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I hope to see you again, too! One of these years, I’m having my great
adventure part deux. Maybe even this year! For now, I’m in Stamford, CT
working on boats.Bob
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 1:00 PM, cstewart wrote:
Thanks Bob. I was wondering where you’ve been since I saw you in Beaufort.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Go to McMaster-Carr and get the 3/8″ x 3/8″ rubber gasket material. Fits
in, seals great, lasts a lifetime.It’s the red stuff, not the black stuff.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 10:22 AM, cstewart wrote:
I’m sorry, I wasn’t clear about which gasket. I was referring to the
gasket that sits in the groove in the window lid, and presses against the
lip on the imbedded frame. I didn’t replace the glass.
My boat lived in fresh water with the PO it’s first 30 years (great Lakes)
and I brought her under the George Washington bridge in NY on August 8,
2011 and she now resides in the Gulf of Mexico in Alabama (welcome to UV,
heat, salt, humidity and hurricanes). The point to that is that I have very
little wear from salt corrosion. That’s the good news, but I still suffer
from “old boat syndrome”. My rubber is hard from old age. My cast aluminum
ports seem to be in pretty good shape, considering. Any ideas on replacing
the lid gaskets?
Thanks,
Charlie. Hull 54
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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If I remember correctly, it’s about 1/4″ fiberglass and 3/8″ plywood.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 24, 2012 8:45 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:Those of you that have replaced their opening ports, how thick is the
cabin trunk? I’ve rebuilt a set of original Beckson’s from another owner
(powder coated and look better than new) and now want to replace the
mounting hardware when I install them. I’m on the mainland and the boat’s
in Hawai’i. It would be easier to find the right length of SS fasteners
here and have them in hand when I return.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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No reason at all, and probably the easiest solution.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 18, 2012 11:44 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Quote:I am confused. Why can’t an automotive spin-on adapter replace the
filter? That is what I had on my W58. Look for Artic Cool brand adapters
they come in all thread sizes and offer both straight out and rigjt angle
versions of both the adapters and the filter holders.Pete
Sent from my Android phone with a spell checker programmed to entertain
you.
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Subject: Re: Remote Oil Filter ConversionPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
It looked to me as if the block the filter is screwed into is a remote
mount bolted to the engine. I’ve done remote filters on other engines and
if I had the time, I’d unbolt and see what happens. Just not while the
engine is running…Bob
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 6:05 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Hmm… of course now I just put the housing back on and I can’t see exactly
what you’re talking about. but yes. There are hoses from the oil cooler to
the oil filter.
You can sort of see that here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5938042863/I get the gist of what you’re saying, maybe that filter assembly can be
moved…-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 5:00 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I’ve been looking at my W58 and if I’m correct, the oil filter is
ALREADY a
remote filter – there are two hoses to it, which on a filter means one’s
a
goesinta, and the other is a goesouta. Other W58s used as generator
motors
have filters on the other side of the engine that are vertical. I’ll
have
to look more carefully or if anyone has taken it apart, disabuse me of my
idea…Bob
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 3:35 PM, Peaboy Walters <
wrote:
When you pull the oil filter on the W58 there is really no easy way to
get
a catch basin under it and being mounted horizontally means a mess is
about
to happen if you’re not super carefiul.
Has anyone converted their W58 to have a remote oil filter? I see kits
out
there for other engines, was thinking this might be a nice upgrade if
its
relatively cheap.
In other news we’re getting the boat ready to be left in Banderas Bay
for
the summer and go back to the states and buy and old RV and play around
in
it for the summer. We love a good fixer up! 😉
-patrick
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEA
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I’ve been looking at my W58 and if I’m correct, the oil filter is ALREADY a
remote filter – there are two hoses to it, which on a filter means one’s a
goesinta, and the other is a goesouta. Other W58s used as generator motors
have filters on the other side of the engine that are vertical. I’ll have
to look more carefully or if anyone has taken it apart, disabuse me of my
idea…Bob
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 3:35 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
When you pull the oil filter on the W58 there is really no easy way to get
a catch basin under it and being mounted horizontally means a mess is about
to happen if you’re not super carefiul.Has anyone converted their W58 to have a remote oil filter? I see kits out
there for other engines, was thinking this might be a nice upgrade if its
relatively cheap.In other news we’re getting the boat ready to be left in Banderas Bay for
the summer and go back to the states and buy and old RV and play around in
it for the summer. We love a good fixer up! 😉-patrick
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEA
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I was all over the VSD pumps, but have had two myself, had customers with
one or more fail. Especially the leak detection ones. I went back to a
simple pump and accumulator system.The fancy pumps are a great idea but are not ready for prime time.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jun 10, 2012 11:48 PM, “Peaboy Walters” wrote:Our pressurized water system is driven by a Jabsco Sensor Max VSD
31750 which draws from the tanks through an American Plumber W38-PRA
(W.5CB) filter which can have one of several filters installed designed to
remove sediment and chlorine or tiny little bacteria as needed.I think the Cold water side could benefit from an accumulator tank because
the pressure is stabstantially higher on the HOT side which goes through
the hot water heater. I don’t even know when we last turned that on, but I
think it’s tank acts like an accumulator. That said, the pressure isn’t bad
on the cold sider, it’s just better on the hot.Our old (original?) pump was so loud we were embarrased by it. This one is
great!
