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I’m actually pretty pleased with my ProFurl. As long as the lines are led
properly, it works like a dream.Bob
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 8:02 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Silverheels is due for new headsail roller furling to replace an ancient
Harken. Anybody have raves or rages to share regarding specific
brands/models?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Bob Fine
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks everyone! I’ll be checking internally to make sure those funky
addresses are caught properly.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 4, 2012 12:41 PM, “Philippe Fontaine” wrote:Quote:Got them both.
Phil Fontaine
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Hi All,
This is a second test because I made another change to trace what happens.
If you’ve already replied, no worries, if not, well, still no worries but
you know..I’ve changed a spam filter setting to help us reject emails that have
senders with hexadecimal addresses. So, you can read this and delete it or
read it and respond with something innocuous like, “Got it!” or you can
write a tome of any length. It would be nice to hear from you only to know
the filter won’t horribly mangle your email.Thanks!
Bob
On Sun, Nov 4, 2012 at 11:23 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
I’ve changed a spam filter setting to help us reject emails that have
senders with hexadecimal addresses. So, you can read this and delete it or
read it and respond with something innocuous like, “Got it!” or you can
write a tome of any length. It would be nice to hear from you only to know
the filter won’t horribly mangle your email.Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Oh, ok. I misunderstood. You’re right, it can’t hurt, but I wouldn’t have
thought to do that.Bob
On Thu, Nov 1, 2012 at 2:30 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:I disconnected my V drive from water. I filled the water jacket with Oil…
thinking that might help conduct any heat to the outside of the drive and
away from the drive.. might not really help but couldn’t hurt…Rick
On Thu, Nov 1, 2012 at 2:26 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:I think he meant he filled the oil portion with 30 W oil. Can’t imagine
having oil in the water jacket, although I could be wrong…Bob
On Thu, Nov 1, 2012 at 2:23 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
Quote:Do you think there is some advantage to the oil in it?________________________________
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I think he meant he filled the oil portion with 30 W oil. Can’t imagine
having oil in the water jacket, although I could be wrong…Bob
On Thu, Nov 1, 2012 at 2:23 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
Quote:Do you think there is some advantage to the oil in it?________________________________
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Much less than 140. Scalding temp is 120-130, so its less. I think the
drives do well with no water, although mfgr suggests it not the case.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 31, 2012 10:54 PM, “Seawater” wrote:My v drive has no cooling whatsoever and runs warm to the touch but not
hot enough for you to want to take your hand away, so I would guess 140. I
have a temp sensor on it that would sound an alarm at 210, and it has never
gone off. I will try to remember to take a temp reading with the IR
thermometer sometime when I run her for a while.I have motored all through the Caribbean heat and had to motor all the way
back from Maine this summer without any issues at all.
Walter
SV Madness
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It occurs to me you might be replacing the seawater hoses too. If that’s
the case, use the Shields or Trident marine water hoses – they are black
rubber with wire.Bob
On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Your engine is a plain automotive (actually truck or forklift engine) so
standard heater hoses are fine. You can use any of the ones from an
automotive supply or the heater hoses from a marine place, too.On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:53 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
It may be time to renew my coolant so at same time I may as well do hoses
too. My W58 takes 3/4 inch hose. Anyone have any good recommendations for
brand and price? (prefer shields, trident, etc.). and should these be
wire reinforced? My current hoses are plain automotive rubber with no
reinforcement–but have held up nicely for over 8 years now!!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Your engine is a plain automotive (actually truck or forklift engine) so
standard heater hoses are fine. You can use any of the ones from an
automotive supply or the heater hoses from a marine place, too.On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:53 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
It may be time to renew my coolant so at same time I may as well do hoses
too. My W58 takes 3/4 inch hose. Anyone have any good recommendations for
brand and price? (prefer shields, trident, etc.). and should these be
wire reinforced? My current hoses are plain automotive rubber with no
reinforcement–but have held up nicely for over 8 years now!!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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The other thing it can be is a loose belt for the alternator. It should
fluctuate cold and then be steady warm.Bob
On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 8:19 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:thanks for the input gents! I have never had a problem with the tach
before- I do have an external voltage reg, but tach always ran steady and
constant no matter what the RPM. This is the first time I noticed it
jumping up and down within the 200 rpm range. Again, the engine didn’t
seem to be running rough. Next day at 1200-1500 while warming my engine
for the oil change there was no fluctuation in rpm. guess I’ll have to
wait till next season!Rodd
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Nope, standard alternator. It’s done it since the boat was new to me.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 22, 2012 7:08 AM, “quent” wrote:Bob-
Do you have a voltage regulator external to the alternator? If so, some
of them delay charging to allow the engine to build up oil pressure, then
ranp up to full charge. My Balmar does this. It is a good thing.
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My tach doesn’t register until the belt gets warm. You may have a slipping
problem. Actually, it doesn’t register until the charge voltage gets over
about 13.3. Then it’s fine. Don’t ask me why. It’s been a thorn in my
side since I’ve bought the boat.Bob
On Sun, Oct 21, 2012 at 8:35 PM, wrote:
Quote:Unless you have a yanmar, your engine runs the tach off the alternator.
If your battery gets fully topped off, your regulator will turn off and
stop driving your tack for short periods. If you have no other load on
your batteries such as lights or an auto-pilot, the tach might turn off for
several seconds. With a light load, it might turn off for less than a
second and cause your tach to jump around. Hope this helps.Regards
Rich
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I can make it a point to be stop by. I’d say you still have good cooling
in the drive. Someone here has bypassed the cooler and his drive runs
warm, but not that warm. They can tell you the non-cooled temps.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 21, 2012 9:40 AM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Quote:Thanks Bob! Btw, I am back at Brewers Glen Cove for the winter. If you
plan to be in the neighborhood let me know and we can get together.My vdirve is still being water cooled.–at least to some degree!!
Rodd
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Yes. It can run much warmer , tho, in the event of bypassed cooling.
Hottest temp should ne forward end where gears and thrust bearing is.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 21, 2012 8:25 AM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Running for a while recently I decided to check the temperature of the
V-drive after several hours of motoring. It was 134degrees per an IR
thermometer reading. The reading was taken on the aft end of the Vdrive,
nerar where the jack shaft enters. Is this considered normal operating
temp?Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Depending on where the leak is, as long as its not the sealing surface, any
moderately competent welder can patch it. It’s just sheet steel. Easy
peasy. If sealing surface, a machine shop should be able to repair.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 19, 2012 7:57 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Fill bilge with oil, keep engine immersed… (Sorry Joe, couldn’t miss
that chance).Too bad, I had a block and sent it to the recycling after stripping the
key parts off it for selling. I would have gladly given you the pan if I
still had it.Pete
On 10/19/2012 5:43 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Well I ordered a new oil pan from Discount Marine after checking several
distributors across US about 3 weeks ago. Was told Oct 14th delivery from
Westerbeke since it was backordered.After badgering Westerbeke and them
refusing information they’re now hoping a Nov 20th delivery from “their
supplier’.Hey-engine is pulled-oil pan was patched by previous owner using
marine tex.
Anyone have a source for used? Other suggestions.May take oil pan to a
weld shop-see if it can be repaired..Are there substitutes for the oil pan?
I could be going South right now-stuck in the marina watching boats stop
here on their way South-[Little River,SC- Coquina Harbor].Not a Happy
sailor.
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Funny story. I changed my coolant last fall when I winterized. Ran engine
at dock for a few minutes to be sure it would run.Left dock and made it about 200 feet before alarm went off. Couldn’t
anchor in mid channel so threw up sails, deciding that I could sail to safe
anchorage in harbor, then get towed in.Got to safe anchorage and decided I could sail around the sound for the
day, then get towed in.Wind was great for going to Manhassett to see friend there. Sailed for the
day and up to anchor.Had a great time with friends, took 10 minutes the next morning to deal
with engine, and sailed home.Moral of the story: it’s a sailboat. The engine is called auxiliary for a
reason.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 17, 2012 9:11 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Glad I asked. Thanks.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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