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“I wonder if the noise will go away or lessen after the damper plate has a
few miles on it?”
That is certainly my hopeOn Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 6:28 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I hear ya…. after spending last winter in the Carib…… I am back in
Rochester where we’ve gotten over 44 inches of snow so far in just
December…..
Don Walter is pretty sure the VDrive OK also but is willing to put it on
the test bench just to make sure…. and to please me……
I wonder if the noise will go away or lessen after the damper plate has a
few miles on it?
Alan— On Wed, 12/15/10, John Stevenson wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
That would provide good info. Even though I accept that the V-drive is not
the source of the problem (had it with the RV-20 and RV-26) it would be
re-assuring to hear that Walters completely signs off on that. I’ll know
more when my VD is back in place. Having some difficulty getting the
attention of the VD shop right now, so that may not happen until after I get
back from Europe over the holidays.
Right, I’ve been freezing my ass off in Jacksonville, but now that the temps
are going back to normal I’m getting on a plane to Poland. That’s what
cruising does to you. You meet lots of neat folks. I’ll spend Christmas
with friends I met in Cascais, PT 5 years ago. He’s German, She’s Polish.
Right now they are off their boat in Sevilla and living in an apartment near
her parents in the NE corner of Poland next to the Belarus border. I’ve had
to buy a bunch of cold weather clothes, something I thought I would never
have to do again. It’s what you do for friends.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 6:09 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I may remove the VDrive and drive it Walters to have it bench tested (in my
presence) while the boat is on the hard.
Alan— On Wed, 12/15/10, John Stevenson wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
Those are the symptoms I had before the failure. If the other owners do not
have the same backlash with similar configurations (as Joe does not), then
we both may still have some problems that need to be resolved.
My backlash noise disappears above 1,000 RPM, which is where the W60 idled.
So my previous acceptance of the backlash was based on the reduced idle RPMs
of the Yanmar/VD configuration. Now I don’t know. I was hoping everyone
with idle RPMS around 750 had the same backlash noise. Joe’s response says,
“Not so”.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:51 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I put a new damper plate on…. Westerbeke Original part (with springs) AND
had the VDrive rebuilt…. so I am not entirely positive WHAT is generating
the noise except that is it coming from the VDrive.Type of Engine Westerbekre W58
– Type of Transmission and gear ratio Velvet Drive 2:1 I think
– V-Drive model RV20
– RPMs at idle 700
– Gear Backlash Level: LOUD— On Wed, 12/15/10, John Stevenson wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
For those interested here is a link to the web page on my issues:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewVelvetDriveFailure.htmlOn Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:41 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Joe.
That tells me if the new plate and rebuilt transmission still produces
significant backlash I may have another problem.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:39 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:John,I have the exact same engine and transmission…..no backlash at 750
rpm…so I
don’t know why you would be getting any.Joe
Half Moon #71________________________________
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Joe.
That tells me if the new plate and rebuilt transmission still produces
significant backlash I may have another problem.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:39 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:John,I have the exact same engine and transmission…..no backlash at 750
rpm…so I
don’t know why you would be getting any.Joe
Half Moon #71________________________________
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
Any metrics you can share?On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 5:36 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I would not characterize the noise I have have has “backlash”….. more
like a machine gun going off until I increase the RPM…… ???
alan— On Wed, 12/15/10, John Stevenson wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Just checked my Calder on those “Y” adapters that combine 2 30A/125VAC
sources into one 50A/250VAC circuit. Those adapters will not complete the
connection to the boat if the two sources are in phase. The adapter will
provide 50A/250VAC 2-phase power to the boat only if the 2 30A/125VAC
sources are out of phase, which I guess is what adjacent 30A sources
normally would be. If you need a single 50A/125VAC source then you will
need another adapter to pickup only one of the phases provided by the “Y”.
The cost of all of these adapters is probably over $500.
Calder also recommends the dual 30A inputs rather than a single 50A/125VAC
inlet for simplicity and lower cost.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 12:48 PM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Quote:Rich,
Which of course is why so many of us went south and need A/C. Of course
with Global Warming we also need space heaters. Go figure.
Freezin’ my butt off in FL.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 12:38 PM, <> wrote:
Quote:John
Thanks for the tip. Unless you have A/C or electric heat on your boat, I
can’t see the need for more than 30A. Here in the northeast, A/C is
uncommon. Winters are so harsh that very few folks stay here over the
winter.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
Which of course is why so many of us went south and need A/C. Of course
with Global Warming we also need space heaters. Go figure.
Freezin’ my butt off in FL.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 12:38 PM, <> wrote:
Quote:John
Thanks for the tip. Unless you have A/C or electric heat on your boat, I
can’t see the need for more than 30A. Here in the northeast, A/C is
uncommon. Winters are so harsh that very few folks stay here over the
winter.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete,
How does that “Y” adapter work that combines two 30A sources into one
50A/125VAC receptacle? We looked at one it last summer, but decided we had
spent enough of the owner’s money at that point. My guess is it blocks one
leg if it is out of phase with the other. I can’t believe it rectifies the
phases.
