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One problem we had with that shaft is that they tend to rust and tear up the v-drive o-ring. I think that if I had to have one fabricated, I’d use a piece of stainless prop shaft.
QuentThere once was a girl from Le Marin,
whose bladder was full to the brim.
Said she with a grin
I know it’s a sin
I just hope I’m not going swimin’!
Q
Rights reserved, except fot TorExplains why so many trucks drift out of their lanes.
This is also a safety issue as many male overboard bodies are found with their zippers down.
QuentJim posted a description of Revery, a 1983 P-424 cutter on April 4th. I’m guessing this is the boat. She appeared to be a well equipped vessel owned by an experienced sailor.
Jim-
Is she listed with a broker, or for sale by owner? Do you have any pictures that you could post or share?
QuentHi Dan
Just to clarify the issue, Clairebuoyant’s hull identification number (hin) is PEA59132M81B. 59 is the code for a P-424, then three digit sequential number of hull, then model year, then build month starting with A for August, B for September, and so on. So she was built in September 1980 as a 1981 model.
Your hin is probably PEA59135M81B or C.
Best regards,
QuentTor
I’m still here until she’s sold.
Dan
The document shows her completed in 1980, the hull number ends in 81. Apparently 1981 is the Pearson model year. She came with a W-58 instead of a W-60, I’m not aware of any other difference between the two years.
QuentAlan
Before you reinstall the tank, you might want to consider installing a high volume fuel cleaning system. These tanks are failing because water accumulates under the diesel, becomes acidic, and eats small holes in the bottom of the tank. Make the cleaning system pickup closer to the bottom than the engine pickup, then run it periodically and every time you fill up.
Cleaning the fuel using the engine can be an expensive proposition.
QuentI agree with Rich. Most stock alternators are designed only to recharge the power used to start, then to power accessories. They aren’t meant to recharge depleted batteries on a cruising boat.
Several options come to mind. An externally regulated Balmar or other “marine” alternator that is loaded below its “hot” rating, a really robust commercial, preferably large frame alternator, or one of the above with the diodes relocated to a cooler location. Or in our situation, just use two alternators driven by the same regulator. Electrically, the regulator sees the pair as one big alternator.
We also have a dc genset with remotely mounted diodes and a 160 amp alternator. Now has lots of holes in the case where the diodes were for cooling air. Seems to work well, but we’ve never really tested it hard.
If anyone is interested, I’ve got a couple big alternators, max 200 amps, happy all day at 160 amps, large frame, sitting in the garage.
QuentHi Dave
Some voltage regulators monitor alternator temperature and reduce charge rate if the alternator overheats. Seems like a good idea.
The perfect storm of fried diodes is the combination of the depleted agm batteries, engine running at slow idle, then running the anchor windlass. Under these circumstances, the alternator can fail pretty quickly. Running at fast idle produces more power, and helps cool the alternator.
QuentHi Tor
Our most recent batteries are Sam’s Club AGM GC, six in total. I understand these to be Deka batteries, identical to Deka labeled but a good bit cheaper. We replaced a set of eight Interstate wet gc batteries that we got in Vero Beach in 2009. The agms spent the winter on the charger so I don’t really know how good they are. I think the six AGMs should have the acceptance rate of eight wet cells.
We also installed 3 size 31 Sam’s Club AGMs in the van, and i’m very happy with them. They seem to hold voltage under load very well, and charge quickly.
AGMs are different than gell cell batteries that are said to be charge voltage sensitive. Everything I’ve read suggests that agm perimeters are similar to wet cell batteries, but time will tell.
One caution I’ve heard about AGMs is that if you run them down, they have a high acceptance rate, meaning that they will max your alternator longer than similar wet cells. So if you anchor out and deplete your batteries, run your engine a bit faster so that the alternator fan can pull more air past the diodes.
QuentHi Rich
Have one of those brackets on my W-58 with a York compressor. When that refrigerator system was replaced with a dc system, we found that the bracket worked well to mount a second alternator. Alternator just fits on the bracket you mentioned to mount a sanden compressor.
Having two 100 amp alternators and now agm batteries really speeds up the recharging process when we anchor out. Both are run on one external 3 stage regulator.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132
