Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I have the same arrangement with my spreaders. I don’t know if the spreaders are bent there. I don’t remember seeing any bend but the spreaders can be moved quite a bit when in place. I think they can droop as much as a foot at the tip. I put wire clamps under the spreader tips so that they can’t droop. I don’t like the arrangement Pearson or Metalmast used. Other boats have more robust attachments to the mast. I’ve considered doing something about this but it’s on the list of things that aren’t broken but aren’t right. I may never get to it.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve mentioned this a few times in the past. Please excuse me if you’ve read this description before.
I use a plastic trash-bag and white duck-tape for my mast boot. I wrap the mast and collar with the trash-bag and then wrap the bag with duck-tape. I’ve never had a leak and the price is right. I start at the bottom and wrap my way up the mast for a length of about 16 inches. I have a cloth collar that hides the tape. I wrap the top of this with white vinyl tape just to make it neat. West used to sell the cloth collar but I no longer see it in their catalog. They last about 15 years or so. It’s just for looks and it keeps sunlight off the tape. I sewed a new one up last season. It has a bungee cord sewn in the bottom to hook into the mast collar.
It takes a real man to work a sewing machine.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Sorry,
I should have been clearer. I use the bladder tank for transporting water, not fuel. I don’t think I’d want to deal with the mess of spilled diesel. If I need fuel, I bring the boat to the fuel dock.Regards
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
I bought a 20 gal bladder tank and a 12v utility pump. Whenever I go ashore, I fill the bladder tank. When I return to the boat, I pump the contents into one of my tanks. This more than keeps up with consumption. I got the pump at harbor freight.Unless I were making a very long distance trip, I would think 80 gal provided by Pearson should be more than enough. If I wanted more fuel, the dead space under the galley table would make an ideal place to add extra fuel storage.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The first time I went to Bermuda, I got the snot beat out of me on the way. I ended up with structural damage up forward. I found the island charming and the people very friendly. Everything there is shipped in so it’s not a cheap destination. I had crew flying in so I had them bring provisions in their luggage. I bought a set of admiralty charts before I left. For some odd reason, it takes a dozen or so charts to cover what is no bigger than Cape Cod. They were expensive and awkward. Once I got there, I found a single local chart that covers the entire island. I have no idea where you get them here.
The second time I cruised there, I took a bigger boat, about 900 feet longer. It was a much more pleasant cruising even though the weather was similar, about 25kts from the south, 15 foot seas. We passed some poor bastards on about a 55 foot sailboat beating into the harbor. They looked miserable, sitting on the rail dressed in their fowelies! If you want to put a notch in your gun, cruising to Bermuda should be on your list. It can be a miserable crossing and is not for the faint of heart. Since the wind is frequently from the south or west, crossing from a more southern departure point can be a but easier.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
There are three alignments necessary for the V-drive.
1 – The V-drive must be aligned to the prop shaft coupling. This is very tricky and critical. I find that I must be closer than the specs published by Walter in order to get smooth operation. I forget what tolerance Walter calls out in their manual and I don’t have a copy handy. I think I had to get it to within .002 for smooth operation at up to 1500 RPM on the prop shaft. Patience is needed to get this right. Use feeler gauges. Loosen the flange bolts a bit to expose a bit of space. Rotate the shaft to four 90 degree positions. Measure gap at each of four 90 degree positions on the flange. Move the v-drive accordingly to get the best fit. If rotating the shaft shows a different tolerance, try to spit the difference and get an average gap. If the difference is huge, the flange may be bent. Take the boat out and run her at full speed. If you have vibration, do it all over again.
2 – The V-drive must be aligned to the input shaft. Walter provides a key for this. You slide the key around the shaft and verify that it looks straight and centers the shaft in the shaft seal. This alignment here isn’t critical. You do this before item-1 above. You would have to raise or lower the V-drive or move it left or right to get this correct. You might also move the engine up or down somewhat but this doesn’t do much. Engine position should be adjusted for item-3 below.
3 – The engine must be aligned to the input jack-shaft. You use a steel ruler for this. This isn’t especially critical either but you want this close. The universal joint in the jack-shaft isn’t a CV joint. Misalignment can cause vibration. You move the engine mounts up or down to pitch the engine correctly. If left-right isn’t correct, you’d have to move your engine mounts accordingly.
Removal of the shaft coupling is typically done using a socket. You remove the coupling bolts and lock screw. Pull the shaft back and put a socket between the shaft and V-drive flange. You then re-insert the coupling bolts and tighten them. This forces the coupler off the shaft. BE CAREFUL TO TIGHTEN EVENLY. If you don’t do this evenly you can bend the coupling. When replacing the shaft, it’s best to send the coupler out to the machine shop and have them check it anyway but you don’t want to bend the coupler on the V-drive!
Hope this makes it all clear
Rich
Blacksheep #47
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent
I sent my wind sensor out a year ago and had it serviced. He did a nice job. His contact info is below.(727) 363-6488
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dave
So how does it work? Does it have an interface box that connects to the Nexus bus?
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent
I don’t think the wireless wind sensor will work with the classic or NX-2 servers. They use the wired wind sensor. Offhand, I see no advantage to a wireless wind sensor. There must be batteries up there that need to be replaced. I have a wire harness running up my mast anyway. An extra cable for the wind sensor is no issue.Since Garmin has purchased Nexus, I assume that they will become more popular and more expensive. They used to be a very cost effective instrument set. They will likely become high-end products. It’s nice to see that someone will be advancing the product line. It may integrate better with new instruments in the future.
