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Tor,
I have gone to 2.5 Nalgene jugs. They are easy to store and easy to
handle. You can find them surplus from dialysis clinics. I got ten for
$20 (instead of $80 each…)
Here is what they look like:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Scientific-Nalgene-Jerricans-Capacity/dp/B0017Y786WPete
On 10/3/2011 12:54 PM, Silverheels wrote:
I’m shopping for new 5-gallon jerry cans for carrying spare water and
spare diesel fuel on deck. I’d prefer blue for the water and yellow for
the diesel. There are several brands available online, but no clear way
to judge and compare the quality. Does anyone have or know the
strongest, most heavy-duty brand?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I plan to use formica for the same area instead of paint.
On 9/28/2011 2:34 PM, allantereshko wrote:
I have #216 (now “Curve of Time”) and she has a “C” layout. I removed the cabinete over the icebox to open up the interior and now I’m leaning toward painting the cabin sides above the finger rail up to the ceiling. I am reluctant to go over the stain and varnished sides, but the visual offered by the white sides is appealing. I saw some pics of Tor’s Silverheels with the white interior and I liked it. Any thoughts on the prep work and the paint to be used, e.g. urethane, enamel. shade of white, etc?
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Is your regulator set to the right battery type?
On 9/25/2011 9:53 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Not sure if I said or not but we tried to leave Coos Bay andhad to head back
due to additional problems with the charging, basically we were boiling our
startingf battery. Here’s a write up on what we think happened and how we
corrected it. May this not happen to you any of you… 🙂
http://deepplaya.com/?p=650-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Regarding plan B… why is it that when we parallel park a car if things
are not going quite right we pull out and start again but with a boat
you rarely see someone pull back out of the slip, reorganize, and start
again?On 9/24/2011 6:41 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Some of my best entertained afternoons have been in marinas or anchorages, watching the show. I never fail to give one or two myself.
The thing is to make it look like that was your plan, and that you executed it well……
But in any case, Planning and talking everything over with your crew well in advance works well. ALWAYS have a plan B. Pay attention to the wind and current and plan to use it to your advantage. Sometimes slow is your friend….. other times fast is better than getting caught in a crosswind. You have a powerful engine and big prop…..to get you out of trouble.
Try not to get yourself into a position that you will have trouble getting out of later…… Think 2 steps ahead.
Remember that it’s a long boat and the people in the bow can’t hear you – use good hand signals. It’s a heavy boat and can not be “Pulled” into the dock……Happy Docking
Alan— On Fri, 9/23/11, jamesminge wrote:
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Yes! As Patrick said… use spring lines. You can make a boat do just
about anything but roll over with spring lines. I love pulling out at
90% from a fuel dock with spring lines with a boat directly in front and
behind me or doing the same to come off a dock that I was otherwise
pinned to by the winds.Pete
On 9/23/2011 7:01 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Here’s what I do… try to avoid backing up as a means of navigation….
when I have to do I hand pushturn the boat from the dock as much as
possible because she just plain don’t like to be steered in reverse.We’ve gotten pretty good at warping the boat 180 degree on a side tie pier
or even t just 90 degrees before we head out.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 4:56 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I’m a new 424 owner, and recently had a devil of a time backing into a slip
facing north-south (stern was heading north), 10k east-southeast breeze.
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That’s also the principle that the water sensor in a Racor filter works
on. Water conducts better than diesel.On 9/22/2011 5:23 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Great switch, but carry a spare. They fail from time to time and I have
had them fail in both the always on and never on way.On 9/22/2011 3:11 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’t turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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For what it is worth, although Stewart Warner seems to be a venerable
brand, I have never had much success with their products. Back when I
raced cars I had their gauges fail and replaced them with VDOs, and even
VDO’s most economy brand, the “cockpit” series were always utterly
reliable and seemingly accurate.Also, for what it is worth, I am not a fan of mechanical gauges. There
are just too many opportunities for damage or failure. Another thing I
saw when racing cars was the blow out of oil pressure lines to
mechanical gauges (or their melting, kinking, etc) side-lining cars.
IMHO electric senders are the way to go.One last thought: the simplest failure mode of an electronic gauge is
the wire coming off the sender due to snagging or vibration. I used to
drill a 1/16″ hole through the female spade terminal on the wire to
align with the hole in the sender’s spade and run a piece of safety wire
through that. Never a failure after that.Pete
On 9/22/2011 6:10 AM, Seawater wrote:
I may have found a whole console of newer gauges, but I am still looking for the original tach and stewart warner water temperature gauge from my 1978 W 60. any help would be appreciated.
I’m trying to avoid any rewiring , but if no one has these gauges lying around after their repower then I may just go new and replace the temp gauge with a mechanical unit.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1_______________________________________________
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(PS. The white water marks were on the camera lens, not on the
instrument panel)On 9/18/2011 6:46 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Walter,
I have a gauge panel that I used on my 424. I replaced the old gauges
with VDO (water temp, oil pressure, and voltage). The original
tach/hobbs is mounted with these gauges in a new plastic panel. The
OP sender is a dual sender (gauge sender and alarm switch). I tried
to send you a photo, but the email bounced.Here is a link to a photo:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Panel.jpgReach out to me directly if you would like to get this whole set-up.
Pete
On 9/18/2011 6:26 PM, Seawater wrote:
Does anyone have an old tachometer/instrument console lying around in
their basement that they would like to sell?I have my old W60 still running well, with the original rebuilt
motorola alternator, but my tachometer has water vapor in it and is
beginning to corrode. I would love to find an original to simplify
replacement.
Walter
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Walter,
I have a gauge panel that I used on my 424. I replaced the old gauges
with VDO (water temp, oil pressure, and voltage). The original
tach/hobbs is mounted with these gauges in a new plastic panel. The OP
sender is a dual sender (gauge sender and alarm switch). I tried to
send you a photo, but the email bounced.Here is a link to a photo:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Panel.jpgReach out to me directly if you would like to get this whole set-up.
Pete
On 9/18/2011 6:26 PM, Seawater wrote:
Does anyone have an old tachometer/instrument console lying around in their basement that they would like to sell?
I have my old W60 still running well, with the original rebuilt motorola alternator, but my tachometer has water vapor in it and is beginning to corrode. I would love to find an original to simplify replacement.
Walter
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That’s a switch, not a gauge sender. Is the gauge sender somewhere else
on the engine?On 9/17/2011 1:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
On the shelf at Englund marine saving us a $20 cab ride!! Woo hoo!!
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If you want to see just how silly it can get, read this web page…
On 9/17/2011 11:35 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Whew…. In this town that would have been a Monday delivery.
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The thing is that the sender has to match the gauge. There is a
european and an english version (and perhaps others). It has to do with
the resistance range over the temperature range, and there are different
temperature ranges. On top of that, you have different threads to
consider. VDO even makes lots of versions.Here is a web page that offers lots of temp senders:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_sgrp.asp?Subgroup=Temperature_SenderAND THEY ARE OPEN UNTIL 2PM ET on SATURDAY.
In the end, I went with a new VDO gauge and matched sender.
Pete
On 9/17/2011 11:35 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Whew…. In this town that would have been a Monday delivery.
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The ample power regulator terminal for this becomes the ground side for the paralleling solenoid (for which I also have a mechanical switch in parallel )
As for the inductive load, I imagine they use an FET that has within it or around it a diode to handle the negative-going inductive pulse upon release of the solenoid
It is also important to use a confining duty solenoid. Unlike a starter solenoid which is designed for short on cycles, a continuous duty solenoid has no problem with being held on for long periods of time.
On Sep 13, 2011, at 2:04 PM, wrote:
Quote:“There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this”
Cool! I wonder why they all don’t have such an output? I assume its designed to handle an inductive load such as a relay coil, yes? This means that you don’t need the 6v relay that I use. The solenoid supplies power to my engine-driven refrigeration system. I use a smart regulator that doesn’t turn on until 90sec after the engine starts. The alternator and refrigeration compressor are 6hp each, so its nice to bring the engine up to speed before they kick-in.Rich
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There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this
On Sep 13, 2011, at 9:46 AM, wrote:
Quote:With my old engine, I used a separate starter battery that was not directly tied to my 12v house system. I used a battery isolation solenoid, available for about $20 at most RV stores. When the engine was running, it connected the starter battery to the house supply so that it could get charged. When the engine was off it would automatically disconnect. This guaranteed that I could always start my engine even if the house bank was down.To close the isolation solenoid switch, there are two recommended solutions.
1 – use a fuel-pressure switch or oil-pressure switch and wire it such that the solenoid closes when your engine is running.
2 – use a second 6V relay off your tachometer output. When the 6v relay closes, it applies power to the solenoid and causes that to close.I prefer the second solution since it doesn’t energize the switch until after the engine starts. The first solution might close the switch early.
A relay on the breaker panel can connect the starter battery to the house bank. This allows it to charge when plugged in and also lets you run a VHF or other stuff in an emergency. Make sure you open the breaker when not plugged in. This cold be automated also.
This makes it about $30 plus the cost of the battery to have an independent starter battery. I use a truck battery, not a deep cycle for my engine start battery.
My new engine has dual alternators. One alternator does nothing but charge the starter battery so I no longer need the solenoid.
Rich
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