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Rich, you only have a main mast if I remember correctly…
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 30, 2012 11:50 PM, wrote:Quote:Mine is on the main mast just above the spreaders. I don’t personally
think long range is important so getting it up high shouldn’t be a
priority. I usually use shorter ranges. Most collisions occur within less
than a half mile 😉Rich
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I’m a single hander and have been for most of my 30 years of sailing
regularly. When I started sailing alone I dreamt of a 40 odd foot split
rig as the best vessel for single handing.A yawl’s sail plan is great for anchoring but not for sailing so much. The
mizzen is more or less pointless. A schooner is a definite off-the-wind
boat. Also, the sails are so close in size that there’s no difference in
their management. If one’s hard, they’re both hard.But a ketch has the best of both worlds. The mizzen is powerful and easily
managed. A ketch under full sail can sail off wind and up to a fair point,
can simply be hove to, and is still a pretty boat.The P424 is a nearly perfect platform for us – it’s dead stupid simple,
relatively stable, built like a brick outhouse, sails relatively well with
a pretty seakindly motion, and has a very flexible sail plan.It can take some serious punishment with aplomb and as far as I know has
always gotten us home. What more can you ask? Sure, there are more well
appointed boats, heavier boats, much more expensive boats, and much harder
to manage boats.But in my humble, yet considered opinion, the 424 is a perfect balance of
cost, strength, and ease of management.That’s just me, however.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 26, 2012 at 5:08 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I was talking to Cindy on Island Bound about the same thing the other day
in Staniel. What in our personality makeup caused us to be 424 owners AND
single handers…. I am starting to worry about that too….. I guess there
is still time to reverse the trend.
Any other 424 single handers out there…. come now
a— On Mon, 3/26/12, Silverheels wrote:
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Here’s what’s probably wrong if your impeller is ok:
Take the endcaps off the heat exchanger and remove the old impeller blades
that infamously lodge in them. Also – run a coat hanger or other stiff
wire through as many of the tubes you can. If you’ve been replacing zincs
as religiously as everyone else, there is gobs of zinc oxide pasted all
over the tubes. The engine won’t run hot until at least 50% of the tubes
are plugged.It only takes about 10-30 minutes to do the job.
Bob
On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 5:43 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
This originally wasn’t a temperature problem it was a white smoke
issue even 45 minutes after starting the engine in 70F temperatures.
After going around for 20 minutes to put out fenders, etc., at about
1000RPM I picked it back up to 1400 and the engine temp went up over
180F and it NEVER does that.I topped up the coolant in the port side expansion tank, bled the
system (it had no air) and ran the engine in gear at the dock up to
about 1200RPMs which was all I was willing to try at the dock. I still
thought the water was a little anemic so I’m going to check the raw
water pump after the engine cools down again, but the white smoke was
gone. We’ll give this another run in the morning and see what happens
since that was our original scenario. Of course we also hadn’t had the
engine on for probably 2 weeks as well, but I can’t wait that long…Anyway, the dock time is letting us also do a washdown, top up the
batteries and do an equalization and tonight I’m going to clean the
carb in the outboard which I think is stuck open… Ain’t cruising
fun! 😉Thanks a lot everyone and I’ll keep you posted.
-PatrickOn 3/22/12, kalinowski wrote:
Aloha Patrick: I went through all of the overheating headache last year.
What drove me crazy was the erratic nature of the problem. I completely
rebuilt the fresh and raw cooling systems (new pumps, impeller, belts,
gauge, sensor, cleaned heat exchanger, new hoses, etc.). I finallypulled
the thermostat out and ran the engine without it to try to isolate the
problem. This worked. I believe Jamestown Distributors sent me thewrong
thermostat. Moral: erratic temps could be caused by the thermostat.
It’s
easy to check.
Bon Chance
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I wish I was there! Maybe next year…
Bob
On Mon, Mar 19, 2012 at 7:45 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Hey Tor
Thanks for the pics…. Lots of 424 wandering around the Bahamas this
year.
Any Idea where Island Bound is now?
I am up at Black Point, trying to work my way to the Abacos….
What’s your plan?
Alan— On Sun, 3/18/12, Silverheels wrote:
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I use yachtlights.com or drled.com. I got the Edison bulbs for the salon
from the former and they’re great. Really light up the area.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 18, 2012 12:19 PM, “Rick Dugger” wrote:I could not find the LED replacements available at Academy Sports… can
you provide their description or Brand name to help search or a link to
that item’s page? thanks…
Rick
EclipseMar 16, 2012 at 7:02 PM, cstewart wrote:
Sorry, that’s not the one I have. I have the reading lamps that were
mounted above the aft bunk. The bulb looks like a projector bulb and
probably uses the same amps. They are swivil also, but I never saw the
originals that would have been in the main salon. My PO had already
replaced them I guess. BTW, Academy Sports has, in their boatingsection,
LED fixtures that are plug and play replacements for the small lamps
that I
am refering to over the aft bunk. They are $12 ea., have 12 LEDs, and
are
in a white fixture with switch.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage tolose
sight of the shore."
