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An airlock will result in overheating within 5 minutes. As far as the
engine knows, there’s no water in it (not true, but thats how it appears to
instruments and sensors). If it didn’t happen then, then when you leave
next time, make sure your sails are uncovered and your anchor’s ready!Or, just run the engine for 10-15 minutes and allow it to come up to temp.
Bob
On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have a Yanmar, but I’m wondering… I changed the antifreeze last
spring just before I stored the boat for the summer. Then I only ran it
for a few minutes to move to the haul-out slip. Seemed fine doing that.
How does one know one has an air lock in the engine’s cooling system.
What is the symptom?I’m not being terse. I’m being curious.
🙂
Quote:
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Easy, just pull both hoses and fill one until water comes out the other
then reconnect. Should take a bit more than a quart, maybe a quart and a
half.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 13, 2012 8:38 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:Thanks for the tips! It’s great to have this resource for a 32 year old
boat. I’ll have to check on where to fill the water heater.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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In an effort to be green, I installed the West Marine stuff, I forget the
name last year (serves me right for fixing things not broken, as there’s
plenty of broken stuff to deal with). Oh, wait, I did it because I had to
replace the water heater. Anyway, flush and fill the water heater
separately. Really important. If you have a compressor available, use it
to blow out the water heater after flushing.That’s all I have to say about that. It sounds far more complicated than
it really is.Bob
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 7:48 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:one note on the antifreeze to be used. Westerbeke recommends using the
Prestone Extended life coolant now. If you are replacing another type of
coolant, like the green coolant that we used to use, you need to be sure
and get all the old coolant out of the engine before adding the new
extended life. They were insistent that it is a bad idea to mix the two
types of coolant!So, best to drain coolant by pulling the hoses off the bottom of the main
heat exchanger, and also remove the engine block plug, which is on the
right side of the W 58, but the port side of the boat. then place a hose
and flush with fresh water. this will ensure you get all the old
antifreeze out. then fill witht the new extended life. then deal with the
air lock problem we all have!!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Except on the w58. Right to tight, left to loose.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 7:40 PM, “quent” wrote:Just a quick note: The petcock with the opening between the two handle
wings typically opens by screwing in, not out.
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Even better! I wish I had that.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 4:54 PM, “quent” wrote:Our W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent
air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shaped hose
between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow tank
in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water
heater.
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That’s an interesting question. I ended up having to remove the housing (2
bolts easy to get to) and filling the antifreeze into the water pump.
Basically, your engine should take 2 or a little more gallons of
antifreeze, and if you can’t get it in using the fill and run method, that
was the only way I could figure out how to do it. You may not have the
problem at all – I did. But if you do, you know how to deal with it.Bob
On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 11:26 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Bob: thanks for the tip. By the way, how do you get the air bubble out
of the thermostat housing?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Dan,
You can flush with any product that doesn’t harm aluminum. The drain plug
is on the starboard side of the engine just forward of the dip stick, I
think. Draining the engine isn’t all that complicated, but be sure you
drain the water heater (and fill it) separately or you’ll be with no hot
water and with an overheating engine. Also, make sure that the engine is
totally full, including the thermostat housing. Sadly, the way it’s
mounted, the thermostat is higher than the vent valve in the expansion
tank, meaning you can get an air bubble there and the associated
overheating (within minutes of starting the engine). How do I know?
Experience….Bob
On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 9:48 AM, kalinowski wrote:
I’d like to flush out the cooling system on my W 58. Has anyone done
this? What product did you use? Where are the drain plugs on the W 58
located?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Absolutely awesome, dude!
Bob
On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 4:00 PM, Silverheels wrote:
http://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising-grounds/isla-beata
You’ll recognize the boat. Extra photos at the bottom of the page.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Yes, you can, but you should tab the ends to the stringer.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 6, 2012 8:32 AM, “Miss Kathleen” wrote:Hi All,
The saloon floor around the mast felt kind of soft. On examination I
noticed that there was a gap between the bottom of the bunk and the saloon
floor.More access to the bilges has always been on my list, so I removed part of
the cabin sole in this area.There are two supports that run across the boat, but they do not have any
support from the hull.The question is – can one use the structural in-built glass fibre
stringers as a base to add vertical supports for the cross beams.Appreciate any comments
Regards
Dennis
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Hi Jack,
Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of items?
I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great ideas
for tracking them down and dealing with them.Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…
Bob
On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little while
and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed back in
May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it. My
electrical skills are very basic.
Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolk area
that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as we are
en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today and
Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so please bare
with me on replies.Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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Nope, not sure. Only 60 amps? I have a delving doing 65.
I guess my answer is never mind. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 27, 2012 8:18 AM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:Bob, let me verify they are still in the shed.
You sure that is the route you want to go? They are enormous and only
produce about 60 amps (in a perfect world). You could get something off
the shelf much smaller with internal regulation that would probably give
you years of service.Chuck
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Are you looking to get rid of one? Will it fit a w58 do you think?
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 27, 2012 6:44 AM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:I have two of the motorola units. I think they are externally regulated.
Not sure if I still have the regulator.Chuck
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Yes, you need sound proofing. I used the stuff from sailorssolutions.com.
it works great. Don’t forget to do sides and panel above engine hatch.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 21, 2012 2:12 PM, “joe shimkonis” wrote:I just removed the sound proofing insulation with vinyl/foam between 2
layers of fire retardant shiney outer layers.I guess with age the foam has
deteriorated and now scatters all over the engine compartment -little black
flakes.
Is there anything out there that is better for a replacement.Is the sound
proofing really that effective- would appreciate some thoughts and comments.
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Hi Pete,
There are people who collect them and believe it or not those who use them
– they’re old school, no instruments but depth and compass and of course a
sextant.Bob
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 6:19 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I have a couple of Knot Master logs from the PO on my boat. I am trying
to decide if in this day and age anyone actually ever uses these and if I
should just free up the space for something else.Thoughts?
Pete
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Hi Quent,
So far, not a one.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2012 9:35 AM, “quent” wrote:Hi Bob-
Wow! Nice job. I did open up that part of the cabin sole once early on
to replace the seacock but closed it up again. Might have to do that
again. Have you experienced any moisture issues with the compressor down
there?
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