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Thanks! You have some very nice scans there. (I especially like the
Pearson gift catalog).I think I will do what you did and post the rest of mine to a website.
Standby.Pete
On 1/30/2010 8:43 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
You should check out http://drop.io/deepplaya I may have them already.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 30, 2010, at 19:25, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
The folks at HP who design the super high speed, amazing, industrial
scanners work on the floor above me. They have loaned me one of
these units and I am scanning all my boat manuals.The neat part about this is that with the post-processing software
they come out super clean and ARE SEARCHABLE, which is really cool.Although I am repowering with a Beta Marine engine, I am scanning the
W-58 manual and parts book. I will do all my instrument manuals,
pump manuals, radio manuals, etc. Right now that take up a several
foot high stack of binders.Anybody interested in a DVD of all the manuals? I can add any
manuals to the library you might want to send me. Someone suggest a
fair price for the full library DVD.Pete
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I’ll post the list of manuals when I have them all done.
Stains and the like still come through on the scanning ;^(On 1/30/2010 8:43 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Peter
I’d be interested in a clean copy of the original owner’s manual. I have my
original copy, but its over 30 years old and pretty dog-eared. I have no
idea what I’d do with the rest of the manuals however. I’d be happy to
chip-in to have the owner’s manual scanned.
RichQuote:
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Thanks Pat.
On 1/30/2010 7:35 PM, pat noordsij wrote:
Quote:If it doesn’t come through on this message see picture at:
http://drop.io/pearson424
Original Message
Subject: great and cheap tool….
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 2010 17:34:53 -0700
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
good thinking and good quotation.
Pete
On 1/26/2010 8:45 AM, Syringa wrote:
As you can see I removed the settee bed slides. The Pearson 424 was made with the Caribbean Charter trade in mind so she could sleep 8, now Syringa can sleep 6. As me and my wife have been cursing for years in the Northwest waters we find this to be plenty of room for guests as we only like to take one other couple at a time. When my kids and grand kids come along they always seem to fit nicely.
When I had the settee cushions made I had them make the back rest out of 2″ foam this gave me 2 more inches of butt room and also made the mattress roomier. I also had the seats cushions made so it they not run all the way back to the hull, and now use that space to stow may fishing gear and outer small items. The 2″X2″ piece of wood you can see in the photo keeps the cushion from sliding back.
I like the old saying: A good boat has room for six friends for cocktails, four for dinner, and sleeps two.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Okay but how do you slide the bed platform out now? Or does the sliding
part lay on top of the sheet with the barrel nuts?Thanks,
Pete
On 1/25/2010 2:08 PM, Syringa wrote:
Try this http://www.xoopit.com/s/21axomrt8scrscke2xzg
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Interesting indeed. I would have not recognized it as a 424. What does the gang thing about the idea of removing the toerail wood?
Pete
On 1/21/2010 6:58 AM, () wrote:
Quote:p { margin: 0; } Interesting what the owner did to the boat. Removed the toe-rails, relocated stanchions to rail-cap, added a scoop transom.Rich
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SCADtech was working on a set of LED nav lights, but they never came to market (yet).
Pete
On 1/14/2010 6:23 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Was there someone in our group who is involved with a company that is making LED nav lights? I am planning on a new anchor light and I think I remember reading that one of our members makes them???
Thanks!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214_______________________________________________
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The registration of the trademark is only valid if they are actively using it in the market and since they have been out of business for years, the registration is not active.
Pete
On 1/12/2010 3:33 PM, Elaine Patton wrote:
Regarding the burgee, I googled “custom burgee” and found lots of sources. One of the ideas might be to make a burgee just for the owners group. Any artists out there?
Here are a few of the sites:
http://prestigeflag.com/products/yacht/yacht.php
http://www.embassyflag.com/customboatflags.htmPete
On 1/12/2010 7:12 AM, Eric Lorentzon wrote:
Adam,
Funny you should ask… I just removed a complete and unused holding tank system from my boat. It includes all the 3-way valves, mascerator pump, electric tank level gauge, fittings, etc.
It fit right in front of the Electro-san (also have one of those to offer). It fit through the sole hatch. I secured it with some small blocks fiberglassed in the corners (not adhered to the tank, just serving as stops in the corners) to hold the tank in the x and y axes and I put a horizontal piece of wood over the tank with a piece of plywood screwed into the floor beam over the tank to hold the tank on the vertical axis).
