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Tor,
Even though I think that T/T issue is mostly a “Cruiser Legend”, I agree it
doesn’t pay to advertise.IMO it is much easier for the thieves to move through the anchorage looking
for boats with a missing dinghy. They come along side and knock on the
hull. If no one answers they come on board. If some one answers they
shout, “Hey Mon (Senor), wanna buy some fish (lobster, coconuts, etc.)”.
Anyway that appears to be the way the small-time thieves in the Bahamas tend
to work. Even if they stake out the dinghy dock to ID a boat from the T/T
name, they still need a ruse if they discover not everyone went ashore in
the dinghy. The best protection (IMO) from thieves is to not have the most
attractive boat and dinghy in the anchorage. A brand-new outboard is a
“Steal Me” sign to the petty thieves, unless it is less than 10HP. I don’t
think a 2HP outboard has ever been stolen on purpose[?].Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 11, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Patrick,You might want to reconsider putting “T/T Deep Playa” on your dinghy.
When that dink’s at a dinghy dock, it’ll be an advertisement to theives
that no-one’s home aboard the mothership. Why make it so easy for them
to ID your unguarded boat?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Cada,
Haven’t been to Onancock for at least 20 years. Of course that is very near
Crisfield as well. I destroyed more brain cells in that harbor than I could
ever afford to lose on repeated visits over Labor Day. Larbor Day …
September, maybe I can give up a few more brain cells, not like I can take
them with me. One more destination to consider.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Apr 7, 2011 at 5:46 PM, wrote:
Hi to All,
Sorry I am a little late jumping into this discussion – we have been out
of
pocket for awhile.We live in Onancock – across from Deltaville – on the Eastern Shore of
Virginia. Jubilee is berthed at the Town Marina – very small. There is
a
nice large anchorage with good holding. We would be interested if dates
work.Anyone down this way plan on a stop in a great little town with some nice
eating. We will show you around – we have wheels available.Cada
Jubilee No. 100On 03/29/11, Rick Dugger wrote:Are there any 424
owners interested in a raft up in the southern Chesapeake
Bay this spring/summer/fall?
There are 3 – 424s in the Mobjack Bay/ York River area that I know of.
There are others in Deltaville, Onancock and Cape Charles.
There are many great anchorages between Reedville and Yorktown.
Rick
Eclipse
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Since I may not be heading south of the Patuxent until October, my preferred
September location would be closer to the Potomac or even north of there.
Reedville isn’t one of my favorite places, at least when the Menhaden plants
are processing. However there are lots of anchorages on the Great Wicomico
that are not so close to the plants. Also consider anchorages on the
Potomac – Coan River, Yecocomico River, St. Marys River, and Smith Creek.
I’m also up for any of the anchorages in Fleets Bay.On Tue, Apr 5, 2011 at 10:15 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
*Capt Bill, Bob Fine, Bob Hawkins*
It looks like we need to plan something in September when Bob Fine is in
the
Chesapeake.
*Bob Fine* – I usually take a 1-2 week cruise in September. As we get
closer
to September we’ll need to look at dates.
*Bob Hawkins* – Eclipse is in the water at Severn River Marina now. We plan
to take her back to Mobjack Bay Marina this weekend (not sure which day).
How is the entrance to Salt Ponds? At one time it was pretty tricky getting
in and out of there.
*Capt Bill Tice* – don’t you keep Charisma in the Deltaville area? We have
a
week off June 11-19 and will be anchoring in Fishing Bay or Reedville on
the
weekends as we go North and again on our return. Maybe we could get
together
then.
Regards
Rick
Eclipse
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Thanks again, Quent. One more bookmark
Browsing this site I found I could have bought a new VD tranny and oil
cooler for only a few $100s more than it cost me to rebuild mine. I didn’t
spend a lot of time looking back in November, but the best deal I found on a
new one was over $2k.On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 4:19 PM, quent wrote:
Oops, sorry, that was for W-58!
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Thanks, Quent – another parts source to bookmark
They don’t say so in the page your reference, but on the page that links to
that one they state that you must send the old unit for the casting. So
this source is probably not much different from dealing Defender or other
suppliers Sen-Dure might recommend.On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 2:50 PM, Philippe Fontaine wrote:
Quote:Hi Bill.
I would suggest you contact Sen-Dur, the original manufacturer for advice. 800
394-5112.
When I replaced my hx in the Spring of 1999 they gave me the following
information:Westerbeke P/N 21903 = Sen-Dure P/N 2729-3-5 (material is copper)
They would need my old hx so that they could reuse the bronze castings that
connect the hx to the manifold. They also offered a copper-nickel unit under
P/N 2729-3-7. They suggested that I deal with them through one of the marine
equipmant suppliers in order to save about 20% off the Sen-Dure list prices
and provided the following estimated prices:
2729-3-5 estimated price $309.60 (list $383)
2729-3-7 estimated price $387.00 (list $484)
I elected to order through Defencder in Connecticut and got the -7 for
$377.52 plus $5.65 for shipping of the old unit to Sen-Dure. Total time from
delivery of old unit to Defender to pick-up of new was one month.I noticed that Quent found a -5 unit on the web for $425, with no mention
of having to return an old one. So that might be more attractive given that
my price info is 12 years old. But, it wouldn’t hurt to check both,
especially if you are interested in going with copper-nickel.