Rich,
If you ever head down the ICW I recommend getting a 50A shore to 30A boat
adapter (unless you have a 50A/125VAC receptacle – in which case you may
need Pete’s adapter). At ICW marinas (or just about any marina in FL) you
may not have 30A/125VAC power at the berth. In which case you’ll need the
adapter I described. It works with both 125VAC and 240VAC shore power
(takes one phase of the later). As a matter of fact if you go down the ICW
and spend a lot of time at marinas, it is best to have as many power
adapters as there types of dock receptacles, including 15A.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 10:32 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I have an adapter with two Male 30amp plugs that go to one Female 50amp
outlet. This goes on the dock side and the 50Amp long cord plus into this.The cheaper option to the two females to one male adapter is to have two
30amp outlets on the boat and have them wired internally. I do not know the
ABYC approach to this (and I could not find anything in a quick scan of
section E-11 of 08/09) but I would have two separate 30AMP breakers on the
panel so that you do not have two live inlets when you are only feeding one.
I do not know how the adapter works if the two 30AMP outlets on the dock
are actually on separate legs or if that matters .. perhaps Rich could add
some expertise on that.Pete
On 12/15/2010 7:54 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
+1 on what Pete posted.
If there is only 30A service on the dock, it’s a lot easier and cheaper to
use two 30A cord sets to two 30A receptacles than to use a “Y” adapter to
bring two 30A sources into the single 50A receptacle. That adapter
usually
costs> $400. My fun and games on the 54′ Bertram last summer opened my
eyes to the world of heavy power requirements and usage.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:By the way, before you decide to go to 50AMP inlet wiring, check out the
prices of the cords, adapters, and plugs. It is cheaper to run two 30AMP
inputs than one 50AMP, which is what lots of newer boats do.Pete
On 12/15/2010 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
As planed I left it as-is and just did a proper replacement. I have AC
power
again!Part list for the archive:
– 20′ of 10awg3 Ancor shore power cable
– 7′ 10awg Ancor white primary wire
– Blue Sea A Series Toggle Double Pole PN# 7238
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
– Ring Terminals for 10Awg WireOut of the 20′ I was able to make the main connection to the breaker and
from the 7′ the wire from breaker to the AC break out panel. The Green
wire
in the triple actually hooks into the ground as the wire comes through
the
hanging locker, so you will strip off a lot of the insulation.The wires connected to my shore power plug were only covered with
electrical
tape. There is a proper cover for the back I plan to buy. They probably
left
it off because the 6awg Type 2 wire they used was very stiff. Here’s a
shot
of that if you also see electrical tape and want a proper cover.
http://www.marinco.com/product/30-amp-rear-safety-enclosure-8-wayThanks again everyone for answering my questions!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:39 PM, <
> wrote:Basically correct. The thing is that more often than not these days
docks
don’t have the 50amp 120v single leg outlets sp u end up tapping two
30amp
outlets using a Y adapter. Also there may or may not be two outlets
available for one boat at the dockRegarding the “other way”, that would be a 50amp 220 plug which
provides
120V at 50amps on each of two legs. This is like an outlet for a
welder
or
more familiarly a dryer outlet though the latter is only 30 amps per
leg.Pete
On Dec 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:If your bored I’d love to see an explanation of the difference between
50amps as a single 120v leg and whatever the other way is.
I assumed to upgrade from 30Amps to 50Amps and thus run more on the
boat,
you would just upgrade the feed from the shore to the panel (shore
power
cord, shore power plug, wiring to the AC Breaker) to be sized for
50Ampsand
then you could run more off the panel than you could at 30Amps.
Is it more complicated than that?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:03 PM, <
> wrote:Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg
On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a
tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat waswired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been
replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics
andI
assume all original original.
My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in
the
AC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.
Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island
in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with
guststo
the
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following
seas
and
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice
short 2
hour jaunt.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson< >wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to
change
the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also
used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So
I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas
ofthe
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of
the
P424
run.
On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curiousif
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to
the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
Thanks,
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
+1 on what Pete posted.
If there is only 30A service on the dock, it’s a lot easier and cheaper to
use two 30A cord sets to two 30A receptacles than to use a “Y” adapter to
bring two 30A sources into the single 50A receptacle. That adapter usually
costs > $400. My fun and games on the 54′ Bertram last summer opened my
eyes to the world of heavy power requirements and usage.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
By the way, before you decide to go to 50AMP inlet wiring, check out the
prices of the cords, adapters, and plugs. It is cheaper to run two 30AMP
inputs than one 50AMP, which is what lots of newer boats do.Pete
On 12/15/2010 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
As planed I left it as-is and just did a proper replacement. I have AC
power
again!Part list for the archive:
– 20′ of 10awg3 Ancor shore power cable
– 7′ 10awg Ancor white primary wire
– Blue Sea A Series Toggle Double Pole PN# 7238
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
– Ring Terminals for 10Awg WireOut of the 20′ I was able to make the main connection to the breaker and
from the 7′ the wire from breaker to the AC break out panel. The Green
wire
in the triple actually hooks into the ground as the wire comes through the
hanging locker, so you will strip off a lot of the insulation.The wires connected to my shore power plug were only covered with
electrical
tape. There is a proper cover for the back I plan to buy. They probably
left
it off because the 6awg Type 2 wire they used was very stiff. Here’s a
shot
of that if you also see electrical tape and want a proper cover.
