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John,
You may have found something in the manual that I was not aware of, but I don't think the IC-718 will “tune” the SGC. What the connector may provided is power-on/off to the SGC whenever you power on/off the IC-718, which is a nice thing – I have a separate power switch for the SGC that I have to remember to turn on when I am ready to start transmitting. More than once I'll start a Winlink or SailMail connection and wonder why I'm getting terrible readings on the SWR meter. Then I remember to turn on the SGC.
In addition to the coax from the radio there are only the + and – 12V power leads and the red/white reset line. If you applied neg Batt to the reset line it clears the SGC memory, where it keeps the tuning data. I'm not sure you want to connect the IC-718 to that reset line. So if you're just connecting the pos Batt and neg Batt leads to the IC-718 and allowing the IC-718 to power up the SGC that sounds good. However, as far as I know, all of the tuning is internal to the SGC and the tune button on the IC-718 does nothing in your configuration.Rodd's recommendation is consistent with what I know, although I use a piece of pvc covered SS lifeline material to connect to the backstay. Just connect it above the lower backstay isolator. If you have some GTO 15 left over, you may want to connect a jumper wire over the delta plate that connects the dual lower backstays to the main upper backstay.
John
On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 3:14 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John:
You would run GTO-15 neon sign wire that is available at any neon sign shop– you might even get a short length for free from the shop owner. This is a high voltage wire that you can attach to the backstay above your bottom insulator using various clips– i always used just a stainless steel hose clamp.
good luck!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker #214Quote:
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In the interest of honesty (and the odd chance that some of my old Chesapeake friends should gain access to this thread), I'll fess-up that I used to be one of those self-appointed DJs of the anchorage. My friends could relate the many nights of raft-ups when I entertained them with Puccini arias and Bob Dylan covers until the wee hours. I guess age and age-attitudes catch up with us all.
On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 1:37 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
On Sea Duty Capt. Hal installed some small self contained cube speakers in the forward upper interior space in the coaming sheet storage area (that spot under the primaries your guests load up with stuff). They cannot be seen from the outside without sticking your face up into the opening. They provide ample volume and routinely get hit with the hose, and are out of the way. What I was thinking is it might be possible to mount your flush mount speakers facing down in the same space. The question is whether you can access the cavity above it.
If you'd rather not cut a hole (I wouldn't) then you might be able to mount the speaker on a fitted piece of teak and secure the whole unit up in there, facing downward. It's a pretty large void. Allow for drainage.
As much as I agree that music in an anchorage can sometimes be a downer, a rousing tune at sea can set the mood for the day. Capt. Bill on Charisma got the show going one am as we crossed the Gulf Stream with a selection from “Victory At Sea”. It set the tone for the eminent arrival and put an ear to ear grin on his face while playing… I also have a vivid memory of a Anegada sunrise with the sounds of Amazing Grace on the bagpipes lightly drifting in from another vessel. Having been a firefighter for 15+ years this was a moving moment that I was glad another boater shared with me.
ChuckOn Sat, May 9, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
They are not mounted yet, but I plan to run the wire from the stereo which is in the shelf above the aft berth up under the headliner and then out to the cabin top. I'll probably have a waterproof connection there so I can remove the speakers it I want.
I will be redoing the headliner when I rebed all the deck hardware so I will finish it then, right now I just have one of the aft speakers hooked up with the wire running free and I place it where I want when working above deck.
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Adam,
I think we all miss-read you when you said flush mount. We should have asked for more details on the speakers before offering mounting positions. I think Patrick has the best solution – under the Dodger. You might consider making the mounting removable, so the speakers can be stored below when you are not on the boat.On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 9:11 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:That's what I have. Pyle 3 1/2″. How are yours wired?-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On May 8, 2009, at 7:02 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Along those lines, I am going to mount my cockpit speakers under the Dodger or Bimini, but they're the external box speakers, not the cutout mount in the wall kind.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comhttp://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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If you put the speakers below the bridge deck, and are planning to sail off-shore, I would come up with some way to provide a water tight seal over the speakers. If you take green water into the cockpit, which I have, you don't want that seawater soaking through your speakers. My location recommendation would be the aft cockpit coaming, above the bench seat. You'll still need to provide covers for the speakers as they will still be exposed to rain and spray, but at least not submerged (until you are stepping up into your life raft).
You have to take my suggestions in the context that I decided not to install cockpit speakers. I use an iPod for music in the cockpit. Of course that means I don't share my music with others – let them get their own iPod. Maybe that has something to do with my current single-handed status. Anyway sharing of music is highly over-rated, IMO – having shared anchorages with boats with cockpit speakers I've been tempted to offer them the use of my iPod.On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 6:24 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I would put them in the forward bulkhead, under the bridge deck. Low
traffic area so less likely to get stepped on and it doesn't impact
storage and it is dead stupid simple to wire to.But that's just me.
