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Patrick.
Nice job on the composting head install. I originally installed mine on top of the original platform, but I am going to remove it and install it on the floor like yours.
One comment on the toilet paper usage. You had mentioned on the SSCA Board that you had tried throwing the paper in the composting bin a few times and then stopped. Based on my experience, the paper can go in the bin with no problems. It does take a week or so to break down, but it will disappear over time. If you are at all concerned, use single ply paper – it will disappear in no time!!
(Charmin Extra Strong would be a big problem on the boat – my neighbor recently plugged up his septic tank with it!!)
The composting head needs a source of carbon to be properly balanced. If you don’t add the paper, you just need to add more coir or peat moss. As an experiment this spring, I was trying different carbon sources and tried using newspaper torn up into 1″ squares ( I figured it may be easier to get than coir or peat moss while out cruising). Even this mainly disappeared in a couple of weeks, so regular toilet paper should be no problem.
Paul
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Tor:
Walter sent out an e-mail back in Jan/08 on the additional of insulation to the icebox in Hull #1. Since this is before the BB was established, I have posted a copy below that you may find helpful. Also,as he indicates, there are some pictures on the website:
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/IceboxNote that he used isocyanurate foam. This foam has the advantage of being R6.5 per inch versus R5.0 for blueboard. However, it does have the disadvantage of being capable of adsorbing moisture over time, so it does need to be sealed properly. Walter used fiberglass sheeting to seal the foam.
Even with 2″ of foam added, the box still seemed to be plenty big enough. When I was on the boat over a total period of 5 weeks over this past fall /winter. I don’t recall the fridge temps ever to be a reason to run the engine run system. It was usually the batteries that need energy first. With this added insulation, it seemed to have good hold-over times.
Paul
Walter wrote:
“For anyone who may be interested, I am in the process of re-insulating the icebox of #1, and thought I would share my experience so far. I put a few photos on the pearson424.org site. So far, it is a remarkably easy process. The dimensions of the box from the factory are such that 2″ of foam added to the inside of the box works very conveniently to cover the existing ledges for the old shelf and bring the sides out flush with the inside of the opening. This should make for relatively easy trimming of the opening, and formation of a new sealing surface. Also, fitting the foam through the opening is not much of a problem, you just hinge the larger parts. I have not used any adhesive to hold the foam in place, and I don’t think I will. It is not hard to cut it so it fits very snugly, and interlocks in the corners. I will glue the liner to the foam. If the project fails in some way, I will only need to remove the foam. I plan to line the box with the cheap fiberglass sheets sold in home improvement stores (usually used as an alternative to tile). $36/sheet, very sanitary, and quite tough. There is not a lot of reinforcing glass, but it can take a pretty good impact. I am cutting it with tin snips, which makes the trimming and fitting easier. It will probably ruin my snips, but that is an acceptable cost. I covered the old drain, thinking that it could work to drain any moisture/condensation/leakage that gets out of the new, inner box. I will likely create a new drain in the inner box, drilling out through the old box. Trimming around the Grunnert plates and copper lines is working out well. The lines come in low in the box, so they should be waterproofed. I intend to accomplish this by adding more insulation around the lines to effectively move the entry point up. I will explain this in pictures as I do it. I have no specific question, but welcome thoughts and comments.”Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus:
Here is the link of the sheave company John mentioned:
http://www.zephyrwerks.com/Paul
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Alan:
As I think you know, Rich Boren installed the same setup as you are attempting on his 365. He was able to get it in the port locker. It looks like he added the alternator after getting it down there. However, I think you have your propane tanks in the location he put his in. You may want to ask him how he feels about the setup now that he has used it for a season in Mexico. I do know that he has also purchased a 2000i so that he could run an air conditioner on the boat as well.
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/svthirdday/?xjMsgID=60564
Paul
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Tor:
I am pretty sure John was probably talking about using silicone grease, which is pretty good for protecting electrical connections, among other things:
http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm
http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htmPaul
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Walter, on his recent 6 month trip through the Caribbean, kept his Engel the whole time at the base of the Main Salon companionway. It seemed to work pretty good there, once you got used to the fact that you lost the bottom step of the ladder.
The ladder was also a good spot to tie it too when heading offshore, as it will want to move from there on starboard tack. The only real disadvantage of this location is when you get green water coming through the companionway when on this tack offshore. Speaking of which, has anybody made a snap on cover for the Main Salon companionway for use offshore.
“I have mine forward of the salon table on the starboard side. I’ve also kept it against the forward bulkhead of the nav station as well. I have 12v sockets installed in both places.Bob”
Paul
Chesapeake for a couple of weeks.
We leave Friday for a clockwise DelMarVa circumnavigation.
Our refrigerator on the boat works great but we have very limited freezer space.
The Admiral was considering using dry ice to extend the time we could have some meats on board. The brochure on dry ice says don’t use it in a working refrigerator…. anybody know why?
Rick
Eclipse #73
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Lee:
Since you have received recommendations for both Lexan and Plexiglass, both of which have different advantages and drawbacks (as with all things boating), here is a discussion comparing the 2 that may be of interest, so you can decide which best fits your situation:
http://ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5106&
Paul
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John:
We will keep in touch. If we happen to catch up to you, it would be great to get a photo of hulls #1 & #2 rafted up together. They probably haven’t been that close since they left the factory 31 years ago.
Paul
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Alan:
My 3 waterline cockpit drains have Marlon “like” valves on plastic thru-hulls. However, I am not sure what real benefit these valves have. You can’t close then when you leave the boat, so no benefit there. In the very unlikely event that new quality hose or double hose clamps fail while on that tack, you just change tacks and put a wood plug in.
I would be more concerned about having my plastic thru-hull breaking than having anything after the valve break. You shouldn’t have that concern with the bronze thru-hulls that you are looking at (by the way – Discount Marine has them for $9 cheaper than Jamestown:)
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Thru_Hulls_Adapters-CONBRACO_90_DEGREE_THRU_HULL_FITTING.html
I was having a closer look at my drains, wondering what had been replaced already. I noticed that the hose looked fairly new, and upon closer inspection, I see that it is Shields Fire – ACOL Type A2 fuel hose. I am not sure why the PO went with that, as it is fairly expensive. I am now wondering how good it is for sea-water?? The good news is it is pretty new as it is ISO 7840 2003, which should mean it is less than 6 years old.
Paul
Boundless #28The question I am wrestling with, according to ABYC standards, anything below the water line at max heel, needs a proper sea cock. Now, for 30 plus years these plastic fittings have been there with no sea cock and have done just fine. I am trying to justify the cost of 3 new 1 1/2″ sea cocks and hasle of putting them in, backing pads and all.
Just do it and shut up?
alan–
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Tor:
These should do the trick:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311409|311441&id=1061229
Paul
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John:
I think Walter switched to IMIS when he went offshore this last fall/winter. One other issue that came up was the requirement for a survey of the boat for offshore. This added a whole additional list of things to get done before heading off. If you are going to have to do the same thing, make sure time is on your side.
Paul
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Tor:
This same topic was discussed around this time last year on the SSCA site. In addition to the JB Weld you have used, other options mentioned were aluminum pop rivets, Marine Tex, or tapping (not required in your case) and inserting short machine screws.
http://ssca.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5960&hilit=mast+holes
Paul
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Adam:
I asked that know-it-all, Mr Google, and he came up with the following answer from our “good” friends at Rigrite:
However, I see that these are black. My original ones are white as well. At least black is easier to keep clean 🙂
Paul
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I was planning on adding some cargo netting, maybe 2 inch square openings. Permanently attach it on the inside bottom and attach the top on the inside with hooks or perhaps closures like the ones used on sunbrella. You could reach in through the openings to unhook or open them. You would only need to have the up when offshore, just like your lee cloths.
Paul
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I was planning on adding some cargo netting, maybe 2 inch square openings. Permanently attach it on the inside bottom and attach the top on the inside with hooks or perhaps closures like the ones used on sunbrella. You could reach in through the openings to unhook or open them. You would only need to have the up when offshore, just like your lee cloths.
Paul
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