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Patrick,
I used 7/16 Sta-SetX for the mizzen halyard, but I also replaced the wire-rope sheaves with rope sheaves. I think 3/8″ rope halyards would be a better choice, although Tor's point of standardizing the running rigging on the boat is a really good idea. Naturally on Sarah my main halyards are 1/2″ Sta-SetX.
The blocks are Ronstan (every bit as good as Harken, IMO, and about 1/2 the price). I used 7/16″ Regatta Braid for the sheet. Once again I'm one size larger than necessary or optimal. I attached the top block to the outboard bale and left the other one in place. I plan to use that bale for secondary sheet of some arrangement to give me better control of the boom when tacking. Right now I just have the bottom block in my hand as I move it from one attachment to point another. It has never gotten away from me in one of those maneuvers, but the possibility is real.John
On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 6:23 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:One reason for using the same size line on all the halyards is simply expense. You'll usually get a better deal on a larger quantity of one size line than on shorter lengths of various sizes. Replacing becomes easier, too, when everything's uniform.
At the other end of the boat, I've just installed an all wire halyard (and a wire winch) for the genoa, thus getting rid of that cumbersome bundle of halyard line that's forever dangling uselessly at the base of the mast. I'm happy to report that the wire doesn't slap the mast at all in squalls (so far) like the external line did.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Patrick,
The cam cleat is on the fiddle block on the stern rail, not on the end of the boom. The fiddle block is on a snap shackle. I move the snap shackle to the leeward running backstay pad eye when the mizzen is set. The lazy running back stay is attached to a D-shackle on the mizzen inner shroud. It works well except when taking. I need to add a small tackle to control the mizzen boom while I am moving the sheet block from one side to the other. Still better than running the mizzen sheet down the boom to the mast.John
On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:21 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
I see Sarah (and I assume Whoosh) have moved the mizzen sheet to clam cleat mounted just inboard of the end of the boom.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_Mast
Looks like you have a fiddle block with becket, clam cleat and adjustable shackle, something like I see on the Garhauer site: http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=9
What size did you use for the block, line, etc? Also, what's up under your sail cover? I hope that's not too personal to ask. I assume you mounted a dual becket to the boom bail which is under there (at least on my mizzen there is one).
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Dale,
Sounds like I should give Mathews Pt. a call. I had planned to wait until I got in the immediate area and check out the place. Vic recommended the marina so I planned to give it a try. I'll probably be in the area in about 4 days.John
On Sat, Jun 6, 2009 at 9:24 PM, dale < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John, we are just up the river and across from Oriental, Mathews Point Marina in Clubfoot Creek. Vic Copland (Gigi’s Island) gave me copies of the DVD’s when he was here last week but we have not watched them yet. What months are you looking for a berth. We have an empty slip next to us at present.
Dale
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Tor,
If you are planned to jump off-shore for your trip north be sure to watch the tropical storm forecast to form between Cuba and the Bahamas late this week. The consensus forecast seems to send this storm well off-shore, but I've never before heard a NOAA forecaster use the term “Catawampus” in describing the lack of correlation between the various models. It appears this storm (if it even materializes) could probably go anywhere.—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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On Sat, Jun 6, 2009 at 7:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
John,
I'm going to take my time getting to Beaufort, but am not planning any long stopovers en route, either. So I should be there well before July 4th. Will probably go on up to the Chesapeake a month or two later, depending. Sounds like you'll be well ahead of me, but perhaps we'll cross paths. Hope so!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Tor,
I have been taking long stopovers (just finishing 4 days in Southport – didn't leave today as planned). So there's a good chance you may overtake me. I expect to move quickly past Beaufort (one of my least favorite stopover ports) up to the Oriental area. I will spend several days in that area looking for a winter berth, then probably move on to the Chesapeake. Once in the Chesapeake I'll likely stop in the Solomons area before heading south. I have 3 friends each with a dock I can use on the Patuxent. I expect to be heading back south in September.
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Tor,
I plan to depart from Southport, NC tomorrow heading up the ICW toward Beaufort, then probably the Chesapeake.John
On Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 3:33 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:TorIf you make it up the waterway as far as Oriental I can provide a slip and a bike to get around town or you can find a spot at the town dock that is free but sometime hard to get to. If you won't make it that far let me know maybe I can meet you in Beaufort for a tour and a beer.
The light house at Cape Lookout is a couple hours out of Beaufort inlet. The beaches are as nice as any in the world, it's a national seashore and holding is usually good. Ocracoke Island is reminiscent of Old Key West before the invasion and if you come up this far is a couple of hours out of the way but it is great. The channel can be tricky but usually there is a ferry that you can follow in. There are National Park docks near the ferry terminal with a nice bath house that are very reasonable.Linus
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Linus,
Think Quent's issue (Quent, please correct me) is that the Manson is pulling the chain off the wheel, possibly because the anchor shank is very long and lifts the chain off the wheel. If your clutch is slipping with a Fortress and the the shank never gets over the roller you may have a different problem. Since the Fortress is a pretty light anchor which shouldn't cause the clutch to slip it is likely the chain/swivel/anchor is binding on the roller – possibly due to the 90 deg turn at the roller.Then again I have a manual windlass and I don't have the option of pulling the anchor into the roller because of the interference of the other anchor. So I've never had to solve this particular problem.
John
On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:37 AM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John
You're right I really haven't taken pictures with the anchor in a bind. I did try it without the chain stopper and had the same problem. The clutch is slipping so what Quent said might be the case. I just didn't want to put too much stress on the roller, I'm a little chicken and as usual I ran out of time and had to return to work before I was able to resolve the problem. It sure would be nice to have the anchor jump right up on the roller so I can use the switch by the wheel to raise the anchor when short handed.
Linus<.. snip>
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Linus,
It's hard to tell from the photo, but my guess is your chain stopper is too low relative to the roller and prevents the anchor shank from coming above the roller enough to flip over horizontal. Try it once with the chain out of the chain stopper and see if everything works. I don't know what elevating the chain stopper will do to the operation of the windlass. Maybe also try it without the swivel, just a bow shackle.
My windlass (manual Lofrans Royal) is mounted just aft of where your chain stopper is located so I don't have a stopper. I have to lift my main anchor (Bruce) into the roller because I have a Chinese CQR in the port roller.On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 6:20 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
We have a Lewmar 900 which is on the small end of the range for boats like the P-424. It has sufficient power to raise our 60# Manson, but won't pull it over the roller because the chain jumps off the windlass.
However if we attach the snubber chain hook to the chain just above the roller and take a couple turns on the windlass drum it comes up just fine.
Quent3
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Alan,
You really need to be directing these questions to Al Golden.
However it is a good idea to wait until you are sure you are going to leave before adding coverage outside of your normal sailing area. Last year, when I was getting ready to spend the winter in the Bahamas I kept my coverage for just the Chesapeake Bay then added the additional coverage for the Bahamas about a month before departing. It cost the same as if I had taken the full area coverage from the start, but then if I had not left the Chesapeake I would have been out the extra premium for coverage I didn't need. Of course it didn't save me any money, because I made the trip.John
On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 7:42 AM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I expect so….I originally just took coverage for Maine to Florida and Bahamas incl, T&C, then added Caribbean when I got there, and that was the additional $650/year.— On Thu, 5/28/09, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Alan,
Only your insurance agent can answer those questions. My understanding of the Markel policy (I actually haven't looked at the Ts&Cs for several years – so I can be at much greater risk than I think) is that I am uninsured for any potential claims in the exclusion zone and time period. It isn't that Markel would not pay a claim, but they are not obligated to do so (I guess that is the same as saying they wouldn't pay).
That's one of the reasons I'm currently in Charleston and not in Florida.John
On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 9:14 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:It looks like the exclusion zone is between July 1 and Oct 31 and need to be north of Jacksonville Fla or south of Grenada. (10 deg 50' and 31 deg N)
What I am trying to find out is, do I become totally self insured then or just will pay a large ( almost double) deductible?
If I am there, am I still insured for claims not having to do with a Named storm?alan
— On Wed, 5/27/09, John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Alan,
What coverage area did you ask for. My insurance for the US East Coast (90K value) including the Bahamas (from Markel) was a little less, but not much. I've had my insurance with Markel since 2005.John
On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I just received a quote for offshore insurance from Jackline. 2700 for 80K boat. How did everyone else make out with their search?
alan— On Wed, 4/1/09, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Chuck,
I think you've once more opened up that discussion on free-wheeling. When I replaced my Paragon with the Velvet Drive last year I had the Velvet Drive tech rep state unequivocally that free-wheeling will not damage the VD. Of course that rotating prop makes a lot of noise, so you may still want a brake, but it won't damage the transmission (according to VD) nor the V-Drive (according to Walter).John
On Sun, May 24, 2009 at 12:55 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pat, a standard pipe plug will cap the hole.