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If the hardware is still in good condition, take a half gallon clorox
bottle and leave it out in the sun for a month or so, cut the ends off,
mount the hardware and hey! Presto! a new fixture….Bob
On Fri, Mar 16, 2012 at 2:24 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
If there are any extras we could use 1 as well. The dog took one out a
few years ago.– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178Seawater wrote, On 3/16/12 1:12 PM:
Yes, the reading lamps that have a plastic 4″ dia plastic cylinder about
7″ long covering the 12 home-style edison lightbulbs.
Here is a link to a photo that I think is publicly viewable
https://picasaweb.google.com/**110117171543003531139/**
Madness02#5720558572311887154Thanks for responding, I look forward to hearing from you.
Walter
SV Madness
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I have a small light that is on when the running lights are on. It works
pretty well. During the day, I actually have to shield my eyes to see
inside.Bob
On Fri, Mar 16, 2012 at 1:28 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:A flashlight works very well…________________________________
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I have a small light that is on when the running lights are on. It works
pretty well. During the day, I actually have to shield my eyes to see
inside.Bob
On Fri, Mar 16, 2012 at 1:28 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:A flashlight works very well…________________________________
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My glass isn’t glass, it’s acrylic so that I just used plastic polish.
Hey, presto! Clear again.Bob
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 5:04 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Aloha Bob: when you said that you just polished it and rebedded it, did
you mean that you polished the glass? If this is possible, what did you
use and how did you do it?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Not true – you can do it one-armed. Also, you can remove the plywood
between the port lazarette and work that way. But the six screws remove
the measuring unit and a new one will have the same pattern. There is only
one wire to the unit (the tank should be grounded already).Easy peasy. Although I haven’t done mine yet. I just polished and
rebedded my sight glass and called it good.Bob
On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 2:50 PM, kalinowski wrote:
The inside ring that holds the glass in the peep port appears to be brass.
I’m letting it soak in PB Blaster to see if I can break it loose.This is indeed a silly way to check the fuel level. However, installing a
new fuel sender unit without pulling the engine and tank looks like it
would require a boneless 2 foot midget. Not many of these running O’ahu.
Of course, the deck peep hole is only large enough for one arm at a time.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Bob Fine
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You should be able to put two lengths of 4 x 4’s under the mounts for it to
sit on.Bob
On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 4:00 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
When I pull this giant engine and move it forward to remove the fuel tank,
can I rest it on it’s belly (oil pan) or do I need to block under the
engine mounts to prevent tragedy?
-Adam
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They’re made of aluminum. Zinc chromate is the primer of choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 27, 2012 3:34 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:I don’t want to pull the sticks right now. My more immediate problem is
some paint bubbling around the winches on the mizzen. I assume I’ll have
to sand down to bare metal, apply some type of primer and then top coat.
What metal are the masts made of? Primer suggestions?Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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I’ve made that mistake. It isn’t the same…
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 17, 2012 3:58 PM, “Peaboy Walters” wrote:I did see a 15amp twist lock which could be wired to a cord. I didn’t
think the tong (?) or pin pattern was the same circumference as the
30amp. Maybe I was wrong though.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 17, 2012, at 12:33, “”
wrote:My boat has a 30A 115v make receptacle for shore power. If you add a
second receptacle and feed power through it, the make plug will be hot.
This is a bad idea and must violate some codes.I made a 15A shore power adapter cord many years ago using a cheap
extension cord and a plug purchased at the hardware store. It wasn’t
expensive. You don’t really need a fancy marine plug for this.Quote:I use an EU-2000 on my boat. It works pretty well.Rich
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Yes, but why not an adapter and regular extension cord? Adapter like $40
and you should have one anyway.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 17, 2012 2:17 PM, “Peaboy Walters” wrote:Hey guys, quick question. I bought a Honda Eu20i here in Mexico. It’s
the same as the eu2000i (non-companion) so I need to connect a
standard three prong cord to boat’s shore power. I was going to make a
cord, but the twist locks from Marinco are crazy expensive.Could I wire in a standard 20amp out to the back of the shore power
inlet instead? Mg thought is to have this outlet live inside the
lazarette.Quick replies get extra points, I’m at home depot. 😉
Thanks!
-pSent from my iPhone
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+1 for Rich as well. 40 HP is too little, and a dunked engine is not a good
investment.Here’s what I have to say about beta vs. Yanmar: beta marine engines are
minors engines with marinized cooling systems. You can get replacement
parts everywhere, not just beta dealers. Yanmar parts are universally
expensive.Just my two cents.
Bob
