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Bob,
I’m at least skeptical. However I noticed that MainSail (Compass Marine)
posted the same warning on a forum a few years ago (
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/external-raw-water-strainer-65505.html).
This guy is pretty knowledgeable, and generally not an alarmist.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
The whole ‘forcing water into the engine’ thing is, in my mind, bs. The
amount of pressure required to force water through the whole system
including the raw water pump is ridiculously high. By that I mean 10s of
pounds per square inch – far more than you could ever generate moving at 8
knots through the water. There are boats that use speed through the water
to cool engines but they move very fast and have very large scoops.But I could be wrong.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:56 PM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Rich,
I agree, going with the round (no scoop) screen would not force waterinto
the system. The yard also said if I put the scoop on backwards (facing
aft) I would not have a problem, but that would defeat the purpose of the
scoop. For now I have left the engine intake un-screened. Again that
advice on the scoop screen may be baseless.I sized the screen such that even when half the screen was clogged by
debris I would still have full flow into my 1-1/2″ thru-hull. Irecommend
doing the same with the round screen.
I think you will find that most of the debris that might collect on the
screen will be brushed off once you are underway.
I don’t know which is worse for clogging seawater systems, weeds or sea
nettles, but I am sure the sea nettles are worse to remove. My frigwould
suck in 2 or 3 then they would die and turn into super glue. Often they
didn’t get to the strainer and just die in the hose from the valve. With
the screen on this intake I’ve never had a sea nettle clog the system.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:31 PM, wrote:
Thanks John,
I see two types of screens, one is round and the other is scooped. Isee
no mounting instructions so I don’t know which way the scoop is
supposed
to
face. If I put the round type on, I don’t see how it could force water
into the system. I’m not convinced that it won’t still get weed caughtin
it and eventually clog. Unlike the raw-water strainer, there is no
convenient way to clean it however. Draggers pull up great clumps ofweed.
This sometimes finds its way into our mooring area. These are big
clumps
Quote:of weed. If I sucked one into even a 1.5 inch intake, I think it might
clog though I might be able to pull the weed through.Rich
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Rich,
I agree, going with the round (no scoop) screen would not force water into
the system. The yard also said if I put the scoop on backwards (facing
aft) I would not have a problem, but that would defeat the purpose of the
scoop. For now I have left the engine intake un-screened. Again that
advice on the scoop screen may be baseless.I sized the screen such that even when half the screen was clogged by
debris I would still have full flow into my 1-1/2″ thru-hull. I recommend
doing the same with the round screen.
I think you will find that most of the debris that might collect on the
screen will be brushed off once you are underway.
I don’t know which is worse for clogging seawater systems, weeds or sea
nettles, but I am sure the sea nettles are worse to remove. My frig would
suck in 2 or 3 then they would die and turn into super glue. Often they
didn’t get to the strainer and just die in the hose from the valve. With
the screen on this intake I’ve never had a sea nettle clog the system.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 1:31 PM, wrote:
Quote:Thanks John,
I see two types of screens, one is round and the other is scooped. I see
no mounting instructions so I don’t know which way the scoop is supposed to
face. If I put the round type on, I don’t see how it could force water
into the system. I’m not convinced that it won’t still get weed caught in
it and eventually clog. Unlike the raw-water strainer, there is no
convenient way to clean it however. Draggers pull up great clumps of weed.
This sometimes finds its way into our mooring area. These are big clumps
of weed. If I sucked one into even a 1.5 inch intake, I think it might
clog though I might be able to pull the weed through.Rich
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Rich,
I was advised against using a scoop type screen on my engine intake
thru-hull by Deatons Yard in Oriental, NC. The reasoning was that the
scoop (mine was a slightly larger Groco), when sailing, could force water
through the system and eventually get water into the exhaust system and
into the cylinders.
I was skeptical of this reasoning, but unwilling test it so I left the
strainer off the engine intake, and just put one on the intake for the
frig, A/C and galley faucet. That intake was the one that was causing me
trouble on the Chesapeake. I ran the frig whenever dockside and it would
usually clog with sea nettles once a week. Since installing the scoop
screen I have not had a single clog.