We are going to fit a composting head and also sell off our Skipper head (which is a great head, if you are going to have a pumping head).
Let me know if you are interested in any or all of this stuff (or anyone else who is).
All the best for the new year!
Pete
On 1/2/2010 1:48 PM, Adam wrote:
I was reading previous blogs about holding tank installation under floor behind the mast. For those of you who added the tank, what was the dimentions of the tank without having to rip up the floor.
We have an electra sans, and are trying to add a holding tank for the head.
thanks
adam
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New lights coming from SCADtech soon that will change the price point…
On 12/31/2009 7:51 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pete
As I recall at my last visit to West Marine, replacement LED bulbs were in clusters. I purchased one with a bayonette mount and took a look at it as best I could. I couldn’t see the regulator, but there was little room in the base. I assumed that it probably had just a resistor in the base, but perhaps a small regulator. I purchased only one to see how it compared with the existing lamps in terms of color and brilliance. I like the light, but I must have a dozen or more of the things scattered throughout the boat. At about $50 each, I don’t think I have a $600 problem to solve. I might reconsider that next season if my budget holds up.Rich
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If they are using single high output LEDs, I would assume they ARE using switching regulators.
On 12/31/2009 7:16 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pete
The LED lamps I’ve seen are sealed. I can’t see the regulator. Should I assume they lack a switching regulator?Rich
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The units with switching regulators also have an inductive coil on the board which is usually a square part with two terminals and usually the largest thing on the board. Usually is the operative word here since there are a few regulators that have the coil built-in (and the chips are correspondingly very large) and there are some designs (SEPIC) that use two coils that can be wound on the same spool, so the inductor will have four terminals.
Driving high brightness LEDs without a switching regulator is a recipe for pre-mature failure and we have boxes and boxes of less expensive and more poorly engineered products that customers have brought to us that failed early… which they then replaced with SensiBulbs. Thermal management and RFI must be sell managed for LED life, consistent color and brightness over life and for use on boats, respectively.
Now you are and expert too ;^)
Pete
On 12/31/2009 1:07 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:That’s good to know Pete. I wasn’t aware that the switcher regulators were used. Maybe that’s why the bulbs are so expensive. How can I tell that the regulator is a switcher and not linear?Rich
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As your group’s LED expert (designer of the SensiBulb) I would agree with Rich at one level, but say that the majority of new LED products use switching regulators with hysteric feedback. The efficiency curves on these are reasonably flat, for example in the 85 to 90% range over their entire voltage range. They don’t really function as simple current regulators but rather provide a saw-tooth high frequency signal to the LEd; pulsing the LEDto maintain an *average* current . It is very important that the designer takes great care with filtering to keep from having this pulsed signal, over its entire frequency range, interfere with your HAM or SSB radios… but that is another story… Bottom line is that the brightness of the LED is maintained as a constant over a large voltage range and worrying about voltage drop on the wiring to the LED fixture is a poor allocation of copper.
Happy New Year,
Pete
On 12/31/2009 9:16 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Cheap LED bulbs use a series resistor to limit current and have a narrow operating range. Better bulbs use a current regulator and have wider voltage ranges. Unfortunately, they become increasingly innefficient when they are run at higher voltages. The regulator has to keep the current in the LED at a constant value. It consumes power to do this. The higher the voltage the more power that is consumed by the regulator. There are some switching regulators that are very efficient, but I don’t think they are used in LED circuits. The more typical current regulator uses a pair of transistors and a single resistor.Running a small gauge wire to the lights may cause the lamp to run poorly at the low end of the voltage rating but will have no impact on brightness or efficiency at higher voltages. I don’t run my batteries down so the lights would probably never see below 11v. Budgeting a 10% loss in the wiring will raise the low operating voltage from 10v to 11v.
At least one thing is in our favor. As batteries discharge, their voltage drops off, so the LED lamps become more efficient as the battery bank gets lower.
Regards
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On 12/31/2009 7:59 AM, Rich Carter wrote:
… Previously shaft bearings were made of Lignum Vitae, a kind of wood. …
Lignum Vitae, also known as “iron wood” is one of two woods that naturally don’t float. The other one is Natalie Wood. ba dum bump…
Pete
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