Now may be the time to get spare parts.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John,
I can’t imagine why your cable would stiffen up like that unless somehow water got into the cable. It’s inside the binnacle so this shouldn’t be an issue. My cable was about 25 years old when I replace it. I had to replace it because it was too short after I repowered. There was nothing wrong with it. I assume that the problem is in your cable and not a problem with the pump. You can verify this by disconnecting the cable at the pump lever and checking. You’ll eventually break the cable if you keep forcing it.You can also check the edson levers by disconnecting that end and working the lever. Be very careful disconnecting the cable from the lever because there is a brass washer that can easily drop down the binnacle. I don’t see how the lever could jam like that.
You can try to lubricate the cable. There are products sold at motorcycle shops for that purpose including a clamp on fitting that allows you to force lube down the length of the cable. It should really be done from the top down. There are boat shops that lub cables but I think you have to remove them. If you’re going to the trouble to remove the cable you might as well replace it.
If it were my cable, I’d try to lub the cabe in place by removing the compass and putting drops of oil on the cable below the lever arm. You can purchase a squeeze bottle of lube with a long plastic hose at most hardware stores. I don’t know what the brand is but it comes in a white bottle that looks like an oil can. The cable might have a rubber cap over the end so getting oil in there might be difficult unless you can pull the cap away. Put a couple of drops on the cable end and work the cable back and forth so the oil gets into the cable.
If you decide to replace your cable, here’s a link with information.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/ControlCables.html
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
No, there is no coating on the inside of the cooling jacket. One would think they could have used something however. Years ago, I cleaned out my RV-20 and coated the inside with marine-tex. This stopped further corrosion and patched the old cooling jacket which was leaking into the gearbox. I considered doing the same thing with my RV-26 when I purchased it but there’s an oil-cooler coil in there. It would have been very difficult to coat the cooling passage. I decided to leave it alone and face replacing the cases if I still owned her down the line. Cases are available for the RV-26.I remember opening up the RV-20 cooling jacket for the first time when my boat was about 10 years old. By then, the inside of the jacket was coated with a thick layer of corrosion. At first I thought it must be mud or something since it partially obstructed waster from passing through there. Chips could be picked up with a magnet so it had to be rust. My RV-26 is now 6 years old. I was expecting to see quite a lot of corrosion in there but it was mostly clean. I quickly scraped out a small amount of rust. I can’t explain the difference.
The two plugs in the RV-20 jacket are for the oil-cooler, not intended for zincs. BTW: if you haven’t replaced those plugs, I suggest that you do so. They rust through more quickly than the cases. The V-drive cooling jacket cover has what appears to be an unfinished hole in the top for a zinc. One would think that you finish drilling the thing out and thread a zinc pencil in there. Walter may have planned this at one time. Without some kind of screen to keep zinc bits from clogging the downstream cooling system, this would not work as I think you found. As you probably know, you need to carefully flush out the cooling jacket after cleaning it otherwise chips will clog your engine heat-exchanger. I have yet to do this. I touch-up the paint on the V-drive each year. It’s bad enough to know it’s rusting way on the inside but I won’t have it rusting on the outside too. I find that blue Rustoleum works as touch-up. I don’t know what Walter uses for paint. Whatever they use is junk. My Yanmar engine has some kind of baked on coating that lasts forever. Why can’t Walter use something similar?
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’m not sure why my RV-26 gets warm and my RV-20 never did. I run the new engine harder than the old W60, but not that much faster. Maybe pumping the oil around warms it up. If I ran it without cooling, I’m sure it would get hot. One would think that an oil-cooler might be enough. I pulled the cover off last weekend and cleaned it out. It wasn’t bad after five years. I have no idea why the RV-20 seemed to rust so rapidly yet the RV-26 seems more robust. Are there different kinds of cast-iron that behave differently in salt-water?
If I still had an RV-20, I’d probably run it without cooling and put a temperature alarm on it to be safe.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
attached, please find a copy of that spreadsheet.
I rebuilt my V-drive back in 2001. I learned a lot about the gearbox in the process of disassembling and reassembling the thing. I wouldn’t do it again. It’s a lot of work and unless you are sure your cooling jacket will last another 10 years or more it’s not worth it. You need a special set of wrenches to get the gear box opened. I fabricated a pair and passed them on to another owner. Unfortunately, I forgot who I gave them to. The unit is mechanically well designed, but the cooling system is an issue. If you could keep the darn thing from rusting through and if you change the oil every once in a while, I think it would probably last indefinitely. We’ve beat this dead horse too much over the years. I wish there was some practical way to convert it to freshwater cooling. I’m about to open my RV-26 cooling jacket up for a periodic cleaning. This thing has an oil-cooler in the jacket so it will be more difficult to clean out. I’m not looking forward to it.
As I recall, there is no break-in procedure for a new V-drive other than putting an additive in the gearbox. I forgot what they recommend. There’s a reference to this in the manual.
I touch-up the paint on my V-drive each spring with blue rustoleum. It’s bad enough to have it rust through from the inside but there is no reason to let it rust on the outside. They should have used a better coating.
Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I received that too. I frankly don’t care if they add a $26 fee as long as they make it easy to renew. Considering the cost of running the boat, it’s down in the noise.
I just renewed my master’s license. They now look exactly like a passport but with a red cover. It has a pocket in there for putting your TWIC. I don’t know what I’ll do with the wood frame I put on the bulkhead next to my nav station where I displayed it previously. Perhaps I’ll post a photocopy of the new license.
Rich
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum