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quent
ParticipantKen
You didn’t say what your temperature guage was doing. Sounds like your coolant isn’t circulating properly. This could cause localized heating in the engine. Suggest you use one of those ir thermometers to see if there is any hot spot. See if the thermostat is working properly and is the right model. Should have a disc on the bottom to cut off recirculation through the block after the engine is warm. I’m guessing that the 71c is similar to the 58 as they are same base engine. Any kind of goo in thermostat housing?
Did you bleed air at the thermostat housing when you replaced coolant? Could be airlocked and not circulating.
Next, check the heat exchanger for debris obstructing flow on raw water side. This will reduce cooling efficiency enough to cause overheating at high rpm.
Any oil in the coolant, or contamination in the oil?
Don’t run out to buy a new head gasket just yet…
Quentquent
ParticipantWow, Bob! Enough info to reassemble my garage engine.
Qquent
ParticipantA pump for about $100 is a pretty good deal.
First I would loosen the alternator and remove the belt(s) Then turn the pump pully and see if there’s any play or rumbling from the bearings. The weep hole is there to allow any coolant that gets past the shaft seal to leak out before it gets to the bearings.
If the bearings are worn, you can probably find generic replacements. The shaft seal however is a spring loaded face seal and you will probably have to get that from Westerbeke, Perkins, or a pump supplier.
You will also need access to a hydraulic press to remove the pulley flange. Not a big job, but requires the right parts and equipment.
If the pump needs a rebuild, suggest you remove it and examine the rotor end. I’ve seen one on which the rotor blades were corroded badly.
While you have the pump off, consider removing the upper and lower thermostat housings, replacing the short hose between the pump and the thermostat housing and cleaning out any crap in there. Unless, of course, any of the bolts are seized, in which case just replace the pump.
Quentquent
ParticipantCould be worse. We once briefly owned a Newport 41. Nice boat, but the entire engine drive although aligned with the boat, was on the port side a couple feet off the centerline.
Our first task was to take her out of a crowded marina. After a couple boat lenghts, she finally had enough speed on that she stopping turning to starboard, and my heart started beating again.
QuentFebruary 21, 2014 at 7:57 pm in reply to: Hey, I just put a new drawer in the v berth and need a finge #80631quent
ParticipantCheaper than shipping a whole hull.
QFebruary 19, 2014 at 3:21 pm in reply to: Hey, I just put a new drawer in the v berth and need a finge #80607quent
ParticipantNope. Best I could do was Seateak, 1″ hole. Best bet, find a small finger crew, rig up a piece of coat hanger. Did you try all of your fingers?
Maybe make one on a lathe, or get creative with hole saws.
QFebruary 19, 2014 at 1:59 pm in reply to: Hey, I just put a new drawer in the v berth and need a finge #80605quent
ParticipantYeah, did that. It’s now when Claire puts the stuff she doesn’t want to share with me.
Qquent
ParticipantAssembly required. No fatal flaws that I could find, and some extra gaskets. You are first in line if it doesn’t go with the boat.
Qquent
ParticipantNo track on mine, either. We did add a Solent stay, and purchased a hank on storm jib for it, but have never used it.
Quentquent
ParticipantSome t-hulls in Clairebuoyant are overcome by events. We no longer have water cooled refrigeration or a watermaker, so that’s four. If we pull out the dc kubota genset that’s two more. Hate to give up our massive investment in bronze seacocks, but all for the greater good.
Got my doubts about the sea chest concept. Seems like a lot of plumbing below the waterline. Recently saw a very pretty Tayana 48 with a custom fabricated stainless steel sea chest box that failed at a weld. Sort of an all the eggs in one basket problem maybe.
Quentquent
ParticipantLots of good advice here. Hole has got to go. I agree with Tor, find a good fiberglass guy, especially if the hull isn’t real thick at that location. Good advice above on woven fiberglass material. Don’t use mat.
Epoxy will stick to the hull better than polyester which forms a relatively weak secondary bond, hence the need for a long taper for contact area.
Clairebuoyant has 22 through hull openings, counting the transom. Gives me something think about on a long night off shore.
Quentquent
ParticipantA couple questions:
Is there a seacock on the through hull?
If so, what’s it’s condition?
Is the through hull plastic or bronze?
Is it above or below the waterline?
Location?
Quentquent
ParticipantMaybe Adam could just send the desired parts?
Quentquent
ParticipantHi Skip,
That will be really great if it works. Does the impeller kit include the bearing seal?
Quentquent
ParticipantMake sure that the connections are the same. Can’t speak to profurl, but on harken different generations won’t always fit each other.
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