Bob
On 5/8/09, Adam MacNeill < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Alan,
Yes, the swing arm is just screwed into the bulkhead.On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 8:20 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Lee:
Since you have received recommendations for both Lexan and Plexiglass, both of which have different advantages and drawbacks (as with all things boating), here is a discussion comparing the 2 that may be of interest, so you can decide which best fits your situation:
http://ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5106&
Paul
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Lee,
I replaced the three boards with a single 8mm Perspex (Plexiglas?) board. I chose a clear plastic so I could see my chartplotter from the cockpit when sailing down wind in rain. Depending on how much coverage you get from your dodger, there may not be much advantage to multiple hatch boards. I like the simplicity and ease of storage of a single board. It sits against the bulkhead at the head of my bunk in the aft cabin.
Go to http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm and page down about halfway for pics.You may want to go with a tinted hatchboard to reduce sun glare in the aft cabin. I wanted clarity for the chart plotter, but otherwise would have gone with a bronze or similar tint.
Regardless of what type of plastic and however many pieces I doubt you will ever want to go back to wood hatch boards. The amount of light they add to the aft cabin is reason enough to change.You can get a hatch board fabricated out of plexiglas or similar at any plastic shop. Unless you have the tools to work with plastic I would leave the cutting and finishing to a plastics shop.
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 10:53 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The lower board for our aft companion way came up missing. I'd like to replace the two teak boards with three clear plastic boards. Any ideas about the advisability of this change and where to buy the the best material for this job will be greatly appreciated.
Lee
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Regards,
John Stevenson
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Bob,
I think my boot-stripe is still pretty close to the original. This is a 2″ or less of unpainted hull between the top of the bottom paint and the boot stripe.
Go about 1/2 down this page to see.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htmOn Wed, May 6, 2009 at 6:01 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look 'prettier'. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well done, I say!
So I'm trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I'm wrong, then the bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.
Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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John,
I don't think you can go wrong with the SGC230. That's what I have with my ICOM 802.On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 10:45 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Good thread on this on QRZ.com
http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=189175
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Also 5/16″ for the Solent Stay. I originally planned on 3/8″ (website still says that), but my rigger talked me out of it.
2009/4/26 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:5/16″ for the inner forestay.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich,
That is indeed a great price for one of those tools. For the cost of a Fein you could buy 7 or 8 of these. I have an old Ryobi (just couldn't make myself part with $ for the Fein), but it isn't even worth $10 (I probably paid $50). It really is just a detail sander – not cutting heads. Every year I think about replacing it. A couple of months ago I was ready to buy one of the Dremel tools Bob has, now I have another choice. I'm beginning to hate decisions.John
On Fri, Apr 24, 2009 at 10:32 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
As I've already admitted, I'm a tool junkey. My wife sometimes thinks our boat is just a big toolbox for me. Every now and then I come across a tool that I never thought I'd really use but buy on a whim or to help with one specific task. After playing with the tool for a while I wonder how I ever lived without it. The multifunction tool is such a device.
I bought one from the Harbor Freight store last month when we went to Florida on vacation. Most folks probably wouldn't put a stop to a tool outlet up there with a visit to a theme park, but I do. I normally order stuff from these folks by mail-order. Since were were staying close to one of their outlets I snuck away and did some power shopping. I left with one of their multifunction tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700
I need to replace a piece of teak plywood around one of my portlights in the V-berth. I figured that the saw attachment would help me make a clean cut around the damaged area. I'm not replacing the whole piece, just what's damaged. The mutifunction tool comes with a detail sander attachment. This was of little interest when I bought the tool since I already own three detail sanders. Last week we sanded the exterior brightwork. I tried the sander attachment. Holy Smokes! This makes my other detail sanders look lame. It actually works. My wife got her hands on it and wouldn't give it back. I should have ordered two. Unfortunately, I didn't order any sandpaper for the tool since I never figured we'd use it for sanding. It takes hook-and-loop paper and the head size is different than my other sanders. We tried paper from one of my other sanders, but it didn't really fit. We damaged the hook and loop pad on the tool head as a result, but its still usable. Harbor Freight doesn't sell just the sander head.
Last night I went up on the boat and cut out the damaged plywood section. The advantage of the saw feature on this tool is that you can get into very tight places and make very fine cuts. I figured that it would take a while with the new tool. After all, the head doesn't rotate, it just vibrates back-and-forth. To my surprise, it cuts pretty well however. I first attached a couple of pieces of scrap wood to act as guides, then ran the multifunction saw blade across the area to cut. It cut through the wood, only scratching the inside face of the fiberglass coach. I had the damaged section out in 5 minutes and the cut is perfectly clean. Now I'm scratching my head over what else I can use this thing for. Dozens of things come to mind from cutting hose to chipping paint. How did I ever live without it?
