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I am, but not near you, I think.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 4, 2011 4:53 PM, “quent” wrote:You are right, a quart is a lot of gelcoat. Spectrum’s minimum purchase.
Didn’t get to it before winter. Will experiment this spring based on somestuff I’ve read, unless I can find someone cheap and good at gelcoat.
Open to suggestions….
Quent_______________________________________________
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You can get the hydrophilic cement that ferro-cement boats are made of – it
gets harder with age in salt water, and as you know boats are made from it.
Should do the trick even without the FRP layers.On Mon, Jan 31, 2011 at 10:01 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:If you decide to fill the pit with cement, I recommend that you use a
special
cement that does not react to sea water. I also suggest that you clean the
interior well before adding the cement and that you use a light weight
cement
(an oxymoron to be sure) light weight cement contains no sand or gravel,
rather
it is made with vermiculite or a similar light weight filler and air. A
competent cement contractor should show you the compression factors for
various
mixtures. Once the cement is cured, be sure you add one or two layers of
FRP and
then seal the edges very well with 5200 or similar. You do not want water
to
seep down between the hull and the cement.________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If you have a velvet glide or hurth transmission then you don’t need a
brake. They can spin without damage. I use the spin to generate electricity.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 29, 2011 7:06 AM, “Joe Shimkonis” wrote:I have no idea how good the original shaft brake system worked or if all
the components can still be purchased.Since I converted from a folding prop
back to a fixed,I need a shaft brake.The only option I ve found is the
system made by PYI and it’s about $700. any advice?Sent from my iPad
On Jan 28, 2011, at 21:57, Pete Dubler wrote:
Thanks!
On 1/28/2011 4:50 PM, Alan wrote:
Give me a day or 2 to find it. There is an industrial supplier here in
Rochester. The cylinder make is a BIMBA….. just can’t remember the
model… I am thinking is was around 20 bucks,,, but then again I am
suffering from CRS.Quote:Quote:Quote:I’ll get back to you…..
Alan— On Fri, 1/28/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If it’s aft, it might be the base for the autopilot.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 25, 2011 7:03 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Not sure where exactly in the port lazarette you are referring to, but in
my
port lazarette, there is a Raritan water heater forward of the opening
(tucked away) on a platform. There is an Espar heater on a shelf glassed
centrally in the locker but against the hull and up high almoat to thetop.
On the aft inboard wall of the locker is the coolant expansion tank which
is
just aft of the opening into the lazarette.
All of that and I can still get all the way inside there!
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 1:53 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:As I spend more time on my boat and get into the cracks and crevasses
I’ve
found another mystery. The port lazarette has what looks like 4 bolts
mounted with the heads on the inside of a piece of wood that is glassedin
just below the rim. Something was obviously mounted there on the exposed
“studs”. I’m just curious what was mounted in there if it is originalwith
the boat.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Mine, too. How long does your alarm sound after start up?
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 25, 2011 5:34 PM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Quote:40-50# same for me.Rodd
Original Message
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There’s a little more than that – first, the full extension of the drive
must be more than the fixed rudder stops and the adjustment at installation
must be less than the fixed rudder stocks.When it’s disengaged you don’t want to be pulling or pushing the drive past
its stops and when it’s engaged, you don’t want it slamming the fixed
stops.I’ve seen more of these units destroyed in one or the other of these ways.
Bob
On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 1:12 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Mark, I have a Raymarine type two linear drive. The unit is off for a
rudder repair. It is a pretty straightforward installation, a mounting
surface with a backging plate at the stern end of the stbd cockpit locker is
where the foot is attached. The other end is terminated on a steering arm
attached to the rudder stock. Not much more to it than that.Chuck
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Mark,
It’s what I have on my 424. I installed it myself. Has worked flawlessly
with the C-80, but can work with any NMEA chart plotter.Bob
On Mon, Jan 24, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Mark Oppe wrote:
does anyone have experience of fitting a direct to steering autohelm on a
ketch rigged 424. I have a Navco belt to wheel driven autohelm which does
not seem up to the job.Thanks for your help.
