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Bob,
Neat solution. The stuff is so cheap you probably don't need to worry about UV – just replace the stuff annually or sooner. I priced a 35'x1″ roll on Amazon.com for less than $2.00. I'll give it a try the next time have to seal the partners.John
On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi All,
You'll love this: if you have access to heat shrink tape, you can seal the outside of the mast with that over the partners clamped then heat with hot air gun for a professional look. Cheap, easy, and totally UV protected. Comes in white, blue, or clear (although I don't see the point of clear for this application). If sealed properly (and easy to re-do) will not leak. Sure, not very salty (rubber impregnated canvas), but after struggling with all the cock-a-mayme mast boots I've dealt with over the years, this is the best.
If you need two layers, do the bottom around the partners first, then overlap the top on the mast second. Ba-da-boom, ba-da-bing, fuggeddabouddit.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Then it sounds like two problems. I'd attack the outside one first
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:07 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:It leaks from both the inside and around the outside.
Lee<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Lee,
I agree with Bob, need specifics of the leak. Few of us have the in-mast furler so we may not be able to provide much help.
If the leak is around the Spartite, then that should have nothing to do with the furling mast.
Spartite does not seal the mast partners. For that you must use a normal deck sealant. If you have not had your mast pulled for a number of years the sealant around the Spartite may have separated from the partners. If you have pulled the mast recently, it may not have been properly re-bedded.
Usually the the Spartite is held in place with self-tapping screws through the mast deck collar. If you remove those you may be able to pull the Spartite up the mast enough to put sealant around it and push it back down.When I pulled my mast in 2007 it leaked badly after being re-stepped until I pretty much gunked the Spartite with sealant.
I assume you have a cover (Sunbrella) for the Spartite as it is not UV-resistant.
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 8:09 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey, Lee, is the water running down the inside or outside of the mast? That's a key issue.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi, Quent.
Well I'm still working the parts issue. I received my impeller kits from Nassau today – wrong impellers. Apparently NL switched raw water pumps a while back. I'm waiting to hear back from Nassau if the old impellers are still available. If not I may be into a new pump.While I was in Vero, the boat I was rafted to just got a new Honda. The guy who sells them must be doing well. When do you plan on leaving VB? Looks like I'll be here a little longer. If i have to go to a new pump I may go to the local boatyard and have their mechanic do the work.
A strong front is coming through this evening, probably going through VB this afternoon. Marsh Harbor fills up whenever the wind goes over 15 kts. It has the best holding ground in the Abacos and is well protected. Problem is I know have another boat anchored less than 50' off my bow. Hope he doesn't drag tonight.
John
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 9:13 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi John-
Our little Kubota DC genset crapped out here in Vero Beach, and the local turned a small problem into a large one. We are going with what appears to be a common remedy. For the price of two service calls, we are getting a Honda generator. They appear to be everywhere down here. Their gentle hum is a complimentary background to the ever present “no-see-um” bugs.
Quent
Lying Vero Beach, eventually bound for Abacos—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
Glad we were able to make contact. Hope others can get in next time.John
On Sat, Jan 10, 2009 at 7:16 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:This is a reminder that there will be a P424 net this evening at 8PM Eastern
time.Rich KE1EV
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I just discovered a new truth, “If you don't have the part on-board no inventory application is going to find it for you.”
Last night my generator shut down. I discovered no seawater coming out the exhaust. So I waited until this morning to climb into the locker and remove the old impeller. I think I got my $.25 out of this sucker (see pic). That impeller was in the generator when I purchased Sarah.
All I needed was to get my hands one of the two spare impeller kits I knew I had on board. So I fired up the workbook and searched for impeller. Got 2 finds, both for the Yanmar 4Jh4AE engine. I tried several different search options – still nothing for the genset.
Finally i resorted to the standby procedure – opening all of the lockers and pulling out all of the contents. No genset impeller!!!!It finally dawned on me where my genset parts are – in the trunk of my car in Lexington Park, MD. Over the winter before the Yanmar was installed I moved the contents the cockpit and aft cabin lockers to either the trunk of my car or the marina dockhouse. Apparently they never made it back onboard. So when I developed the Inventory Workbook and inventoried the contents of all of Sarah's lockers the genset parts did not get picked up.
