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Hi John,
Typically, an oil dipstick tube does not go all the way to the bottom of the sump – it is press fit into the block and ends either just inside or at the inside wall of the block. The dipstick itself doesn't go to the bottom of the sump, either, since all it has to measure is a narrow band of oil levels (once it's too low, it's always too low, even when it gets lower). The best way, of course, is to put a fitting in the oil pan drain and pump it from there. If you have access to drills and taps, drain the oil from the sump via the suction tube, then get the rest out using the drain plug. It'll be messy.
Take the plug and drill and tap it for a 1/2″ pipe fitting and put the fitting in with teflon tape. From that fitting you can run a high temperature hose to a high spot and cap it. When you need to remove the oil, connect your vacuum extractor to that hose and you'll be golden. Or, you can use a piece of copper tubing in the dipstick hole – just make sure you cut the end at an angle so that you aren't just sucking the tube to the bottom of the sump.
How're the Bahamas? Are you having a good time? I'm jealous!
Bob
On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:13 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Like a number of 424 owners I repowered to a 4JH engine, specifically in my case the 4JH4-AE. Other than having the engine block coolant drain cock come loose during a motorsailing passage and dump all of the coolant in the engine pan, the new engine has performed very well. The one problem I'm having is changing the oil.
For my W60 and on my previous boat I used a dipstick vacuum extractor made by Tempo (now Moeller, I think), and it always extracted at least 4 qts from the W60. Using the same extractor I'm lucky to get 2 qts out of the Yanmar, and that requires multiple pumping. With the W60 I just pumped the extractor about a dozen times then went away for 10 minutes. When I came back the extractor contained 4 qts of oil.
With the Yanmar it appears I cannot get the thin tube of the extractor completely into the oil sump, so the tube is sucking air along with oil from the start. I've tried using a 1/2″ ID instead of the insertion hose. I softened it a bit with a heat gun, then forced it over the outside of the dipstick tube. I had been told the dipstick tube goes completely to the bottom of the sump, but that does not appear to be the case because I once more go a lot of air into the tube and even less oil.Any 4JH owner out there successfully using an extractor system that removes the bulk of the oil?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Oh, ah, my bad. Here's the thing with me, though. Contact cement is an invitation to ruining whatever I'm wearing, peeling little flakes of cement and skin from my hands, face, and hair for at least a week, and turning whatever I was gluing into a sticky mess. I am very bad with it. I do sew. The foot does not leave enough room for me to get any interesting parts of my body under the needle. 🙂
Bob
On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,No one is suggesting flying one nation's courtesy flag in another country. I think that quote I passed along was referring to the fact that some skippers might fly a host country's national flag when their courtesy flag rule specifies an ensign. That sort of thing.
The reason I included contact cement in the make-your-own-flags list is because I don't sew much. I glued the various pieces of fabric together for all the courtesy flags I made and they held up very well. Still have most of them. Of course if you do sew, all the better.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
My good friend, Cory, who is a 500 ton oceans unlimited captain has told me that not only is it proper to fly a courtesy flag but that it is required. Flying the wrong one is much worse than not flying one at all (imagine flying the Israeli flag in say, Yemen, because you don't have a Yemenese flag).
Your idea of making them on the fly is absolutely spectacular! I may have to get a sewing machine for the boat for just that reason. I have a home machine, but if you're going to do it, you might as well have one capable of fixing sails, don't you think?
I only recently bought the full set of flags and have not yet hoisted any of them.
Courtesy flags are supposed to be flown from the starboard main mast spreader.
Now you know all I know, much of which might be wrong.
Bob
On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 9:28 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks for that lesson, Bob. I haven't hoisted a pig stick yet because I haven't made the flag yet – it's on The List – so I'm glad to know how that staff stays upright.As for it being arcane, I suppose there is a little smugness to it. Mainly, though, I fly non-essential flags for the plain fun of it. For special holidays, I occasionally employ signal flags to spell out some appropriate word like “F-R-E-E-D-O-M” on July 4th, or “S-A-I-L-N-A-K-E-D” at Antigua Race Week. Far be it from me to take all this too seriously.
I also carry a bagful of scrap spinnaker fabric, which most sailmakers will be happy to give you from their big pile of the stuff. Those scraps, plus scissors, contact cement, indelible magic markers, a grommet set, and a book of world flags that includes national ensigns, will enable you to make your own courtesy flags before you arrive in foreign ports. I've made a score of them over the years. Once they're hoisted no-one can tell their homemade. It's not only frugal, but sometimes it's the only way to have the requisite flag available to hoist when the Q-flag comes down.
Here is a little more arcana for you, from flagspot.net: “There seems to be no general rule about courtesy flags. Some countries that have a civil ensign and a national flag consider the national flag appropriate, others that it is the civil ensign which should be flown. Some ships don't bother with courtesy flags, some fly the wrong one through ignorance, and some fly the wrong flag (because) that is the only one they have onboard, (considering it to be) better than no flag.”
Right.
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Dan,
The pigstick has two eyes on it – upper and lower – that the halyard is attached to. When raised to the truck, the upper eye stops on the block and the lower one, near or at the bottom is made fast with the stick vertical. That's all there is to it.
Bob
On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 7:54 AM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Being one that enjoys arcane marine flag etiquette (flying one's own pennant on the mizzen would be a pleasure enjoyed by few), how exactly is a pigstick attached so that a vertical mount can be attained?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
Ok, you made me research this. From WikiPedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truck_(rigging) . It is (was) a fitting at the top of the mast for flag halyards. Here's what Merriam-Webster has to say about trucks: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/truck%5B3%5D
I find from that entry it actually does refer to the sheaves for the flag halyards (little wheels). From the term 'truckle'.
What I'm getting at is there really is a part called the truck and it is the very opposite of the foot.
All this by the way of giving you much more information than you need, wanted, or cared about. I've been using the term for the unit that holds all the sail halyard sheaves – I was in the right area but the wrong part of that area.
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 6:21 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:“Truck” is a term I picked up from some flag etiquette sources. For all practical purposes, I think it means the masthead. A personal pennant or “private signal” is properly flown from the mizzen masthead on a ketch, normally hoisted by a “pig stick,” a flagstaff on a halyard. I figure to use the mizzen staysail halyard for this since it's not used very often for its true purpose.
FYI, Wikipedia defines pig stick this way: “A pig stick is a staff that carries a flag or pennant, usually the burgee of the boat owner's yacht club, above a mast of a sailboat, it's connected to a halyard so when it's raised the top of the mast, the 'pig stick' extends above the mast allowing the flag to be seen flying above the boat's sails.”
And just to keep things perfectly clear and literally (if not politically) correct, the Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “pigstick” this way: “To hunt the wild boar on horseback with a spear.” Take your pick.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Patrick,
The truck of the mast is the set of fittings at the top that include the halyard sheaves and stay tangs (for the mizzen, that would be the running backstays and the fairweather or triatic stay. The trucks on our masts are welded on. On some, they are removable.
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 5:03 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Did you mean mizzen trUck or mizzen trAck? I've never heard of a mizzen truck… but I'm not that bright either.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jeez, Pete, that must have been some job! Removing formica is not for the faint of heart…
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 2:58 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I removed and replace the formica in my head. I used white on the horizontal surfaces and a pattern selected by the Admiral for the verticals. It looks great and I would recommend it highly over paint.
Pete
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
I knew you painted some of the formica and had had experience with that. I thought you used a vinyl paint (not painting the vinyl), but as you point out, de de de, I was wrong. 🙂
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 10:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,You've got the wrong Tor. I haven't painted the vinyl wall covering in my boat's head, nor have I painted anything around the water tanks. I did paint a lot of the mustard-colored Formica surfaces (and some of the teak veneer) in the boat with Petit EasyPoxy one-part polyurethane topside paint, which worked out very well.
Don't know what sticks to vinyl, but I recall someone on here told us last year.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Howard,
Unless they've been painted, they are formica. Tor (Silverheels) has had experience with vinyl paint – he used it on the verticals inboard of the water tanks. In either case, there are vinyl paints that will stick.
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 9:53 AM, howard < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The White walls in the head, it is not formica i dont think but am not sure if paint will stick.
howard—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Uh, forward head? Or forward bulkhead of head?
Bob
On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 8:53 AM, howard < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The buckheads in the forward head need painting. What material are they and what would be the proper way to paint them.
It is truly amazing what some people will do to a perfectly good wall.
thanks
Howard—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Linus,
You are a god! Listen, if you can't post them, then I'll let the list use my ftp site. Let me know.
Bob
On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 3:46 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have tried to send them and my isp says that they are to large. The smallest is 7.75 mb. Is there an easy way to post them to the web page?Linus
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Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have the ketch blueprints and even a wiring diagram which I'll tell you now is nearly useless.
Bob
On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 5:59 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Me too.
Quent—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks Tor! I'll contact Electric Bob real soon! The sold out thing? It's because all the 424 owners are buying them!
Bob
On Sun, Nov 30, 2008 at 8:10 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,You're welcome to ask the guru about shipping:
Electric Bob
B & H Electric
144-E Industrial Loop
Orange Park, FL 32073
phone: (904) 269-7052
Email: ()The Xantrex is advertised at http://www.manventureoutpost.com/marine/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6122 . However, just as I was about to order it there appeared a Sold Out icon on the page (scroll down to see it). I emailed the store and the manager said he'd check on the availability and get back to me. Hopefully, I'll know tomorrow if/when I can get it from them. There are other online sources, of course, for a little more money. West Marine was one of the most expensive on the Internet.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
Will your guru ship a setup? Also, where did you find the Xantrex?
Thanks,
Bob
On Sat, Nov 29, 2008 at 8:38 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Alan,
You're right about the quality of The Battery Shack's alternators, but mistaken about their pricing. In the course of researching what I'm going to install, I called them yesterday and talked to the owner, Roger. Nice guy. Knows his stuff. He's selling the same Delco CS-130 alternator, painted to inhibit rust, for $299 that I'm getting from my local guru for circa $200, similarly painted. That alternator comes standard with an internal regulator. Not a bad regulator, but limited compared to a programmable external “smart” regulator. Roger told me it would cost me an additional $300 to have his Delco with an external smart regulator. However, I had already found a Xantrex XAR 12 regulator online for $175 + $10 shipping.
So, The Battery Shack's price for the 105-amp alternator, painted, w/external smart regulator = +/- $600 (plus shipping?)
My price via local electronics guru, including the alternator painted while disassembled, + external smart regulator from my own online source = around $400 (including shipping).
This is not to disparage The Battery Shack. On my own I had already decided to use the same excellent equipment they sell, and I certainly don't begrudge the guy for making a living. I'm just pointing out that, for the budget-conscious cruiser, there are better prices available for the same parts.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Aaron,
I assume you're asking me where the 3rd battery is – it's in the locker aft of the water heater. There is room for 2 4Ds there, and I expect to replace my group 31 emergency battery with a 4th 4d. More on that later.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