Mark on Mary Murray
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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The best idea, sadly, is to match the color yourself. Get a can of white
gelcoat, a couple of Preval sprayers, some acetone and ancillary rags and so
forth. Gloves are a nice addition, too.Prepare the transom by wet sanding with 220 grit and cleaning with water,
then acetone.When you purchase gelcoat, make sure you use the kind that needs air to
cure. There are two types.Get a tint kit from West – use the black or brown tint and very little of
it. I use a toothpick to color several ounces of the stuff. Start with
just the end of the toothpick dipped in the color you choose. Mix
thoroughly, and using your finger (in a glove) make a test patch on a very
clean (with acetone) spot of the hull. I often start with a dab of pure
white to be sure I’m going with the right color.If you start with brown tint and decide you want black, start with a new
mix. Don’t try to change the color with tint. You can make brown, or a
darker brown, but never black doing that. Gelcoat is fairly cheap, so don’t
worry about wasting it.Once you’ve decided whether your hull is greyish or brownish (off white or
cream) then mix a very small amount of tint. Very small. Tiny. Much
smaller than you imagine you’ll need. You’ll never go lighter without using
a lot of white gelcoat.Every time you add some tint, mix well. Then using your finger again, put a
dab near the first dab to measure both how close you’re coming to the color
you want and how far from pure white you are.When you’ve gotten a color you like, cap your mix. You’ll add hardener
later.Tape the transom. Use newspaper to protect from overspray. Tape it at
seams, like where the topsides meet the transom and the cap rail meets. Try
not to put a mask in the middle anywhere.Now comes the touchy part. Put an ounce or so of your mix into the Preval
container. Add one ounce or so of acetone as thinner and mix thoroughly.
Don’t shake, but swish. If the mixture isn’t thin (just a but thicker than
water), add some more acetone.When it seems good, add the proper amount of catalyst. For an ounce of
gelcoat, you need about a cc of catalyst – or about 20-25 drops. Then swish
again. Insert the Preval power head and spray like you would with a Krylon
sprayer. Cover the whole transom and wait about 15 minutes and spray
another light coat. You’ll need to put 4-6 light coats. I often will go as
high as 10 coats to build the thickness up. Don’t spray thick coats.Let the stuff dry (kick, harden, whatever you call it) so that you can wet
sand it with progressively finer paper. I start with 220, then 400, then
800, then 1200, then 2000 grit. Finally compound and wax. Make sure you
use a sanding block so you don’t gouge the gelcoat.It’s surprisingly easy. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Bob
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 9:01 AM, allantereshko <
> wrote:I am renaming boat and need to cover old painted name on transom. Not
ready to paint whole boat, just transom. Any suggestions on matching shade
of white by using original shade of gelcoat as a match._______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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The best idea, sadly, is to match the color yourself. Get a can of white
gelcoat, a couple of Preval sprayers, some acetone and ancillary rags and so
forth. Gloves are a nice addition, too.Prepare the transom by wet sanding with 220 grit and cleaning with water,
then acetone.When you purchase gelcoat, make sure you use the kind that needs air to
cure. There are two types.Get a tint kit from West – use the black or brown tint and very little of
it. I use a toothpick to color several ounces of the stuff. Start with
just the end of the toothpick dipped in the color you choose. Mix
thoroughly, and using your finger (in a glove) make a test patch on a very
clean (with acetone) spot of the hull. I often start with a dab of pure
white to be sure I’m going with the right color.If you start with brown tint and decide you want black, start with a new
mix. Don’t try to change the color with tint. You can make brown, or a
darker brown, but never black doing that. Gelcoat is fairly cheap, so don’t
worry about wasting it.Once you’ve decided whether your hull is greyish or brownish (off white or
cream) then mix a very small amount of tint. Very small. Tiny. Much
smaller than you imagine you’ll need. You’ll never go lighter without using
a lot of white gelcoat.Every time you add some tint, mix well. Then using your finger again, put a
dab near the first dab to measure both how close you’re coming to the color
you want and how far from pure white you are.When you’ve gotten a color you like, cap your mix. You’ll add hardener
later.Tape the transom. Use newspaper to protect from overspray. Tape it at
seams, like where the topsides meet the transom and the cap rail meets. Try
not to put a mask in the middle anywhere.Now comes the touchy part. Put an ounce or so of your mix into the Preval
container. Add one ounce or so of acetone as thinner and mix thoroughly.
Don’t shake, but swish. If the mixture isn’t thin (just a but thicker than
water), add some more acetone.When it seems good, add the proper amount of catalyst. For an ounce of
gelcoat, you need about a cc of catalyst – or about 20-25 drops. Then swish
again. Insert the Preval power head and spray like you would with a Krylon
sprayer. Cover the whole transom and wait about 15 minutes and spray
another light coat. You’ll need to put 4-6 light coats. I often will go as
high as 10 coats to build the thickness up. Don’t spray thick coats.Let the stuff dry (kick, harden, whatever you call it) so that you can wet
sand it with progressively finer paper. I start with 220, then 400, then
800, then 1200, then 2000 grit. Finally compound and wax. Make sure you
use a sanding block so you don’t gouge the gelcoat.It’s surprisingly easy. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Bob
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 9:01 AM, allantereshko <
> wrote:I am renaming boat and need to cover old painted name on transom. Not
ready to paint whole boat, just transom. Any suggestions on matching shade
of white by using original shade of gelcoat as a match._______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Wow! That’s perfect! I would like the plans!
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 22, 2011 12:44 PM, “joe shimkonis” <> wrote:Hi Bob-These photos weren’t originally taken to display the radar
arch/dinghy
davits/solar panel mounts.I can provide better photos if anyone is
interested.But one example of a solution.Bob,I had the same objective asyou
when we designed this set up-strong davits,solar panel mount,clean up back
end,I
can stand in the dinghy/motor on the davits.Also attached mizzen boom
sheet to
the top of the arch,thru the boom,and down the mizzen mast for sail
control.Exteneded stern rail for cockpit surround protection.Removedtriangle
tubing back stern center for access to the dinghy.Relocated primary
winches to
adjacent to the wheel.
Fabricated by Dave Crawford-Oriental-outstanding rigger and great with SS
fabrication.He built 3 sets of these and then went cruising.A lot of‘work’.I’m
Quote:sure he would provide specs if someone requested.________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
What I meant to say was that you can use the rigid boom vang for isometric
exercises. Bad joke.With the topping lift, if you have a solar panel on the dodger, you can just
move the traveler to one side, tie the boom… Oh, wait, not everyone has a
handle I’m the side of the dodge.Well, you probably should.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 17, 2011 7:33 AM, “Silverheels” <> wrote:John,
You wrote, “I went to internal halyards to get my topping lift. A rigid
vang
is a lot easier to implement.”
I’m sure you know (but maybe some don’t realize) that you don’t need to
run
a topping lift all the way down the mast, internally or otherwise, in
order
to have it adjustable. Another common arrangement, which I have on both my
main and mizzen booms, is a 2/3-length wire topping lift from the masthead
with an eye thimble at its lower end through which a block is shackled. A
length of line with one end attached to the boom end runs up through the
block, back down to the boom end, through a cheek block and forward along
the boom to a cleat. You adjust the topping lift with the line, from the
mid-boom cleat position. I believe this is easier (and certainly less
expensive) to implement than a rigid vang.I use Silverheels’ “harbor lift” (neat term, I’d never heard it before) to
minimize the main boom’s wobble at anchor. A boom crutch would be betterfor
that, but I don’t have one set up yet. One of these days I’ll mount a
short,
Quote:fold-down crutch on top of my hard dodger top.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You can use the vang as an isometric resistance device for strengthening
your stomach.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 16, 2011 2:07 PM, “S V Navasana” <> wrote:Topping lift is not an issue po had installed Dutchman so the lift line is
integral to that.
However – when I replace my mainsail my sailmaker is advising against the
Dutchman system. But it sure is handy.
Aside from supporting the boom are there other advantages to rigid for the
cruising sailor?
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 16, 2011, at 10:04 AM, John Stevenson <>
wrote:
Bob wrote, “No matter what, though, rotate the hatch underneath 180
degrees
so you can
open it.”Bob, I thought this hatch was originally installed with the opening aft.
I
think that is what your are recommending. Possibly your PO turned it
around
to get more air below when at anchor. I have a friend who has reversed
this
hatch on all boats he has owned (none Pearson). I think he took the vang
off his current boat.Of course it might have been my PO who turned the hatch around.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 12:47 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
I would really like a rigid bang so there’s less crap at the top of the
mast. I almost never use the boom hitch because it means the boom shades
the
solar panel. So the rigid bang would be a help.No matter what, though, rotate the hatch underneath 180 degrees so you
can
open it.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 16, 2011 12:19 PM, “John Stevenson” <>
wrote:“On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom
vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the cockpit).”
End of this sentence somehow got chopped.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 12:16 PM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Eric,
I inherited a rigid boom vang from the PO. It was a good thing whenthe
only other support for the boom was the harbor lift (short wire from
the
mizzen mast with a snap shackle to clip into the main boom end plate).
There have been many times when I couldn’t or forgot to attach theharbor
lift before putting in a reef or dropping the main sail. Without the
rigid
boom vang the boom would have dropped onto the Dodger as soon as I
released
the halyard.
I subsequently added an adjustable topping lift (also backup main
halyard)
and the rigid boom vang has become less useful. I will keep the rigid
vang
as a backup to the topping lift for as long as it is operational, then
I
will likely replaced it with a standard rope vang.
If I were starting out without both a topping lift and a rigid vang,
my
priority would be the topping lift. However, I went to internal
halyards
to
get my topping lift. A rigid vang is a lot easier to implement.
On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom
vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 11:22 AM, S V Navasana <>
wrote:
I am mulling over adding a rigid vang to Navasana. Currently she has
a
line vang.
