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How do you split the output of the water so some does not go through the
lift muffler?I know about splitting it after the muffler, as is done with gensets to
release the water below waterline for noise reasons, but not how to do
this ahead of the muffler.Pete
On 4/28/2010 11:37 AM, wrote:
Quote:The W-60 needs to pump even more water or it will overheat. Westerbeke’s original installation instructions for the W-60 advise diverting some of the cooling water directly overboard to prevent overflooding seawater into the exhaust. If you increase the size of the seawater pump beyond what was spec’d by Westerbeke, you should be cautious to avoid the same problem.Rich
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That makes me think about checking the radiator cap. It must be holding
pressure for the cooling system to function correctly in that the
pressure prevents to pre-mature boiling of the coolant (and why
radiators boil over when you remove the cap from a hot engine). Take
the cap to a auto parts store and let them test it.Pete
On 4/28/2010 11:34 AM, wrote:
Quote:If your engine overheats, steam should come out of the water heater pressure release. In fact, you should be able to temporarily cool your engine by dumping hot-water down the sink drain. If your fresh water doesn’t start to boil, there’s something wrong with the flow through the heat-exchanger.Rich
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If you send them to me and I will scan them and then we can put them online.
Pete
On 4/28/2010 8:19 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Part of moving is divesting of things no longer needed. I have all
the old pearson newsletters ( pre 2003 ) and information in a box. If
anyone wants these things, send me your address. I will forward them
on to you. This is a box – not so big – maybe 8 inch stack.If I don’t hear from anyone they are going to recycling
thanks
– pat
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Oh, yes, the coolant system will always overflow coolant when the engine
heats up due to thermal expansion. The overflow tank catches that
expansion and the fluid flows back to the engine (actually sucked back
by the resultant vacuum) as the engine cools. Without a proper overflow
tank, the expanded fluid is lost and then the next time the engine is
started cold, it is low on fluid. (I was once on a charter boat that
did not have an overflow tank and the procedure was to add about a pint
of water to the engine every morning…Pete
On 4/28/2010 7:38 AM, sumocean wrote:
James
The thermostat is the cheapest and the easiest so that’s where I start, being cheap and lazy. I hope it’s not the pump, not cheap or easy. Mine even had holes rusted in the top from what looked like salt spray from a leaky raw water pump over many years when I bought the boat. There wasn’t much left of the outer case of the pump but it was enough to keep it going. If you have hoses that go to the hot water heater disconecting the return line and putting it in a bucket will let you know how much flow you have or just check if you have hot water at a sink would be easier I guess.
Linus
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The sea water pump on the W58 is really too small for the engine. Mine
was replaced with a larger Sherwood pump on a stainless steel bracket
with a large aluminum pulley. Moved a good bit more water. I still
have that whole outfit, including a spare pump, left over from my
re-power, if you are interested in going that way.Rebuilding water pumps is really quite easy. The seals are removed, the
bearings pressed out (a socket and hammer works in the stead of a
press), the shaft polished up a bit with very fine emery paper, the
wedge and o-rings replaced, and you basically have a new pump. The
rebuild kits come in two or three degrees, depending on your pump. The
largest kit includes a new shaft. Call Depco for the kit or shop around
for it online. Or just get the bearings and seals (plus O-rings) at
your local bearing store and order the wedge from Depco. Buying a new
pump is a waste of money when rebuilding is so easy.Hope this helps.
Pete
On 4/27/2010 10:51 PM, james bartch wrote:
Aloha to All
Thank you for the advice, i am getting closer to the problem. it has to be on the coolant or fresh water side. I am suspecting that the fresh water pump may be bad but… is there a good check to make sure. i am not sure which hose to pull to make sure the pump is actually pumping coolant thru the system.
symptom: after i fill the engine with coolant and run it for a while, put it under a load, cap off and shut it down it spits out coolant, does not appear to be cycling coolant thru the system or coolant appears to be backed up and then overflows after the engine heats up.
i am thinking that it may be the pump, i see on line that these fresh water pumps can be re built, is that the best way to go?
I have not pulled the pump or checked the hoses that go to and from the pump yet, just wanted to see if a hose can be removed to check flow on the outlet side of the pump, but not sure.
thank you in advance for the help, you guys are great!