http://www.marinco.com/product/30-amp-rear-safety-enclosure-8-wayThanks again everyone for answering my questions!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:39 PM, <
> wrote:Basically correct. The thing is that more often than not these days
docks
don’t have the 50amp 120v single leg outlets sp u end up tapping two
30amp
outlets using a Y adapter. Also there may or may not be two outlets
available for one boat at the dockRegarding the “other way”, that would be a 50amp 220 plug which provides
120V at 50amps on each of two legs. This is like an outlet for a welder
or
more familiarly a dryer outlet though the latter is only 30 amps per leg.Pete
On Dec 14, 2010, at 4:17 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:If your bored I’d love to see an explanation of the difference between
50amps as a single 120v leg and whatever the other way is.
I assumed to upgrade from 30Amps to 50Amps and thus run more on the
boat,
you would just upgrade the feed from the shore to the panel (shore power
cord, shore power plug, wiring to the AC Breaker) to be sized for 50Ampsand
then you could run more off the panel than you could at 30Amps.
Is it more complicated than that?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 3:03 PM, <
> wrote:Yes. Originally wired for 50 amps as a single 120 volt leg
On Dec 14, 2010, at 2:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”<
> wrote:Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a
tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat waswired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been
replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and
I
assume all original original.
My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in
theAC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.
Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island
in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with guststo
the
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following
seasand
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice
short 2hour jaunt.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson<
>wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change
the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also
used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So
I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas ofthe
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of
the
P424
run.
On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curiousif
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to
the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19
<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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maillist mailing list
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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maillist mailing list
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
Haven’t removed the eyebrow (I do have a small leak around the aft portlight
in the head – maybe I need to), but if or when I think I would go with
black paint to match the cove stripe. I don’t think I would put the teak
back on or replace it in kind.On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 8:12 AM, quent <> wrote:
Season’s greetings, all!
Shortly before winter arrived we removed the teak eyebrows over the ports
on each side of the boat and filled the screw holes with Marinetex. This
eliminated several elusive leaks that I had been attributing to the Bomar
ports.
I was wondering what other owners have done to remedy the shaved eyebrow
look. Replacing the teak trim would look best, but I really don’t want to
drill more holes. Anybody have a solution?
Best regards,
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I had the same deck rot problem as Rich and fixed in the same manner. I
also added the weather striping described by Phillipe (got the idea from Hal
Sutphen). At the same time I removed the hatch and re-bedded all of the
runner supports. No leaks for nearly 8 years. Started to get some leaks in
2009 and did a quick fix (just re-bedded the teak piece at the aft end of
the hatch). Started to leak again this fall. So it looks like I have
another winter project to once again remove the hatch and re-bed everything,
then replace the 9 year old weather striping.
Most of leaks in this hatch come from its placement at the side of the coach
roof. The crown of the coach roof means water collects on the inboard side
of the hatch and then has plenty of time to find any gaps in the bedding or
(in a heavy downpour) pour over the inboard runner and collect in the trim
pieces and headliner. The weather striping prevents the later leak from
happening.On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 10:12 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:see
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Same here, 50A main breaker. I have a 30A breaker at my isolation
transformer up stream from the panel, so this breaker doesn’t protect much.
All of the sub-circuit breakers are 15A or less, except the frig and the
A/C, which are 30A and 20A respectively. Can’t explain the 30A for the
frig, which appears factory installed. I don’t believe the old Grunert
(died in 2001) drew more than 10A.I could use 50A service right now. It’s really cold in Jacksonville (once
again I didn’t go far enough south). Back to breaker roulette trying to
juggle a couple of space heaters, the frig and hot water heater.On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 6:05 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Pat,
When I replaced my charger/inverted I found the same thing. The wiring was
good for 1 leg of a 50 amp service. My main breaker is 30 amp, tho. I had
to
replace all the wiring from the plug on.If you check the plug you may find the wires don’t fit properly as I did.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 14, 2010 4:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
wrote:Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat waswired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and I
assume all original original.My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in the
AC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.
Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts tothe
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following seas
and
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice
short
2hour jaunt.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to changethe
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of the
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of the
P424
run.On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curious
if
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also used Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of the
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of the P424
run.On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m curious if
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Looks like Whoosh to me, and I know they plan to sell her in OZ. Jack
told me that Aussies pay incredible prices for yachts and homes and the $aus
and $us are at about parity. So this may not be such an unrealistic price –
that is until the Australian bubble bursts like it has everywhere else.On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 9:20 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Elaine,
How do you identify its Whoosh? She had her name on her and didn’t use her
main traveller.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 9, 2010 8:56 AM, “Elaine Patton” <> wrote:It’s Whoosh. I hope Jack and Pat are ok. I never thought that they
would
stop sailing. They are really nice people.Quote:Elaine and Ted
Bel Esprit II— On Thu, 12/9/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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