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I agree…. The white Bilgekote paint is great. Plan on two coats.
On 4/15/2010 6:18 AM, wrote:
Quote:http://www.pyacht.com/interlux-bilgekote.htmRich
Original Message
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Thanks.
On 3/26/2010 5:21 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I got a pic of that: Belzona 1111 Super Metal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4232509670/>The yard had it and
provided me with some. You’d have to see where to get it locally. It’s at
least $150 for the 1kg size seen in that photo.-p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 3:57 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you used
and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with,
but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not
have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<>
wrote:Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in
for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Thanks Patrick. Do you recall which of the many Belzona products you
used and where do you get it?Thanks,
Pete
On 3/26/2010 4:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I had my spars blasted and painted with AlexSeal 501. I patched corrosion
area and bolt holes with Belzona.
http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php
<http://www.alexseal.com/en/ease.php>http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx<http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx>The Belzona was easy to work with, but
cured fast.All of this was expensive. If you have experience with a spray gun and
adequate facilities you might get similar or better results yourself. My
finish is about an 8 out of 10, but I was not willing to pay for the labor
to get to a 10 finish (lots and lots of fill and sanding) and I did not have
the facilities or skill to do it myself.-=p
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 1:25 PM, Eric Lorentzon<> wrote:
Quote:Hi Pete, My spars were hand painted (poorly) by PO
I just did both spars and all spreaders. 14 sheets of 80 grit + 6 sheets
400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four 3M fine sanding sponges.2qt’s Interlux
brightside ( i opted not to go all the way to bare metal) this gave me 2
coats throughout 2 cans of 3331 x 3in quality brush (already had a 1.5in for
the tight spots)total of materials $168.32lots of hours did not keep
trackFinished product is acceptable (200 x better than what I had)
EricNavasana, Hull #70— On Thu, 3/25/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
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There were two temp “senders” on my W58. One is for the idiot horn and the other for the temperature gauge. I replaced my gauges with trusty and good looking VDO “cockpit series gauges” and made a new plastic panel. The whole panel with senders and the tach will go up for sale in a few weeks when my new panel comes with the new Beta Marine engine. ( I don’t want to leave a big hole in the boat in the meantime… I have a big enough hole in the sole where I am building the new fuel tank. I’ll take a picture of it this weekend.
Pete
On 3/10/2010 10:37 AM, kalinowski wrote:
The temp gage on our W 58 has given up the ghost (the gage pegs at 300 when the engine starts). Are these standard screw in units? Suggestions?
Dan Kalinowski
Lady leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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SOG does not count. My top SOG is 75 mph, but that was when my boat was being hauled to Colorado. The speed through water then, fortunately, was zero…
On 2/26/2010 7:03 AM, () wrote:
Quote:p { margin: 0; }
I’ve had my 424 over 14kts on many occasions. It takes 6kts of current to get there though. Come to think of it, I’ve had it over 50 kts frequently. That takes a truck. The boat will do an honest 8.3 kts through the water under the right conditions. That assumes that you correct for current and ignore any surfing. Under power it will do 7.8kts (flat calm, no sail assist), but it sucks down about 3gal/hr at that speed. 7.3kts is the max practical speed under power. I usually cruise at about 6.7 kts under power. That seems to be the sweet spot.Rich
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I thought you sailed off the edge…
On 2/26/2010 6:09 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Just kidding.🙂
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Quote:
Original Message
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If you get the velvet drive, it is easy to rebuild. You can get a full rebuild kit for about $140 on ebay. Only hard part is getting some of the internal circlips off. There are two generations of rebuild manuals. There are errors in both, but nothing one can’t figure out. (Most notably, a big deal is made about the difference in width of the two large circlips and where they go. After all that, they have the information backwards…) Several special tools are listed in the manual but there is only one “special” tool that you need and that is a 12 point socket (forget the size) and if you don’t have them in your socket set, you can pick up a single one at Sears. Instead of a fancy tool to cover the spline when re-assembling, some masking or electrical tape will work fine. After I had mine apart, I stripped the paint, reprimed, and painted to match the Beta Marine engine that is on the way. Paint it while it is in pieces and you will get a job that looks like a brand new tranny.
You can find the manuals here: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/ (tranny manuals are under the Drive Train and Fuel System directory)
Also Walter manual and others there. Most are seachable scans which makes it easy to find just what you need.
Be sure to check the resistance through the neutral safety switch. Mine was high and that perhaps explains why I sometimes had trouble with the starter engaging. New one was $23 with shipping from Inboard Power (Google it). There are two sizes of safety switch. The new one uses a 7/8″ socket; the old one (obsolete) uses a larger socket. Prices on parts vary widely, so shop around.
Pete
On 2/14/2010 10:47 AM, james bartch wrote:
FYI – i found a velvet drive 1:1 w/walter v drive 26c for sale in michigan from a 1994 vessel for 2K look on craigs list if interested,
not sure of condition but i think it fit the pearsons???
