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Thanks, Rich. That was what I was thinking about, but I didn’t think those
small, expensive bottles would cover much area. Now I remember I used one
bottle for all of the original letters with some left over. Maybe it’s just
one bottle of black and one bottle of white to get the job done. Of course
I’ve got to buy the stencils as well. Looks like all the alternatives are
at WM so I’ve just got get out the catalog and decide which way to go.On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 10:45 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:West Marine sells what they call inflatable boat paint. It comes in gray.
I painted a small area large enough for the registration numbers and then
put lettering over that. The main reason that I painted the area is
because
the state registration sticker won’t stick to hypalon.Rich
Quote:
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Thanks, Joe. I’ll look into that. The paint ain’t cheap either.
On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 9:15 AM, Joe Shimkonis wrote:
W M sells a plague that’s made for inflatables.You supply the company your
registration numbers and it comes ready to go,simply glue it on over the
current numbers.not cheap $50.Sent from my iPad
On Mar 15, 2011, at 17:39, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:I need to do this too, but to remove the numbers and put on T/T Deep
Playa.
I think the best way to go is to glue on a strip of Hypalon and then put
the
lettersnumbers on top.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 3:04 PM, John Stevenson <
>wrote:
Well, I finally changed the registration of my boats (Sarah and the
dinghy)
from MD to FL. It wasn’t entirely voluntary. The FL DNR and State
Police
vessels go by my berth on the Ortega Rive several times a week. They
keep
looking my way. My guess it won’t be long before they inquire about my
registration.
Anyway, that deed is done, both vessels are registered in FL. Noproblem
for Sarah, I just cover the MD sticker on the mast with the FL one. The
dinghy is another matter. I need to replace the MD registration numbers
with the ones for FL.
My dinghy is an AB Hypalon RIB and the current numbers were painted onwith
that stuff WM sells. I don’t think it will come off, it has stood up to
8
years of Sun and water. My initial thought is to paint over the numbers
with black (same color as the numbers), then stencil in the new numbersin
white. My problem is what type of paint to use to cover the old
numbers.
I
can’t see using the same paint for that purpose, it would take severalof
those little expensive jars to do the job. Any suggestions on what will
stick to Hypalon?—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Pete,
Bob is probably right – Forespar. I had these on my previous boat for the
whisker pole. I crewed on a friends boat for races and these fittings were
used for the reaching strut.On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Wow, that was fast. I have not seen this particular design in any
catalogs, but have not looked at defender yet. The PO spent a lot of time
on the Med and got a lot of parts there.Pete
On 3/7/2011 5:24 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
They weren’t standard – they are easily acquired from Forespar or Lewmar
or
someone like that. Easy peasy. Look at Defenders.com.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or
if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip
on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one
on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
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Pete,
This looks like a pad-eye for a whisker pole. Not one my mast, but I have
been planning to add one. My guess Nicro-Fico.On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
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Just to nitpick, the American President who sent the US Navy to destroy the
Barbary Pirates was Jefferson and it was 200 years ago (although Monroe had
to do it again a few years later). Roosevelt’s role in dealing with N.
Africa had nothing to do with pirates, but the rescue of an rich, ex-pat by
the name of Pedcaris (sp ?) who was kidnapped by a Moroccan tribal leader in
an attempt to secure territory from the then Moroccan ruler. The Pedcaris
incident helped secure Roosevelt’s election (he was President at the time
due to the McKinley assassination), and it was made into a Sean Connery
movie back in the 70s.
I know you all wanted to know this.On Sat, Feb 26, 2011 at 9:50 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Right now there isn’t any government in Somalia and there hasn’t been a
government there for years. It is a land ruled by no one accountable to no
one.lee
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Patrick,
I have the same 3 lockers under the bunk. The middle one is where my
6-gallon water heater is located. My AC frig compressor is in the aft one.
