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Dan
See https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/rcarterinterior/P8180010 . The photo isn’t very good. I added a rack to hold the hatchboards. I also hinged the hatchboards together to limit the number of incorrect ways to insert them to 3.Regards
Rich
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Pat
It depends on your engine.
Slip a zip-lock bag with paper towels in the bottom over the fuel filter before removal. This will catch most of whatever spills.With my old W60 which was a bear to bleed, I found that if I could avoid getting air into the high pressure pump, changing filters was pretty easy. I would first crack a bleed screw on the top of the filter and fill that until fuel spilled out, then close that. Then crack the fuel input line on the high pressure pump and continue bleeding until bubbles stopped coming out. Then close that. If done right, the engine would start right up. Bleeding was done with an electric fuel pump I put in series with the mechanical lift pump. You can do it with the mechanical pump but its tedious.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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John
I’ll be coming in on the Norweigan Spirit. We’re supposed to berth at the opposite end of the island, but you never know. They sometimes change these plans. If I can make it to St George, I’ll look you up. We too would enjoy meeting. Will you have a cellphone number available?The last time I sailed there, I rented a slip in Dockyard, that’s near Kings Wharf at the other end of the islands. It was very nice and more cost effective than St. George. Its not as close to the nightlife and such however, so its not for everyone. There is a nice beach closeby and the fort is worth a visit.
Regards
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Linus
I have the same problem and my butt’s not getting any smaller these days. I hadn’t thought of cutting an access hole, but that might be a good idea. The aft bulkhead is structural. I don’t want to cut any holes near the hull, but a foot or so away should be OK. I could put something like a plexyglass mirror over the hole. It would make folks think I’m kinky though 😉Rich
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Linus
I have a shower sump pan glassed in forward of the V-drive pan. this obstructs access to the aft section of the bilge sump which is very narrow anyway. There’s a bunch of hoses down there that add more obstructions. I never liked the shower sump pan. Its just a place for hair and other stuff to collect. I’m thinking of removing it this spring. That might open it up for cleaning a little more. I might use a power washer down there. That would clean it up nicely.Regards
Rich
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John
When I sailed there a few years back, I insured with Boat/US. That was my first offshore trip and they didn’t hassle me about experience. I was required to have the boat inspected and list crewmembers. I also had to attest to being proficient in celestial navigation. That’s about it.I’ll be on the island near Kings Wharf on June 25, 26 if anyone else is there. I’m arriving on a cruise liner, but I’d love to stop by and share a beverage if anyone is there.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep
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Don,
The upper anchor locker can flood in heavy seas if water comes over the bow faster than it can drain out that little drain hole. I wouldn’t suggest putting your vent lines in there. If you haven’t already done it, I suggest sealing the small space under your toe rail above the forward bulkhead to keep water from entering the forward cabin.A friend with a Vagabond has his vent lines run up inside his stanchions. That’s kind of neat since it keeps them out of the way.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Aaron
Is your toe-rail too thin to redrill the bung holes a little deeper and reset the fasteners? I’ve done that in several places already.Regards
Rich
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I block the boat with two blocks under the solid section of the keel and a short stack of blocks under the rudder skeg. I never block under the aft section of the keel and have never had a problem with winter layup.
One problem with the hollow keel is that if water gets in there during winter layup, it will freeze and may crack the keel. My cover isn’t quite water tight. There are provisions for masts and rigging that allow some snow or water to find its way onto the deck. A surprising amount of water can find its way into the bilge then, in spite of the cover. One source for water is the propane locker drain pipe. I’ve had it crack several times during winter layup. What happens is that a little water will collect in the pipe and freeze, clogging the pipe. Any additional water that finds its way in will back up in there and crack the pipe. I’ve had something similar happen to a deck drain hose but not since I replaced them all.
While it may sound comforting to know that you can stow a hundred gallons of water or more in the keel, it may not be of much use if you start taking on water. If you can’t pump it out at least as fast as it comes in, you’ll only delay the inevitable.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Impossible to clean. There’s odd tools and lost parts down there, never to be seen again. I’m too big to fit down there and I’m not persuasive enough to talk anyone into cleaning it for me.
Rich
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Alan
Something to consider, I used to have my radar mounted in my nav station. When I replaced it with an LCD unit, I put it at the wheel. I considered doing something you’re suggesting, but I don’t think I’d be able to read the display from the wheel, and there’s no way I could reach the controls to operate it. I really like it at the wheel as shown in the attached photo. If you need RADAR, you’re probably in either fog or darkness. If something sudden is seen, you don’t want to be running to the wheel. If you’re at the wheel, you don’t want to be having difficulty reading the display.If its raining, I usually sit on the bridgedeck under the dodger to stay dry while the boat runs on autopilot. Unfortunately, I can’t read the display from there. Its rare that I need to navigate by RADAR in the rain however. I don’t want to even think about a repeater. I suppose I could turn my unit around and have it face forward.
