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The young guy needs a bit of basic electrical/physics knowledge. The
oldtimer was right.The Motorola alternators are work horses that are easy and in expensive
to repair. They can also be converted to higher output units by
changing the windings. That is what the Ample Power folks do to make
their great alternators.Pete
On 10/5/2012 8:23 AM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Quote:The voltage regulator had gone bad and I took the alternator to the shop here for testing. When they bench tested it dragged the motor that powered the tester down before reaching 120. The young guy working there said it must be bad. The old guy said it was too powerful for the equipment. They normally didn’t test alternators that big. I think the old guy was right. After the new voltage regulator was installed it worked great.
I included the regulator with the alternator. It is just a standard automotive type. Hope you get it soon
UPS tracking 1z608w660301543015Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Oct 5, 2012, at 9:47 AM, wrote:
Quote:The W60 came with two possible alternators, the stock 60A unit and an optional 120A unit. Perhaps Chuck was referring to the 60A unit? As I recall, the 120A unit I had put out about 120A until the batteries came up to 14.2v. The alternator eventually went bad and was replaced. I think it overheated.Rich
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While you are there check out:
– Sailors Solutions – sale on SensiBulbs (lowest price ever anywhere)
and on Wi-Fi antenna/amplifier/router kit
– Blue Water Sailing – Subscription $10 discount (or ask for the friends
of Pete Dubler/Pearson 424 Owners rate which I think is even better)Pete
On 10/4/2012 10:06 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
I’ll be up on Sunday.
Chuck
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Joe,
When you have the pan off, (and the engine out), take the time to
plastigage the bearings and the check the clearances on the oil pump.Pete
On 9/30/2012 7:16 AM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Well, my 1995 Westerbeke 71hp engine appears to have a rusted oil pan and is leaking oil.I am preparing to pull the engine to replace it-back ordered until Oct 14th[bummer].
One mechanic suggested it may be possible to unbolt the engine and just lift the transmission side of the engine to get access to the pan.Anyone ever try this?
What is the best way to pull the engine? Thanks for suggestions.Any precautions ?
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before you go too far, check the volt meter itself by using another
meter at the battery directly.’
PeteOn 9/29/2012 4:04 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Jack,
Sounds to me like you may have two problems.1. The Balmar is not outputing a full charge to your house bank. You
don’t say what type of battery you have in the house bank, but no matter
the type the charge voltage should be over 14V. I would suspect a fault
or set-up problem in the regualator. The battery voltage should drop down
to below 12.9 shortly after the charging stops. So this sounds normal.
What is the voltage when on shore power?
2. The battery monitor shows a significant discharge when everything is
turned off. I assume this a just a couple of amps and all of the breakers
on the panel are off. In that case I would look at the circuits that do
not go through the panel breakers (SSB radio?). However, first I would
insure the battery monitor is installed and working properly.Good luck.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
More questions….
How old are you batteries?
Did you check the water level in the batteries?
When were the batteries last equalized?If you do not now own these books, I highly recommend them.
Nigel Calder: Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual
Don Casey: Sailboat Electrics Simplified
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hello everyone,
The problems that I’m having are on the DC side of things. When running
the engine all day, the house bank only gets up toabout 13.3 V, Thenwhen
I sut it down it drops to 12.9 and lower quite fast, in an hour or two.
This happens when there is basicaly nothing on. The same thing happens
after being hooked up to shore-side power or a generator.
The starter battery is no problem @ 14.5 V.
I had both alternators rebuilt in May, the house bank is charged by a
Balmar 100 amp. and the start battery is charged by a 40 amp boshe. Iput
a new voltage regulator in for the Balmar in August. The start battery
was
new in April, the windlas/bow thruster battery new in June and the house
bank new in August.
In May I had a guy do some work on the boat and one of the thinggs he put
in was a BEP Marine DC/AC meter and it tells you the charging rate aswell
the discharging rate and it shows something is drawing a lot of amps, and
this is with everything shut off.
I don’t know where or how to look for the problem.Bill I will give you a call tomorrow morning. I’m in Jackson’s Creek
right
in front of the marina.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Jack,
Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of
items?
I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great
ideas
for tracking them down and dealing with them.
Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…
Bob
On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little
while
and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed
back
in
May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it.
My
electrical skills are very basic.
Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolkarea
that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as
we
are
en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today
and
Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so pleasebare
with me on replies.
Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Indeed, it was John’s design of the dog house that inspired me.
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.Pete
On 9/21/2012 3:37 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:I also used the sound proof tiles from Sailor’s Solutions. Much easier to
work with than rolls of foam commonly used. As they advertise the adhesive
is very aggressive, no need for mechanical fasteners, although that is
still an option. I’ve only sound proofed the engine box cover, not the
area aft of the cover. Since the engine area is open to the bilge you will
never completely quiet the noise, but the Sailor’s Solution stuff works
great.
Like Pete, I rebuilt the engine box cover so I could break it down into
four flat pieces: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htmRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 2:54 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:West marine sells a 1 in and (1 1/2 inch or 2 inch) thick sheets of sound
proofing with hardware for mounting. Material is similar to the
deepplaya.com material.S
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Here is a picture of my new engine enclosure with that new insulation.
(The stainless “z” had not yet been installed when this was taken).
This “dog house”, as you can see has a separate top that hinges up and a
front that hinges down to the sole. Also the sides are on hinges. All
are of the quick removal type so you can stack the four panels out of
the way if you need to work on the engine in any major way. Also, there
is a door in the top to access the dip stick and do some visual
inspection without having to take stuff off the top of the dog house.
More details in the “ten wishes” article here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Regina_Oceani.htmlPete
On 9/21/2012 12:23 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
I gotta post for that!
http://deepplaya.com/engine-sound-proofing/
-p
Sent from my Land Yacht
On Sep 21, 2012, at 2:12 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
I just removed the sound proofing insulation with vinyl/foam between 2
layers of fire retardant shiney outer layers.I guess with age the foam has
deteriorated and now scatters all over the engine compartment -little black
flakes.
Is there anything out there that is better for a replacement.Is the sound
proofing really that effective- would appreciate some thoughts and comments.
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Joe,
I did an analytic evaluation of sound insulation in an installation on
my 424 several years ago which ran in Blue Water Sailing. I used the
sound insulation from Sailors’ Solutions which comes in 12″ square
self-adhesive pieces. The “foil” is a very thick material unlike the
junk on most boats that looks like a think tin foil. The foam itself is
also made of layers of different densities that absorb the sound in
different frequency ranges so you get more optimal sound damping. It
is important that you actually enclose or separate the engine
compartment from the cabin. One key element of this was closing off the
“chimney” that goes up the aft bulkhead of the cabin over the engine.
Also, you want a good seal between the top of the dog house and the
sides. I used some stainless steel bent in a “z” shape to cover the top
edge of the insulation on the sides – this protects the edge of the foam
and then the foam on the dog house top sets down on this stainless and
forms a nice seal.Bottom line: definitely worth it with this particular insulation.
PeteOn 9/21/2012 12:12 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
I just removed the sound proofing insulation with vinyl/foam between 2 layers of fire retardant shiney outer layers.I guess with age the foam has deteriorated and now scatters all over the engine compartment -little black flakes.
Is there anything out there that is better for a replacement.Is the sound proofing really that effective- would appreciate some thoughts and comments.
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Air from the bilge to the cabin… not sure that is the right
smellerific solution.How about putting the unit under the pullman berth and vent the hot air
out to the lazarettes.That space behind the water tanks is very narrow and hard to work in.
(I was just there drilling holes for air conditioning water hoses and
wires (one of the compressors is going in the port aft locker behind
what was the settee cushion).Best of luck,
Pete
On 9/19/2012 5:42 AM, quent wrote:
Hello All-
Looking around for a location to mount a new refrigeration compressor. Clairebuoyant is a two companionway, “U” shaped galley layout.
My question for those of you who have gotten deeper into their P-424 than I have:
On the starboard side, there is a space aft of the settee built-in water tank and forward of the half bulkhead at the companionway. Is there a similar space on the port side? If so, any estimate of the dimensions would be helpful. I’m looking to duct air from the bilge to cool the condenser and exhaust it into the cabin. We are installing two systems, separate freezer and refrigerator, and would like to avoid extension tubing set.
Thanks!
Quent
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Brilliant as always Tor!
Pete
On 9/6/2012 5:36 AM, Silverheels wrote:
sh_bimini_5-labeled.jpg
sh_bimini_2-labeled.jpg
sh_bimini_1-labeled.jpg
sh_bimini_3-labeled.jpg
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Brilliant as always Tor!
On 9/6/2012 5:36 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Jack,
A roller furling mizzen sail would probably be as handy as a roller
furing main, with the same performance compromize of a sail with no
roach. That’s a personal judgment call. But it would be ashame to switch
just because your bimini top is in the way.For some reason I cannot fathom, I seem to be the only one among us –
and as far as I’ve seen, the only one in the world – with a bimini that
actually works with an aft cockipit ketch (photos attached). It makes
handling the mizzen sail quick and easy, so I fly mine often. The only
down side is that the zippers leak a little in heavy rain. Ergo I made a
bimini tent fly, which keeps out rain but precludes using the mizzen
sail, so it’s only useful in port.Because I sail in the Caribbean, my bimini top is primarily a sun shade
and the zipper leaks aren’t a huge issue. In the Pacific Northwest you’d
probably want a completely rainproof roof over the cockpit so my
zip-flap bimini design would not be ideal – unless there’s a way to
waterproof the zippers that I don’t know about.Sailboat Rule Number 1: Everything is a compromise.
Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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When I had a W58, I ran a 140 amp alternator on double A belts. No
problems at all.When you say you are have trouble keeping in belts, what is the pattern
of the failures? Are they edge worn? Double check that the pulleys are
co-planar and that the belts are not bottoming out in the pulleys (wrong
width of belt).Good luck,
Pete
On 9/5/2012 6:04 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
I have a Westerbeke 58 and I’m having a devil of a time keeping in belts
for the alternator (65 amp). I think I need either two belts (and a bigger
alternator) or a wide serpentine belt – has anyone done that? How do you
lot put 100 amp alternators on without belt slippage? I have the extension
pulley on the crankshaft, but it’s so far away from the engine I’d have to
build a new bracket to use it for anything.All suggestions helpful and desirable!
Thanks,
Bob
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I put some 6 x 20″ New Found Metal ports in the head and shower. They
were actually about 1/2″ wider than the shower… that is the inside
flange was too wide. I machined a 1/4″ off each side on my
drill/mill. I also had to cut a recess in the walls to accept the tang
of the dogs on the ends. But now that it is in and trimmed out, it
looks pretty good. (see detail picture attached) The 20″ wide ports
are about twice as expensive as the 5 x 12’s in the salon. The glass is
thicker, the frame is built up of multiple pieces welded together,
instead of a single piece casting, and there are four dogs instead of two.The one over the sink does not open completely before it hits the lights
mounted above the head.Overall, I would say that putting in the ports and redoing the cabin
sides inside with white formica to match the ceiling was one of the
better appearance improvements on the boat (after painting.The article on the installation was in BWS a month or two ago.
Pete
On 8/20/2012 8:49 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
This post on putting in our New Found Metals portlights might be
helpful. we also had dry rot in teh teak veneer. Our coverup went
well, but we were wrong about it never getting wet and will need to
redo some of it. New rule, don’t try to save a penny by using
non-marine grade plywood!!http://deepplaya.com/new-portlights/
There are other posts and pics in our flickr account too.
-p
Sent from my Land Yacht
On Aug 20, 2012, at 6:36 PM, Jim Ashworth wrote:
i discovered dry rot under the fixed portlights in the head and
shower….removed them to get at the rot, and will repair that either by
replaciing the plywood, or go to starboard in there. The ports have a
cutout of 7.5″ by 21.5″; I’m thinking about replacing them with opening
ports…..anyone do that? Recommend a manufacturer and dimensions of
replacement that worked? Or if I put the originals back in, where do I get
the gasket material that goes between port and outside fiberglass? Jim
Ashworth. Hull 32 (Peregrine)On Friday, June 29, 2012, wrote:
Charlie
I did a web-search for marine stores that carry portlight gaskets andfound one online that sells a square gasket of the proper dimension. It
took a bit of hunting but you should be able to do the same search and find
them. I’m sorry I don’t have their contact information handy. I purchased
enough material to do the job twice. I have enough onhand to replace the
gaskets again in about 10 years.Quote:Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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Thanks Tor!
On 8/3/2012 4:38 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,The guy who took over my yacht dealership in Rhode Island will know
who’s best among the surveyors up there these days. My experience is
that there are huge differences between them, and usually only one or
two per region who are really good. In the Newport area it used to be
Tony Knowles, but I’ve been away for years. Tell your friend to check
with:Josh Hodgson
Anchor Yacht & Ship Sales(401) 246-2100
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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yup. what I like about this is that no lighter socket is needed.
On 7/31/2012 5:22 AM, quent wrote:Found something similar that plugs into 12vdc lighter socket and outputs usb. Great for charging cell phones.
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Rich,
You may have me and Quent confused…
My two refrigeration systems seem to be intact. Will see when we launch
again. I have a Rich Beer’s system on the engine and a 12V Grunert
system. These drive two double coil holding plates in a flow-over box.
The engine system is on a wind-up 60-minute timer and it pretty much
freezes the plates solid in that time. The 12V system has the
Sensi-Stat that I designed for SCADtech on it which tops of the plates
when extra power is available (eg the engine is running). This saves a
lot on dedicated engine or generator running time for charging
batteries. When I put the Beta engine in, I replaced the seals on the
engine compressor and of course manufactured a new mounting system.
Never had any problems with the flexible lines. I run Hotshot as the
refrigerant for both system. This is about equal to R-12 in performance
but environmentally approved.The DC5000 system would have no trouble freezing the plates but it ain’t
no $400 system… What are they selling for a $400 replacement unit?Pete
On 7/31/2012 7:27 AM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
I have an engine-driven Grunert system on BlackSheep. It was an original option from the factory on the 424. I wonder if yours was originally engine-driven and converted to 12v. I have a love-hate relationship with it. When it works, it works great. Its been a maintenance item however. Most of my problems were related to the Tecumseh compressor or the rubber hoses that connect to it. I replaced the compressor and hoses with a Sanden unit when I repowered five years ago and have had no problems since. Its about a 6 horsepower compressor. Within 30 minutes of operation, the cooler is cold enough to refrigerate beer. After running the engine for about 3 hours, the freezer plates are completely frozen and the thermostatic cutout switch shuts it off. I have to be careful not to freeze everything in the refrigerator. Other than maintenance, the other issue is that if you have shore power, an engine-driven system doesn’t make sense. I almost never have shore power however so it works for me.If you’re very handy with wrenches and want to keep your Grunert system, I can give you some guidance on repairs. If you have a spare couple of boat units, you might contact seafrost and speak to them about a replacement. They might be able to just replace your condenser and compressor. They list a replacement unit for about $400. You might need additional parts. I’m not sure that a 12v compressor would be well mated to a holding plate system however. They work well when the compressor is very large and only runs for a short period each day. Most 12v compressors are too small for this kind of service. A 115v unit might work since the compressor would be larger than a 12v system. Grunert has a 115v compressor.
Your refrigeration gas is probably all gone. When the compressor goes, it usually leaks.
Regards
Rich
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