Good luck.
Phil Fontaine
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Rich’s post reminds me that the W60 Heat exchanger body is a custom
casting. The mounts for the W60 are not standard. If you need to replace
that or the whole thing you will need to send the body to Sendure so they
can cast a new one. I don’t think anyone will have one in stock, except
Walter (aka Seawater). If he hasn’t used it for parts himself, he has the
one on my W60, which was new in 2003 or 4. I think the cost was a little
over $300 back then.On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 11:00 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
The heat exchanger is made by sen-dure. They can build you a new one on an
exchange basis.Rich
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 1, 2011, at 6:25 PM, wrote:
Hey, Bob, thanks for getting back. The news came via phone today from my
Deltaville mechanic–I am 4 hours away at my Smith Mt Lake home, so Ihave
not seen it yet. I had been leaking coolant through both freeze plugs in
the
H2O reservoir which he had fixed and pressure tested. But in
reassembling
and testing he discover that my fresh mix is seeping into my raw H2O
loop.
This solved the mystery of why I had been losing fluid in the reservoir.
I am going to the boat tomorrow and will be talking to him. KnowingHenry,
If it were at all possible to repair, he would. As for me doing it? HA!
Thanks again for the comeback, and if I don’t hang on to this exchanger,
it’s yours.
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 4/1/2011 5:06:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Hi Bill,
Just out of curiosity, why do you need a new one? I ask because I’ve
often
wondered if they are repairable if it’s a leaking tube (if only one, you
can
safely plug it. Actually, I’ve seen engines run quite happily withalmost
50% plugged) If more than that, can it be re-tubed? It would be a long
and
tedious process involving a drill, solder (or brazing), bronze tubing,and
a
lot of patience. On the W58, I think repair would be possible.I don’t know where you’d get one, frankly, except Westerbeke, but I’d
sure
like a whack at fixing it if you’re going to throw the old one away.
Bob
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 4:31 PM, wrote:
Well, at least it happened here instead of down in the Bahamas
somewhere… I need a new heat exchanger for my W-60. One is available
thru Westerbeke
for $900, but if any one has any ideas, a “spare”, or a parts link,please
let me know, thanks,
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA
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If indeed the shunt is producing significant resistance on the starter
circuit, it must be defective. As Bob wrote, the resistance should be
negligible, unless the shunt is broken (or it really isn’t a meter shunt).
I’d just throw it away.On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 9:04 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Walter,
The reason the shut is there is because on a normal engine installation all
power is tapped from the starter. Marine installs are different in that
there are two main circuits, engine and ship’s power. For true current
draw, move the shut to a single ground point. Otherwise, move it to the
line that powers the dc panel.The shut should have very little resistance. Negligible when considering
ship’s loads.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 1, 2011 8:09 AM, “Seawater” wrote:Thanks, all.
It was indeed a shunt resistor for the ammeter. I don’t see the reason
for
passing the starter current through the resistor, so I am bypassing it.Thanks for the heads up on the welding wire. I used the term loosly to
mean 00 fine stranded wire. I will have to see if it is marine graded.
The circuit breakers seem to be for the pre-heaters and the alternator,
but I have not confirmed.
Walter
SV Madness
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I will be on my way north in June and back south in october. Anchorages in
the Piankatank, Rappahannock, Great Wicomico, Patomac, and Patuxent will be
on my way north and south. Not to mention Onancock, Pocomoke, Crisfield on
the eastern shore, plus Tangier and Smith Islands. I plan to cruise back to
many of those locations and others this summer.On Tue, Mar 29, 2011 at 9:34 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I plan on being down there this fall. September, on my way south….
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 29, 2011 9:19 PM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:Are there any 424 owners interested in a raft up in the southern
Chesapeake
Bay this spring/summer/fall?
There are 3 – 424s in the Mobjack Bay/ York River area that I know of.
There are others in Deltaville, Onancock and Cape Charles.
There are many great anchorages between Reedville and Yorktown.Rick
Eclipse
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Pete,
I am also cautious about using this source, although I have a lot of their
products on board. I don’t know what SS alloy they use on their products
(it probably varies – they may use many different suppliers in China), but I
no longer use their products for external fittings. I bought some Bimini
fittings several years ago. I wasn’t ready to use them at the time, just an
impulse buy at a great price. As a test I attached one of the fittings to
my Bimini tubing over the winter. By the spring that fitting was pitted and
showing rust. The rest of my Bimini hardware was just fine. I think some
of this stuff is great and excellent value. Some of the stuff is junk.
Unfortunately there is no way to tell. Stuff you bought last year might be
fine. The same stuff this year might not.