So now I have ordered the part through the Nothern Lights dealer in Nassau at a price that hasn't been determined. The Bahamas charges 45% duty on all boat parts shipped to foreign-registered boat. In addition I'll have to pay to have the part air-freighted from Nassau to Marsh Harbor. This is a very expensive lesson.
I had planned to leave for Eleuthera tomorrow, but now I have to stick around in Marsh Harbor through the weekend waiting for my part.
Just in case all of this has generated a lot of sympathy for my situation, I've also attached a pic of Marsh Harbor, taken 2 days ago. There are worse places to be stuck waiting on a part.
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Rich.
I'll be there
On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 1:17 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There will be a Pearson 424 radio net this Saturday at 8pm eastern time (1am UTC), 1/10/2009. The net will operate on 7.180MHZ LSB or somewhere close to that frequency if it is busy. The purpose of the net is to allow owners to test equipment, improve their operating skills, and to promote the discussion of marine mobile radio equipment and subjects that are of interest to 424 owners. Licensed operators (amateur general or better) are welcome to participate. If interested, please listen for the net on the above frequency. If the frequency is busy, please listen for us at frequencies close to that listed.
If you lack an amateur license or equipment that is capable of transmitting on 40 meters, please listen for us anyway. All that is needed is a radio receiver that is capable of receiving lower sideband signals on the net frequency and a good antenna. Most shortwave receivers are capable.
Rich KE1EV
BlackSheep
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
KI4JKDPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
I sent you an email from my winlink address so it should get through you Whitespace settings, which I assume are the default.One usefull thing to do is to use the Telnet module to send an email from your Winlink address to your normal Internet address. Then you can send test messages to your station from your Internet address and they will clear the Whitespace.
John
On Wed, Jan 7, 2009 at 1:11 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:If any of you get your Pactor modems working try dropping me a note at () I'm still working on mine over the air connectivity.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
________________________________________<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
I would also try to participate. I need to start using my license for something other than emails and GRIBs.I'm in Marsh Harbor, The Abacos which should be just about right for the fist skip.
John
On Mon, Jan 5, 2009 at 5:23 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Works for me. Pick a time and freq. I'm not sure how my antenna is working these days, but it would be fun to try out .(Had some wind damage in December that I have not yet repaired).Rodd Leeds
N2CQJ
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Lee,
Thanks for providing the info on these connectors. I had not heard of them.I use standard quick connect/disconnect electrical connectors, I'm not sure how much of an improvement these might be. They might be slightly more corrosion resistant. Sometimes the standard terminals take a little persuasion to come apart, which doesn't appear to be a problem for the power poles.
I guess the main drawback, other than price (?), is it is another piece of hardware you have stock onboard. Since the standard terminals are available just about anywhere I think I'll stick with them.
John
On Thu, Jan 1, 2009 at 11:28 AM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Have any of you guys tried using Anderson Power Poles (http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm) ? I think they would make rewiring/changing out spare pumps and such a very simple task.
Lee
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thank you, Pat, Cada and anyone else who was instrumental in getting these blueprints in digital format. I downloaded the sailplan over the WIFI here in the Marsh Harbor anchorage. It took a little while so I think I'll wait till late tonight to try the rest.
Now i can finally throwaway the paper blueprints before they turn into dust.
Pat, with your permission, I would like to replace the blue print mosaics on my website with these clean version.John
On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 11:53 AM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:they have now (finally ) made it to the website:
see: https://www.pearson424.org/uploads/linus.phpsorry it took so long.
– pat
(ps when i get back to the boat – i'll see if i can't find the U shaped galley layout)
Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:Pat
Did the drawings make it to the web site?
I looked but didn't find them..
Rick
Eclipse#73On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 8:59 AM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])
I have the drawing from Linus. I'm looking at the “best” to
present them. I expect to post them tonight.– pat
On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 7:27 AM, < ([email][/email])
Just found out converting blue prints to pdf is much cheaper
than I was orginally told. Plan to convert three drawings,
sail plan for sloop, deck layout specifications and interior
detailed drawing. Will not be able to do it until after
holidays. Will send out, but would hope we could put all of
them on the web site for future access.
CadaMe too and +1 on paypal 🙂
Cada
I'd be interested in PDFs. I have no need for hard
copies. As I said earlier, I'd be happy to chip in to
have them scanned. Paypal is pretty easy if you
accept it.—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rich,
RE: sourcefor the panel meters.My panel is Marinetics, which appears to be out of business. I have replaced my AC Ammeter with one from Blue Seas. They don't look the same, but they fit the panel cutouts and fastener holes. Blue Seas is of course available from WM and other retailers.
