Forum Replies Created
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Posts
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PS,
I only used the expensive Perko latches because I had them in my parts bin.
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ offers equivalent latches in SS at about
1/2 the Perko price. Thanks to Bob Fine or turning me onto this source.On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 5:23 PM, John Stevenson <>wrote:
Patrick,
Not sure how much you want to change the standard arrangement. I’ve pretty
much left if alone except I have had problems with the the chain shifting
and knocking the locker door into the V-berth and dumping wet chain on the
berth. My simple solution was to add latches to the locker door. These
latches have kept the door in place for several rolling passages.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Anchor_Well_ModificationsThat’s my interim solution until I decide to implement Tor’s more radical
solution.On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 3:40 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I just posted this to my blog, and wanted to see if any of you had
thoughts
one way or the other.Chain Locker Bulkhead Design and Material
Issues<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspxhttp://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx
<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx[image: Preparing to make a huge
mess]<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5010236289/>[image: ChainLocker_Hatch_blog]<
http://www.deepplaya.com/image.axd?picture=ChainLocker_Hatch_blog.jpg>I’m hemming and hawing a bit on the chain locker bulkhead. I need to make
a
removable panel that keeps the chain and water out of the v-berth. There
probably won’t ever be any substantial amount of water in the chain
locker,
just the normal mess from brining up the chain.The bulkhead itself is 1/2” thick. The design seems pretty straight
forward.
I need to make a 1/2” thick piece that fits neatly into the hole and then
another 1/2” piece about 1” bigger than the hole. This 2nd piece will be
bolted to the bulkhead. Since it needs to be removable and you can’t get
to
the inside once the panel is in place I’ve decided it will be attached
with
tee-nuts<
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-3118/516-18-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nutsand
machine screws.
I’ve been going back and forth on a couple of things:
*Should the panel be bolted on the outside or the inside?
*
If the panel is on the outside the bolts alone will have to hold the
weight
of the chain if it rests against the panel. This could be alleviated by
putting in a removable set of panel on the inside to bear the weight. A
guy
at <> mentioned they have done this before and used starboard.
Basically it would look like hatch boards.If the panel is on the inside thee is NO way you’re going to remove the
panel without first removing the chain from the locker. This seems like a
deal breaker for inside, but I’m already resolved that I will likely add a
small water tight deck plate above the panel for quick access to deal with
chain castling or other quick inspection needs.*Should the panel be made out of starboard or marine grade plywood coated
in epoxy?**Both materials seem fine and I don’t think the plywood would be much
cheaper. Joining two 1/2” pieces of starboard seems impossible. I don’t’
think epoxy alone will hold, it would also need to be screwed
together. **Epoxying
two plywood 1/2” thick pieces would be easy and wood is easy to work with.
We (pronounced Dawn) also have pretty good epoxy skills. We could put a
layer of fiberglass on the inside surface to protect it even more from
chain
hitting it. We could put a Formica surface on the outside to match the
existing bulkhead.**Another option is to use 1” thick material and basically mill the hatch
out
of the solid material. This would probably be the way to go with
starboard.**I’ve looked at G10FRP4 panels and I don’t think they’d be easy to work
with especially since I have never seen the stuff in person. I’ve also
looked at aluminum and stainless steel sheet metal, but they are way more
expensive.**I feel like I’m leaning plywood and outside and then if needed I can add
an
inside 1/4″ starboard protector board later.**Thanks!*
*-p*
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
Not sure how much you want to change the standard arrangement. I’ve pretty
much left if alone except I have had problems with the the chain shifting
and knocking the locker door into the V-berth and dumping wet chain on the
berth. My simple solution was to add latches to the locker door. These
latches have kept the door in place for several rolling passages.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Anchor_Well_ModificationsThat’s my interim solution until I decide to implement Tor’s more radical
solution.On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 3:40 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I just posted this to my blog, and wanted to see if any of you had thoughts
one way or the other.Chain Locker Bulkhead Design and Material
Issues<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspxhttp://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx
<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx[image: Preparing to make a huge
mess]<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5010236289/>[image: ChainLocker_Hatch_blog]<
http://www.deepplaya.com/image.axd?picture=ChainLocker_Hatch_blog.jpg>I’m hemming and hawing a bit on the chain locker bulkhead. I need to make a
removable panel that keeps the chain and water out of the v-berth. There
probably won’t ever be any substantial amount of water in the chain locker,
just the normal mess from brining up the chain.The bulkhead itself is 1/2” thick. The design seems pretty straight
forward.
I need to make a 1/2” thick piece that fits neatly into the hole and then
another 1/2” piece about 1” bigger than the hole. This 2nd piece will be
bolted to the bulkhead. Since it needs to be removable and you can’t get to
the inside once the panel is in place I’ve decided it will be attached with
tee-nuts<
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-3118/516-18-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nutsand
machine screws.
I’ve been going back and forth on a couple of things:
*Should the panel be bolted on the outside or the inside?
*
If the panel is on the outside the bolts alone will have to hold the weight
of the chain if it rests against the panel. This could be alleviated by
putting in a removable set of panel on the inside to bear the weight. A guy
at <> mentioned they have done this before and used starboard.
Basically it would look like hatch boards.If the panel is on the inside thee is NO way you’re going to remove the
panel without first removing the chain from the locker. This seems like a
deal breaker for inside, but I’m already resolved that I will likely add a
small water tight deck plate above the panel for quick access to deal with
chain castling or other quick inspection needs.*Should the panel be made out of starboard or marine grade plywood coated
in epoxy?**Both materials seem fine and I don’t think the plywood would be much
cheaper. Joining two 1/2” pieces of starboard seems impossible. I don’t’
think epoxy alone will hold, it would also need to be screwed
together. **Epoxying
two plywood 1/2” thick pieces would be easy and wood is easy to work with.
We (pronounced Dawn) also have pretty good epoxy skills. We could put a
layer of fiberglass on the inside surface to protect it even more from
chain
hitting it. We could put a Formica surface on the outside to match the
existing bulkhead.**Another option is to use 1” thick material and basically mill the hatch
out
of the solid material. This would probably be the way to go with
starboard.**I’ve looked at G10FRP4 panels and I don’t think they’d be easy to work
with especially since I have never seen the stuff in person. I’ve also
looked at aluminum and stainless steel sheet metal, but they are way more
expensive.**I feel like I’m leaning plywood and outside and then if needed I can add
an
inside 1/4″ starboard protector board later.**Thanks!*
*-p*
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“Cutlass vrs. Cutless”
Let’s not start that discussion again (almost as bad as the anchor threads)
[?]. Let’s just accept that the name can be whatever the seller thinks it
is.On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 5:02 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
That’s it. They all have boy-pornstar names. Weird.
Adam Silverstein
-iPhoneOn Dec 8, 2010, at 2:39 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:Johnson Duramax Brad
Brad is the part number (why I don’t know)http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productdetail.aspx?iid=JON%20BRAD&cid=18979
Quote:Length 6″
Metal Wall (D) 1âLee,
Raymarine provides many of manuals for the old Autohelm/Ratheon products for
download from their website.For example:
http://www.raymarine.com/SubmittedFiles/Handbooks/Legacy_Handbooks/Autopilot/ST7000_operation_handbook.pdfOn Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:Morning Glory had an Autohelm autopilot installed when I bought he but it
did
not have any instructions. Where can I get a copy of the manual for an
Autohelm
7000?lee
________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Alan & Tor,
I’m hoping MB provided me with a defective or improper (if there is such a
thing) damper plate for the VD. If so, maybe they’ll stand up to a portion
of the cost I’ve incurred (yeah, right). My real goal is to get some clue
what caused the failure. I don’t want to have to do this every 3 years. I
was really lucky (always better than being good). When I approached the
dock another cruiser had just left and a lot of their friends were on the
dock and they were competent to take my lines and stop the boat without a
lot of crashing about. I was also lucky the forward gear held up until
then.On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 4:15 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:I destroyed my tranny with a maxi prop and shifting back and forth in
higher
rpms.Yeah- all it takes is getting into trouble around the docks abd
getting
confused between the throttle and the shifter.Icalled back to the dock
master
and said,I have a problem-what slip you in? 10,12 and 14 ! help-yeah
transmission- eventually my maxi fell off- bye bye________________________________
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Very sad.
Don’t know which of the passages into the Abacos they attempted. With big
seas running from the storm in the Atlantic it could have been near rage
conditions on those inlets, especially on the Whale. The prudent decision
would have been to heave-to and wait for daylight to enter. I’m guessing
the skipper was very tired and feeling under pressure to get his crew out of
the ocean. Never a good combination.On Sun, Nov 21, 2010 at 5:38 PM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Quote:Unfortunately yes….they diverted to the Bahamas due to the bad weather.
They attempted a night-time entry at Marsh Harbor. Apparently one the crew
was very sea sick. We also had a couple other diversions as well as
numerous autopilot failures (about the half the fleet). As I mentioned, we
had some pretty big seas, fortunately, we were running downwind towards our
destination.John
Indulgence
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
+1 on Tor’s advice – especially since Pearson installed more than one type
of engine and transmission on these boats. For a 1979 boat you could have a
W58 or W60 and a Paragon or Velvet Drive transmission. Also remember, no
matter how many metrics you capture and no matter how detailed the analysis
from the prop shop, propeller sizing is a Black Art requiring incantations
and potions to be accurate. Sacrificing a chicken never hurts. 🙂On Thu, Nov 18, 2010 at 10:07 AM, SilverHeels <> wrote:
Quote:Emerald Tide,There’s no absolute guarantee that Pearson used the best propeller for that
engine in that boat. Consider calling a professional prop shop with your
question. They’ll ask you for various measurement numbers and come up with
their recommendation for your boat. Once the prop is on and the boat
launched, you can run some RPM tests – again, a good prop shop can tell you
exactly how to do that – and confirm whether the pitch of the new prop is
as
good as it can be, but chances are they’ll get it close enough the first
time around.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Re: Replacing the Wire/Rope sheaves
This is probably not necessary, although I did replace my sheaves. As long
as you don’t go smaller than 7/16″ on the halyards and stay with external
halyards, they should ride on the rope portion of the sheave without
excessive wear. I was concerned about chafe on the rope by the gap at the
rope portion of the sheave. Jack & Patricia Tyler on Whoosh cruised the
Caribbean for 2 years, made 2 crossings of the Atlantic and are now in Oz
with all rope halyards on the existing wire/rope sheaves and report no chafe
problems on their halyards. They did not go with internal halyards, so the
rope is supported on two sheaves. I still would go with rope sheaves for
internal halyards.On Wed, Nov 17, 2010 at 2:31 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Wire sheave at the mast head may need to be swapped for a proper rope
sheave. The sheave grove shape can cause the rope to jam in the more
v-shaped sheave causing excessive wear._______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Looks like a good deal, but I’ve found the headlamps with everything on the
front to be a little uncomfortable, even with the over the head strap. I
usually can only wear them for an hour or so. I’ve switched to this one:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_297874-13229-TT7497CP-P2_0__?productId=3031322&Ntt=headlamp&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3DheadlampIt’s pricey at $50, but I forget I have it on and it’s bright enough to use
as a spot light. Last summer I used mine to locate the day marks on a run
up the channel to Beaufort on a moonless night. There are no lit marks on
that channel.On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Here’s a great deal running today. I constantly use a head lamp on the
boat, but they have mostly been too dim. This one is much brighter at a
great price (down from $50).Pete
Smith and Wesson 3-Watt Cree LED Head Lamp $19.99 Free Shipping, Nov. 16 6
AMBuy.com <
http://www.techbargains.com/jump.cfm?clkSubId=C231459C0A00231459A0&afsrc=1&id=4960&arg=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buy.com%2Fretail%2Fproduct.asp%3Fsku%3D218241220>
has the Smith and Wesson 3-Watt Cree LED Head Lamp for a low *$19.99 Free
Shipping.* Tax in CA, MA, NY, TN, WA.Runs up to 4 hours on 3 AA Batteries (Included)
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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Dan,
Since you are at a point where you can replace the existing rig or re-work
it, here are my suggested solutions.1. Grind off the broken tang and weld a replacement
2. Grind off the broken tang and replace with a mechanically attached
tang (one of my previous suggestions). This is probably stronger than the
welded tang (IMO)
3. Replace the sheeting of mizzen to either of the solutions above with a
3:1 tackle. This frees up the mizzen sheet winch for a more useful use
(even a 98 Lb weakling can handle the mizzen sheet without a winch.
4. Do 3, above, but attach the tackle to a padeye on the coaming. This
provides better leverage on the cam cleat on the tackle.I still have the welded tang, but I went with a 3:1 Tackle on mizzen and no
longer use the winch for the sheet.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_MastOn Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 6:01 PM, S V Navasana <> wrote:
This may sound crazy. I have been lookin at reworking the mizzen sheet
assembly with a traveler / sheet system. I have noticed alot of lift and
twist in the mizzen boom. I have been looking at a basic unit from Garhauer.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34
I think the mt-3 would work…Eric Lorentzon
Navasana
Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 14, 2010, at 4:19 PM, “SilverHeels” <> wrote:
True, you could bold on new tang to the stub of the old one, but I
believe
Quote:welding would be stronger. Quicker, too, compared to boring through
3/16″-inch stainless steel with a hand-held drill, twice.
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan,
Hasn’t happened to me – yet, but I can think of several options short of
having a tang re-welded to the rail.1. You can replace the tang with one that mechanically fastens to the rail.
