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No, Tor, that’s how my keel was, too. I found out by blocking the boat mid
keel and watching horrified as it collapsed. Then it started leaking from
the inside out.Hang in slings while I grind back to dry glass in a deep ‘v’ and then lay
up again for the total length from the aft end of ballast to about one foot
ahead of the aft end of the keel.Two days later, back in water and never ever block mid keel. Fore and aft
is ok.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 7, 2012 4:48 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Hey Alan,I took a sort-of riverboat through the Erie Canal once. Cool trip, some
neat places to stop over. Lots of locks!OK, the crack-in-the-keel story. I only touched bottom once last winter,
edging up behind a reef in a small harbor in the DR. I was going all of
a knot or so when the boat stopped. No big deal, I thought. I backed off
and anchored in deeper water. It wasn’t until a couple of weeks later
that I was diving under the boat an noticed this 2′ crack running fore &
aft on the bottom of the keel, aft beneath the deep sump area of the
bilge. I inserted a knife blade into it and figured it was about 1/2″
deep. Damn! Well, there was nothing to do about it then & there, but
when I finally hauled the boat last week I had our local ‘glass master,
Jerry, ready with a grinder. While the boat hung in the slings he ground
out the damaged area, which wound up stretching another foot forward
than I’d been able to see underwater. Underneath the crack was a long,
1-1/2″ deep area of poorly laid mat and wads of hard putty. Someone –
Pearson or a PO – had done a halfassed job of patching under there,
creating a weak spot, a problem waiting for a little bump. I had simply
provided the bump.Now I have a deep, open gash down there, which I’ll let dry out on the
hard ’til October. Then Jerry will repair it – right, this time – and
it’ll be stronger than new. Life goeth on.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Oh, and besides the radical roach, I have two reef points in the mizzen.
That’s to Tor’s point.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 3, 2012 9:53 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Hmmmm. The added power for jib & jigger sailing is a good thing. I
suppose you can reef or douse that more powerful mizzen when it’s too
much and increases the weather helm.Anyone else have a fully-battened mizzen or thoughts about it?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s an interesting question. I suspect with fixed battens it would
because the shape of the sail is fixed except for twist. My battens float,
in that the aft ends are not fixed and therefore the sail’s draft is still
controlled by the outhaul. Also, I have a larger than normal roach. I
often use just it and the two head sails since I don’t gain much with the
main upwind in heavy air.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 3, 2012 9:17 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Hey Bob,Do you think your fully-battened mizzen sail increases the boat’s
weather helm compared to short-battened?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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On the other hand, the 424 was never considered an upwind boat. Sure, you
can do it, and you can cut down a tree with a pocket knife, too. I love the
fact that when everyone else is headed for harbor because of winds, Pelican
is kicking up her heels! Off wind, of course.On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have to figure on 120° too, Joe. I’d like to improve it some if I can.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Much as I try, I can only get to 95 degrees or so. I have new, full
battened main and mizzen, a 120% jib and a staysail. I fully feel that the
pointing or lack thereof is from the fact that the clew of the jib is so
high that I can’t get it even close to the shrouds. Great for spilling
watter, not so much for pointing.Bob
On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 8:25 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Joe,I don’t expect a new main will enable Silverheels to point much higher,
but I do expect it’ll give me more power to hold the point, more speed
to windward, as yours has done for you. It seems to me the tacking angle
is ultimately limited by the genoa’s sheeting angle, which is limited by
the upper main shrouds and spreaders.I looked into Hong Kong sails a few years ago and they seemed like an
excellent value. Has anyone bought Hong Kong sails?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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No, we’re all working on our boats and fully consumed with the process. You
mean to say you’re not?Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 30, 2012 7:41 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Has this group really been completely silent since the 19th, of have I
merely been excommunicated?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s a great idea!
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 9, 2012 10:55 PM, “hs” wrote:I found a simple way to monitor tank fills on Shay. Prior owner installed
access doors aft of the tanks for storage. It was a simple matter to route
a clear water line from a “T” fitting at the tank outlet up over the top of
each tank to the vent line. I now have level gauges visible at the rear of
each tank. You will have to install a simple shutoff valve at the top of
each gauge or the pump will tend to suck air. Did a similar gauge for the
bow tank visible inside on of the storage compartments. Works a treat.
Hank S.
Shay
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Hi Rich,
I routed my vents to the deep part of the bilge. There are three
advantages to this; 1, you can control the ultimate pressure the tanks feel
by adjusting the height of the vent; 2, salt water can’t get into the water
tanks; and 3, filling the tanks gives the bilge a fresh water wash down and
keeps it smelling sweet. I’m afraid that venting the tanks above the deck
will exceed the pressure the tanks can stand – 4.5 feet water column is
about 2.5 psi, although in reality it won’t fill above the deck fill at
4′. Remember in a hydraulic system the pressure at one point is felt
throughout the whole system.My vents are just high enough that at full heel water won’t slop out of the
vent – about 10″.Bob
On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 9:23 AM, wrote:
Quote:I hate having the tank vent into the bilge. If you overfill your water
tank it dumps water into the bilge.A buddy of mine has a Vagabond. His tank vents to tubes inside his
stanchions. A vent tube is run inside the stanchion and through the deck.