John
On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 12:04 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pete
Reverse engraving the panel is a great idea. If you sandwich two panels together, you can paint the surface of the bottom panel thereby protecting the painted surface from scratches.I used lexan for the engine panel I made. No lettering was required since there are no switches on it. I bought an appropriately sized hole saw for the gauges.
I've considered replacing my breaker panel, but there would be a lot of work involved with rewiring the whole panel. All I really need to do is refresh the white silk screening. I could probably make stick on letters, but the white stripes would be a challenge.
Has anyone seen a source for the original panel meters? My 12v meter sticks.
I've also considered making a small switch panel next to the breaker panel. IMHO, using the breakers to turn stuff on isn't a good idea. It limits what you can control. Its OK for stuff that you normally leave on, but I prefer a separate switch for stuff like each instrument. I have things like running lights setup with relays so that when I turn on my engine the inverter and engine blower turn on and lights revert from masthead to deck and the steaming light comes on. I use a single-pole double-throw switch for each circuit. The switch has three positions, on, off, and auto. The auto position is controlled by the ignition key through a relay. I've been considering making a new panel for these switches.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Qent,
Just Skyped my friend. The unlock sequence is
1 power down 802
2. hold down 2-Mode-Tx keys
3. while holding keys down power up.Then you should be able to set the frequencies for the user channels. Of course you cannot change the presets.
John
BTW, if you have unlocked the 802 and repeat the above sequence it will re-lock the user channels
On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 3:17 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Qent,
It does sound like the 802 has not been opened to allow setting other frequencies, specifically HAM. Sounds like you must have done something during a power-down or power-up to lock the unit. I assume from your email that you were previously able to program the channels.
I don't have access to the unlock procedure – it's buried somewhere on a different computer.
Did you originally open up the 802 or did an installer do it for you? You might do a search on the SSCA forum for the 802 unlock codes.
I'll see if I can contact a friend who makes his business installing 802s and Pactor modems.John
On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 12:50 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Folks-
I'm hoping someone out there can help figure out what I'm doing wrong. My SSB worked fine early this AM, but it has suddenly decided to refuse to let me program frequencies. All the preset channels work fine, but it won't make the little arrow after “RX” to allow a frquency to be entered. When the “clar RX” button is pushed it makes a lower pitched beep which I know from computers means “no” or worse. Likewise for the TX function, although it flashes, it will not accept any frequency numbers.
Did I accidenently hit some key that locks up stuff, or is this thing just busted!
Help!
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Qent,
It does sound like the 802 has not been opened to allow setting other frequencies, specifically HAM. Sounds like you must have done something during a power-down or power-up to lock the unit. I assume from your email that you were previously able to program the channels.
I don't have access to the unlock procedure – it's buried somewhere on a different computer.
Did you originally open up the 802 or did an installer do it for you? You might do a search on the SSCA forum for the 802 unlock codes.
I'll see if I can contact a friend who makes his business installing 802s and Pactor modems.John
On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 12:50 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Folks-
I'm hoping someone out there can help figure out what I'm doing wrong. My SSB worked fine early this AM, but it has suddenly decided to refuse to let me program frequencies. All the preset channels work fine, but it won't make the little arrow after “RX” to allow a frquency to be entered. When the “clar RX” button is pushed it makes a lower pitched beep which I know from computers means “no” or worse. Likewise for the TX function, although it flashes, it will not accept any frequency numbers.
Did I accidenently hit some key that locks up stuff, or is this thing just busted!
Help!
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
One other trick for refilling fastener holes is to soak a cotton ball in epoxy, then after taping the bottom push the ball gently into the hole against the tape. The epoxy is less likely to find a path under the tape and drip into the interior (been there!).
Agree no reason to rout out the core for the large hole, just seal the edges. You only need to provide a hard core when there will be a compression load on the cored deck. If you actually have a plywood core there may not be any reason to re-enforce the fastener holes. Every where I've drilled a hole through the trunk cabin or the deck it has been balsa cored.On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 4:21 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Oops, I forgot the part about re-drilling. Do that. But as Tor said, for large holes you're good with two coats of epoxy. Make sure the thing going through the hole is well bedded or caulked, too.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum