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No, no, he'll make it in Suffern, NY where his factory is. I'm leaving for England for a week to see family. I couldn't get across with the crappy foam I have… He will ship and I'll ask him if he's interested in shipping a duplicate to you and how much it will cost. My trip will be the last week of April while the boat's on the hard getting some fiberglass work done.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I take it your friend makes these mattresses in England. Do you mean you'll get yours over there when you eventually sail your boat across, or is your “visit” more imminent? Will the guy ship? Are these things uncommonly expensive? I ask because I'm due for a new aft cabin mattress. The Froli support helps, but it doesn't make up for dead foam.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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One of my ex – clients (from when I was consulting) who is a friend makes medical mattresses for wheel chairs, bariatric services, and so forth – he makes them using closed or open cell foam with layers of memory foam if desired and so forth. These are foam mattresses that are treated to resist mold and mildew and are very high density foam. I've told him that he's missing a great market. But when I leave for England to visit, I'll take my mattresses which are pretty much squished and get the foam replaced.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:What is “medical mattress grade stuff?” High density foam, a real spring mattress…?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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From their site I can't figure a thing out. What are they? Like mattress tiles? How do you do a v-berth? It's all very unclear. I think I'll just replace the foam with medical mattress grade stuff.
Bob
On Tue, Mar 17, 2009 at 8:57 AM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
http://www.comfortmarineandrv.com/products
the system really does help.
– pat
On 3/16/09 8:45 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
What's a froli?
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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What's a froli?
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 9:37 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aaron,
I bought the Froli system at the Annapolis sailboat show last fall, but I use it in the aft cabin berth. It definitely improves the bunk's comfort level. Not sure what wood trim pieces you're talking about in the V-berth unless it's the fiddles at the after end, where the filler piece joins. The Froli pieces can be adjusted – fitted – to accommodate odd bunk shapes. Can't you just not snap them together where the fiddles intrude.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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At the very least, there is a special fixture you can purchase that goes between the shower hose and shower head with a button on it that you can shut the water off with.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 5:34 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Rich,
Obviously you are starting from different fixture than I did. What I inherited from the PO was a standard Tempo galley faucet mounted in the shower wall. It was mounted on a piece of Teak so I assume it was installed by a PO and not what Pearson installed.I'm not sure what sort of shut-off valve you have on your faucet, but the single lever mixer works well in that you can turn it on and off without changing the mixer setting. I also have a shut-off valve on the shower head, but I only use it when I'm holding the shower head in my hand.
John
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 4:47 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus
Thanks for the info. I somehow thought the shutoff was specific to boats and RVs. I'd like to replace the shower head too; its a piece of junk too. I'll take a look at what's available when I go to the home store. I'll probably put in a drain plug somewhere below the shower valve to make sure it drains when I winterize.Rich
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Hi Rich,
My shower sump pump is actually under the galley sink – there is no sump, except of course, the shower itself. That said, I don't know if you have dual (hot and cold) faucets or a single operating one. If it's the original dual, the company is still in business and still produces that particular setup, with newer handles, but charges a gadzillion dollars for it. The reason is that the holes are not standard 4″ centers. Does that matter? Not to me, it didn't, as I own a hole saw of the appropriate size and made them 4″ centers. Then I installed a similar yet ever so much cheaper shower thing from Home Depot.
What I'd like to do is install a constant temperature fitting because I'm tired of either burning myself or sending myself into hypothermia. If you want to go that route, just make sure the cover plate is big enough.
Also:
I cut a 5″ round access plate hatch below the seat. You can't reach anything under there from the hatch and it is where John S. and I lost the cutout when we put our hatches in. There is enough room below the seat for a low pump.
Bob
On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:23 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I bought an access hatch on clearance for the unused area outboard of the shower about 20 years ago. The thing has been sitting in my shed since then. Like so many other projects, if its not broken it doesn't get fixed. There was nothing wrong with the shower, so it stayed on the to-do list until last weekend. The shower sump motor failed last fall. The thing was mounted in the bilge. It doesn't like the damp air down there and I've had problems with the pump for a few years now. I pulled the pump again this winter and fixed the motor (again). Rather than put the darn thing back in the bilge, I decided to mount it behind the shower in that unused space. I pulled the 11″x13″ hatch from the shed. I took a circular saw and a sawsall and cut the hole in the shower wall. There's a huge amount of space behind there. Its not as deep as the forward hanging locker. Its more than half that deep and about the same width. If you want to get an idea of the size, open the forward hanging locker and take a look. I plan to put a lower shelf in for the pump body and two more shelves for towels or whatever. Pictures will follow.
While I have my head in there, its a good time to replace the shower faucet. Like everybody else, Pearson used a cheap plastic faucet. While I like the shutoff valve on the head, I don't like the plastic vavle. The surface is pitted. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that is cost effective?
Rich
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
But as we all know, dealing with RigRite is problematic at best. There are other sources, I'm sure, and a good bedding compound installed correctly will also do the job.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Adam:
I asked that know-it-all, Mr Google, and he came up with the following answer from our “good” friends at Rigrite:
However, I see that these are black. My original ones are white as well. At least black is easier to keep clean 🙂
Paul
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sheet rubber is very easy to find – either McMaster-Carr or Grainger. You can use red rubber which is fairly immune to UV. But better is to rebed with a good bedding compound like 3M 4000 UV or Life Caulk. Making gaskets is a pain in the butt, especially in rubber. I used 3/8″ x 3/8″ to replace the gaskets in the aluminum opening portlights. Bomar no longer makes the gasket material for them.
Bob
On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Adam
I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to. Perhaps you mean the
rubber gaskets under the deck fittings. As I recall, the stanchions and
pulpits on my boat were bedded with rubber gaskets by Pearson. The rubber
was redish in color and a soft material. I've looked for it at various
times but am unable to find it.Regards
RichQuote:
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Clothes?
I live in the v-berth and use the hanging locker there. There's more than two drawers up there, too.
Bob
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 5:57 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Neat, but where to you keep your clothes?
Robert Fine wrote:
Ok, I've done it. I took the face off the drawers under the bunk in the aft cabin and made them cabinet doors that open out and down to the cabin sole.
Let it be known that I'm tickled as heck. With the addition of some moderately well organized plastic containers, storage is nearly doubled.Woohoo!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Hi Alan,
Hmmm, I wonder if I hinge the bottom with piano hinge and use a slide bolt down from the top. Lift the bolt, cushion falls open and hey! Presto! All my stuff falls out.
BOb
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 4:25 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Mine hinge at the top….. I like it, the SO hates it…. haven't found anything else that works yet.
I know when I traveled with Walt, on MADNESS (hull #1) from NE to Bermuda, his were velcroed in. In rough weather they get thrown around like ragdolls. Walt now has a rope across them to hold them in place. Not elegant but functional.
alan—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Tor and Thatcher,
The cushions you sit on are easily dealt with – a couple of strips of velcro hold them nicely. I don't have any sight ports in the water tanks so I don't need to take them off regularly.
As for the seat backs, they are cushions on plywood with velcro strips to the box outboard. In the case of the seat cushions, velcro is very hard to pull apart sideways so it doesn't take much to hold them. For the seat backs, though, loading from junk in the lockers is in exactly the direction you'd want to pull apart the velcro.
In my old boat, I made 'L' shaped wood pieces that made you lift the cushion up and pull the bottom out to get the thing off. It's good, but it doesn't help in a knockdown – where you want positive closure.
That's what I'm looking for.
BOb
2009/3/14 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:My boat has no covering over those storage locker apertures outboard of the salon settees other than the plywood-backed cushions, which are held there by Velcro. I don't think they're going to stay put once I start sailing, and I know the settee bottom cushions slide out onto the cabin sole when the boat's heeled. It's something I'll obviously have to remedy very soon. Like Bob, I'd be interested in what others have done.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Thatcher,
I've been thinking about that – they do hold the catch for the latch but the rest for some reason I believe are needed for strength.
I'm probably being unreasonable, and will eventually take them out because, of course, you're totally correct.
Bob
On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 3:44 PM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
If you take out the carry rails for the old drawers still visible in your last photo, you’ll have even more space.
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Don,
Your wish is my command. No, I didn't connect the doors because then I'd have to make a new door, door frame and strengthen the top some. Attached is a couple of pictures. My water heater is aft of these lockers and behind that are two 4D batteries.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Thanks – it was her Dyer Dinghy that I terrorized Port Washington with – tacking in and out of the moorings at the highest speed I could without capsizing.
Bob
On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aye, she was of a time ever so much more elegant than the present. What a beauty!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
Follow this link to the Bedouin VII as she stands now, completely rebuilt and refurbished. She sold for 10,000 when my aunt and uncle parted with her.
http://www.unitedyacht.com/yachts/1934/brochurenh.pdf
Bob
On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 12:57 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Island Packet, maybe. Valiant's in another league altogether.
Kudos to your aunt & uncle!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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