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Thanks, Rich, Patrick & Hank. I'll file this information away for another month or so. I had the chief mechanic in the yard look at the gap, and he said I can probably live with it for awhile (0.003″ gap). Looks like I might also need a V-Drive re-build (don't ask why I didn't have the V-Drive replaced when I repowered 2 years ago). I don't think I'll throw any more money into this V-drive and will likely replace it with the V-26.
So bottom line, the shaft has been aligned as best the yard can do and I'm taking the boat back to New Bern for a couple of months to finish some planned boat projects and few new ones (e.g., crack in one of the compression fittings on the cold freshwater manifold dumping almost a gallon of water into the bilge each day). You know something is not right when the bilge pump comes on 2 days after the boat has been hauled.Then I'll address the V-drive, shaft issues in May before heading north.
On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 2:40 PM, hs < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
My shaft is 65 1/2″ long.
Hank S.
Shay #90— On Wed, 3/10/10, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
resend
Eric,
As far as modifications to the boat, I think all of the items in Rich's list is are worth considering. I haven't done all of these, but that doesn't mean I don't believe they are worthwhile or even essential. I plan to implement several these items before my next passage.In addition to Rich's items, here are some modifications I've made that I believe are worthwhile:
- Replaced fix prop with folding prop for better light air sailing. When coastal cruising you can usually motor to your destination or an intermediate port. On an off-shore passage that usually isn't an option, and keeping the boat sailing well in light airs is really important.
- Added Asym spinnaker or cruising chute for same reason as above.
- Added an Inner-Forestay (Solent or otherwise) to a ketch or sloop with a staysail and a storm jib.
- Added Windvane self-steering.
- Added Mast steps. When dockside you can normally get volunteers to crank you aloft in a bosun chair. Offshore, your crew (or no one if single-handing) may not be able get you aloft to fix a problem. It's nice to be able to climb, even when a small crew-member is cranking. I've only added steps to the main mast. If I add a wind generator to the mizzen mast I'll need steps on that mast as well.
- Internal halyards. This gives me two halyards for both the Jib/Genoa and the mainsail. If I lose one halyard I don't need to test those mast steps to retrieve it, just use the second halyard.
Here some additional modifications I haven't implemented, but either plan to or want to:
- Mizzen staysail – can't have too much light air capability
- Main boom preventer – not just a boom vang secured to the rail.
- Storm Trysail – A double or triple reefed main may not be sufficient. Requires modification to mainsail track or a separate track.
- Drogue or Sea Anchor – Both require a lot of supporting HW and practice in deploying and retrieving
Should I forward this list to your bank so they can plan for all the credit card interest they are going make off your account, and maybe increase your credit limit?
On Fri, Feb 12, 2010 at 5:17 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Eric,
As far as modifications to the boat, I think all of the items in Rich's list is are worth considering. I haven't done all of these, but that doesn't mean I don't believe they are worthwhile or even essential. I plan to implement several these items before my next passage.In addition to Rich's items, here are some modifications I've made that I believe are worthwhile:
- Replaced fix prop with folding prop for better light air sailing. When coastal cruising you can usually motor to your destination or an intermediate port. On an off-shore passage that usually isn't an option, and keeping the boat sailing well in light airs is really important.
- Added Asym spinnaker or cruising chute for same reason as above.
- Added an Inner-Forestay (Solent or otherwise) to a ketch or sloop with a staysail and a storm jib.
- Added Windvane self-steering.
- Added Mast steps. When dockside you can normally get volunteers to crank you aloft in a bosun chair. Offshore, your crew (or no one if single-handing) may not be able get you aloft to fix a problem. It's nice to be able to climb, even when a small crew-member is cranking. I've only added steps to the main mast. If I add a wind generator to the mizzen mast I'll need steps on that mast as well.
- Internal halyards. This gives me two halyards for both the Jib/Genoa and the mainsail. If I lose one halyard I don't need to test those mast steps to retrieve it, just use the second halyard.
Here some additional modifications I haven't implemented, but either plan to or want to:
- Mizzen staysail – can't have too much light air capability
- Main boom preventer – not just a boom vang secured to the rail.
- Storm Trysail – A double or triple reefed main may not be sufficient. Requires modification to mainsail track or a separate track.
- Drogue or Sea Anchor – Both require a lot of supporting HW and practice in deploying and retrieving
Should I forward this list to your bank so they can plan for all the credit card interest they are going make off your account, and maybe increase your credit limit?
On Fri, Feb 12, 2010 at 3:31 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Eric,Boy, you sure know how to stir up trouble.