I say keep it cause if you lose your folding prop for some reason and have to resort to a backup (Hal didn't throw anything away, I still have the original Michigan Sailor) you'll want to be able to lock the prop as the Velvet Drive ideally shouldn't spin free when the engine isn't running. Sea Duty has a Maxx Prop as well as a working prop lock.
The spring could be found at Home Depot or Lowes. The seal kit for the hydraulic unit is still available from the manufacturer of that component and the brake pads can be found also.
If you need any information on parts I'll dig them up.
It's a really cool unit that is surprisingly well made. I've got no springs on mine and it works without but rattles.
ChuckOn Sun, May 24, 2009 at 2:42 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Was the Wilbur Industries Proplock standard equipment? Has anyone removed theirs and have learning to share on that?
I want to remove it because its ancient and it appears as though Wilbur Industries is out of business, there's a spring on it which is busted, it extends almost all the way out to the engine cover and I plan to get a folding prop eventually which will accomplish the same.
I'm just not sure about removing the line from the transmission case will that result in a big mess? What kind of plug do I then use to cap that hole and what are the odds I'll be able to find the plug for a W58?
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Rich,
I'll be interested in the wiring you come up with. Last fall when motor sailing south of Winyah Bay the engine drain cock came loose and dumped all of the coolant into the containment pan under the engine. The over-temp alarm came on but it was so weak my crew on watch couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Fortunately I'm a light sleeper when off-watch and it go me up and discovered the engine temp gauge was pegged. Shut the engine down before any damage, but I'm not sure what would have happened if I hadn't woken up.RE: The oil loss. The old gasket sounds like a culprit, but its hard to believe that wouldn't have been noticed by whomever did the oil change – unless they just closed up the engine without running it.
Oh, I now check that drain cock very often.
On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 1:32 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My yacht club has two launches with Yanmar 75 horse engines. The boats were purchased new about 3 years ago. This is the same engine that I have in my boat. When servicing one of the launches this spring, someone improperly installed an oil filter. I'm not sure how you do this wrong. Perhaps they didn't remove the gasket from the old filter before installing the new one. The filter leaked all the engine oil into the bilge and then seized. The operator didn't hear the engine alarm. It is suspected that instrument panel alarm override switch was set, silencing the alarm. The yanmar alarm is not very loud. Its possible that the operator didn't hear the alarm over the engine noise even if the switch was not set.
The club is replacing the failed engine. We've removed the alarm override switch and replaced the whimpy yanmar buzzer with a 110db alarm. For those of us who have installed similar yanmar engines, I suggest doing the same. I'll be taking a close look at my instrument panel this evening. The yanmar alarm has several wire terminals for the connection of various engine senders. Its not clear that you can just replace the buzzer with a different one. I think there are isolation diodes in the buzzer. I may have to do some extra wiring to get this done properly. Once I figure out precisely what's needed, I'll send out another message with more info.
Regards
Rich Carter—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Dan,
I haven't replaced mine, but I believe it is the Whale Titan. Of course that is my boat, it could have changed with later models.John
On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 3:22 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I've started planning for our first inter island cruise to Molokai'i and noticed that the old manual bilge pump handle was not on the boat when we purchased her. Prudence tells me to just go ahead and replace the whole aging unit. Has anyone replaced the manual bilge pump lately? Is there a drop in replacement (ours looks original).
Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Ron,
Regardless if you use a broker or not, I would post a notice of the for sale in the various cruising forums on the web. The Cruisers Forum and the SSCA Forum are just two of these. If you are a member of SSCA you can post an add on the website and in the bulletin.The P424, as this email list attests, is still a very popular cruising boat. There are a lot of wanna be's on these forums who might just become a gonna be with your boat.
You might also look at Canadian publications as the Lake Erie is a long way from the SE USA, but not that far from Missaugua (sp?).
John
On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Ron Repp < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Dan, thanks for the advice. She lies in Sandusky, Ohio on Lake Erie (fresh water her entire life.) Ron
Ronald S. Repp, CPCU, CLU
Senior Vice President
Schauer Insurance
200 Market Ave., N Suite 100
Canton, OH 44702
Phone: (330) 453-2802
Fax: (330) 453-4911
Email: ()<.. snip>
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