I left the engine intake without a screen and have never had a clog, but I
also use a 1-1/2″ thru-hull and strainer. That intake serves both the
Yanmar 4JH4-AE and the Northern Lights M642 generator, which I rarely run
simultaneously.
This is the screen I intended to use on my engine intake:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234255|2234259&id=1806778
I think Tor put something similar on his engine intake, and has apparently
had no problems after 1,000s of miles of sailing. If that is so, the
advice I got is probably baseless.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 12:55 PM, wrote:
Last weekend, my raw-water cooling system got clogged again. This seems
to happen about once each year. It only seems to happen when the boat is
not moving as when the engine is idling at the mooring or just started. A
clump of seaweed gets stuck in the through-hull. There are only two
reliable ways to unclog the through-hull, either dive under the boat and
pull the weed out or back-flush it with a water hose. I’ve tried using the
shower hose to back-flush but it doesn’t seem to have enough flow. I need
to bring the boat to a dock and use a garden-hose. Here in the northeast,
the water is typically cold and I’m reluctant to dive to pull the weed, so
backflushing is the beast solution. I bought a sink drain snake but I
haven’t tried it yet. My guess is that simply pushing the clog out an inch
or two will only result in the weed getting sucked right back in.I’m thinking of adding an external screen to the outside of the hull. I’m
not sure that this will cure the problem however. The weed might just as
easily get stuck on the screen. Has anyone installed one of these and have
comments?http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|314196&id=673926
Rich
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It does sound like water in the ATF. The cooler is about the only way to
get water in there unless the boat was partially sunk. I wouldn’t bother
testing the cooler, just replace it.
I agree with Rich, might as well take the tranny to a good shop and have it
re-built, if necessary.
Many shops recommend replacing the damper plate whenever the tranny is
removed. If you have one of those plates with metal springs you may not be
able to get a replacement. It appears that most of the engine
manufacturers have gone to plates with rubber-like springs. Anyway that
was the situation when I replaced the damper plate on my Yanmar. Unless
you replace the damper plate with an identical one you may need shims in
the bell housing to fit it properly. Getting that engineered will probably
require input from Westerbecke.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 15, 2013 at 8:41 AM, wrote:
Quote:Probably a hole in your transmission cooler. I strongly suggest pulling
the transmission and sending it out for a rebuild. Removal is a simple
wrench job that you can do yourself and the rebuild should cost well under
$1k. You can replace the heat exchanger for about $100. The rebuild
should take a week or less. If your transmission was never serviced, it
was probably due anyway.While you have it out, take a good look at the damper plate. I don’t know
much about them but I’m aware that there are springs in there that get weak
with age.Rich
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Pete,
I can’t see the bushing on my gooseneck without taking it apart, but I
definitely don’t have any play in the fitting. There must be a missing
bushing.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 9:38 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Let’s try one more time. The picture is attached instead of pasted…
On 7/13/2013 8:55 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
hmm… picture??
– p
Pete Dubler wrote, On 7/13/13 9:44 PM:
I am getting ready to put my rig back together and noted that the goose
neck pin (bolt) (the one with the reefing hooks) has a lot of play relative
to the bushing. The bolt is 1/2″ and the bushing it 3/4″. It this supposed
to be this loose or am I missing an insert (nylon or otherwise) here? See
picture below.Thanks,
Pete
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I agree with Tor, if it ain’t broke …
To me the only reason to paint the spars is for cosmetic purposes. I had a
badly pitted aluminum mast on my previous boat. I must had a lot of excess
cash in my pocket back them because I had a boat yard paint it. They
etched the mast with an acid bath, then primed and painted it with
Alwgrip. It looked great even 15 years later, but I’m sure it would have
been fine without the paint. It would just looked a little older.I’m not sure I would agree with the CW caution on painting, as long it was
done expertly. It’s just not a necessity.The spars on my 424 are covered with something that may be grey awlgrip.