The book, “Ready for Sea!” (Sheridan House) has a bunch of very detailed
outfitting lists. Use those and you won't forget anything that matters. One
of them, The Bare Essentials list, probably answers your question most
accurately, although it really is basic and you're probably already assuming
things like sails and a compass. In fact, my guess is you're asking about
the most useful “extras,” like GPS, roller-furling genoa, autopilot &
windvane, and so on.One oddball thing I value highly offshore is something I call a reversible
weather cloth. I had one on my last cruising boat and had one made for
Silver Heels. It's simply a shield against wind, spray and rain, an
irregular trapezoid, made of Sunbrella in my case, that attaches between the
windward edge of the bimini top, port or starboard, the outboard side of
the cockpit combing, and the windward after edge of the dodger and extends
aft at least 3/4 the length of the cockpit. There's a plastic window in it
for looking to windward. For boats that do not have a full enclosure a
weather cloth is worth its weight in gold offshore, keeping the cockpit and
its occupants dry on any tack closer than a broad reach. (This assumes your
bimini is already connected to the after edge of the dodger.)Another little doodad that everyone loves is a small red/white LED headlamp
on an elastic band. They're less than $10 at Walmart (usually in the camping
equipment section) and wonderful on night watches, allowing crew to read in
the cockpit in between their 360-degree look-arounds. The red lamp prevents
temporary night-blindness that a white reading light produces. I'd recommend
one for each crew member. Of course, they're terrific, too, for nighttime
deck work, leaving both hands free.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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Mine is in roughly the same location as Bob’s, except inside the cabinet
over the foot of the bunk. I have to remove the drawers to make it
visible. Don’t know why it is there. I guess the PO who documented the
boat didn’t want to waste useful bulkhead space on it.On Thu, Feb 11, 2010 at 10:09 AM, Eric Lorentzon wrote:
Quote:Navasana’s documentation numbers are carved in a teak board that was
sitting loose above the bunk in the Vberth. We found it during our survey.
the official survey noted the documentation panel was not properly affixed.
I glued and screwed it to the starboard interior cabin just forward of the
midship companion way.
Last summer we were boarded by USCG in the Gulf of Maine. The office in
charge of our inspection noted the location on his report and told me though
the panel was not in the right place it was acceptable. I will post a photo
later.Eric
— On Wed, 2/10/10, sum ocean wrote:
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Tor,
Hans gave me the same warning on the Monitor when I purchased it, but I
think they now have a description on how to attach a tiller pilot to the
Monitor on their website. I’ve motored for several days with the oar in the
water with no apparent damage. At first I always pulled the oar out of the
water when motoring, but it can be such pain to get the oar shaft to lock in
place when I want to resume sailing that I now leave the oar down except
when coming into a marina. I planned to modify a mop handle to provide a
means to force and hold the shaft join in place while the boat is moving,
but I only think of that project when trying to engage the Monitor.
BTW, the windvane in the Whoosh picture is a Sail-O-Mat, I don’t know which
model. I noticed today that Whoosh is on the Bahamas Bank heading for
Highborne Cay, so it looks like they’ll be out of WIFI range for awhile. I
forwarded your email to their Winlink address.On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 3:51 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Bob,I’m just finishing up an article on Backing Up the Self-Steering, which
includes a lengthy discussion of tillerpilot/windvane combinations. I’ve
set
that up on Silver Heels and it works perfectly, but I have an Auto-Helm
windvane (no relation to Autohelm autopilots) so my setup will differ from
most other windvanes. Lots of cruisers have successfully rigged tiller
pilots to other windvanes so I have no doubt you can, too. Note, however,
that Scanmar Marine warns against extended motoring with a tiller pilot
steering their Monitor servo-pendulum windvane, citing excessive wear on
the
mechanisms due to the extreme turbulence of the prop wash. (This may be
less
of a problem on 424’s, though, since our props are so far forward in
relation to the transom.)Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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Eric,
I had all of my main mast standing rigging (wire and turnbuckles) replaced
by Zahniser’s Boatyard in Solomons, MD in 2007. I had other stuff on the
yard bill so I don’t remember the cost of the rigging work but I know it
was over $6K. Used Sta-Loks on the lower terminals and turnbuckles. Swaged
fittings on the upper ends.
