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Got mule? Got pics?
On 10/21/2011 9:10 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Mules rule!
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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It is also a great light wind supplemental sail. When you are hanging
every handkerchief and towel to grab the wind, don’t forget the miz ss.But yes, wonderful on a reach.
Another sail I love but don’t have on our 424 (yet) is a mule. This is
a sail that goes between the miz and main masts up high. On a simple
furler. I crewed several times on this Whitby 42 (before it was
refurbished) that had one. It is great for stabilizing the boat in
rolling seas but needs to come down early. Here is a link that show it
in use:
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/bluestocking/?xjMsgID=11590Pete
On 10/20/2011 9:37 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
AWESOME on a beam reach…. but what isn’t 😉
Generally we use it when we’re on any reach that isn’t very deep, once it’s
too deep it’s blanketing the main.
You can also use it in combination with the jib without the main, but I’ve
not done that much at all yet… have to play around.There is precious little written about proper sailing and trimming of
ketches. I was going to write to this maritime museum in England if see if
they had any older references… still on the to do list. 😉I’d love to hear what everyone else has to say.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Oct 20, 2011 at 7:07 PM, kalinowskiwrote:
Finally dug deep in the sail bags and am getting out the mizzen staysail.
This one is new to me (our 424 is my first ketch). When is the best time to
hoist this one? What are the benefits/drawbacks? Air here in the Sandwich
Isles is usually 15-18 daily.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Patrick,
When you say “he”, which of their folks are you referring to.
I find Teri who answers the phone (she) to be very, very helpful.Pete
On 10/18/2011 5:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:We love ours, haven’t put in the screens yet. We had the advantage of being
able to stop in in Port Townsend and having him come down and personally
assist replacing a bad gasket. I was happy he was going to drop it off. On
the phone he would be very difficult to talk to, in person he’s eccentric to
say the least. 😉Our prices in 2009 were:
5×12 $209
3×17 $359.82I ordered others as well… but those are the only prices I have handy.
Rent the templates and buy the counter bore, its very turnkey with his
tools.We had leaks with just the hull and teak thickness. We attributed this to
not cutting the holes big enough. You want them to flat on the butyl and a
barely thick enough cross section. We’re popping them out and putting in the
teak spacers when we’re bored. Ya know we have the parts and we’re never
going to do it. 😉Some people have complained about the quality of the teak spacers, if you
get them, you might ask about that which would make them play closer
attention.Best of luck
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 3:54 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:thanks. I will address this with them.On 10/18/2011 4:17 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:put them in in 09, just before I left on my trip. I talked to the owner, a
tough guy to get a hold of and told him what I thought. I think they were
making some changes. But too late for me.alan
— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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thanks. I will address this with them.
On 10/18/2011 4:17 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:put them in in 09, just before I left on my trip. I talked to the owner, a tough guy to get a hold of and told him what I thought. I think they were making some changes. But too late for me.alan
— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Alan,
How old are your 6 x 20’s?
Pete
On 10/18/2011 3:56 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I dont’ remember the price. and the 5×9’s I think the 6×20’s suck. The screens are different and have a gap around them. Not sealed tight like the small ones. Also, the way the big ones are manufactured, I get rust stains in places where it looks like they did some machining. The small ones do not do that.
alan— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Somewhere around here I have a multi-step recipe for prop coating. The
next time I see it, I promise to post it to the group. It worked really
well on my Maxprop.Pete
On 10/17/2011 4:45 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Joe, I am in Deltavlille Va. at the moment. I should be leaving next week. Hope to be in Fla. in the latter part of Nov or 1st week in Dec. Going to Stuart then to Nassau.I used just the zinc primer on my prop and shaft and thought it worked pretty darn good. Spent a season in the eastern Carrib and the Bahamas.
alan— On Mon, 10/17/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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Did you install a separate metal shoe on your skeg Tor?
On 10/17/2011 3:38 PM, Silverheels wrote:
I’m about to barrier-coat Silverheels’ bottom after letting it dry out
all summer. Thinking I’ll also paint the epoxy over the bronze prop
shaft strut and skeg shoe, and then paint them with anti-fouling. Has
anyone done this? Any opinions on the best primer for bronze for keeping
bottom paint on it? I’ve read about zinc primers, but since I’m putting
on the epoxy barrier coat anyway…Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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According to the calculations done when I was researching a new engine,
accounting for transmission/v-drive losses, etc., it takes about 36 HP
going into the velvet drive to achieve hull speed of a 424.And there are between 55 and 74 million bubbles in the average bottle of
champagne (sparkling wine)… a fact you will probably get more utility
out of at New Year’s Eve parties…Pete
On 10/14/2011 8:53 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:There is no right or wrong here. To accept the current shortcomings of
electric proplusion, you only have to start at the other end of the
spectrum, i.e., with a pure sailboat. Back in the day that’s all there
was. Then came auxilliary engines meant to assist in tight
circumstances. Remember how comparitively small they used to be? Their
function was essentially to move the boat around in harbor, not to power
through anything and everything, 24/7. Today we cruise in, if not
motor-sailers, then sailer-motorers. We rely on our engines. But that’s
just a state of mind. You can cruise without. The Pardy’s did; so did
many others not so long ago (including me for a few years aboard my
engineless Ketch Autant). Starting from that point, from a plain
sailboat, a 25-30 hp auxilliary propulsion system becomes a terrific
asset. It’s a matter of perspective, and of what you seek from sailing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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What we need here is to find a diesel Prius and take it apart…
On 10/14/2011 7:33 PM, skipmac wrote:
I have been researching various electric drive systems for a couple of years and have to agree with Tor. For serious cruising I want at least 300 nm range plus enough reserve power to get me out of a jam if I need it.
