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Hey, Craig, could you please attach the drawing? I can’t see photobucket
images (security reasons).Thanks,
Bob
On Tue, May 6, 2014 at 10:03 PM, cbboat wrote:
Here is one less cluttered.
Sleep well, talk to you tomorrow.Craig
[Image:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/scherzoja/electrical/BatteryRewire2_zps5c2d3726.jpg%5Dhttp://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/scherzoja/electrical/BatteryRewire2_zps5c2d3726.jpg
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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The first thing I see is your house battery hookup doesn’t seem correct.
Too many wires. It’s too late just now to go over the whole thing.
Tomorrow I’ll have a better look.Bob
On Tue, May 6, 2014 at 9:27 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Please attach drawing.
Thanks,
Bob
On Tue, May 6, 2014 at 9:21 PM, cbboat wrote:
Since my batteries are fried, I’ll redo the battery wiring when I replace
the batteries.Here is a diagram of my plan and a few questions.
Existing equipment: AC powered charger, Group 27 start battery,
alternator, starter, On/Off and 1-both-2-off switchesBatteries will be four US Battery US2200 XC 6v batteries @ 232 AH.
Two of them wired in series, the two pair wired parallel to total of
464AH.
Here is the diagram.1. Is this going to work?
2. What am I missing?
3. What meter do I need (current meter is analog volt meter). Will a
digital voltmeter connected to both banks suffice? I want to measure volts
coming out of alternator and I don’t know what I want to measure on the
house bank, any recommendations on amp/volt/AH meters?4. I suppose I need to have some kind of meter on the start battery to
keep an eye on that. meter that shows the voltage of the starter battery?5. When wiring alternator output directly to the house battery, does the
wire have to be wired directly to the battery’s positive terminal or can it
go through a bus bar, as shown in diagram? Same question for the echo
charger lead to the house bank. Dashed lines indicate input cable going
directly to the positive terminal, rather than through a bus bar.The diagram is drawn in normal operating position, where the 1-both-2-off
switch is on 1, connecting house bank with DC panel and ON/Off set for On
so starter pulls from starter battery.The diagram shows shunts for meters. If I have a volt meter connected to
the pos terminal, do I need a shunt? Should the voltmeter be connected to
the shunts?The alternator is wired to house and echo charger sends excess to starter.
110volt battery charger connected directly to both banks (starter and
house).If starter battery fails, I change the 1-both-2-Off switch to Both and
use house bank to start engine.If house bank fails, I change to 2 and use start for house (hope I don’t
do that accidentally!).Fuses: one on each positive battery cable, where else?
Thanks,
Craig[Image:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/scherzoja/electrical/BatteryRewire_zpsa977c69a.jpg%5D_______________________________________________
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Please attach drawing.
Thanks,
Bob
On Tue, May 6, 2014 at 9:21 PM, cbboat wrote:
Since my batteries are fried, I’ll redo the battery wiring when I replace
the batteries.Here is a diagram of my plan and a few questions.
Existing equipment: AC powered charger, Group 27 start battery,
alternator, starter, On/Off and 1-both-2-off switchesBatteries will be four US Battery US2200 XC 6v batteries @ 232 AH.
Two of them wired in series, the two pair wired parallel to total of 464AH.
Here is the diagram.1. Is this going to work?
2. What am I missing?
3. What meter do I need (current meter is analog volt meter). Will a
digital voltmeter connected to both banks suffice? I want to measure volts
coming out of alternator and I don’t know what I want to measure on the
house bank, any recommendations on amp/volt/AH meters?4. I suppose I need to have some kind of meter on the start battery to
keep an eye on that. meter that shows the voltage of the starter battery?5. When wiring alternator output directly to the house battery, does the
wire have to be wired directly to the battery’s positive terminal or can it
go through a bus bar, as shown in diagram? Same question for the echo
charger lead to the house bank. Dashed lines indicate input cable going
directly to the positive terminal, rather than through a bus bar.The diagram is drawn in normal operating position, where the 1-both-2-off
switch is on 1, connecting house bank with DC panel and ON/Off set for On
so starter pulls from starter battery.The diagram shows shunts for meters. If I have a volt meter connected to
the pos terminal, do I need a shunt? Should the voltmeter be connected to
the shunts?The alternator is wired to house and echo charger sends excess to starter.
110volt battery charger connected directly to both banks (starter and
house).If starter battery fails, I change the 1-both-2-Off switch to Both and use
house bank to start engine.If house bank fails, I change to 2 and use start for house (hope I don’t
do that accidentally!).Fuses: one on each positive battery cable, where else?
Thanks,
Craig[Image:
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/scherzoja/electrical/BatteryRewire_zpsa977c69a.jpg%5D_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Always, my friend!
On Sat, May 3, 2014 at 8:17 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I see Bob’s nice, too.Quote:
Original Message
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That’s definitely bad batteries. Sorry, my man. That’s an expensive ticket
item.Bob
On Sun, Apr 27, 2014 at 8:52 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:On sunny days, which is to say most days in the Caribbean, the solar panel
alone keeps the bank up around 13V. In general I don’t let AGM’s get below
12.2V, higher when new. But these past months, as they’ve lost the ability
to hold a charge, they drop nightly to the mid-low 11’s no matter how
charged up they get during the day – even after motoring for many hours or
running the 60-amp battery charger (via the generator) for a few hours in
the evening to charge them up. They simply crash during the night. I’ve
just had to deal with it until I got back Stateside.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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That’s a little short of their lifetime. Do you run them way down often?
Although I should talk. I think mine need replacing as well. Afraid to
test them….On Sun, Apr 27, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Bob. Gee, I guess it has been that long. My,
how time flies. So, I got 4-1/2 years from this set,
which are used almost constantly (I’m almost never
dockside). Not bad considering the Port Supply price, I
suppose.I have all my charging systems – battery charger, solar
panel & wind generator – set to their AGM settings. I
guess it’s just time.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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It’s important if you have AGMs that you treat them as such. They’re very
forgiving, but they have charge voltages higher than flooded cell
batteries. If maintained like standard batteries, expect 5 years, as AGMs
expect 7 to 8 years. All batteries fail eventually.If I remember correctly, Tor, you replaced them around 2009, which means
they’re years old. That’s the low end of their life span, but not
unacceptable.Frankly, I’m thinking of replacing all mine (7 year old) with flooded cell
with auto fill systems.Bob
On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 6:17 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Several years ago, i converted Whiffler’s house batteries to 4 golf cart
batteries. These are much easier to replace the the original large 12 V
batteries.
Also have one deep cycle for my computer system, one for my windless, and
one generator battery. I use an echo charger for my generator and windless
batteries. System overall seems to work well STEVESent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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Wow, that is a good price for the batteries! Hey, if they’re all flooded
cell, you can get an irrigation system that replaces the caps and allows
you to automatically fill the batteries to the proper level.Bob
On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 9:09 PM, cbboat wrote:
Thanks for the tips.
It looks like I’m off to get new batteries. The remaining one still shows
full, but still drops to zero with load put on it (i.e. water pressure
pump, spreader lights, etc…).I’m just going to get rid of them (dead steamed one and remaining unknown
age wet cell) and get some 6v golf cart batteries. I found a local supplier
of US Battery US2000 XC2 232 AH batteries for $120 without core.Thanks again for the help.
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Those are my horns, too! I just made my first conch horn this winter!
Bob
On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:This is the first boat of mine on which I have not used
a conch horn. Just haven’t come across a clean,
unbroken shell yet. Meanwhile, I’ve got the next most
reliable horn I can think of, a red plastic
mini-trumpet that came with the boat. I always was a
sucker for the sound of a kazoo.The boat also came with an canned-air horn, but it has
died from non-use. I actually can’t recall the last
time I sounded a horn on a boat.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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I have a hailer that doubles as a horn, although it’s a pain to get into
horn mode. Not something you want to do in an emergency.Bob
On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 9:51 AM, wrote:
What are folks using for a horn? I have an AFI 10036 that needs
replacing. It worked OK for many years but wasn’t as loud as I wished. It
stopped working last year. Before I spend another $100, I thought I’d send
out a question to the group.
http://www.westmarine.com/horns/afi–international-shorty-horn–548669Rich
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The sealed battery may or may not be wet cell. I hope it is, especially if
it was $160. A 4D AGM is around 350-750, and a Gel even more.Ok, I thought they were two different boxes, but now you know what that one
does.The start battery black probably goes to the engine block. Two wires from
the T-503 go to the windlass, the other two, one goes to the battery
switch, the other goes to ships ground. It works by reversing the polarity
of the power at the windlass.The first thing I’d do is clean all the battery terminals, and if you can
borrow one, get a battery tester, either a load or one of the new
electronic ones. The lines that power the windlass should have a 100 amp
breaker in it somewhere, usually looks like a big red button or if newer, a
small black box with a yellow lever and a red button.Where is the boat located?
Bob
On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 12:04 AM, cbboat wrote:
Thanks Bob.
I figured a wiring diagram would be necessary, but I don’t have one and
the wiring is such a mess of spaghetti that it is hard to determine what
goes where. All I can discern now is where the large ga wires go.This diagram is likely not 100% accurate and only shows the larger ga
wires. The smaller ga wires connected to the batteries and perko switches
were too tangled to trace with certainty.http://bodylens.com/battery/batterydiagram.pdf
Neg terminals wired together.
Yes, the batteries are mixed. Battery2 is wet cell, Battery 1 is the
sealed. All I know is that it is sealed and probably not the best because
it’s a 4D that I could easily lift out of the boat and carry to the garage.
Also, the receipts from PO show a 4D with at price of around $160The mystery box pictures are of the same box, what you identified as the
windlass reversing solenoid. I should have named the image more clearly.
Thanks for identifying that piece.Age: I’ve had the boat for about 2 years. The blown battery was about a
year old, so it’s 3 years old. Battery 2 (the wet cell 4D) is older, age
unknown.If Battery 2 shows full charge, but upon running a device, its volts drop
to < 5v, is that battery also shot or could a lose ground also cause that
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s/v Pelican
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi,
The picture 2 looks like a charge combiner or isolator – it senses one
battery (probably #1 or the start battery) and when it gets to a full
charge, redirects the charge to another battery, or it prevents discharge
of one battery from discharging the start battery. The other probably does
the opposite.What you need to do is give us a drawing of all the battery wires including
the charge wires from the charger and alternator. We can’t even begin to
guess, really.Second, you need to determine whether you really do have different battery
types – you can’t mix them, although AGMs will survive in a flooded cell
environment.I don’t know how old your batteries are, but the smoking one may have a
shorted cell. If it got hot enough to boil, it’s probably shot.The charger may use battery 1 to sense voltage so when it’s disconnected it
won’t work. Also, you can’t just jump the positive cable to the negative
cable. That produces a dead short to the alternator and charger. If the
batteries are in series, for some reason, you will reduce the bank’s
voltage by that battery amount which also will drive the charger nuts.So we need a wiring diagram.
Mystery box 1 is a windlass reversing solenoid, which I assume is connected
to the windlass. It’s a Bobina 503 T. Mystery box 2 is the charge
combiner.Bob
On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 9:15 PM, cbboat wrote:
I’ve got a battery problem.
During the last 5-day trip, the batteries worked very well, but one was
hotter than normal. On day 4 it started blowing steam and stinking up the
whole boat. I switched the battery selector to 2 so the alternator would
stop charging that battery. Back at the dock, I disconnected the hot lead
going from the battery charger to the failed steaming battery, but the
battery charger (the one that run on AC power) would not start unless I put
that lead back in. I then disconnected the pos and neg cables from the
steaming battery (and bolted them together so they are connected), but
still the charger won’t start charging.I put a spare starting battery in that position and now, the charger
starts and charges, but, even though the amp meter shows full and the
charger drops to float charge, when I turn on any device (water presure
pump, cockpit light, spreader light, blower, etc…) the meter for battery
2 bounced down to zero and sometimes inches up to 4 or 7 volts until I turn
off that device.I have two questions
1. Why do I need a battery in position 1 for the charger to kick in?
2. What is causing the remaining battery to show full, but drop to very
low when I turn on a device?
3. If anyone knows why battery 1 got hot and blew steam, I’d like to
know that.Here’s what I have
Statpower 40+ battery charger, set for battery type: flooded. Four wires
connected to the battery charger. Three red, going to the pos terminal of
the three batteries. One black, boing to the neg terminal of the engine
start battery. The neg terminals of all three batteries are connected
togetherThree batteries: one engine start battery, one 4D flooded battery and one
4D sealed battery (AGM or gel??).The battery selector switch has 2, All, 1
The flooded battery is Battery 2 on the switch and the sealed battery is
Battery 1.
The battery that got hot and blew steam is the sealed Battery 1.The flooded Battery 2 got down to 25 percent before I gave up the charger
trouble-shoting and started the engine to charge. This battery stayed
below 50% for about a week.The engine will charge whichever battery is selected on the battery
selector (1, 2 or All).
The starter battery is isolated and dedicated to engine.From the All terminal on the Battery Selector switch, there are red cables
going to an unknown device. Anyone know what this is (see linked images)?http://bodylens.com/battery/mysterybox1.jpg
http://bodylens.com/battery/mysterybox2.jpg_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I use it. Not bad. Takes some getting used to.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Apr 18, 2014 1:58 PM, wrote:I just bought a new VHF radio. It exports AIS and DSC position messages
to a compatible chartplotter. I thought I might upgrade my Nobeltec
chartplotting software but I came across a free package that looks good.
Has anyone used this?Rich
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I use it. Not bad. Takes some getting used to.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Apr 18, 2014 1:58 PM, wrote:I just bought a new VHF radio. It exports AIS and DSC position messages
to a compatible chartplotter. I thought I might upgrade my Nobeltec
chartplotting software but I came across a free package that looks good.
Has anyone used this?Rich
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Oops. Navionics guy. Maybe they don’t load the charts on the tablet so he’s
right.Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Mar 25, 2014 8:33 PM, “typhoontye” wrote:Looks like a nice pad, Linus but it’s still WiFi only so it won’t work
offshore as a backup. At least that is what the rep with Navionics tells
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