If you have off-shore plans I think it is more than prudent to replace the
original rigging. I thought about replacing mine while in Europe, but
talked myself into just having a rigger survey the boat. He, of course,
recommended replacement, but said he could not find any problems or defects
in the rigging. So I sailed back to the Chesapeake Bay with the same
rigging. A few weeks later I was walking around the deck, checking things
and found several broken wires on one of the lower forward shrouds. Glad I
didn’t see that while we were at sea, it would have taken a lot of the
pleasure out of a fun passage.On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 1:04 PM, <> wrote:
Quote:Eric
I had mine replaced a few years ago by Northeast Rigging. They are near
Boston, but for a large job I’m sure they would drive to ME. They do nice
work and they are cost competitive. Price depends on what you have done. I
replaced my roller furling and the standing wire. I went to Norseman
fittings and went up a size on most stays.Regards
Rich – BlackSheep
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
If you’re heading further up the bay, there are several DIY boatyards in
Solomons.
The largest is Washburn’s Boatyard, part of the Calvert Marina
Harbor Island Marine also allows DIY
The Solomons Island Yachting Center used to allow DIY, but they have changed
ownership.
Spring Cove also usually allows DIY
Zahniser’s usually doesn’t allow DIY, but then given the economy lots of
marinas are probably very happy to just get the haul-out and lay-day
charges.I plan to depart New Bern in May and head for the Chesapeake. Hope we can
get together during the summer.On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 9:43 AM, Rick Dugger <> wrote:
I and another 424 owner have used the Severn River Marina for winter haul
out for the past 5 years or so.
Agree with Bob.Rick
EclipseOn Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 8:31 AM, ROBERT HAWKINS <> wrote:
Check out Severn River Marina off the Mobjack Bay. I have had my boat
there for almost two years. Several live aboards, great yard, goodpeople.
Quote:Bob Hawkins
KUKULCANQuote:Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 02:38:50 -0800
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
According to their latest postion report Whoosh is anchored just south of
Virginia Key.
http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=N3FYPI’m still in New Bern, freezing my ass off.
On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 7:47 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hey, John,
Where are they? And you? I’m currently in Miami anchored off the Miami
Yacht Club!I would be nice to see you all!
Tor, I have a tiller pilot that will connect to my windvane but never set
it
up. I know how it works in theory, though, from the previous owner.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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Tor,
Jack & Patricia Tyler own Whoosh. They are currently anchored off Miami
waiting for a weather window to depart for Panama. I doubt they have WIFI
at the moment.On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
I once saved the attached photo of a tiller pilot & windvane setup on board
Whoosh. Who owns this boat,
please?Does anyone else have a tiller pilot & windvane setup on their boat?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Patrick,
That is correct, the sheaves were made for 1/2″ line. They were fabricated
to match the outside dimensions of the original sheaves, I just had the
original wire/rope groove replaced with one a little more rope friendly.
That said, I know lots of sailors who converted to rope halyards without
replacing the wire/rope sheaves and have not seen any rope wear as a
result. However, I was glad I did it when I went to internal halyards, as
now the rope rides on a single sheave rather than two. I think the chance
of rope wear increased with a single sheave, although I’m just guessing at
that.On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 12:03 AM, Patrick Walters <>wrote:
I’m re-reading a few things:
Thread about Sheaves:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=95&highlight=sheave
s/v<https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=95&highlight=sheaves/v>Sarah’s story:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Rigging.htm#Replace Halyard
Sheaves
Drawing of the original sheaves
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Halyard%20Sheaves.JPGSo, John am I reading all of that correctly that for the main sheaves you
had identically sized sheaves built but with slots for 1/2″ line?Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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My cap rail has lots of cracks and visible screw heads. I don't plan on doing anything real soon, but I definitely would not replace it with teak. I don't like the look of the plan white fiberglas so I might just paint it.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 9:53 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Interesting indeed. I would have not recognized it as a 424. What does the gang thing about the idea of removing the toerail wood?Pete
On 1/21/2010 6:58 AM, () wrote:
Quote:Interesting what the owner did to the boat. Removed the toe-rails, relocated stanchions to rail-cap, added a scoop transom.Rich
Original Message
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Mare Geaux was for sale in late-1999 when I first started looking at P424s. They were asking about $20K less than any other 424 that was for sale at that time I think I heard from someone that the boat sunk on its mooring during a hurricane in the 90s. I can't confirm that tho.
On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 7:31 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There's a 422 for sale here in Ft. Pierce for like $60,000. I can get particulars if anyone wants…
Bob—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick, and Pat,
I can certainly live without attachments on the mail-list, but I like you have other ways of passing large files as just links in the message. I think we should have a simple procedure for everyone to be able to accomplish this. I can use my website to share pictures and Jing to share screen captures. That won't work for anyone else. Also those who are using email clients to download emails will discover they don't have the picture or file referenced in the email, just a HyperLink, which doesn't do much good if they've disconnected from the Internet – Tor, I just thought of another reason for not using Outlook :).