I use a couple for the lead blocks on my Monitor control lines. I thought I
purchased them from MarinePartsDepot, but I can’t find it in their online
catalogue. I’ll send a pic if you are interested.
2. Put a padeye on the rear coaming.On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 11:48 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
After some aggressive sailing off of Diamond Head, the tang that holds the
mizzen sheet block on the taff rail managed to part. I guess its just old
and stressed metal.Has anyone else had this problem and how did you meet the challenge?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu/Atlanta_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
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Skip,
I left that job to the boatyard. The method was similar to what you are
considering, but I decided to let the guys who have done this many times
have the job.Basically you drill holes in the mast wall for the pop-rivets then drill a
second set holes slightly off-set from the pop-rivet holes. Slide the
conduit with wires into the mast, then run a wire hook (e.g. coat hanger)
into the mast through the first of the secondary holes, grab the conduit and
pull it tight against the mast wall. Drill a hole in the conduit through
the pop-rivet hole, then secure the conduit with a pop-rivet. Move on to the
next and repeat the process until the conduit is secured from bottom to
top. Then fill the secondary holes with more pop-rivets or self-taping
screws.
Some people recommend pre-drilling the pop-rivet holes in the conduit (to
avoid drilling into the wires), but that requires precise measurement. Not
sure which approach the boatyard used on my mast.On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:00 PM, skipmac wrote:
@john stevenson wrote:
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.Hi John,
Am doing the conversion to 4 internal halyards and also wanted to pull
conduit for the wires. Your website mentioned you pop riveted the conduit
to the mast which was also my plan but so far have not come up with a simple
sounding method to do so.Running the wires into the conduit and pushing that up the mast (yes it’s
out of the boat) no problem but how to drill holes through the mast and into
the conduit with having a trained muskrat to run up the inside of the mast
to hold the conduit in place while drilling?The best idea I have so far is to drill a couple of initial holes to run a
line inside the mast, around the conduit, back out the hole and tie off to
capture the conduit and hold it in place. Then drill the rest of the holes
and rivet in place. So, how did you do it?Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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http://www.svsarah.com
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+1 on using StaSet-x or similar from other manufacturers. It has a straight
mono-filament core rather than a braided core (regular StaSet double
braid). I’ve found StaSet-X much easier for eye-splicing than StaSet or
other double braids, although it is certainly much more difficult than for
3-strand or single braid. I have all rope halyards, all StaSet-X. I
replaced the masthead wire/rope sheaves with rope sheaves, but that is
probably not necessary. IMO, the amount of stretch in StaSet-X over wire is
not significant for a cruising boat like the 424.
I also converted to internal halyards, which gives me two fore-sail halyards
instead of one (also 2 main halyards). That’s something you might consider
for hauling people up the mast. You won’t have to drop the genoa to have a
halyard to pull people up the front of the mast. Of course you could just
use the main halyard, but that can be a little awkward for working on the
front of the mast.
You can convert to internal halyards without pulling the mast, but it is
advisable to put all the electrical wires in a conduit. something Pearson
did not do on at least the early models. That will require pulling the
stick. I always convert simple projects into complex ones.On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 10:36 AM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Rodd,I use Sta-Set X line for the halyards. They claim it doesn’t stretch under
load. It’s a little awkward to coil for the first year or so – a bit stiff
–
but it doesn’t need adjustment once it’s set.FYI, I replaced my roller furling genoa halyard with an all-wire set-up to
get rid of that big, permanent coil of line at the mast’s port base. Since
I
only drop the furling genoa once every couple of years or so the
inconvenience factor is minimal.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silv erheels.us
Original Message
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No longer have the W60, but I believe Westerbecke spec’d 30#, single grade.
When I was in Europe I could not get single grade motor oil (in anything
less than a 55 gal drum) so I switched to 15W40 with no ill effects. I
repowered shortly after returning to the states, so I wasn’t on multi-grade
for more than a few years. The engine was running fine when I repowered.On Sat, Nov 6, 2010 at 10:50 PM, Herbc wrote:
Just curious, for the W60, what grade oil is being used. Know that should
change for the climate.sort of a survey.
Getting ready for first change and 15w 40 is on board for the job.
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Hatches over the aft berth were not standard from Pearson. This was likely
added by a previous owner and could be of any manufacturer. However, if it
has a riser arm it is likely from Bomar and Pompanette is the source.On Sat, Nov 6, 2010 at 1:51 PM, allantereshko <
> wrote:Hull #206 I need a riser arm for the small(approx 9″)hatch over the aft
berth. The arm is 6.75 “. Is this the Bomar cast 100 series. and is
Pompanette this right place to look. If so the parts for this small hatch
is now showing._______________________________________________
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