My guess it was done by a PO rather than Pearson, but I have no way of
telling.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 11, 2013 at 9:57 PM, Philippe Fontaine wrote:
Quote:My original masts were bare and had external halyards. Previous owner had
them painted with Awlgrip and put the halyards inside sometime prior to
1993.The paint has held up quite well though I have had to retouch quite a
few dings and scratches over the years.
Phil fontaine
Aurora # 94
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Pete,
I installed a PSS shaft seal on Sarah in 2001. No problems in the last 12
years. I replaced the standard stuffing box because I had a constant leak
of water into the bilge. It looked like it was coming from the stuffing
box. Turns out the leak was from the stuffing box on the rudder post.
I’m satisfied with the PSS seal, but probably would be just as satisfied
with the stuffing box.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:39 PM, Page Two wrote:
At present I don’t know anything about these drip less shaft seals (with
springs too?) but I do know without a doubt that as Bob and Indulgence hint
at, that the old stuffing boxes have been working OK for a long. long time.
Simple machined bronze to bronze, unbreakable really, with an inexpensive,
easily replaced waxy stuffing that if you actually do regular maintenance
tightening will keep your bilge dry. Guess I’ll have to study the
advantages or not of the PYI drip-less shaft seal that’s installed on my
soon to be floating home.
Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
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Pete,
I’ve used IMIS (Markel) for the past 8 years. This year my premium in FL
was about $1800 with an additional $550 for Hurricane coverage. I almost
skipped the Hurricane coverage because Jax almost never gets hit by a major
storm; however this area is subject to strong storm surges so I took it.
Melbourne is not subject to strong surges so I would likely have not taken
coverage if I kept my boat there. I plan to go to the Bahamas this fall
and that will require a $170 additional premium.
IMIS is an easy company to deal with, although I’ve never made a claim.
The Jackline policy is the only one I found that would cover me for
single-handed trips, although only for 24 hours. They are also one of the
few that will cover short-handed (2 person) ocean voyages. Boat/US just
isn’t in that business. When I sailed to Bermuda in 2001 I used Boat/US.
Initially they wouldn’t write the coverage because 2 of the 5 persons on
board had no ocean sailing experience. Those persons both had over 15
years of coastal sailing experience. Fortunately I had a friend in the
underwriting dept who convinced the VP that we were a reasonable risk.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 11:08 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Well it’s time to move the queen, Regina Oceani, back to salt water. We
working on setting up the trucking for early August and I stated to look at
the insurance for the boat being in Melbourne, Florida. I was amazed at
the BoatUS $3890 quote for a $125,000 hull value ($3645 with an $85,000
agreed value).I know the insurance discussion has graced these pages many times before,
but I thought I might ask for some current inputs and thoughts. Has
anyone worked with Al Golden? Other thoughts?Thanks,
Pete
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Thanks, Bob.
Doesn’t happen every time (obviously). May have something to do with
formatting I used. The last post that was rejected had a bullet list. I
run a couple of tests in the next few minutes.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 4:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:I’ll have a look but I don’t remember filtering you specifically. You
seemed like a nice guy when we met.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 3, 2013 4:33 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:Quote:It would appear the bar filters on Tor and Thatcher have been correctly
implemented. The filter on my emails is another matter.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:A lot? I get it all the time.
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It would appear the bar filters on Tor and Thatcher have been correctly
implemented. The filter on my emails is another matter.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:A lot? I get it all the time.
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Lee,
SAE 30 oil, but I think some have used other weights. I don’t think the
V-Drive cares that muchRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 5:35 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
What weight oil should I put in my V-Drive??
Lee
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When it comes to weight in the bow when stored, there is effectively little
difference between 5/16″ and 3/8″ G40 all chain rode. Since you normally
buy extended lengths of chain by the drum or 1/2 drum the weight is about
the same. A 1/2 drum of 3/8″ (200′) weighs about 310 lbs and a 1/2 drum of
5/16″ (275′) weights about 305 lbs. So you carry more 5/16″ than 3/8″ and
put out more. IMO, the only real difference is swinging room and breaking
strength (hoping that never becomes an issue).