The vent hose is attached to the underside of the tube. I always thought
this was clever. If he overfills his water tank it spills on his deck and
can be seen when you fill the tank. I have to keep my ear close to the
tank fill and listen for the sound of the water. Its easy to miss the
sound the water makes when the tank reaches full. I’ve thought of doing
something similar to some of my stanchions. I guess its on the list of
things that aren’t really broken but should be fixed some day. I rarely
work on that list.Regards
Rich
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$I installed a GE Smartfilter next to the galley sink and drink from there.
You can drink from the tanks but it tastes plastic-y. With the filter, it
tastes better than bottled water. Downside is $40 filters twice a year.
Upside is it’s pressurized water from the tanks so no extra stuff is needed
for it.Bob
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 6:45 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Tor is right. I’m going to need more access to the tank to locate the leak
and then seal it.
I took some pictures of the inside of the tank through my single access
port in the aft section. Naturally I can see no crack in the tank wall in
this section. So now I have to remove the sliding bunk board and cut an
access hole in the other sections of the tank.
If you want to see why I don’t drink the water in these tanks, just use it
for cooking (after running it through a Brita filter for taste) and
cleaning, go to http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewWaterTankLeak.htmlRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 10:05 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
It sounds like you had a lovely winter! I’ll whip one up and let you
know
how it works.
Bob
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 10:03 AM, Silverheels
wrote:
Quote:Quote:And you’re right that the tanks need to be filled without leaking. That
one’s on my project list.I’d be very interested to see or hear about your instant rain catcher
design. I’m planning to make something along those lines before I set
sail again in fall. Even so, don’t count on it raining. I had only 2
sprinkles this whole winter!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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It sounds like you had a lovely winter! I’ll whip one up and let you know
how it works.Bob
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 10:03 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:And you’re right that the tanks need to be filled without leaking. That
one’s on my project list.I’d be very interested to see or hear about your instant rain catcher
design. I’m planning to make something along those lines before I set
sail again in fall. Even so, don’t count on it raining. I had only 2
sprinkles this whole winter!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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You’re right – I hadn’t thought along those lines because it’s usually only
me and I can keep track of it. For me, the ease of filling (not having to
rip the cabin apart) is worth it. I installed a SCAD tank monitor (but
have not attached the water tanks). Another project, but they will be
attached real soon now… I’ve also thought of putting a sight glass on
the tank inside the access ports I cut into the aft bulkheads, too. Once
again, project not started…On that subject, I have a design for a water collection system that stays
on the forward lifelines and can unfurl in a few seconds to allow me to
collect rain water into all three tanks. It will mean dousing the
staysail, but that’s easy and quick.Bob
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 9:52 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob,Freshwater tank levels probably don’t matter much in the ICW, but
they’ll matter to you as you start making longer passages and hanging
out in places with no freshwater, especially if you have crew on board
consuming, too. Even with a watermaker you have to watch it so that you
always have the second tank full and in reserve (for when the watermaker
breaks). A simple sight gauge might do the trick.Just another opinion.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
I am being terse. I don’t have much to say.
🙂
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It’s bolted. Why do I need to check the level? I use one tank at a time
until it’s empty. Usually when I’m in the shower and all soaped up.The vent height limits the pressure in the tank.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 7, 2012 8:00 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:But can you quickly open that steel plate to check the water level, or
is it bolted and bedded down?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s why I replaced mine with a steel plate and ran the vent into the
bilge – I can control the pressure from filling by the height of the vent.Bob
On Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 7:36 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Yeah, this lucky dog has not 1 but 3 leaky inspection ports per tank. I
have to open one whenever I fill up, watch the water level, and stop
filling an inch or so below the tank tops. If (whenever) I screw that
up, water overflows onto the cabin sole. I replaced the O-rings in all
those Beckson ports, but it didn’t help. They’re not designed to hold
water pressure. Bad fitting choice, Mr. Pearson.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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You’re a luck dog. I had one leaky inspection port on my tanks. I
replaced them with SS plates. Anyway, the tanks are fiberglassed to the
hull and sole. They’re not particularly strong, but I’ve been filling mine
using the vent as an overflow (moved them to the bilge – Pearson apparently
liked the idea of venting tanks into the odd dead space resulting in wet
underwear and shoes in my case). So if you can get access to the tank by
removing the bed base and the front boards you may be able to fix the tank
from the outside. If the leak is on the hull side, you have a problem
because of the tabbing.Bob
On Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,I’ve cleaned my port & starboard water tanks several times. Each has 3
inspection ports on the top. (You might have to pull out the plywood
bunk extension pieces to get to all of them.) Through those I can pretty
much reach all of the tank interior. With a flashlight and maybe a hand
mirror you might be able to find the leak and then seal it.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s the stuff or the 9/16″ stuff. I used the 1/2″ which seems to work
quite well.Bob
On Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Anyone know if this is the right hatch gasket material for the original
424 hatches?:1/2″ x 9 ft Gasket for Gray molded hatches / West Marine #4502530
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catal
ogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=4502530&langId=-1Someone on this forum once wrote that gasket material is 7/16″, but I
haven’t seen that anywhere online so far. Mine seems to measure 1/2″ and
that’s what West Marine sells.Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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