Harbor Freight tools are a hit-and-miss proposition. Some of their tools are superb while other are junk. Their mutifunction tool is a surprising hit, but it has some issues. The power head has four very small pins that engage the attachments. A socket screw fastens the attachments. While we were using the sander, the screw became loose and allowed the sander attachment to come loose. It wore away the locking pins. The accessories still work without the locking pins, but I wish I had been more careful. The tool didn't come with a lockwasher for that screw and I didn't bother to put one on. If you purchase one, put a 1/4″ lock-washer on there. You can't get a replacement sander attachment. If you wear away the velcro you're stuck. I'm pretty sure I can replace the velcro on the attachment however when it wears away as it surely will. Even my expensive Bosch sander needs the velcro pad replaced every now and then. Attachments like sandpaper are available only from Harbor Freight. The tool comes with two sanding pads. They appear to be of good quality and I assume that replacement paper will be of equal quality. I'm not sure yet, but the Dremmil attachments might fit with minor modification. It even comes with replacement motor brushes. At only $40 for the tool, I can live with some minor flaws.
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Chuck,
It looks like you have one seacock (the Groco with the butterfly valve – The one you may have identified as Perko) and two ball valves (probably Conbraco). The seacock can be dis-assembled and repaired. I'm not a fan of the Conbraco ball valves.I'd replace them with Groco or similar.John
On Tue, Apr 21, 2009 at 9:38 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I did my seacocks, I found out that there are rebuild kits available….. new seals, seats and balls…….
alan— On Tue, 4/21/09, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Howard,
+1 on Rich's comments. Although the track could be the leak source the stantions, bow and stern pulpits are also potential sources. I had one deck leak on Sarah that I fought for over a year. During heavy rains I would get a tablespoon or so of water in one locker. I removed all of the vinyl covering in that locker and could see the water was coming down one of the deck flange screws – from the hull/deck joint. I finally found the source when I removed the bow pulpit to run some electrical wire and found there was no sealant under those stanchions, which bolt through the hull deck joint. After I sealed those stanchions my leak disappeared.
Once water gets into the hull-deck joint it can come out almost anywhere, usually through one of those screws.
Just got your last update. There does not appear to be any spacer in the deck joint. The only wood is on the cap rail.John
On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 9:00 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Howard
My 424 has solid glass under the teak toe-rail. I've had no leaks there despite high loads on the track for over 30 years. I'd be surprised to find that yours leaks, but nothing is impossible. Are you sure that the track leaks or could the leak be elsewhere? I've had leaks under the stanchions and the chain-plates must be rebedded every few years. Could they be the source of your leak?
If your leak is under the toe-rail, the question is “is the track leaking or is it the hull-to-deck joint?” Sealing the track would be fairly straightforward if you can get at the fasteners. The hull-to-deck joint would be much more difficult. I believe that Pearson used 5200 to bond the hull and deck. The toe-rail cap is screwed into this using stainless screws set with either polysulfide or silicone sealant. The track is then through-bolted to the rail cap. There are no other fasteners at the deck joint.
Regards
Rich
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Aaron,
I'll let the more mechanically-inclined offer guidance on a possible starter problem. However the first thing I would check is the wiring, in particular your neg battery wire from the engine to the negative battery bus (or however it is implemented on your boat). It doesn't take a lot of current to close the solenoid, but if you have a loose or broken connection to the negative battery the starter may not turn. I fought that problem on my previous boat (intermittantly would not start) and found that the terminal lug on the engine has just about broken through.John
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Opening day at the yacht club, so naturally the boat wo’t start. 🙂 (worked fine a couple days ago.)
When I go to start the motor there’s a ‘click’ in the vicinity of the starter motor. It sounds like the solenoid's engaging, but no motor spin.
Is there any troubleshooting I need to do to wiring, or should I just pull the starter and have them rebuild it?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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John,
Glad you were finally able to get coverage. Things have certainly tightened up. When I went with Markel in 2005 I did have to have a survey (previous one was in 2000), but there was no issue with time under coverage for a blue water voyage. I left for Europe 2 months after starting coverage with Markel. I was never asked for my experience or my crew's experience.
One reason things may have changed came up in a conversation I had with Al Golden last year. In 2007 Markel had a claim rate of over 40%. That is over 40% of the policies in force that year had a claim on one sort or another. Sounds like they have tightened up their underwriting since then.John
On Fri, Apr 17, 2009 at 10:47 AM, Indulgence wrote:
Hello,
I wanted to provide everyone with an update on my search for insurance for my planned trip to Bermuda June 20th.
The only carier that would insure me without requiring Bermuda experienced crew was Travelers. The policy compares favorable to my existing policy, but with a greater coverage area (Maine to FL, including the Bahamas) for $1237. I was able to purchase a special trip endorsement for $750. The good news is that they are not requiring me to re-survey the boat (the current one is from 2006) and do not require a change in my crew.
Markel would not cover the trip because I would have to be with them for 1 year before covering. Osprey/Great Lakes wanted 3,185 and 3 blue water experience crew. Others refused quote.
The lesson here is to start at least a year before your planned trip (or you options will be very limited). I have a 50 ton masters license, I suspect that without that, no one would have insured me (even though I have never made a claim). My previous insurer was unable to offer blue water insurance….another lesson there; think about your future cruising plans when picking an insurer so you don't have to scramble around at the last hour to find an insurer.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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So true. Also Costco, BJs, Container Store, etc.
John
On Fri, Apr 17, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John, we ALWAYS have to make a trip to Walmart when we get back to the States.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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