I should mention we elimintated the forward sink… saw no need for it!Plumbing overview: http://deepplaya.com/?p=160
Pics of the V-berth Modifications:
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=26558453@N03&q=v-berth10 Months off the dock and all of these things have been worth it!
-patrick
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 9:00 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Any opinions on these new style FW pumps such as FLo-Jet variable sensor
units? Would 4.0 or 5.0 gpm be necessary for a galley sink and 2 heads?Thanks- I need to replace an aging Jabsco diaphragm style unit.
Rodd Leeds
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I met Jack and Pat in Ft. Pierce, FL two years ago just before they left
for Panama and Australia. They were gracious, knowledgable, and about as
nice as nice can be. They had some equipment on board I’d like to
duplicate.I wish you guys all the best with a lovely boat!
Bob
On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 12:14 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Quote:You’ve got a great boat there, one many of us have looked to for guidance
in our refits and modifications. Welcome to the P424 Family!-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEAOn Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:24 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob & Lyn,That guestbook sometimes (but not always) notifies me by email when
someone makes a new entry. This time it did, which is why I saw yours so
quickly. As for joining the P424 group/forum, I did it too long ago to
recall exactly how. If you have questions or problems with it, contact
.We all know or know about the Tyler’s and Whoosh, having followed their
sail west via occasional email updates from them and mutual friends.
Congratulations on getting a beautiful 424!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Use a heat gun to help the process.
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:09 AM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
They will pry out with a stiff 1″ putty knife and a hammer, or even better
a Fein Multimaster with the blade attachment. You will markup the gel coat
around the prt a bit, but nothing you can’t clean and polish out if your
even a little careful (and I am ussually not so careful).You will then need to clean up all the silicone under there…
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 7:11 AM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Rather than spring for the bling of Newfound Metals ports, I procured a
set of four opening ports from another owner. I had them sandblasted,trim
rings annealed to make them true, and powder coated. I replaced the
lenses
with Lexan AB, a highly scratch and UV resistant plastic. They look
better than new for a total of $300.Now I have to pull the old ones out and install the rebuilt units. Does
anyone have any tips on getting the old ports out with minimal damage to
boat and port? I thought I’d ask before I get out the hammer. By theway,
I’ll soon have some old ones to pass on if anyone is interested.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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John, I don’t think ergonomic was a word in 1978…
I can only assume that Pearson designed the boat for someone 5′ 9″ or so
because I’m perfectly comfortable wherever I am – although I find the
cockpit seats a little too deep, but generally speaking, I’m sitting on the
coaming anyway. When I put the cockpit cushions down for company, I use a
few WM throwable cushions as back rests and it’s totally comfortable. I
can sleep on the cockpit seats quite comfortably.I’ve found the settees need the back cushions removed for sleeping unless I
open them to the mast. But then I need to figure out what to do with 7
oddly shaped cushions so I don’t do it.All my interior cushions are 4 inch thick of the hardest foam available and
that’s my preference. Comfort is a personal thing so what works for me may
not for others.Bob
On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 11:03 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Patrick,
Like Dan, I have BottomSiders for cushions in the cockpit. They are a
great improvement over the vinyl covered, closed cell foam cushions that
came with the boat. The cockpit benches are too narrow for me or any one
who crews for me to sleep comfortably. I view that as a good thing. The
main ergonomic problem I have with the cockpit is the height of the
coamings. I get very little back support as the top of the coaming comes
about my mid back. They are also nearly vertical, which is not that
comfortable. My solution are the bench seat cushions sold at the Boat
Shows. They have racheted back that provides support full back support at
several angles. These are not the cheap ones WM sells, but I don’t
remember the make. I had two of them in the cockpit 24×7 for 15 years
before I replaced them in the last 2 years. The cushions were still fine,
but the ratchets had broken.As far as the cabin cushions go, I replaced mine with new foam and covers
about 8 years ago. I went with 5″ foam, which still leaves another inch
below the back rests. I wish I had gone with 6″ foam as Rich did. I also
wish I had gone with a slightly firmer foam. I sit mostly on the starboard
side and that cushion gets most of the wear and tear. Fortunately the
cushions are symmetrical and are covered by an Ultra-Suede-like product on
the tops and bottoms. Every month or so I switch them.I agree the settees are not deep enough for comfortable lounging, but I am
normally sitting on a settee only when working on the computer or eating
they and they are OK for that use.
If and when I replace these cushions I will go with firmer 6″ latex foam
and have the inside edge of the cushion raised with bunting or extra foam.