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I just rebuilt my velvet drive (myself) and in reading the manuals noted
that there is a wide variety of oils that the v-drive can use, including
30wt.More recent manual states that multi-grade oils are not acceptable.The
first choice is SAE-API Class CD. Second is class CC. Also Allison
type C3 is recommended.So, interesting idea to run the same oil in all three elements of the
drive train.Pete
On 2/8/2010 7:04 AM, adam silverstein wrote:
Quote:I use it for engine and vee. My tranny takes type iii. It’s like
marmite, farina and sunoco 94. Acquired tastes.Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Feb 8, 2010, at 8:44 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
Quote:Bob, you wrote, “. . . I could use it for the engine, transmission
and vdrive.” The question is, do you use it for all three apps or are
you just contemplating using it?Lee
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Great to know. Thanks!
On 2/8/2010 5:48 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Not at all – Rotella 30 wt heavy duty is as basic an oil as you can find.
The nice thing is that I could use it for the engine, transmission and
vdrive. I wonder if someone thought about that?Bob
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 11:27 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Walter not only recommends 30W oil, they are very insistent that it is
non-detergent oil as well. Tricky to find…Pete
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Walter not only recommends 30W oil, they are very insistent that it is
non-detergent oil as well. Tricky to find…Pete
On 2/7/2010 7:55 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Norris
Alignment on the hard is a waste of money, but you probably already know
that. Sounds like your yard took you for a ride.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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photo was stripped from posting… I am not sure how to show it.
Pete
On 2/2/2010 8:28 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:It’s a hole… about 44 x 32″ That big red hose is the deck was
line. Runs from the aft end of the aft berth where there is a
thruhull to the pump, under the galley sink, to the deck wash fitting
on the port side of the deck beside the anchor locker. Pretty
silly… I am going to move the pump to under the v-berth sink and
use the sink drain as the source of sea water (tee the fitting).See the vertical wall in the fiberglass, just behind the mast step?
That will be the front of the tank. The aft edge will be just in
front of the flat area in front of the deep bilge. This will leave me
a step for getting down into the bilge. My new fuel
valve/filter/polishing system(with a drip catch pan) will mount on one
side there (pictures later) and the valves/filters for the watermaker
on the other side. I am debating about topping the tank below the
2×4’s or coming up a few inches on either side. There will be an
access hatch for the fittings. I will add another button to my
TankTender for use as the tank gauge.
More fun on the Front Range…On 2/1/2010 10:29 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Whoa, you’re doing all that and haven’t leaked a single photo? quit
holding
out on us! 😉-p
—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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It’s a hole… about 44 x 32″ That big red hose is the deck was
line. Runs from the aft end of the aft berth where there is a thruhull
to the pump, under the galley sink, to the deck wash fitting on the port
side of the deck beside the anchor locker. Pretty silly… I am going
to move the pump to under the v-berth sink and use the sink drain as the
source of sea water (tee the fitting).See the vertical wall in the fiberglass, just behind the mast step?
That will be the front of the tank. The aft edge will be just in front
of the flat area in front of the deep bilge. This will leave me a step
for getting down into the bilge. My new fuel valve/filter/polishing
system(with a drip catch pan) will mount on one side there (pictures
later) and the valves/filters for the watermaker on the other side. I
am debating about topping the tank below the 2×4’s or coming up a few
inches on either side. There will be an access hatch for the fittings.
I will add another button to my TankTender for use as the tank gauge.
More fun on the Front Range…On 2/1/2010 10:29 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Whoa, you’re doing all that and haven’t leaked a single photo? quit holding
out on us! 😉-p
—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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LOL. While you are at it, consider the following for your toilet paper
to complete the attraction:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iIZpnBpTfU
Pete
On 2/2/2010 5:25 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Unbelievably, yes, it can – it’s like a waterpark ride for poo.
Bob
On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 8:45 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Hey Rube, can the poop really turn all those corners?
Pete
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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I have taken up a big part of the sole in the saloon to glass in a new
fuel tank. I calculated that I can get a 95 gallon tank in this space
(between the mast and main bilge and 42 inches wide. So, if you want to
cut out the sole, there is plenty of space for glassed-in tank. (I
spent about 5 hours yesterday moving the wires and hoses out of the way…).Also, if you are interested, I have a new small holding tank that is the
largest I could find that would slip through the bilge sole hatch and
slide forward under the saloon with a tank gauge in it and fittings if
you are interested. Also a macerator pump that has never seen the brown
stuff and three-way valves. (I am going to switch over to a composting
head). Also have an electro-san to sell.Pete
On 2/1/2010 9:18 AM, svtopaz wrote:
Where have people placed their holding tank? I am looking to put one in this winter and want ideas as to where to put it. I have an electric sans in the salon area (middle cabin sole).
Barbara
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Hey Rube, can the poop really turn all those corners?
Pete
On 2/1/2010 11:19 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I have a 28 gallon tank in the bilge behind the ballast. Pictures if you
want them on
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2009/08/finishing-projects-holding-tank.html.Cheers!
Bob
On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 11:18 AM, svtopaz<> wrote:
Where have people placed their holding tank? I am looking to put one in
this winter and want ideas as to where to put it. I have an electric sans
in the salon area (middle cabin sole).Barbara
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