mounts sitting in a box on the table in
front of me I was pretty sure the V-drive had a pair.So, are the 424s shipped with 6 mounts or 4? If 6 how do you do the
alignment?Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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john stevensonParticipantDon,
I can only guess at this, but reasons not to use bladder tanks1. Difficult to secure in boat
2. Limited capacity compared to metal tank
3. Coast Guard approved for fuel?
4. Insurable?
5. Difficult to attach fittings
6. Short useful life compared to metal tankRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 10:58 AM, kalinowski wrote:
As a naive aluminum tank owner (#135), why couldn’t bladder fuel tanks be
utilized as permanent replacements? Sounds a lot easier than pulling the
engine.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
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john stevensonParticipantLee,
No, I don’t know when Pearson changed the tanks to aluminum. My new tank is
aluminum, but the hold-down straps are isolated from the tank by cork
strips.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 8:24 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:mine is hull 78 and had to replace the aluminum leaky tank-many many pin
hole leaks-everywhere on the bottom-not one or two.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
john stevensonParticipantPatrick,
Many of the aluminum tanks supplied by Pearson developed pinhole leaks.
Hopefully this is not the case with your tank, but the hydrostatic pressure
of the fuel overflow might have been enough to open a pinhole. I believe
the pinholes were caused by electrolysis between the tank and the hold-down
straps. Earlier 424s came with iron tanks, which did not have this problem.
If there is no fuel evident on the tops and sides of the tank, could the
fuel you see have been there before and you only noticed it because of the
spill?
Clean it up and see if any fuel comes back. Good luck.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 1:43 PM, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
When fueling up the other day we had an overflow at the fill and at the
vent on the stern. (Way more poerful pump than I was used to). Not that much
fuel spilled, but now there is some diesel dripping from the forward area of
the tank and i’m not sure if its from a leak or the overfill event.I’ve crawled all over the lazarettes and the tank and all the fittings look
fine and there’s no fuel on the top or sides of the tank.Do I have a leak or is there some other place the fuel could have squeezed
out when we overfilled? Right now I’m hoping it just a clean up problem…
🙁Thanks,
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
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john stevensonParticipantSarah is OK, but took some toe rail damage on a piling during the storm.
Just got power back an hour ago. Lots of folks in S. Maryland are still
without power and will be for at least a few more days.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:32 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Quote:All’s well in Newport, OR. Just waiting for the next window to make another
leap down the coast or all the way to San Francisco.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 8:45 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:All’s well in Montana.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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john stevensonParticipantAdam,
Do you have feather prop, e.g., Maxprop, and was the pitched changed on you
last haulout?Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Aug 19, 2011 at 11:17 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Bottom fouled?Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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