The range requirement is achievable but will require a diesel genset, either direct DC or AC with a DC converter. However, without the genset to reach even 100-200 nm range under power would require enough batteries to replace all the ballast in the boat. Solar and wind, even at max, are not enough for continuous motoring except at very low speed.
Power is another thing. Electricyacht.com their biggest system is rated as equivalent to 23-30 HP engine, 18 continuous at the shaft. This is typical of most systems I have found.
Now you do lose a good bit in parasitic loads with a diesel, water pumps, alternator, transmission, etc but most estimates I see range 10-20% so a W58 would give at least 46 useable HP. With my original W58 I feel just a bit underpowered already, so to go with an equivalent electric of half that doesn’t seem right for my cruising plans.
Granted 99% of the time, motoring will be to leave the dock or make a few miles when the wind dies but there are those time when you need the power to punch into a head sea and wind or against a current in a tight channel where the extra HP could be critical.
Then there’s the bottom line. The 30 HP electricyacht system is equivalent to about 20 KW which is a big, expensive generator. Even going with a system with less HP than my W58, after adding the genset I would end up with double or triple the cost of a complete repower with diesel engine and transmission.
I love the idea but, for me, it is not yet ready for prime time but I’m hoping.
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I had the Link 2000 which can monitor two banks of batteries and has a
double shunt, one for each bank. I had the starter battery on one and
the house batteries on the other. I found very little value in
measuring the amps in/out of the starter battery, though having the
voltage is a bit useful. All that said, you need to decide what data is
most useful to you. I would proffer that monitoring the house battery
in/out is most valuable.Pete
On 10/12/2011 12:15 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Old truckers’ trick… don’t change the antifreeze, just suck off a pint
and add a pint of “water pump lube”. It contains the lubricants and
preservatives. Bar, Gunk, Prestone all sell it at the auto parts store.Pete
On 10/11/2011 7:44 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I had to replace my antifreeze so I used the Blue Oceans one from West
Marine – it’s polypropylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol so isn’t bad
for the environment. It meets or exceeds all manufacturer’s specifications
(or so it says on the jug). No matter what you use, you should expect to
change it every two years. The anti-corrosion additives don’t last any
longer than that anyway.Bob
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Time to renew my old antifreeze on my W58. I have always used the plain
green Prestone. Now I wonder if it might make sense to use the new Extended
Life Prestone which presumably gives longer protection. Anyone have
experience using this Prestone product?
They say it has no silicates or phosphates and is safe for aluminum?Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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A laminar flow of water can pool or drip from a rough spot, nib, or dent
and appear to be coming from that spot.I too am skeptical of it flowing all the way through the hull unless
there was an errant drill bit to blame… (I do know a fellow who did
drill a hole in the bottom of his boat while installing the sole and
working outboard within the boat…. a story he loves to tell.On 10/8/2011 6:24 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:If you can actually see water seeping through the fiberglass, then I
guess the leak is on the other (outer) side of that spot. Hard to
imagine. Are you sure it’s not coming from one of those other places, or
maybe a leaking thru-hull mounting base?
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Good thinking Joe.
Taste the water. Is it fresh (chlorinated) or salty?
On 10/8/2011 6:16 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:Did you have your water pressure on? I had a pin hole leak in one of the tubings to the shower and behind the shower.I only discovered it when it got bad enough to make a hissing noise.Figure out if the leak is city water or salt water.I agree with “Tonto” that with a prop shaft penetrating the hull,a rudder post,thru hulls,itis probably a leakyfitting as opposed to a leak in the hull or keel.All my leaks adding water to the bilge have been either rain water,water pressure system,or tubing connections bringing salt water into the boat for the head,AC,or Refrig cooling,or over filling the water tanks.________________________________
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Even hull condensation will work its way down to the bilge.
On 10/8/2011 5:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Has it rained lately where you are? Small amounts of rainwater trickle
into Silverheels’ sump bottom when it pours.If not, the likely culprits are (a) the prop shaft stuffing box, (b) the
rudder stuffing box, or (c) one of the aft thru-hull
hoses/fittings/related systems (i.e., V-drive, engine, etc).Suggest you clean and dry the bilge sump completely. Paint it white if
you haven’t already. Then see where the water’s coming from.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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