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The Dow stuff holds window in skyscrapers. I’ve never had it fail. It’s also
only 10 bucks a tube.I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 10, 2011 9:21 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Thing about Sikaflex is that to get the best results one should use all
elements of the system: cleaner, primer, and caulk.Pete
On 1/10/2011 7:04 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
I called Bowmar about 20 years ago when I had to replace the plastic in
one
Quote:Quote:of my hatches. The guy said they use Silkaflex. I would guess they would
have used something cheaper and easier if it worked as well…Rich
Quote:
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Oops! Dow Corning 795 sealant!
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 10, 2011 11:08 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Thanks, Rich. I’ll check West Marine for that gasket material next chance
I
Quote:get. As for the latch spring, I’m not ready to replace the entire hatch
because of it. Any idea who made the original hatches?Hey, does anyone in the group who has replaced their hatches still have
their old ones? Want to sell me those little springs?Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Lee,
This is a good time, then, to consider a new battery arrangement. Tor has
figured out a way to stuff an ungodly number of batteries into the locker
aft of the water heater. That left his starboard locker free for stuff.My starboard boxes are still fine, so I have the two 4D’s there, another 4D
in that aforementioned locker which makes up the house bank of 600 amp
hours, and two group 31 batteries making the engine start bank (actually,
just bank 2 on the switch). All are AGMs.Since you have a generator, you might not want all those batteries
especially if you can do with fewer or smaller.What a number of owners have done is split the big 12v batteries into two 6v
battery mini-banks, as it were, where the arrangements are much more
flexible. I think if I did that, I’d spread the weight out more evenly in
the boat. But that’s something of a dream- definitely way down the list of
things that need doing.Anyway, you could just rebuild the boxes if you like, too, or get
manufactured ones to mount.Bob
On Sun, Jan 9, 2011 at 8:47 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
I was crawling around down in the starboard lazerette the other day and I
noticed several places where the fiberglass seemed to be delaminating. A
few
pokes with my knife produced scary results. Much of the plywood in the
lower
(inside) box was totally rotten and the upper (outside) box had several
soft
spots.I got my sawsall out and went to cutting away the boxes. What I found was
much
worse than I ever imagined. The bottom half of the lower box was nothing
but
rotten, heavily decomposed wood. It looked like wet sawdust. The upper box
was a
little better. Several hours with a sawsall and grinder got everything
cleaned
up nicely. Looking at the nasty looking wood made me shudder. There could
have
been four sixty pound batteries pounding against the hull.lee
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I get my plastic from local dealers. Plasticraft is one. For 3/8 inch for
the large hatches, I think I paid like $50.It’s importanto get the right adhesive. I’ve tried them all, and the only
one that works is GE stuff. Just use gloves and tape liberally. It’s sticky,
black and messy.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 9:53 PM, “Adam” wrote:Thanks for the quick replies! Bob where does one get acrylic fabricated
and what was the approx cost. My paint on hatches is in pretty good
condition.As to the NFM hatch, is it a simple drop in, or does the hole have to be
enlarged? Is it worth the expense ?
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Replacing is super easy. I used 3/8 inch acrylic and GE 794 sealant.
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2011 6:55 PM, “Adam” wrote:I have read that some have chosen to replace the bomar hatches. Mine are
leaking with heavy rain and I am want to know if the plastic can be
stripped, cleaned and rebedded with caulking or is this futile and just bite
the bullit and replace the hatch?Thanks for your advice in advance.
Adam
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Hi Rich,
I’m with you – I’ve always wanted to try the circle thing. It has another
advantage – if one person in the middle wants to leave, they can and the
others just adjust their stern lines.I think it would be fun! That way, like the last time, we could have lots
and lots of people crawling all over the place and any one boat doesn’t need
to host everyone.On the other hand, if only a few boats show up, that’s not so much of a
problem.Bob
On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 10:37 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Thatcher,
Yes, I’m a cheap SOB too. I’d be happier on a hook but there are some
logistical problems with rafting on a hook. We might be able to anchor if
we find the right spot though.1 – If the wind shifts, the anchors can get twisted together.
2 – Most anchorages that are large enough to raft seem to attract bone-head
power-boat operators who don’t know what a boat wake can do to rafted
boats.I’ve seen photos of boats rafted in a circle with their sterns facing
inward
and their bows out. Everybody drops their hook outside the circle and
backs
in. I’d like to try that if we have a good spot. Backing a 424 in might
be
a challenge but we could probably use a dinghy or two to tug folks into
position or set the anchor. This would eliminate issue #1 above.Rich
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Hi Tor,
I forgot about your table the other one was varnished real all round.
By the way, ‘Miss Kathleen’ is now laying in New Zealand. My friends are
looking to stay a while.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 6, 2011 7:19 AM, “SilverHeels” <> wrote:Bob,
I don’t know about the boat in Haverstraw, but you also saw an LPG box top
table on Silverheels (photos attached), compliments of a PO. It’s a handy
shelf platform out there for binoculars, guidebook, anything I want toreach
from the helm underway, but adding wings fold-down to the box to have a
really functional cockpit table has been on my to-do list for quite awhile.
I don’t think it’ll be difficult or expensive to do, depending on how much
of a showpiece I want, but in reality I rarely dine out there so it’sstill
Quote:on The List.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I saw a table once that was just a top to a LPG box on a 424 ketch. It was
in Haverstraw, NY and sold a long time after I purchased mine. I wonder who
purchased it – it had an Irish name which I forget. But the table was
really nice.Bob
On Wed, Jan 5, 2011 at 10:07 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:
Quote:Dan,
I bought mine on ebay a few years back. Who built it now, was it Lee
Thurner? I don’t know why he put it on ebay. It’s a thing of beauty and
works great in the cockpit. Instructions for building it are in back
issues
of the 424 newsletter. Instructions include a drawing for a ketch table.
You can find information in back issues. Buiding such a table is a serious
project and not suggested unless you are good with woodworking. Materials
alone would probably cost over $200, and I would expect it to take about
100
hrs to fabricate. You might find someone who would be willing to build one
for you.I own a sloop. I just finished refinishing the table and I made
modifications to allow a 2kw honda generator to stow underneath the table
top. I had to cut the bottom of the table off to raise it and I extended
the distance between the legs to allow the generator to fit. Photo
attached. I have yet to remount it in the cockpit.Rich
Quote:
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Not knowing where everyone is coming from, I vote for Pt. Judith as Phil
indicates. It’s well protected so that we don’t have a repeat of Three Mile
Harbor (as fun as that was and seeing 6 424’s motoring together was quite a
site – a sextamaran.) Fresh seafood is abounding in Pt. Judith, (I one
purchased 5lb of fresh scallops off the boat for $20. I at scallops every
which way for a week. Mmmm.) But I digress.It’s sort of central and it gives me an excuse to visit Fisher’s Island and
Noank. Also, when there’s wind, but not too much wind, there’s great
sailing.Were we thinking of July 4th weekend? I would suggest a weekend that’s not
a holiday, maybe third weekend of July?Also, how many of us might be there? I can take one couple if they don’t
live nearby and want to go. Paul came with me last time (you’re welcome
again, Paul, if you like, I like McCallan’s.)So there’s my vote.
Bob
On Wed, Jan 5, 2011 at 10:24 PM, Philippe Fontaine wrote:
Quote:The inside harbor at Cuttyhunk would not be suitable for us in high season
unless we wanted to go dockside or on individual moorings and perhaps a boat
or two anchored alone.The remaining anchorage there is quite small,
especially for boats our size. There are moorings and anchorage in the outer
harbor which would be ok in settled weather but it would not be a great
place to be in a north to northeast wind.I agree with your assessment of Hadley’s. It is probably my all time
favorite place but now filled with moorings to keep the fairway open for the
private ferry. There isn’t room to anchor more than about two boats and then
only if one arrives early in the day to catch an anchoring spot or open
mooriong.. I think even the outer harbor is a bit too small for us, given
the number of other boats that can be expected there.Onset is certainly a good spot in the upper reaches of Buzzards Bay.
Another that we like in that area is the east side of Pine Island, opposite
Red Brook Harbor. The path in is a bit tortuous but not really difficult and
once in it is quite picturesque and not usually very crowded. There are no
facilities but one can find a full service marina and fancy restaurant about
a mile away in Reed Brook.I have commented on Block Island and Point Judith in a separate message.
Phil
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Lovely. Hard to get to.
BOb
On Wed, Jan 5, 2011 at 8:10 AM, dave jones wrote:
How about http://tinyurl.com/WoodbineHarbor, (Walleye, Northern, and
Trout), or for those who prefer more civilization
http://tinyurl.com/CPRSlip complete with three room sauna (bring your own
wood). Both have the additional benefit of unlimited fresh water 😀Dave and Pat
s/v Doris E. #178On 1/4/11 11:37 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
How about Westcot
Bay<
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=Westcott+Bay,+San+Juan,+WA&ie=UTF8&split=0&sll=48.181698,-121.951307&sspn=1.033497,2.906804&hq=&hnear=Westcott+Bay&ll=48.601474,-123.159914&spn=0.047564,0.132093&t=h&z=14for
all two of us known Puget Sounders. 😉
(There are rumored to be others, but I don’t ever see them online here)-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 7:12 PM, Rich Carter
wrote:I’m planning my vaction schedule for this summer. I’m headed to Cape Cod
and the islands sometime in July and/or August. I’d be interested in
meeting up with folks as we did a couple of years back. I’m open to
suggestions. Edgartown is no longer an option. Block Island would work.
Cuttyhunk might work. Hadleys Harbor is also an option. I like Chatham,
but it might be too far off the beaten path. Offhand I can’t think of
any
other good harbors in the area. Any suggestions from other owners?Rich
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Er, ahh, that’s a little far from Cuttyhunk. We probably won’t make it.
Last time we met it was in Three Mile Harbor which was quite nice. Block
Island would be ok, I suppose, as much as I absolutely hate the place. I
haven’t been there for 15 years because it’s too crazy. It’s the antithesis
of cruising, in my opinion, but I leave the choice to others.Another nice place is Point Judith Harbor of Refuge. A short dinghy ride
away are two towns (Galilee and something else) where you can get really
fresh lobster, clams, scallops etc.) Or we could anchor up inside.
Cuttyhunk is also good. Hadley Harbor is small and crowded, but across the
bay is Onset which is really nice, with anchorages and mooring at the Onset
Yacht Club (no launch, but awesome bar and restaurant) for like $10/day. It
may have gone up. But there is anchoring space as well and good restaurants
in town.Those are the places I can think of off hand.
Bob
On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 11:37 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:How about Westcot
Bay<
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=Westcott+Bay,+San+Juan,+WA&ie=UTF8&split=0&sll=48.181698,-121.951307&sspn=1.033497,2.906804&hq=&hnear=Westcott+Bay&ll=48.601474,-123.159914&spn=0.047564,0.132093&t=h&z=14for
all two of us known Puget Sounders. 😉
(There are rumored to be others, but I don’t ever see them online here)-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 7:12 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
I’m planning my vaction schedule for this summer. I’m headed to Cape Cod
and the islands sometime in July and/or August. I’d be interested in
meeting up with folks as we did a couple of years back. I’m open to
suggestions. Edgartown is no longer an option. Block Island would work.
Cuttyhunk might work. Hadleys Harbor is also an option. I like Chatham,
but it might be too far off the beaten path. Offhand I can’t think ofany
other good harbors in the area. Any suggestions from other owners?
Rich
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Having discussed this some time ago with the people at Walter, the backlash
we are hearing at low speed is from the power pulses from the engine being
absorbed through the gearset. Walter says it’s expected, it’s noisy, and it
doesn’t hurt the v-drive. The reason it goes away at higher rpms is because
the power pulses smooth out.The transmission, especially the Velvet Drive is hydraulic and couldn’t care
less about power pulses. I’m not sure the failure is due to the damper
plate or the backlash. Upon being torn down, I’d want to know what,
exactly, failed.Having broken or weak springs on the damper don’t help the issue because the
pulses are not absorbed at higher than normal rpm. They are basically small
shock absorbers.I’ve had 80 wt oil in the v-drive. Makes it very quiet. Also wrong. 30 wt
oil works fine but the gear whine is quite audible. At very low rpms, it
sounds like it’s pumping marbles but that’s the backlash I expect. I try
not to run it long at those speeds.The transmission currently has ATF in it but will run with, wait for it…
30 wt oil, according to the manual. I could, in theory, run the whole kit
and kaboodle with 30 wt. It’s tempting.No matter what you do, when you reach the point where the power is not
smoothed out by the damper, flywheel, and damper plate, you’ll hear the
v-drive banging around.Bob
On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 8:31 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:I use standard ATF transmission oil..so I doubt that viscosity is the
solution.________________________________
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Hey! If anyone wants eyebrow I’ll give ’em mine! It’s a good excuse to get
rid of it!Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 15, 2010 5:01 PM, “quent” <> wrote:Thanks, guys. Paint or tape seem like good options. I’ll probably go with
tape. We will cover up that stripe of unfaded gelcoat.
The teak eyebrow was bedded in silicon caulk, which held fast even after
the screws were removed. So maybe the eyebrow could just be glued on.
Some sections of the eyebrow aren’t too bad if anyone needs some.
John, I hope you are keeping warm down there and in good health.
Best regards,
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On the other hand, I’ve seen Lee’s boat and he removed the teak, filled the
holes and panted the deck. It makes the boat look much more modern, I
think, and far less prone to leakage.Also: Less maintenance.
I wish I could replace my caprail with those new decking materials that look
as good as my current teak does but won’t deteriorate any more which my teak
will.You could replace the eyebrow with that material, too. It won’t look great
but it won’t look bad, either.Bob
On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:52 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:Quent,
Someone painted stripes down the edge of his coach-roof to simulate the
teak trim. Maybe someone could reply with a link to photos. I’ve lost track
of how often I’ve pulled the screws out and rebed them to fix a leak. It
would be nice if there were a convenient way to attach the trim without
holes. I’ve done this for teak decking, but not something as difficult to
attach as this.Rich
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Hi Patrick,
Here’s the thing: even if you put a 50 amp cord and stuff, the boat is only
wired to handle one leg of the 220v circuit. Surprisingly, that’s not all
that unusual. I’ve seen large-ish motor yachts wired that way.If you’re going to Europe where there’s 220vac single phase current, you
have to have a step-down transformer to run the normal boat loads. Stuff’s
just not wired the same there. It’s easier for a foreign 220v boat to hook
up here to 50 amps (2 hot leads, 1 ground) than it is to take a 50 amp 110v
single leg boat and hook it up there.What you could do (and I would if I were going to 50amps) would to put a
second AC panel and box for big loads – heaters and air conditioning,
refrigerator, etc. and the other 50 amp leg to run all the other ac loads.
Then you’d have something!Bob
On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 2:01 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I have contemplated moving the shore power connection and getting a longer
cord. Wonder if I should replace the 50amp main AC breaker and put in a
50amp shore cord…
Might be better to do a different modification to accommodate overseas
power….Well now I’ve got some research to do I guess.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 6:55 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Same here, 50A main breaker. I have a 30A breaker at my isolation
transformer up stream from the panel, so this breaker doesn’t protectmuch.
All of the sub-circuit breakers are 15A or less, except the frig and the
A/C, which are 30A and 20A respectively. Can’t explain the 30A for the
frig, which appears factory installed. I don’t believe the old Grunert
(died in 2001) drew more than 10A.I could use 50A service right now. It’s really cold in Jacksonville
(once
again I didn’t go far enough south). Back to breaker roulette trying to
juggle a couple of space heaters, the frig and hot water heater.On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 6:05 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Pat,
When I replaced my charger/inverted I found the same thing. The wiring
was
good for 1 leg of a 50 amp service. My main breaker is 30 amp, tho. I
had
to
replace all the wiring from the plug on.If you check the plug you may find the wires don’t fit properly as I
did.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 14, 2010 4:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <wrote:
Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a
tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was
wired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been
replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics
and
I
assume all original original.
My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in
the
AC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.
Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island
in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts
to
the
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following
seas
and
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice
short
2hour jaunt.
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (tochange
the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also
used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. SoI
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas ofthe
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of
the
P424
run.On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curious
if
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to
the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19Thanks,
-p
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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