S/V Island Muse #217
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I am a fan of the VDO cockpit series of gauges. These are available at
very good prices via mailorder (including ebay). You order the senders
separately. You can even get a dual sender that has oil pressure sender
and low pressure switch in one. I have used this series of gauges on a
race car, two restorations, and my boat and can vouch for their quality,
reliability, and accuracy. Hmmm, come to think of it, my new engine
comes with a new gauge set so I have a full panel with VDO temp and OP
gauges and their senders (and tach) coming up for sale. Let me know if
that would help you out.Pete
On 4/27/2010 3:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
On the W58 there are two temp and two oil switches – the switches are for
the alarms, low oil press and high temp. The gauge sending unit needs to be
matched to the gauge so expect to spend about 100 bucks to replace both from
a NAPA or someplace like that. They’ll have replacement senders. I used a
VDO guage and sender to replace my oil switch and sender.Just take the old ones in and let them look… You could also spend three
times the amount and get westerbeke parts…Bob
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 11:38 AM, kalinowski<>wrote:
I’ve checked the temp gage on my W58 with an infrared unit and found it to
be off by 15 degrees. I want to replace both the gage and sensing unit.
After checking the online sources, I am confused (not hard). Is what I
want a temp SENDER or a temp SWITCH?I am making the assumption that the temp SWITCH is part of a system that
includes an audible buzzer that sounds when the thing is close to
overheating. I also assume that the temp SENDER just gives a readout on the
temp gage without a buzzer. My boat does not presently have a temp buzzer
alarm.What would be the correct selection?
Dan Kalinowskli
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Your sender must be matched to your gauge, in the sense that there are
different resistance slopes for various brands of gauges.On 4/27/2010 9:38 AM, kalinowski wrote:
I’ve checked the temp gage on my W58 with an infrared unit and found it to be off by 15 degrees. I want to replace both the gage and sensing unit. After checking the online sources, I am confused (not hard). Is what I want a temp SENDER or a temp SWITCH?
I am making the assumption that the temp SWITCH is part of a system that includes an audible buzzer that sounds when the thing is close to overheating. I also assume that the temp SENDER just gives a readout on the temp gage without a buzzer. My boat does not presently have a temp buzzer alarm.
What would be the correct selection?
Dan Kalinowskli
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Grease is a problem child… I once was flying a plane and a glob of
grease landed on the micro switch that made the flap control system
believe the flaps were up when in fact they were all the way down. Good
thing air planes have windows in the cockpit so I could see that the
flaps were down…On 4/27/2010 8:10 AM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Quote:Thanks Pete, That was my plan. The solenoid was hooking up and I am wondering if it just might need to be repacked with grease.
BillEdit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340________________________________
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How do you “burb” (burp) it? (I can’t put it over my shoulder and pat
its back). No, seriously, what is the procedure for burping the air out?On 4/27/2010 7:33 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:With all the work you have done and the hoses that have been off, I’ll vote for the air bubble in the system, vapor lock theroy…. it’s happened to me.
I have a surge tank that is mounted high and above the system that is located in the port sail locker. When i redid my hoses, I did have a bubble still in there… need to burb it.
a— On Tue, 4/27/10, adam silverstein<> wrote:
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Good suggestion John. What would have changed to create the air lock?
My wife teaches a course in problem solving, the same technique they use
a NASA, and the first question is always “what has changed?” That
usually gives a clue to the root problem.Pete
On 4/27/2010 6:06 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Also check the hoses to the hot water heater (assuming you heat water with
the engine). Unless you have a diverter valve to control the flow to the
water heater (my W60 did not), an air lock in these hose can restrict or
shut down the water flow through the heat exchanger. Whenever I drained the
coolant on my W60 I used to pour coolant into one of the disconnected heater
hoses untill it flowed solidly out of the other, then reattached the hoses
to the engine.On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 2:15 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters<
> wrote:When you checked the heat exchanger did you pull the end cap and look into
it? When I took my boat for it’s first test sail we overheated about 100yds
outside the breakwater. Heat Exchanger was gummed up.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 11:01 PM, james bartch<
wrote:
Aloha to All
My w-58 is still heating up even after i have checked the obvious, any
suggestions on what else i can check before i call in the machanic? new
impeller, changed the thermostat, cleared the lines and looked forimpeller
pieces, have water flow out the discharge, cleaned the raw water
strainer,
checked the heat exchanger as best i know how, checked the oil
cooler-heat
exchanger and have no obvious external leaking.
I can strart the engine run it for about 30 imnutes or so, under a load
and
then it starts to creep over 180 and i shut it down as it nears 200 +/-
any thing else that i can check? the engine runs smooth and does not
appear
to have any coolant or oil coming out of the discharge, the oil is clear
in
the engine, trans and v drive… coolant is clean.
please help!
the engine is supposed to be a 1995 series w58, but not sure of that,
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Stop by an auto electric repair shop and ask what they use for grease in
the solenoid.On 4/27/2010 12:33 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had the solenoid on my starter replaced and there was no discussion of
special grease.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 7:43 PM, Bill Emberley<>wrote:
Quote:Hello Pearson Owners,
I am replacing my intermittent starter solenoid. I removed the old one and
found the spring loaded piston had grease on it. Is there a special
solenoid grease?
Best,
BillSV “Running Tab”
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Have you checked the temperature using an infrared thermometer at the
thermostat elbow? Don’t discount a problem with your temperature gauge
or sender. Always use an infrared thermometer to check the real status
if you have a problem.On 4/27/2010 12:01 AM, james bartch wrote:
Aloha to All
My w-58 is still heating up even after i have checked the obvious, any suggestions on what else i can check before i call in the machanic? new impeller, changed the thermostat, cleared the lines and looked for impeller pieces, have water flow out the discharge, cleaned the raw water strainer,
checked the heat exchanger as best i know how, checked the oil cooler-heat exchanger and have no obvious external leaking.I can strart the engine run it for about 30 imnutes or so, under a load and then it starts to creep over 180 and i shut it down as it nears 200 +/-
any thing else that i can check? the engine runs smooth and does not appear to have any coolant or oil coming out of the discharge, the oil is clear in the engine, trans and v drive… coolant is clean.
please help!
the engine is supposed to be a 1995 series w58, but not sure of that, survey indicates so with serial numbers.
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Thanks!
On 4/19/2010 8:23 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
yep ! (all this is in the archive as well)
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 6:31 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
with newfound metal’s products?
On 4/19/2010 6:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I replaced (am replacing actually) them as follows:
Galley& Aft Berth – 6×20
Shower: 8×18—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:51 PM, Pete Dubler<>
wrote:Patrick,
What did you replace your old ones with? I know about the Newfound
metals
products for the 5×12 ports, but have not seen anything to replace these
longer ones.Pete
On 4/19/2010 3:55 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Dan, here a couple of pics of the portlight:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>Let me
know
if you still want it.<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:47 PM, kalinowski<
wrote:
I am after the long (21″ +-) aluminum ones that open. These are in the
head, shower and above the stove on our boat. I had one sand blasted,
zinc
chromated and painted and it looks good enough for now (putting $ in
other
places right now). I’d be happy to pay for shipping and contribute to
the
cruising kitty if these are the right ones. P said he would send me
pix
later.Mahalo (thanks)
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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with newfound metal’s products?
On 4/19/2010 6:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I replaced (am replacing actually) them as follows:
Galley& Aft Berth – 6×20
Shower: 8×18—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:51 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Patrick,
What did you replace your old ones with? I know about the Newfound metals
products for the 5×12 ports, but have not seen anything to replace these
longer ones.Pete
On 4/19/2010 3:55 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Dan, here a couple of pics of the portlight:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>Let me
know
if you still want it.<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:47 PM, kalinowski<
wrote:
I am after the long (21″ +-) aluminum ones that open. These are in the
head, shower and above the stove on our boat. I had one sand blasted,
zinc
chromated and painted and it looks good enough for now (putting $ in
other
places right now). I’d be happy to pay for shipping and contribute to
the
cruising kitty if these are the right ones. P said he would send me pix
later.Mahalo (thanks)
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Patrick,
What did you replace your old ones with? I know about the Newfound
metals products for the 5×12 ports, but have not seen anything to
replace these longer ones.Pete
On 4/19/2010 3:55 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Dan, here a couple of pics of the portlight:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>Let me know
if you still want it.<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/sets/72157623767523649/>-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:47 PM, kalinowski<>wrote:
I am after the long (21″ +-) aluminum ones that open. These are in the
head, shower and above the stove on our boat. I had one sand blasted, zinc
chromated and painted and it looks good enough for now (putting $ in other
places right now). I’d be happy to pay for shipping and contribute to the
cruising kitty if these are the right ones. P said he would send me pix
later.Mahalo (thanks)
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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