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Pete,
I don’t know CCA for non-CCA, but clearly the sub-floor plywood I removed
during my cabin sole hatch project this spring was not marine grade. That
is, if my knowledge of marine grade is correct – zero voids.
In any case I had to replace one section of the hatch subfloor and I used
MDO plywood. I’ll let you know in 10 year or less if that was a good idea.On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 10:02 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
I am in Fort Collins, Colorado. My boat is here for a several year
restoration. (It is a Blue Water Sailing project boat and you can follow
the project in their magazine starting this summer with an article on
trucking the boat out here).Pete
On 4/29/2010 7:04 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Use Marine grade plywood….
Pete, where do you live? I might be able to help you find it.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 5:18 PM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:I need to buy some plywood to replace the big hole in the sole I made
glassing in the new fuel tank. The question is: what is this stuff?Is it CCA marine grade doug fir plywood or just CCA (non-marine) plywood,
or something else.What are people using these days? I can find CCA plywood (non-marine)
for
about $32/sheet and I can find marine grade, not CCA plywood for about
$97 a
sheet. In any case, I need about a 48 x 48 piece of the right stuff.
(the
CCA 3/4 marine ply sells at the coast for about $65/sheet, but I can’t
find
it here). I wonder if you can just put a shipping label on a 4′ square
piece and send it via UPS….Knowledge and ideas?
Thanks,
Pete
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John Stevenson
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Tor,
The only 424 owner I know who has tied his ground plane into the lead in the
keel is Jack Tyler on Whoosh. I don’t know where he attached it, you can
email him at . He is very satisfied with his rig, but I
don’t know how much of that he attributes to the keel.
They should be about 1,000nm out of the Marquesa today. They pick up emails
about once a day.On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 5:39 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:“This will be fed with COAX”
I think most experts will agree that the tuner to ant. connection should be
fed with GTO-15 High Tension wire. That wire can be bought at any neon sign
shop or any HAM radio outlet.
It should be kept as short as possible as it is included in the antenna
length calculations.alan
— On Wed, 4/28/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <>
wrote:<.. snip>
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I guess I’m still a skeptic on the fresh water pump being the culprit. I’m
certainly no expert, but I believe the things that normally can fail are the
seals and the bearings, both of which produce external symptoms – leaks in
the case of the seals, or noise and vibration in the case of the bearings.
BTW, does the engine overheat without putting it under load?On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 9:56 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
The sea water pump on the W58 is really too small for the engine. Mine
was replaced with a larger Sherwood pump on a stainless steel bracket with a
large aluminum pulley. Moved a good bit more water. I still have that
whole outfit, including a spare pump, left over from my re-power, if you are
interested in going that way.Rebuilding water pumps is really quite easy. The seals are removed, the
bearings pressed out (a socket and hammer works in the stead of a press),
the shaft polished up a bit with very fine emery paper, the wedge and
o-rings replaced, and you basically have a new pump. The rebuild kits come
in two or three degrees, depending on your pump. The largest kit includes a
new shaft. Call Depco for the kit or shop around for it online. Or just
get the bearings and seals (plus O-rings) at your local bearing store and
order the wedge from Depco. Buying a new pump is a waste of money when
rebuilding is so easy.Hope this helps.
Pete
On 4/27/2010 10:51 PM, james bartch wrote:
Aloha to All
Thank you for the advice, i am getting closer to the problem. it has to
be on the coolant or fresh water side. I am suspecting that the fresh water
pump may be bad but… is there a good check to make sure. i am not sure
which hose to pull to make sure the pump is actually pumping coolant thru
the system.symptom: after i fill the engine with coolant and run it for a while, put
it under a load, cap off and shut it down it spits out coolant, does not
appear to be cycling coolant thru the system or coolant appears to be backed
up and then overflows after the engine heats up.i am thinking that it may be the pump, i see on line that these fresh
water pumps can be re built, is that the best way to go?I have not pulled the pump or checked the hoses that go to and from the
pump yet, just wanted to see if a hose can be removed to check flow on the
outlet side of the pump, but not sure.thank you in advance for the help, you guys are great!