Again, I’ve gone to just using this supplier for cabin hardware.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 5:52 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I recently ordered some anchor chain tensioners from marinepartsdepot.com.
They came promptly as have my other orders to them. This time though, the
quality of the parts was definitely substandard. Basically the levers were
not machined in such a way that they could swing through their full radius
(did I use the word correctly this time Tor?). I emailed them and got no
response. After several more days, I emailed again. Still no response.
Their phone number goes to a generic “voicemail for the number….” box
which is full and cannot take more messages.Very disappointing. Use caution with this company.
Pete
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Aah, found it at defender, not under the same name
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|536112&id=535733On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 2:44 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Joe,
Are you talking about Rainbow Markers that go inside the chain link? I
haven’t found a source in the US.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Rich,I’ve tried paint but it wears off too soon. I’ve tried plastic tie wraps
but
they get brittle and snap off. Now I have a soft plastic label with the
actual
numbers of feet which is very handy because you can actually read the
depth and
not have to count how many ties have passed and they are different colors
for
each depth too in case you miss the number when the chain goes by quickly.
I
like these a lot and recommend them. I think I bought them at a Budget
Marine,
but I’m sure you can find them elsewhere.Joe,
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Joe,
Are you talking about Rainbow Markers that go inside the chain link? I
haven’t found a source in the US.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Rich,I’ve tried paint but it wears off too soon. I’ve tried plastic tie wraps
but
they get brittle and snap off. Now I have a soft plastic label with the
actual
numbers of feet which is very handy because you can actually read the depth
and
not have to count how many ties have passed and they are different colors
for
each depth too in case you miss the number when the chain goes by quickly.
I
like these a lot and recommend them. I think I bought them at a Budget
Marine,
but I’m sure you can find them elsewhere.Joe,
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+1 on Bob’s recommendation of colored wire ties. All of the paint on the
first 75′ of my chain disappeared after one winter anchored in the Bahamas.
I replaced those markers with wire ties in 2009 and most of them are still
there.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 9:04 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Rich,
Go to Home Depot and get a container of the florescent wire ties – then
place them at the intervals you like, a pair at a time. They will go
through the windlass but eventually will fall off. However, they’re cheap
and easy to replace. And there isn’t a problem seeing them.Bob
On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 8:54 AM, wrote:
I’m replacing my anchor chain, 3/8 ht x 200 ft. I’ve previously painted
stripes on the chain every ten feet so that I can tell how much chain isout
there. The pain works but must be renewed each year. I see some plastic
markers available that look durable but I wonder if they stay in place or
pop out and get lost. Has anyone used these?Rich
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I have rigged the emergency tiller with tackle, but I sure hope I never have
to use this arrangement, especially single-handed. It’s there and it might
get me home, but …
I’m not sure there is any good solution to the emergency tiller for this
boat. That’s the bad news. The good news the reason the emergency tiller
is difficult is that the rudder is pretty robust. Beyond a major hole in
the hull, the worst situation I can think of when off-shore is the loss of
the rudder. That is an unlikely event with the 424 as long as the skeg
holds together.
With a balanced spade rudder an emergency tiller is very practical,
unfortunately it may have nothing to turn if something strikes the rudder.Rich is right about checking the deck plate for the emergency rudder. Mine
was seized and I had to replace it.On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I never liked the emergency tiller setup on the 424. One would think that
if the steering failed, it would happen in rough conditions. Having to
open
up a 4″ hole in the cockpit sole to attach the steering tiller doesn’t
sound
like a good idea. It seems that the rudder should have some kind of rubber
gasket that seals the hole when in use.I don’t know if you folks have tried to open the tiller plate but it’s a
bear. It’s a good itea to grease the threads every now and then.Rich
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Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter. There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck), but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail). I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug, tight,
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Jim.
IMO, the wheel pilot is probably adequate for ICW motor trips, but not
off-shore where the seas will over-power it. It is also likely inadequate
for sailing under autopilot in anything more than 10-12 kts of wind. The
only 424 that I know of that has made ocean passages and long cruises with a
wheel autopilot is Whoosh. However they make great use of their Sail-O-Mat
windvane and rarely motor on a passage except in dead calms. I had a
Raymarine wheel pilot that came with Sarah, which is basis of my negative
opinions.
I think most of the autopilot manufacturers use a tiller mounted on the
rudder shaft rather than attach to the quadrant. Raymarine works that way.
The only mod for my Raymarine installation was the glassing in of a mount
for the drive unit.On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:10 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am refurbishing a 1980 424 which has no auto pilot. Can I get away with
the $1500 Raymarine wheel mounted smartpilot. It is recommended for max
16000 displacement boats, but since the 424 seems to have little helm, I
thought I might get away with it. Or should I get a below decks model which
will cost at least $3500 more? I would like to think I will do a bit of
offshore (three days max) at some point, but don’t plan to cross any oceans.
Which manufacturer makes the unit most compatible with the 424 which
requires no quadrant work or other major modification? All replies
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