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I found mahogony. you might be able to finish them to look OK.
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=437Rich
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I re-rigged several years ago. I have a sloop, which is the same as the tall ketch without the mizzen. What I paid probably has no bearing on what costs are today. I paid about $13K, but this included new roller-furling and lacked mizzen rigging. I replaced everything except the mast and boom. Here are some things to consider.
Swaged rigging is cheaper but may not be as reliable as mechanical rigging like Norseman or Sta-Lock. The lower fittings usually fail sooner than upper fittings, particularly if you winter in an area that freezes. For this reason, some folks use swaged fittings for the upper terminal and mechanical for the lower.
http://www.jordanyachts.com/archives/1668
Some folks get longer fittings and re-use the wire. The longer fittings let you cut the old terminals off. Since the uppers are usually in good shape, you can leave them alone if they pass inspection. If you reuse your wire, mechanical terminals can be reused if you regret the decision 5 years later.
http://www.s3i.co.uk/sta-lok-long-eye.php
You might consider going up one size if you’re replacing the wire. I went up one size.
Now is the time to consider an insulated backstay or triatic for a SSB antenna. You’d need a pair of these.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|344|2028694|2029017&id=338881You might want to pull and inspect your chain-plates. I did this last year. It took about 16 hours to pull, clean, inspect, and replace mine. It was a PIA to take apart the interior cabinets but it wasn’t difficult. The worst part was removing bronze screws that had stripped heads. I ended up drilling the heads off half of mine. I used a flap-sander to clean the chain-plates. I found some pitting but no cracks.
BTW: When I put my boat in storage last fall, I noticed that my gooseneck is cracked. I suggest that owners inspect theirs. I plan to have mine welded.
Regards
Rich
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I don’t have the W-58 so I can’t comment on the coolant drain, but here’s a link to my favorite tool. I can’t say for sure that this would help you in this instance but I find them very helpful.
I have one set of metric and one set of SAE on my boat and another set at home. With two wrenches, you have 8 sizes. They work very well. If I don’t know the size, I just grab all 4 and stuff them in my rear pocket. I have both metric and SAE covered that way, 16 sizes in total.
Rich
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Bob
It’s been a while since I had to certify a raft. Your quoting the certification price at $1200 and the cost of a new raft at $600. Does this make sense?Rich
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Ken
I assume that you have the cutless bearing in by now. My yard used a threaded rod to press mine in many hears ago.I don’t remember that getting the shaft perfectly centered in the strut was a problem. The strut is slightly off center to facilitate shaft removal and counter the tendency of the boat to kick to port while underway. With enough power however, the force to port will overcome the autopilot.
Align the prop shaft and V-drive first. Get that pretty close but don’t go nuts since it will change once you get the boat in the water and let her sit for a couple of days. Align the engine to the V-drive jack-shaft using the tool provided by Walter. This is not critical and won’t have to be redone. If your engine shaft is out of alignment to the left or right, you need to change the roll angle on the V-drive. This should not be a problem however. Your engine may be low on her mounts if your mounts are old or if the engine bed has sagged.
Let the boat sit for a couple of days and carefully align the V-drive to the prop shaft using Walter’s instructions. Take the boat out for a short trip and run her up to max RPMs. If you have vibration, repeat. I had to do it about four times to get it right. I’m within about .002″
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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All you have to do is reach in on the side of the injector pump and pull the shutoff lever. Some are connected to a cable that you pull and others are connected to a solenoid actuator that you activate with a button or are energized by the key-switch. I’ve never seen a diesel engine without one.
Rich
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I have a stainless shaft and prop. I honestly don’t know what alloy these are made from but for what they cost me it should be gold. Both are holding up fine after approx 7 years. I keep my zincs serviced. I paint the shaft and prop with spray outdrive paint and pettit zinc coat primer. This does nothing for the area inside the stern tube and cutless.
Rich
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I replaced my cutless bearing about 20 years ago. It still seems fine, but I don’t do a lot of motoring, maybe 150hrs/yr. Most of my motoring is done in deep water where the water is clear too. I had an annoying vibration problem many years ago. At about 1600 RPM, the shaft would vibrate, to the point where I didn’t want to run at speeds over 6kts. I removed the shaft and sent it out for inspection. The machine shop put it on a flat table and rolled it. You could see a slight bend at the end near the threads. I’m sure this was the culprit. A new shaft and careful alignment fixed the problem. I replaced everything else at the same time however, prop, v-drive, engine, etc. I can run at 3800 RPM now with only a slight vibration. I usually run at about 2500RPM though. At that speed, the engine purrs and there is almost no vibration. I have a 2.5:1 reduction instead of 2:1 so it’s not as fast as it might sound. If you get everything right, the boat really motors well.
As I recall, when I replaced the cutless, it made an annoying hum for about a year. I think it had to break in or something.
There are two setscrews on the cutless bearing. Paint and bottom growth might make finding them a challenge. Use a flap-sander to clean the skeg. Most boat yards have a special tool to remove the bearing. Even with this, they frequently have to cut them out. It’s a PIA to replace.
Rich
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The solenoid attaches to a lever on the side of the injection pump. You can manually push the lever.
Rich
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Don’t assume that it’s your prop. It may be any number of things including the V-drive or cutless bearing. Start by checking the oil in your V-drive. Inspect the V-drive and it’s mounts for signs that something has come loose, particularly the mounts and adjustment screws. Inspect the U-joints where the jack-shaft attaches to the engine for wear. All this is cheap, easy, and should be done periodically anyway.
Your problem description is a bit vague. Does it sometimes work smoothly and sometimes vibrate? If so, what’s different about when it’s smooth vs vibration?
Rich
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I can’t seem to find a photo that shows our dodger/bimini/enclosure up. I attached the best photo I could find.
We have a sloop, so there is no mizzen to get in the way of the enclosure. If you have a ketch, I have no idea how you can put a bimini over the cockpit. If you have a cutter, the boom is farther aft, so you’ll need a shorter bimini.
The dodger is below my eye-level when standing. I can stand under the bimini. There is a windscreen that zips between the two. In light rain, it keeps the cockpit fairly dry. There’s a mosquito-net enclosure that zips under the bimini and encloses the entire cockpit. It not only keeps the bugs out but helps keep the cockpit dry when it rains. It won’t entirely keep the water out if it rains hard however since it’s only netting. The forward windscreen in the dodger can flip up and we can zip in a screen panel there to help get air into the cockpit sans bugs. You’d never get on and off the boat with the thing up if we didn’t have the second companionway. The enclosure is in two pieces with a zipper down the back. You can unzip this to get at the BBQ or swim platform.
The bimini takes but a minute to uncover and drop. Two straps with snaps connect it the the dodger frame. We don’t usually put connecting windscreen in because it cuts off air circulation to the cockpit. We rarely put the netting up because it’s a bit of a pain to put up and my wife doesn’t like getting closed in.
Even if you decide to skip the enclosure, order your bimini with zippers all the way around. You can add the enclosure later.
I put a row of snaps down the middle of the combing. The enclosure snaps to these.
The whole thing was expensive. I don’t remember exactly how much but it was about $3500 for the dodger, $1500 for the bimini, $700 for the connecting windscreen, and $1500 for the netting. Prices vary wildly from shop to shop as does quality.
Regards
Rich
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Tor
Either you’re smaller than me or your sump is bigger. If I got down there, you’d need the jaws-of-life to get me out. At some point in time, someone did some glass work down there and then dropped the bilge pump hose back down before the epoxy dried. A section of hose is now glued to the bottom of the bilge. This means that I can’t get to the bottom for cleaning or even to pump the sump dry. I power wash the bottom every now and then and use a shop vac to get the water out. This is a bit of a waste of time since water soon finds its way back in there. A splash of bleach keeps the odor down. If the sump were just about 18″ higher I could reach the bottom for cleaning.Regards
Rich
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Ken and Vicky,
Check the archives. Maybe there’s a thread about filling the keel. It’s been discussed many times over the years. Sorry, I don’t remember the details.I’ve hauled and shipped my boat home for the past 27 years. I’ve always blocked both the keel and the rudder skeg, blocking only the forward half of the keel. While it may be possible to block the aft section of the keel, I don’t want to take chances. Blocking the skeg is probably not necessary but it makes me feel better. I take personal charge positioning the jackstands and blocks. While the folks working in the yard mean well, they don’t know the 424 and some of them don’t know the pointy end from the blunt end.
Rich
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Over the past few years, I’ve given serious consideration to filling the keel. I hate that deep sump. I have tools dropped down there that have been missing for decades. After hearing this horror story, I think I’ve dropped the idea of filling it. I considered dumping blocks of pressure treated wood down there and then filling the void with concrete. What stumped me was a good way to get the filler to stick to the inside of the sump. If water got in there, subsequent freeze/thaw cycles would cause the filler to separate from the keel.
Someone filled their keel with concrete and then glassed over the top many years ago. This may be #91. If so, you’ll need a jack-hammer to get rid of the stuff.
Rich
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