S/V Island Muse #217
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Tor,
I haven’t attempted to join two pieces of foil together, but I think I would
put some solder in that fold to make sure your get a strong connection.On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 12:43 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey John,When it comes to electrical stuff, the devil is often in the terminology –
at least, for me. I thought radials were some kind of improved car tire…
that roll on the “ground”. 🙂Wow, that copper strap dissolves like Alka Seltzer in hot water. I ran my
3″
strap over the top of the fuel tank, down to its first thru-hull
connection,
and then forward along what has so far always been dry areas in the upper
bilge. Will have to remember to inspect it from time to time, though. And
speaking of strap runs, I need to splice two sections of 3″ copper strap
together. I figured I’ll just place them together end to end and fold them
several times so that the 3″ width remains continuous. Is there a more
correct way?Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
At the risk of giving you more options than you want or need, you might
consider installing radials for your RF ground plane instead of or in
addition to the copper foil. That is what I’m running off after having
great difficulty getting good connections to Winlink and SailMail on our way
to the Azores in 2005. When we were in Horta a friend (who had installed
the copper foil ground for me) suggested adding radials to SGC ground. He
provided all sorts of suggestions on lengths (1/2 the wavelength of the
primary frequency) and material (12 AWG primary wire) to use, none of which
helped. I had some excess 1″ copper braid on board, so we strung a couple
of radials of arbitrary lengths off the SGC – one horizontal below the deck
back to the stern, the other athwart-ships down under the fuel tank, all of
this in the Port Cockpit locker. My crew was in the locker moving the
radials around while I tested several frequencies looking for decent SWR
readings. Eventually we found the arrangement that worked decently and I’ve
been running off that arrangement ever since.
This spring I discovered why the original copper foil ground plane did not
work so well. When I had hatches cut into the cabin sole under the table I
finally had access to the one area where the foil could not be secured to
the hull. Here is what it looked like:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/TableHatch8.JPG.
Salt water from removing and replacing the knotmeter sender collected on top
of the copper foil and dissolved it. So if you are installing foil make
sure you keep it out of the way of any saltwater or seal it with something
(e.g., epoxy)John
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 9:53 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:My comment was about connecting the DC ground to the RF ground plane. The
radio equipment typically connects them internally. In theory, it would be
possible to put in a transformer that would separate them, but I see no
advantage. Sorry if my discussion was confusing. The subject of RF ground
planes is too complicated to explain in a short mail message. My suggestion
is to have someone who is qualified advise you on how to hook this stuff up.With regard to the AC ground (green-wire in your shore power cord), I do
not have my DC ground connected to this. I don’t want stray AC current
getting into my shaft zincs.Rich
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Also check the hoses to the hot water heater (assuming you heat water with
the engine). Unless you have a diverter valve to control the flow to the
water heater (my W60 did not), an air lock in these hose can restrict or
shut down the water flow through the heat exchanger. Whenever I drained the
coolant on my W60 I used to pour coolant into one of the disconnected heater
hoses untill it flowed solidly out of the other, then reattached the hoses
to the engine.On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 2:15 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:When you checked the heat exchanger did you pull the end cap and look into
it? When I took my boat for it’s first test sail we overheated about 100yds
outside the breakwater. Heat Exchanger was gummed up.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:01 PM, james bartch <
wrote:
Aloha to All
My w-58 is still heating up even after i have checked the obvious, any
suggestions on what else i can check before i call in the machanic? new
impeller, changed the thermostat, cleared the lines and looked forimpeller
pieces, have water flow out the discharge, cleaned the raw water
strainer,
checked the heat exchanger as best i know how, checked the oil
cooler-heat
exchanger and have no obvious external leaking.
I can strart the engine run it for about 30 imnutes or so, under a load
and
then it starts to creep over 180 and i shut it down as it nears 200 +/-
any thing else that i can check? the engine runs smooth and does not
appear
to have any coolant or oil coming out of the discharge, the oil is clear
in
the engine, trans and v drive… coolant is clean.
please help!
the engine is supposed to be a 1995 series w58, but not sure of that,
survey indicates so with serial numbers._______________________________________________
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The new Loos gauges almost justify the price by allowing you to monitor the
tension while making adjustments to the turnbuckles. I’m glad I bit the
bullet 5 years ago and purchased one.On Sun, Apr 25, 2010 at 7:59 PM, Jubilee <> wrote:
thanks for all the information. We were looking at the Loos and was
wondering if it was going to be worth the outlay of funds. I’m more apt to
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John Stevenson
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Generally the rule is 15% of the breaking strength of the wire for the upper
shrouds and fore and backstays. 10% of breaking strength for the lower.
That gets you started with the mast in column. Then tune the rest of the
way under sail.On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 11:47 AM, Jubilee <> wrote:
Jubilee is getting her mast re-stepped after 1 1/2 years out of the water.
Does anyone know what the proper tension is for the cutter rig?_______________________________________________
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Thanks, Bob – that’s good to know.
On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi John,
Those spots can use the Dr LED bulbs – I use them in mine – all you have to
do is shave a bit off the circumference of the bulb and it fits in. The
tough part is having enough friction with your fingertips to allow you to
turn the bulb.Bob
On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 8:49 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
These are small spot lights that were original equipment over the head of
the aft bunk and on each side of the berth in the forward cabin. Theyhave
a bayonet base, but the throat of the bulb is much longer than a standard
bayonet bulb of the same base diameter. So those DrLED bulbs will notfit
the fixture. I’ve looked for years for a LED replacement with no
success,
so I’ll be really interested if someone has found one.
These are difficult to find bulbs even in the incandescent form, although
WM
does stock them (usually requires an order against the warehouse).
If you want to go LED, I think the only option is to replace the fixture
with one designed for LED or designed for one of the standard bulb
configuration for which there is a readily available LED (e.g., halogen
G4). I did replace the fixtures in the forward cabin with ones designed
for
LED, but they give very poor light. It’s a difficult location to put an
effective reading light, which is what I assume the spot light wasintended
for. So I’m still looking for a LED-ready fixture that will work in that
location.On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 2:02 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:That is a bayonette type bulb. Can you send a pic of the fixture as
well.
-p
On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 3:50 PM, Indulgence
wrote:
Hello,
I’ve been having some issues post to the list:
I have put up a picture of the bulb I am trying to replace….is this
the
same bulb that you found a replacement for…look at that light bulb
here:
I have not been able to find an LED with similar dimensions.
Suggestions?
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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These are small spot lights that were original equipment over the head of
the aft bunk and on each side of the berth in the forward cabin. They have
a bayonet base, but the throat of the bulb is much longer than a standard
bayonet bulb of the same base diameter. So those DrLED bulbs will not fit
the fixture. I’ve looked for years for a LED replacement with no success,
so I’ll be really interested if someone has found one.
These are difficult to find bulbs even in the incandescent form, although WM
does stock them (usually requires an order against the warehouse).
If you want to go LED, I think the only option is to replace the fixture
with one designed for LED or designed for one of the standard bulb
configuration for which there is a readily available LED (e.g., halogen
G4). I did replace the fixtures in the forward cabin with ones designed for
LED, but they give very poor light. It’s a difficult location to put an
effective reading light, which is what I assume the spot light was intended
for. So I’m still looking for a LED-ready fixture that will work in that
location.On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 2:02 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:That is a bayonette type bulb. Can you send a pic of the fixture as well.
-p
On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 3:50 PM, Indulgence wrote:
Hello,
I’ve been having some issues post to the list:
I have put up a picture of the bulb I am trying to replace….is this the
same bulb that you found a replacement for…look at that light bulbhere:
I have not been able to find an LED with similar dimensions.
Suggestions?