Just wounding if this is a worthwhile upgrade. Am sure there is atleast
an opinion or two out there.
Eric Lorentzon
S V Navasana.
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Hi John,
It was your po who rotated the hatch. Check the brochure. I’ve rotated
them inn every vessel I’ve owned, too.The nice thing about them facing aft, besides not interfering with the vang
is breeze in a slip, and you can keep it open slightly even when crashing
along without taking on seawater all the time.Also, at anchor, provides a ‘suction’ enhancing flow through the boat.
Recommended for everyone.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 16, 2011 1:05 PM, “John Stevenson” <> wrote:Bob wrote, “No matter what, though, rotate the hatch underneath 180
degrees
so you can
open it.”Bob, I thought this hatch was originally installed with the opening aft. I
think that is what your are recommending. Possibly your PO turned itaround
to get more air below when at anchor. I have a friend who has reversed
this
hatch on all boats he has owned (none Pearson). I think he took the vang
off his current boat.Of course it might have been my PO who turned the hatch around.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 12:47 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
I would really like a rigid bang so there’s less crap at the top of the
mast. I almost never use the boom hitch because it means the boom shades
the
solar panel. So the rigid bang would be a help.No matter what, though, rotate the hatch underneath 180 degrees so you
can
open it.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 16, 2011 12:19 PM, “John Stevenson” <>
wrote:“On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom
vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the cockpit).”
End of this sentence somehow got chopped.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 12:16 PM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Eric,
I inherited a rigid boom vang from the PO. It was a good thing whenthe
only other support for the boom was the harbor lift (short wire from
the
mizzen mast with a snap shackle to clip into the main boom end plate).
There have been many times when I couldn’t or forgot to attach theharbor
lift before putting in a reef or dropping the main sail. Without the
rigid
boom vang the boom would have dropped onto the Dodger as soon as I
released
the halyard.
I subsequently added an adjustable topping lift (also backup main
halyard)
and the rigid boom vang has become less useful. I will keep the rigid
vang
as a backup to the topping lift for as long as it is operational, then
I
will likely replaced it with a standard rope vang.
If I were starting out without both a topping lift and a rigid vang,
my
priority would be the topping lift. However, I went to internal
halyards
to
get my topping lift. A rigid vang is a lot easier to implement.
On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom
vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 11:22 AM, S V Navasana <>
wrote:
I am mulling over adding a rigid vang to Navasana. Currently she has
a
line vang.
Just wounding if this is a worthwhile upgrade. Am sure there is atleast
an opinion or two out there.
Eric Lorentzon
S V Navasana.
_______________________________________________
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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I would really like a rigid bang so there’s less crap at the top of the
mast. I almost never use the boom hitch because it means the boom shades the
solar panel. So the rigid bang would be a help.No matter what, though, rotate the hatch underneath 180 degrees so you can
open it.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 16, 2011 12:19 PM, “John Stevenson” <> wrote:“On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the cockpit).”End of this sentence somehow got chopped.
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 12:16 PM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Eric,
I inherited a rigid boom vang from the PO. It was a good thing when the
only other support for the boom was the harbor lift (short wire from the
mizzen mast with a snap shackle to clip into the main boom end plate).
There have been many times when I couldn’t or forgot to attach the harbor
lift before putting in a reef or dropping the main sail. Without therigid
boom vang the boom would have dropped onto the Dodger as soon as I
released
the halyard.
I subsequently added an adjustable topping lift (also backup main
halyard)
and the rigid boom vang has become less useful. I will keep the rigid
vang
as a backup to the topping lift for as long as it is operational, then I
will likely replaced it with a standard rope vang.If I were starting out without both a topping lift and a rigid vang, my
priority would be the topping lift. However, I went to internal halyardsto
get my topping lift. A rigid vang is a lot easier to implement.
On the other hand if my goal was to be able to raise and reef and drop
the
main sail from the cockpit, I would definitely go with the rigid boom
vang
(no need run a topping lift line to the
On Sun, Jan 16, 2011 at 11:22 AM, S V Navasana <>
wrote:
I am mulling over adding a rigid vang to Navasana. Currently she has a
line vang.
Just wounding if this is a worthwhile upgrade. Am sure there is at least
an opinion or two out there.Eric Lorentzon
S V Navasana.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Hi Adam, remove tape immediately but don’t touch for a few days.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 11, 2011 11:00 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the replies! I took the hatch off the boat and will have new
acrylic cut. I have heard different opinions on how long to set up the
sealant ( Dow 795 or GE Ultraglaze 4000 ) for about 3 weeks before cutting
away excess. Is this the best way to go, or remove the tape immediately and
wipe edges like normal caulking.Adam
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