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Since the 424 ports are 5×12 and not 4×10, I would say these4x10 ones
would leak quite a bit ;^)Pete
On 12/2/2010 12:56 PM, Adam wrote:
Are these new ports a better design or will they leak like the old ports?
How are the ports from new found metals?
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As in pulled the mast with the table still attached? LOL!!!
On 12/2/2010 12:33 PM, Adamlaw wrote:
Quote:This yard tried to pull my folding cabin table through the little hole in the coachroof. They are well-meaning.Adam Silverstein
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Quote:IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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What is a yard? ;^)
Pete
On 12/2/2010 11:48 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:IMHO, this is one of those have the yard do it things.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear a
dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could
probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut
aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets
better and better…Rich
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In the boat, you might try this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-composite-air-cut-off-tool-95028.html
again, starting by drawing the line all the way around the mast. (wear
a dust mask when using this)I have one of these and use it to cut off things in places where I can’t
easily work with a saw.Pete
On 12/2/2010 7:03 AM, wrote:
Quote:This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut aluminum with no trouble.http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets better and better…
Rich
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Draw a line all the way around, measured from the end or another
perpendicular reference and then circumscribe it with a sabre saw with
an appropriate metal-cutting blade. Do not try to crosscut it.(I have seen this done twice; once on my boat).
Pete
On 12/1/2010 3:01 PM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
Is there a trick or technique to slicing off the poxy lower inch or two of the spar? Never done it.
Adam Silverstein
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I have a web depository of all my manuals here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/
Look under Raymarine Instruments.
Pete
On 11/23/2010 8:06 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Morning Glory had an Autohelm autopilot installed when I bought he but it did
not have any instructions. Where can I get a copy of the manual for an Autohelm
7000?lee
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I think a lot of “autopilot failures”, particularly those attributed to
the control head of Autohelm units are actually just a need to conduct
the calibration procedure again. I know that mine has gone crazy at the
beginning of the year after storage with its power off. Seems it
somehow lost its bearings and calibration. The set-up procedure is
easy enough… after putting it in the right mode, you slowly motor in a
large circle. (see the manual).Pete
On 11/23/2010 6:36 AM, Alan wrote:
John,
What happened to your autopilot? Type, manufacturer, failure mode etc…..
I’d be interested to know the details.
thanks
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Best place for the thruhulls is the tansom. Longer hoses but never under water. No siphon risk
Pete
On Nov 18, 2010, at 8:45 AM, “kalinowski” <> wrote:
Lady Leanne’s haul out is rapidly approaching, and my mind is reviewing all of the out-of-water projects possible. One that “floats” to the top of the list is the addition of another (high capacity) bilge pump or two mounted higher in the sump. Recommendations from articles I have read indicate that a 40′ boat should have a 4,000 GPH capacity, which doesn’t include the “day to day” pump in the bottom of the sump and the manual (which should be considered as a reserve powered by a motivated skipper).
Has anyone installed another pump or two higher in the bilge? Where did you mount the through hulls? Did you use seacocks? Would marelon be appropriate (certainly cheaper)?
I’ve also read that the system should be redundant, with no shared lines or hull fittings. Comments?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Good link. Thanks.
Does the following mean that flares are no longer required if you have a
flag and a night signaling device?*Minimum of three day-use and three night-use or three day/night
combination pyrotechnic devices. Non-pyrotechnic substitutes: 1 orange
flag (day-use) and 1 electric S-O-S signal light (night-use)*Pete
On 11/16/2010 3:43 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf
<http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf>-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Lee Yonkers<> wrote:
Yesterday a fellow on the adjacent dock told me we are no longer required
to
have a ship’s bell.Is this true? If so what, if any thing, replaces the bell?
Lee
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For the aluminum tank to replace the original? That is way high. It
should be around $750 (plus shipping). That would include an electric
sender and all the fittings.Pete
On 10/28/2010 9:04 PM, Herbc wrote:
The fabricators are coming back in the 1200.00 range.
How does that seem to fit ball park, high or low. just right?
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You have to note that the biggest sheet of material you can get down the
companionway is about 41″ wide (on my boat). This is the limit you have
to work with. As such, you could never get an aluminum tank this size
into the boat.Pressure testing the tank to at least 3psi is stressful and not for the
weak of heart… I made an 8′ tall manometer and tested to 90″ of water
column. (air pressure in the tank, not water in the tank – dismiss all
the b.s. out there on the net about testing the tank by filling it with
water and pressurizing the water. The USCG procedure clearly states
pressurizing with air.One might consider making two parallel tanks along the centerline with
the top joined down the middle or just joining the top to the centerline
baffle in order to reduce the effective surface area of the top that the
pressure is pushing up against….3psi pushing up over about 20 sq feet
is a lot of force…The top is not just held on by the hull and deck putty. There are
layers of mat tape over the joint, wrapping the top and side, after it
is faired with the putty on the outside.Fiberglass is not cheaper than aluminum but you will never get a tank
made out of aluminum that would use up all of this available volume or
for that matter get one down the companionway.Lots more details in the upcoming article.
Pete
On 10/23/2010 10:25 AM, Herbc wrote:
Saw the photos. That is very impressive. The pros are mentioned. Any cons that have come about, now that it is done. I will consider this an option.
Thanks
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Okay gang, go here:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Regina_Oceani.html
and then see the New October 2010 link for photos of the fuel tank
project. I will let you know when the full article will be published as
soon as I know.Pete
On 10/22/2010 11:05 PM, Herbc wrote:
Have been out cruising the Sound and waiting on the Pro to get back to us with a quote. Would really like to see the option for 95 gallons under the sole. Sound cool. Sorry the pics did not get posted, could see the genset going in though, great idea.
Nothing is going to happen very fast, as we go forward with our plan. May have to wait for the article.
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I think I am missing something… I sent them to the dropio address
this morning… Normally pics appear right away.On 10/19/2010 5:59 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:not sure I saw a fuel tank in these photos- am I missing something?________________________________
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Joe,
Pictures of tank construction are now at http://drop.io/pearson424
Pete
On 10/17/2010 6:40 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete,
I am really interested in your tank fabrication.I have a guy here that is
really good with boats and fiberglas and could probably fabricate a tank for
me.When will you share something with the association? Also- with all the work
you’re doing- coming back to the East Coast? soon?
Fuel tank-HERB- the tank can be cut up without violating the cradle.I had mine
sawzawed and had 2 tanks fabricated in Florida from the original mfgr.It allowed
me not to pull the engine.________________________________
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Herb,
I built a new 95 gallon tank into the hull under the salon sole, freeing
up the space under the cockpit and lowering the center of gravity and
shifting the weight to above the keel. This gave me plenty of room for
my 12V generator/scuba compressor under the cockpit. This project will
appear in an upcoming article in Blue Water Sailing magazine.Pete
On 10/15/2010 11:32 PM, Herbc wrote:
look thru post for fuel tanks and trying to get a handle on the issue. Took a look at the pdf that was good info. Some references to cutting some on the cross beam and my PO Don mentioned cutting out the old tank and reinstalling 2 tanks.
Had a fellow down today to look at the situation and he will contact some fabricators and work up a price.
Are there some pics I missed or any suggestions on how to proceed.thanks in advance.
Herb
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