Regards
Rich
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Don
I may have been a little hard on you. I repowered my sailboat three years ago to the tune of over $21k just in parts. I did all the labor. I’m a working guy. I don’t have a big bank account nor a huge salary, so $21k was a big chunk of change for me. I’ll be paying it off for a few years.I bought the boat back in 1986. It was six years old at that time. The engine, boat and running gear were all in good condition and serviced regularly by me for the past 23 years. When I repowered, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the engine. I just couldn’t get parts for it anymore. Tossing a perfectly good engine because the manufacturer discontinued replacement parts pissed me off. You folks discontinued the RV-20. The cooling jacket in mine was gone and you had no replacement cases. I could have gone a few more years with the marine tex patch I installed, but since I was repowering, I decided to change the gear reduction at the same timer rather than wait a couple of years and replace the v-drive later. Changing the gear reduction gave me more choices in engine selection. Most of us only put about 100 hours on or engines every year, so even after 30 years of use, the engine and running gear doesn’t have all that much use.
Please consider this, all reputable marine engines are fresh water cooled, not seawater cooled. If having engines rust out from the inside were acceptable, owners wouldn’t be paying the extra cost for freshwater cooling. Why would we accept seawater cooling on our V-drive?
Regards
Rich Carter
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Quent,
Yes, I’ve considered that option. The RV-26 has an oil pump. It would be a simple retrofit and more reliable than adding a water pump and accumulator tank. Since the unit runs warm even with seawater cooling, I’m not sure there would be enough oil circulation to keep it cool. Walter won’t comment on the idea. Since they not only run seawater through the cooling jacket but also run an oil cooler through there, they must think the thing needs a lot of cooling.Sorry for all the ranting folks. I’m still pissed about how expensive it was to repower. The V-drive replacement cost was insane and for no apparent reason.
Regards
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I know, we do this to ourselves. We fail to innovate, building the same junk we made decades ago. Then some innovative foreign company cleans our clocks. Sounds like Detroit. Idiots! Its not like the customer base didn’t tell them. I get a strong feeling that Walter will do nothing.
Rich
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Don
We are a fleet of over 200 boats with your V-drive. While a lifespan of perhaps 30 years sounded great back in 1978 when Pearson started production on these things, it isn’t comforting 32 years later. Our units are at or near the end of their life. You discontinued production on cases for the RV-20. Replacement cases are not available, so the option to rebuild these units at this point in time is probably not viable. A replacement includes not only the V-drive, but also the splined shaft, rework to the V-drive pan and mounts, and perhaps labor charges to install and align the new V-drive. As I said in my last message, I’ve already replace my unit. Next to the engine, it was the most expensive part of the repower. For my replacement engine, I opted to go with Yanmar rather than Westerbeke because Westerbeke failed to provide replacement parts for the original engine. I would have preferred a different vendor to Walter for my V-drive for the same reason. At this point in time, you have a lock on the market. While I appreciate the “made in USA” aspect of your business and appreciate the need to balance quality vs price, you could have designed the RV-20 with a much longer life span; either by providing an optional freshwater cooling system, stockpiling sufficient replacement parts, using more corrosive resistent materials or coatings, or perhaps designing the cooling jacket as a single replaceable part. I suggest that you are leaving yourself open to a more agressive manufacturer. If you don’t accept constructive criticism from your customer base and feed it back into your engineering process, you will find yourself out of business. Please consider our complaints seriously. We find it unacceptable that you product rusts out. If you come up with a solution, please contact us. I’m sure most if not all of us would be interested in what you come up with.Here are some suggestions:
1 – A replaceable cooling jacket that bolts to the top of the V-drive and can be replaced without replacing the whole set of cases. This might bolt on top of the existing cases without modification or may require a different set of cases. Clearance might be an issue and what about the dip-stick?2 – A coating that protects the cases from rust. (application may be a problem on older cases or cases with oil cooling lines)
3 – An oil cooler that replaces the cooling jacket. Even though this may not last as long as the cases, its much easier and cheaper to replace a heat exchanger every decade or so than a set of cases or the entire V-drive after three decades.
4 – A freshwater cooling system with heat exchanger. We might be able to retrofit this by using an electric water pump and generic heat exchanger. I’ve considered such a project already. An over-temperature alarm would probably warn if the pump failed.
5 – Air cooling with an aluminum heat-sink.
Thanks again for your time
Regards
Rich Carter
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