I went with 5/16″ because I had a manual windlass. Now that I’m in the
process of installing an electric windlass I don’t think the choice is
really significant.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 12:41 PM, Page Two wrote:
Now that we’re talking about chain weight and how it helps keep the load
off an anchor, I’m going to ASSume that the difference in weight between
say 100′ of 5/16 and 100′ of 3/8 chain is more than a “one up” size anchor
weight. So 200′ or 300′ of 3/8 chain along with an even “one up” size
anchor is really putting some weight up forward. I guess the 3/8 helps when
it’s not blowing stink but when it is and the chain is humming tight, it’s
the scope and anchor that’ll keep you put. I’m going to stay with the 5’16
chain and play around with the 45# CQR for a spell locally (SE States) only
because most all my experience has been CQR. I’m sure I’ll go to something
like a Rocna 25 or a Spade when I’m ready to really get moving._______________________________________________
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Ken,
Yes, you need to organize this email list in your email client. I use
Gmail, which does a good job of keeping each email thread in a single slot
in my inbox. I haven’t used Outlook for years, but I think some simple
filter scripts can keep things organized. Those are the only two email
clients I’ve ever used.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 6:00 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Tor,
When I termed my generator as a counter weight I was being facetious –
shoulda put a smiley face on it.
It does balance the weight a bit when at anchor or dockside, but it only
magnifies the stern squat when underway. I haven’t experienced major
hobby-horsing, but when the NL generator gives up the ghost it will likely
be replaced by Honda at about 1/3 the weight.
When I replaced my 45# Bruce with the 60# Manson I also got rid of my 44#
Chinese CQR and reduced the weight on the bow by 16#. Then I replaced the
Lofrans manual windlass with a Quick Electric and am about back to where I
started.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 5:25 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I always thought a lot of weight at the ends of a boat causes her to
hobby-horse in a seaway. I don’t have a built-in generator and I’ve gone
out
of my way to minimize the weight distribution in Silverheels’ ends. Still,
on this most recent voyage she has been hobby-horsing more than I’m used
to
and I don’t know why.You guys with tons of ground tackle forward and generators mounted aft, do
your boats exhibit that tendency to rock fore & aft in head seas?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Tor,
When I termed my generator as a counter weight I was being facetious –
shoulda put a smiley face on it.
It does balance the weight a bit when at anchor or dockside, but it only
magnifies the stern squat when underway. I haven’t experienced major
hobby-horsing, but when the NL generator gives up the ghost it will likely
be replaced by Honda at about 1/3 the weight.
When I replaced my 45# Bruce with the 60# Manson I also got rid of my 44#
Chinese CQR and reduced the weight on the bow by 16#. Then I replaced the
Lofrans manual windlass with a Quick Electric and am about back to where I
started.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 5:25 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I always thought a lot of weight at the ends of a boat causes her to
hobby-horse in a seaway. I don’t have a built-in generator and I’ve gone
out
of my way to minimize the weight distribution in Silverheels’ ends. Still,
on this most recent voyage she has been hobby-horsing more than I’m used to
and I don’t know why.You guys with tons of ground tackle forward and generators mounted aft, do
your boats exhibit that tendency to rock fore & aft in head seas?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Page Two,
Like Alan, I carry a 60# Manson on 300′ of 5/16 G40 and 200″ of 5/8″ rope.
Previously i had a 45# Bruce on the same rode. I did drag that anchor
twice, first in Willoughby
Bayand then
nearFernandina Beach.
In both cases I was anchored in less than ideal holding ground with a gale
blowing. Still I decided to put some more weight down there so went to
the Manson. Haven’t dragged the Manson, but then I haven’t really tested
in similar conditions.
My backup is a 18# Fortress on 20′ of 3/8″ chain and 300′ of 5/8″ rope.
That anchor and rode is stored in the Port cockpit locker. There’s more
than enough weight in the bow even with a generator in the cockpit
lazarette as a counter weight.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 4:39 PM, Page Two wrote:
Hey Madsailor, thanks for the reply, That’s a big Bruce you got there. Is
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