The aft locker is next to the engine.On Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 4:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Not counting the two drawers under the the bunk that I converted to
cabinets, I have three accessible areas from under the mattress. One is
outboard and forward, the other two are aft of the two drawercabinet
cavities on the front of the bunk and next to the engine.Do those of you with the water heater under the aft bunk have a fourth area
just outboard of the two lockers next to the engine?My water heater is fine where it is in the port lazaretre, but I was
thinking if some of you have found an additional space under the aft bunk
big enough for a water heater, then I need to plan to open up the space for
additional storage.Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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I’m surprised that you will have to lift the engine to remove the
transmission. It certainly was not required with my Yanmar. It is the same
Velvet Drive as I believe are on most W58s. The replacement plate purchased
from Mack Boring does not have springs. Here are a couple of pictures.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/OldPlatevrsNewPlate2.JPG
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/NewPlatInstalled.JPGThe first pictures is of the new plate (foreground) and the old plate
(background). The second picture is the new damper plate installed on the
engine. This looks like an R&D (PYI company) plate, and checking the Mack
Boring website it appears they are now specing R&D dampers and couplers.On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 9:36 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:With the W58 and the way it’s tucked in there. I would probably just a
block chain fall to lift up the back end of the engine enough to be able to
slide the transmission off…… maybe a days work figuring I would not have
to disconnect too much.
There is not that much to the damper… a plate and a few springs. I wonder
if the springs are just to heavy and not allowing it to ” damper”
alan— On Fri, 2/18/11, John Stevenson wrote:
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Alan,
Pulling the transmission does not appear to be a lot of fun, but maybe not
that big a deal. That said by the guy whose only experience with the task
is watching a couple guys remove mine and then re-install it. It is a two
person job though. It was about 1/2 hour each way, off and on. Just don’t
drop that sucker in the bilge.On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 9:04 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:What worries me now, is that the noise I am getting is from the VDrive,
but because of a bad NEW damper plate.
Could be a B***** to replace now that I have engine back in….
alan— On Fri, 2/18/11, wrote:
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On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
Quote:Hi John,
It is just plastic no foam it is a light PVC material. I will have to look
into the wall liner option. I tend to stay away from materials sold at
home
stores as they tend to contain formaldehyde and off gas quite a bit. Also,
we have learned (painfully) from our mistake of NOT using marine grade
plywood when replacing the damaged teak around the portlights by using
standward plywood and we have vowed to never assume it will not get wet!
🙂
Thanks,
DawnOn Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 1:05 PM, wrote:
Quote:Send maillist mailing list submissions toTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
or, via email, send a message with subject or body ‘help’ toYou can reach the person managing the list at
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than “Re: Contents of maillist digest…”Today’s Topics:
1. materials for headliner replacement (Dawn Rodney)
2. Re: materials for headliner replacement (John Stevenson)
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 12:04:37 -0800Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dawn,
I’m not familiar with Sintra plastic, nor have I replaced the headliner on
this boat, but I know several Pearson and other boat owners have used the
standard wall liner from Lowe’s. It has a smooth side and dimpled side. It
is easy to work with and is not likely to be damaged if it gets wet due to a
deck leak. No need to paint or cover it with vinyl. As far as I know they
are all happy with the results.
I would stay away from foam-backed material, if that is what Sintra is
like. Foam gets moldy very fast and will deteriorate a lot faster than
other solid materials. If you go with plywood I recommend Luan rather than
marine grade. For this application I believe marine grade is overkill and
Luan normally has one clear, paint-able side. Again you can get it at
Lowe’s or Home Depot.MO, FWIW.
Sintra is the name of the city in Portugal that used to be the summer home
of the Portuguese royal family. I know you wanted to know that.On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
Quote:Hi guys and gals!
Patrick and I got a recommendation to take a look at Sintra plastic to use
as a replacement material for the headliner. Has anyone worked with this
before or thought about using it on the boat? I picked up a sample today
to
take to the boat and try it out. I do have some concerns about the
hardiness of the material as it tends to get dinged up kinda like foam
board. Otherwise we are going to use 1/8″ marine grade plywood and paint
it.