So my vote would be to eliminate attachments if that make life easier for everyone else. I can go either way.On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was talking to our SysOP Pat about this and we both thought we should see what you all thought.
Before the migration to the new web host the attachment limit was larger.
Now it's small enough that even pics taken on a phone can't pass through the limit. Pat manually approves them.
Pat also mentioned that some times people have asked to unsubscribe because of the larger file sizes.So the question is. Should we keep a very small message size andor block attachments for our low-bandwidth cruising members or should we optimize more towards the high-bandwidth members?
I personally could go either way, but I'd rather more people on the list than fewer, so I could see limitting message sizes and blocking attacments.
There are so many free file sharing and picture sharing services on the web I'd be happy to do a how-to on a few of them. Also there is a picture gallery built into http://www.Pearson424.org as well.
I
What do you think?
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Rod,
IMHO, the PLB are primarily useful for body recovery and family closure. Anyone going into the water off-shore depending on a PLB might have to survive for more than 12 hours before recovery. Even in tropical waters this is a long time. The battery life of the PLB would not make them useful in a liferaft unless the vessel was close off-shore, not on the high seas where the signal might have to last for more than 24 hours.
Fortunately, I've never had to use any of these devices, but I view the PLB a solution without a problem on off-shore vessels.On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 7:22 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:The new PLB's, while not quite an EPIRB, have built in gps and can be worn on a belt and now cost about $300 or less!! Perhpaps some good SOLAS flares and a new PLB would be a good match? At this price an offshore boat could carry an epirb and a PLB to be worn in case of man overboard!!Rodd
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No matter, I still recommend putting Outlook some place where the Sun don't shine.
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 3:30 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
Quote:Let me turn off attachment scrubbing first !!!…– p
On 1/5/10 2:16 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Hey Tor, I worked on the Email server at Microsoft for years and might be
able to help figure this out. Do this:1) Create a new message in outlook
2) Drag and Drop one of your messages with the .txt attachment into the new
message. Now you have the sample message as an attachment in your new
message.
3) Send that message to my other email account () (I have my
own exchange server and use Outlook with that)I'll take a look at the message and attachment and see if I can figure it
out.-p
—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Paul,
Also my thanks for a good tip. I'm not sure where the closest liferaft service location is to me, probably in Charleston or Norfolk, maybe Morehead City. That is another service item I need to take of before next fall.
Years ago one of my friends got a flare party organized and sanctioned by the USCG. I don't remember how he did it, possibly through the USCG Aux. We all carried our expired flares down to the beach and fired them off. Clearly to get something like this done you would need a group with expired flares not an individual and some organization to approach the USCG. A local West Marine might be able to pull it off expecting to get a lot of the business replacing those flares.
I've often used the 4th to fire off flares, but not the expensive SOLAS rockets and parachute flares. Pretty much everyone ignores the little 12 guage or 25 mm flares, but I think a parachute flare might attract a little too much attention. Of course it fails to launch all is forgiven.I certainly agree with Bob that it is not an either/or decision on an EPIRB or flares. If you decide to fit an EPIRB (and many don't) then you should have the flares as well. The EPRIB will get help in your area, but they may never find you if you don't have a signaling device.
There was a very interesting thread on the SSCA DB a few months ago on whether cruisers should expect to be rescued and carry devices such as an EPIRB that may cause others (USCG, Air Nat'l Guard) to put their lives at risk as a result of our elective pursuit of adventure.
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 4:36 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I had a rather lengthy discussion with an officer in the Coast Guard when I was in Charleston. I wanted to get rid of my flares by setting them off at sea. His reply was that was fine, but if someone saw them and reported them I'd be responsible for the cost of the rescue services initiated – I could not broadcast on channel 16 that I was setting off expired flares. I mean, I could, but the USCG doesn't care – flares reported, they're on their way. So I didn't.
The other thing is that flares are not long range signaling device. The EPIRB and flares work in conjunction – you don't want to have one and not the other. Firing off flares at random will seldom bring help.
Here's another little tidbit – make sure your registration for your EPIRB is correct. Make sure the contact numbers are correct and your contacts know where you are so they can verify your whereabouts. Without voice confirmation, you'll be announced on the radio as 'vessel at position blahdeblah, blahdeblah has set off it's EPIRB. Any vessel in the area please assist.' Just having it does not guarantee a response. You can bet I was disappointed to hear that.
All Coast Guard Auxiliary units will accept flares. They use them for training and for firefighting training. Sometimes they'll even have a training exercise to show you how to use them.
All the best,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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