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
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I’d be interested to see how that works as well. There’s gotta be something
more than shock cord holding the pieces of the vane together. Otherwise it
would seem that the top of the vane would bend off to leeward making it less
effective – I must be missing something.On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 9:25 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:That sounds like a smart arrangement, Norris. I’d love to see some photos
of
it.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Pat,
My Monitor works with a Bimini over the cockpit, and my Bimini is fairly
high so I (6′ 1″) can stand erect under it. The secret is the Monitor comes
with a tall vane, which senses the wind above the Bimini. The top of the
vane is the part that drives the gear. If you get the Bimini designed for
your height there should be no problem. All bets are off if Dave can stand
under it :).
The only air flow problem I’ve had is once when I had furled the mizzen and
sheeted the boom to leeward. Then we tacked and I forgot to tack the mizzen
boom. All of a sudden the Monitor wouldn’t steer worth a darn. It was
night and under the Bimini I wasn’t aware of the mizzen boom being to
windward of the vane. With daylight I finally figured it out, tacked the
boom to leeward and the Monitor was its old self again.On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 3:47 PM, pat noordsij <> wrote:
This is a question for those folks with biminis and windvanes or biminis
and no windvanes or the other way around.Does it work? Does the windvane see the wind with the binimi? Please let
us know about your experiences ..– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178_______________________________________________
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Thanks, Patrick.
That’s a lot cleaner than the one I did a few years ago.On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 10:53 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I cleaned up the P424 line drawing from the specs brochure. I have a full
Photoshop CS4 version if anyone wants it. Here’s a .jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4463279053/-p
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Rich,
Like you I don't run in idle, just when putting the engine in gear and changing gear. I immediately power up to at least 1000 RPM even when maneuvering out of the anchorage or dock. I do get vibration under way at around 1500, then it smooths out at 1800-2000 – my normal cruising RPMs at 6.5 – 7.0 kts. On my way back to New Bern tomorrow (about 25nm up the Neuse) I'll experiment with RPMs and see if anything has changed.On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 4:44 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
Odd that you have vibration at idle speed. I don't think I run the engine in gear at idle so I can't comment. I have a folding prop, so idle isn't a good choice. According to my seatrial notes, I'd be doing 2.5 kts at idle. I need to run at at least 1000 RPM for the alternator and refrigeration compressor to work right. That's about 3kts. I've got a lower gear ration in my V-drive, so you're pushing the prop a little harder at low speed. I don't think I ever run the engine at idle unless I'm shifting gears.From my experience, if I'm just slightly out of alignment, the boat will vibrate at high speed, about 1000 shaft RPM. With a 2:1 gear reduction for a typical RV-20, that would be about 2000 engine RPM, maybe a little less depending on how far out you are. That's probably at about 6.7 to 7.0 kts depending on sea-state. As I recall, it would smooth out if I backed off to about 6.5kts. With the alignment correct, the boat runs pretty smooth all the way up to hull speed.
Rich
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Thanks, Rich.
I've started my research on this subject with your web-site. Interesting, the greatest vibration I get is in gear at idle throttle. When I increase the throttle to 1000 RPM the vibration goes away. This makes me believe this condition has been there for a long time. The W60 idled at 1100 and may have been masking the vibration. I never noticed it until the Yanmar repower, which idles at around 700.On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 3:45 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
From my experience, even though the gap is small, you may have some vibration at high shaft speeds. I think .003 is within the V-drive alignment tolerance, but its almost impossible to get the darn thing aligned that close as it is. If you add .003 to your best effort, I think you'll be out of spec. Â
As discussed in great length, the RV-26 is not a direct drop-in replacement. I agree that its not practical to toss money at the old RV-20 since the cases are no longer available so you're stuck. Once you replace the thing, you should be home-free. Feel free to call me if you have problems retro-fitting the v-drive. I think the most difficult part was removing the ole splined shaft from the jack-shaft. You'll be tossing the old splined shaft. If it won't budge, Weld a bolt to the end of the thing and slip a pipe down its length. Then drop a washer over it and a nut. Tighten the nut to pull the shaft out.
Regards
Rich
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