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petedd
ParticipantReally advise pulling the pan and doing some measurements. Paint can’t fix the stuff you might find. Plastigage the main and rod bearings and check the oil pump tolerances. A new oil pan gasket can be hand cut from sheet cork gasket stock instead of paying $75 for one
Pete
On Sep 11, 2011, at 2:24 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
Quote:That is a good suggestion… I’m curious about those hoses with the bends in
them. I can see a PN for them in my manual, but of course they can’t be
found online. Are they a generic thing I should be able to find or replace
with an off the shelf hose?I have a new exhaust elbow and the extension pipe to which it mounts (came
with the boat) and the old one is cracked. I’m going to have the yard get
that pipe off for me as I’m afraid I’ll break something. They need to heat
it up I’m sure.Anyway, I just spent the morning cleaning up the engine as much as I could
(felt a bit like polishing a turd) and then put a can of engine paint on.
I’ll do another can this afternoon, after the Seahawks game. I’m not sure
how much I’m actually protecting anything, but the engine looks a lot
better.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Sep 11, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:IMHO
While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the
thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h
to get at while the engine is in place.
alan— On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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petedd
ParticipantYup, that’s what I said… then when I pulled the oil pan and
plastigaged the bearings… it was clear that it was time for a new
engine…Pete
On 9/10/2011 7:56 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Nope, putting back the engine, just going to knock of the corrosion on the
bottom and spray on some engine paint.-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 2:46 PM, kalinowskiwrote:
Are you going to do a rebuild? Or plug in another power plant?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
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petedd
ParticipantI recall having to remove the elbows on the top of the tank.
Pete
On 9/9/2011 10:13 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
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petedd
ParticipantOf course… the boat needs to be in the water when you do this, not on
the hard.Pete
On 9/9/2011 8:37 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Pete,
Already found this one and think it the best article on the subject I have read to date. Will be following these procedures for the testing and measurement steps, as soon as I feel comfortable about the procedure for making the adjustments on the motor mounts.
Thanks
Skippetedd wrote:
Good article on alignment here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/GetInLine%20Alignment%20Instructions.pdfPete
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petedd
ParticipantGood article on alignment here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/GetInLine%20Alignment%20Instructions.pdfPete
On 9/9/2011 5:59 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Sounds like a good idea. I have been speaking to another 422 owner that had his engine pulled to reinforce the engine bed. So far his reports on the mechanic’s work sound promising and I am waiting to see how he does on the reinstallation and alignment. If it comes out well will report the results here.
Meanwhile, do all the 424s have the separate v-drive connected to the tranismission with a drive shaft?
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petedd
ParticipantRegina Oceani is getting finish primer on her decks this weekend… top
coat to follow. Just call me “sandy”.Pete
Quote:Quote:Quote:Quote:
Original Message
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petedd
Participant1- How much lower in voltage is one bank reading than the other? if it
is just a tiny bit, forget about it. If it is on on the order of a volt
or more, you likely have one defective cell (see #3).2- Is there any load on the batteries when you are checking this voltage
?(if so, the 4-battery set will naturally show less draw down of the
voltage than the 2-battery bank.3- next… Check the voltage across each of the batteries separately.
Are they equal? Perhaps you have one defective battery.Pete
On 8/22/2011 8:14 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the other.
If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of 3-4& 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?
Regards
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petedd
Participantdouble LOL!
On 8/16/2011 7:17 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Now you know what to get *me* for Christmas…
On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:08 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
If you want to get started in welding your won stainless, here is a great
buy right now on the Eastwood 120/240V TIG welder. Nice set-up which
includes foot pedal. Today and tomorrow only $750 and free shipping.Pete
http://www.eastwood.com/**eastwood-s-ac-dc-tig-200-**welder.html
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petedd
ParticipantWell now you know what to get me for Christmas…
On 8/16/2011 6:12 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
But we’re worth it…
On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 7:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yikes! $66.00
On 8/16/2011 3:53 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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petedd
ParticipantYikes! $66.00
On 8/16/2011 3:53 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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petedd
ParticipantThanks Bob.
On 8/16/2011 3:53 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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petedd
ParticipantI like the Doyle Stackpack a lot. You can pull the lines forward to the
mast so they don’t wear on the sail and no more holes in the sail. Plus
you get a great sail cover in the deal.On 8/15/2011 2:05 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
I need to install a system as my new sail does not have the Dutchman buttons installed ( Dave, my sailmaker, was adamant about not putting more holes in “his” sail).
Any one have a layout they are happy with?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
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petedd
ParticipantLol damn spellchecker… That’s supposed to be Lloyds not looted.
On Aug 12, 2011, at 10:53 AM, “” wrote:
My v-berth hatch opens on the forward edge. I believe I have heard something about offshore racing, looted or someone specifying that all hatches open on the aft side. Can anyone provide wisdom or references on this quandary?
Thanks
Pete
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petedd
ParticipantI put in a wooden floor, painted it all gloss white, and use clip-close
large and medium containers to hold linens back there. Keeps them fresh
in the containers with a dryer sheet in each one. The combination of
the sizes of the containers allows one to remove two of the small ones
and then shift and move the larger ones to get any one of them out
without having to remove them all. Kinda like one of those old letter
tile puzzles.Pete
On 8/11/2011 7:51 PM, Dale L wrote:
Today I got up my courage and cut the opening and test fitted the
access hatch for the space behind the shower wall. WOW! what a lot of
space. Question for those that have done this: How have you organized
this space? Shelves, bins/baskets? It is too deep to just start
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petedd
Participantthanks
On 8/10/2011 10:39 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Pete,
Hinges: http://www.mcmaster.com/#1276a14/=dk685o
Latches are there also but can’t find the link at the moment.
alan— On Wed, 8/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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