Thanks!
Dawn
s/v Deep PlayaOn Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 8:38 PM, wrote:
Quote:Send maillist mailing list submissions toTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body ‘help’ toYou can reach the person managing the list at
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than “Re: Contents of maillist digest…”Today’s Topics:
1. Re: autohelm (Alan)
2. 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (Rodd Leeds)
3. Re: 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (John Stevenson)
4. Re: 424 ‘s in South FL early May? (Rodd Leeds)
5. Re: autohelm (Silverheels)
6. Re: autohelm (Pete Dubler)
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 13:28:43 -0800 (PST)Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan,
Nothing like that in my lazarette so probably not original equipment.
Obviously intended to hold something very securely. That something might be
heavy as well. How big? Pics?
Possibilities are mount for SSB tuner or isolation transformer. Probably
lots of other things as well.On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 4:53 PM, kalinowski wrote:
As I spend more time on my boat and get into the cracks and crevasses I’ve
found another mystery. The port lazarette has what looks like 4 bolts
mounted with the heads on the inside of a piece of wood that is glassed in
just below the rim. Something was obviously mounted there on the exposed
“studs”. I’m just curious what was mounted in there if it is original with
the boat.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Gee, Rod, I’m not sure I would want someone who summers in Palm Beach to
have a look at my boat[?]. Sarah is not exactly a Gold-Plater. Have you
checked on what the Kennedy’s are doing around then?
I’m not in S. FL (Jacksonville), but I will be here until the end of May
before heading back to the Chesapeake for the summer. I will probably be
doing some day sailing on the St. Johns River to check things out before I
depart. You are welcome come aboard for those sails.On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 5:16 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
I am planning a week in Palm Beach area at end of April and early May.
Wondering if there are any 424’s in the area at that time that may want to
take a Yankee out for a day sail from any of the South Florida inlets?Thanks!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker #214
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Patrick,
I think this is the picture you are looking for. Got it from Jack a few
years ago.On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Tor,I also have the Autohelm and CPT combination. I have never used the two in
tandem. How does that work? How do you keep them from fighting each other?Pete
On 1/24/2011 9:25 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Mark,My boat came with an Autohelm 3000 on the wheel. I wanted a wheel pilot –
they’re cheaper, easier to install and consume less power than internal
units – but didn’t trust the Autohelm for blue water cruising. I bought a
spare 3000 on eBay, but then decided to just replace the Autohelm with the
stronger, truly waterproof CPT brand unit (http://cptautopilot.com/).
It’s
pretty good, much better quality than Autohelm, but still a bit
underpowered
for a 42′ boat in a real blow. When conditions warrant, I use the CPT and
my
Auto-Helm windvane in combination, each augmenting the other, and can
self-steer through anything.I still carry my two Autohelm 3000’s as spares, and also rigged a tiller
pilot to the windvane as an instant backup. If I ever wind up
hand-steering
across an ocean it won’t be for lack of preparation.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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There should have been a smiley face after the last sentence in the first
paragraph, as below:“Beware of DIY recommendations from some of the munchin owners on this email
list if you are over 6′ [?].”On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 1:59 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Mark,
Replacing the wheel Autohelm with a 6000+ below decks autopilot was
probably the first major upgrade I did to Sarah in 2000. It’s still going
strong, but I did replace the course computer in 2006. I believe the
original computer failed due to my SSB installation. Wiring for the SSB ran
too close to the old computer. No problems with this setup since 2006.
I let the boatyard munchins do the installation of the drive unit in the
starboard locker. I can get into that locker, but then I can’t move.
Beware of DIY recommendations from some of the munchin owners on this email
list if you are over 6′ .Here is a link to some pics of the installation on Sarah.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Autopilot
The pictures are of the drive unit are not very good as they were shot
blind for the reason stated above.On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 1:49 PM, quent wrote:
Here’s how one owner did it on a P-424:
http://www.oceannavigator.com/content/installing-powerful-belowdecks-autopilot
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
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