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Hi Guys-
Well, Annapolis, MD is equally inconvenient to Indiana, so you could come here and Clairebuoyant!
QuentBack in May 2008, Rich published a spreadsheet of the internal parts of the RV-20 that was immensely helpful. Alas, I can’t get it to download. If you read this, Rich perhaps you could put it up again?
Thanks,
QuentHi Tor-
Re break in, perhaps a question best directed to Walter. Be sure to add oil, and realign to prop shaft. One interesting feature of the v-drive is that at least one of the oil drain plugs has a magnet to collect metal worn off gears and bearings. A good check of the internal condition. There was a good sized gob of steel filings on a similar plug on the trans of my ’97 Ford Ranger, but it’s still running good.
You might want to order a copy of the Walter RV-20 service manual as well.
QuentWhat is especially annoying is that the USCG just changed from a form that you could fold, stamp and mail with the scanable id and signature on the outside. This could simply be scanned without much handling.
Now they require you to mail the form back in an envelope. Not only you you have to supply the envelope, but the processer has to open it, unfold the form and create a trash pile of envelopes.
Sounds like we are back to the wonderful world of “reinventing government.”
QuentLooking at the Walters RV-20 manual, it appears that there is only one gear case housing, and that it is different from the RV-20D that bolts directly to the transmission. The angle housing and gear ratio have to be right, but these parts could be reused from the old v-drive.
There is a used RV-20 on Ebay that is in Ohio and presumably used in fresh water that might be worth considering just to get the gear case and water passage cover.
QuentFolks-
I may have gotten the last RV-20 gear case available a few years ago. I also replaced the bearings and seals. Got these parts from Transmission Marine in Florida:
http://www.marinegears.com/catalog/cat.html
Have not ordered from them recently, but they might be worth a call or email. If your case is not rusted through, the v-drive is not unfixable.
QuentHi Chuck–
Did you use flat head bolts as in fig.1? Doesn’t look like the countersink necessary to mount them flush leaves much of a grip on the hull. Real strength would then depend on how well the backing plate is bonded to the hull. Hauling out in a couple weeks and may revisit the seacock installation.
QuentHi Dennis-
Sorry about the missing pictures. Article is pretty old.
The tiller arm I used was the longer one in the link, It has the 1.5″ bore and is keyed to the rudder shaft. It’s mounted below the steering quadrant about where your old A/P quadrant is mounted.
The old A/P quadrant looks like it was made by Edson, the same company that made most P-424 steering systems. They make good gear and seem to be very helpful. You might want to shoot them an e-mail. They might suggest a solution. My experience however was that they don’t recommend attaching a linear drive to a quadrant.
Likewise, you might also contact Raymarine. Maybe you could figure out a way to get the more modern A/P computer to control the rotary drive and have the best of both systems.
Fair winds,
QuentHi Dennis-
Looks like the original A/P was a rotary chain drive setup, with most of the mechanism still there. You might want to consider taking both tiller arms off and replacing with something a little easier to service.
If you need an upper bearing to support the rudder shaft, you can get them in bronze. Here is a link describing both:
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/parts/2,697.html
A little spendy, but reliable.
We did an A/P install in our P-424 which was written up in Jan/Feb 2003 in Ocean Navigator magazine and is still available on their website.
Good luck with it!
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant, #132We replaced all of Clairebuoyant’s seacocks on the initial refit a decade ago. She is a 1981. All the seacocks were bronze Perko brand. Although they had flanges, none were through-bolted, just held in place by the screwed down through-hull fitting. No backing plates. Replaced all, as replacement as cheaper than rebuilding internal plastic parts.
We used fiberglass laminate about 1/4″ thick salvaged from a boatbuilder’s dumpster for backing plates. Some of the hull structure at the curve of the bilge was quite thin and required building up to support the through-hull fitting. Mostly I omitted bolting flanges on the new seacocks. Didn’t seem like a good idea to drill so many new holes in the boat.
To remove, I suggest you use a Moto tool with fiberglass cut off discs to cut just below the mushroom end of the through-hull fittings. Much less effort than grinding them off.
Re bonding, there seems to be multiple theories on this. I decided not to bond, except for lightning.
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant, #132Hi Pete-
I’m sure it is a great TV if you get a good one. Also, I’ve got no problem with the retailer. I just should have paid attention to their 30 return policy. In the end, J&R did the right thing. My message is only beware of the manufacturer’s warranty policy, and open it when you get it.
Thought about following Tor’s advice and leaving the TV out but they are good for local weather and stuff like that. I think dry camping in Walmart lots across the country, I’d cave on getting one anyway. Might as well do it now.
QuentHi Tor-
I’m retired from government, so I’ve been on both sides of the angry complaint. Amazing how many times someone who answers complaints will simply get their back up and not listen to a legitimate problem. Organizations, as you point out, sometimes won’t respond until colateral damage is obvious. In this case, the retailer to their credit relented when I promised a candid review on Amazon. TV is all boxed up, ready to go back at their expense.
TV was for Harvey, our new to us stealth van RV. Named after the invisible rabbit since our community has a rule against RVs, but not vans. You have inspired us to do a little land cruising this year. Thanks again for the advice.
Will pull a 13″ TV/dvd player out of Clairebuoyant, replace it with a 19″ TV from the house. Who knows what DVDs Claire will take on Harvey. She has Perfect Storm and Titanic on the boat.
QuentAlas, I feel the need to warn everyone on this product. If you buy it, test it immediately when you get it. As someone described on Amazon product reviews on this TV, if it has a major picture defect as mine did right out of the box, Naxa calls it a “cracked screen” and voids the warranty. There was no evidence of trauma on the TV or the packaging.
Had they not voided the warranty, it still would have to be shipped to California at my expense and I would also have to pay an additional $25.
JR has agreed to take it back, but only if it has bit of the original packaging.
A shame, really. This would a nice little TV if it worked and the company supported it.
Quent