That will provide additional support for the thighs when lounging. I would
also add another knotch to allow the settee to be fixed inboard 1 or 2
inches for some extra depth. I would slide them to the normal outboard
position when sitting at the table.When using the settees for berths (only when I have crew), I put down one
of those mattress toppers sold at Walmart. People who have crewed for me
find them very comfortable. At these times the settees bunk boards are
pulled fully in board, which still leaves enough room for people pass
between the port settee and the table to get to the forward cabin. The
only problem with the mattress toppers is what to do with them when the
settees are not being used for berths. I stuff mine in those Space Bags
and compress them with the vacuum cleaner and store them on top of the
forward water tank.So I agree, Pearson did a poor job of ergonomically designing the settees
and the cockpit benches, but there are workarounds I can live with.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 23, 2012 at 9:04 AM, Paul Lefebvre <
wrote:
Quote:RichLots of memory foam suppliers out there. One is ikea that has several
thicknesses, including a 5 1/2″ king size for $300.http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30139835/#/80139828
Ikea also carries latex mattresses if you want to go that route.
Paul
Quote:Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 12:45:48 +0000Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I do bottom cleaning and zinc replacement for about 40 boats (and
growing). The Martyr zincs are the cheapest, Campo much better, and I have
never heard of the Godfrey but I’ll go with Rich’s assessment. Properly
installed on a boat not suffering from ground currents, the Martyr can last
for a year.Here’s what I’ve found over the years: The best protection for your boat
if you stay mostly in a marina is a ground isolator. Vessels I work on
that have one get a year or more from their zincs in marinas known for
eating them. I’ve never had one of my (ones I own or have placed) spin
off. They must be put on properly which most divers don’t do. When they
need replacing there’s nearly no zinc left and I can pry the screws out by
hand. But never slipped. The shaft has to be absolutely clean – no
remnants of paint or barnacles. I carry a wire brush and some very
aggressive scrubby pads just for cleaning the shaft. Some zincs need to be
tapped into place and re-tightened. So I take a hammer with me as well.Sadly, I have found many diving services that are not as particular as they
should be. That’s the second problem I’ve found with zincs falling off and
so forth.A ground isolator costs about $300 and if you’re handy, you can put one in
in about an hour. If not, at least you won’t electrocute yourself. Unless
you have a major ground fault. But I digress. The isolator goes on the
ground line (typically green) just inside of the power inlet socket, as
close as possible, even before the first breaker if you have one before the
main panel (which you would if you’ve rewired your boat to ABYC standards
recently).Now you know as much as I do about zinc installation and longevity.
Bob
On Mon, May 21, 2012 at 9:04 AM, wrote:
Quote:Jack,
I use a Godfrey zinc. One zinc will last a full season. I’ve never lost
one. The cheaper zincs will spin-off. The godfrey zinc has a brass collar
inside it that doesn’t get eaten. This prevents the thing from loosening
and spinning off. They are available from most prop shops or online. The
list price for a streamlined 1.5″ zinc is $61.65. You should be able to
find a discount. This is a lot more expensive than the cheaper zincs but
you only need one and they are more reliable. If you use a cheaper zinc,
put two on. At that, I don’t know if they will last longer than 6 months.Regards
Rich
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Two 1-1/2 inch zincs.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 17, 2012 11:13 AM, “Jack P Clarke” wrote:Hi everyone,
I need some pointers in what anodes to put on the shaft etc. for salt
water. I am on Lake Ontario and in the next two to three weeks will be
going out the St. Lawrence, through the Maritimes, New England and points
south after that.
I have a Max prop and it has a cone shaped anode on the hub. How many on
the shaft?Thanks
Jack
Xanadu
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I have two raw water outlets, too, except one is the bilge pump. There
should be only one from the engine unless you have an oddball muffler.
There could be a bypass if you do. It would run water in excess of what’s
needed to cool the exhaust.Bob
On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:14 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Related question. No problem, but I’m trying to understand my cooling
system. I have two raw water outlets on my transom. Occasionally, when
the engine is under load, I have raw water ejected from both outlets. No
overheating problems, but I’m trying to understand this system. Is anyone
else’s boat rigged the same (W 58).Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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I don’t remember where you are just now, but check out Sailorman in Ft.
Lauderdale or the place in St. Augustine. Also, there is a marine
consignment shop in WA which I’ve used and one in Newport, RI I’ve been
to. That’s probably the best source for stoves.Bob
On Fri, May 11, 2012 at 9:11 AM, Silverheels wrote:
My original HilleRange galley stove has been dying a slow death this
winter. First the oven’s burner feed tube started leaking propane, then
the door wouldn’t close properly. The aft stove top burner never did
work and now one of the others has started burning a sooty yellow
instead of blue. So I’m down to a very large single-burner stove. I
really don’t want to spring for a new one right now, but I do need one
in decent condition that works. Anyone have an extra stove taking up
space in the garage, maybe left over after your wife made you put in a
new one? I don’t care what brand, 2-burner or 3, but it has to be 21″
wide.Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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