Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I just bought one of these, but I paid $40 at the store. I’ll let you know how it works in a couple of weeks after I’ve had a chance to complete a project or two.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65700
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
p { margin: 0; }Don,
I’m the author of the subject notes. We have RV-20 gear boxes, not RV-10. I believe that my $650 quote was provided by your office about 8 years ago. This didn’t include labor but did include shipping. I don’t have my notes here, but I think I paid more than $400 for the rebuild kit. If I misunderstood the estimate, I appreciate the correction. We boat owners are used to getting wacked with unexpected charges whenever we hire someone. If it is uncommon for extra charges on one of these rebuilds, I’d appreciate that info.I rebuilt the old V-drive and had a great deal of difficulty getting the torque settings correct when re-assembling. The problem is that special tools are needed. I had to fabricate my own. I don’t think I’ll have the patience to do this again when my cases rust out in 20 years or so and I don’t recommend that owners attempt this. In fact, I doubt that these things are rebuildable anymore. The cases are most likely rusted to the point where its not work fixing.
I replaced the old unit with an RV-26 about three years ago when I repowered. My notes are linked here if you are interested in reading.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.htmlI had a negative comment regarding the quality of your product on my page. Of particular concern was the lack of a freshwater cooling option. This is a maintenance problem. The unit builds up rust scale which restricts cooling to the engine unless the jacket is cleaned every few years. It eventually destroys the cases. I discussed the possibility of using the engine cooling system to cool the V-drive and this was rejected by your technician. I also discussed the possibility of bypassing the cooling jacket and running the oil through a heat exchanger instead. This was also rejected. I invite you to comment on this issue. If there’s a way to prevent the unit from self-destructing, we’d like to know.
I dislike the paint that you use. Considering the cost of these units, you might find a more durable finish. The fasteners are steel. Since the unit is mounted in the bilge where it is damp, they rust. This can make disassembly difficult. The mounting fasteners at least should have been stainless. I think you’d have a nice product if you could address these complaints.
I opened up the cooling jacket on my new V-drive and cleaned it this winter after three seasons of use. There was a thin coating of corrosion inside the cooling jacket that came off with a sharp chisel. I expected more rust. Its hard to get in around the oil cooling lines to clean out the jacket. I cut my own gasket and flushed out the jacket to insure that any remaining chips were cleaned out. I hope that if I keep up with this I won’t endup with a mess like I did with my old v-drive.
Removal of the V-drive is not a big deal once you do it once. This is simple wrench work. Other than finding a way to get at some of the nuts and bolts that hold the unit in place, I’d rate it as a fairly easy task. Alignment is a bit of an art however. If you don’t have the patience to experiment and learn how its done, I suggest hiring an expert for this. In my opinion, there is no reason that a healthy owner couldn’t remove and replace the unit. They might chose to hire a mechanic for the final alignment. Replacing a rusted RV-20 with an RV-26 is non-trivial. The RV-26 is wider than the RV-20 and won’t fit in the engine pan unless new mounts are fabricated. In my opinion, if Walter wanted to discontinue the RV-20, they should have provided a better migration path to the new unit.
Regards
Rich Carter
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus
Thanks for the info. I somehow thought the shutoff was specific to boats and RVs. I’d like to replace the shower head too; its a piece of junk too. I’ll take a look at what’s available when I go to the home store. I’ll probably put in a drain plug somewhere below the shower valve to make sure it drains when I winterize.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob and John
I’ve been to both Lowes and Home Depot. I’d like to keep the existing shower head simply because it has a convenient shutoff on it. You can save a lot of water by shutting the head off when you’re lathering up. I tried to match a fixture that would accept a pipe thread for the shower hose, but no luck. Maybe I’ll go your route and put in a single-lever mixer. I’ll have to come up with some kind of fitting for the hose to connect.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
Are you sure it’s the same? The stuff in our hardware store is a hard
rubber; not the same material.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Adam
I’m not sure I understand what you are referring to. Perhaps you mean the
rubber gaskets under the deck fittings. As I recall, the stanchions and
pulpits on my boat were bedded with rubber gaskets by Pearson. The rubber
was redish in color and a soft material. I’ve looked for it at various
times but am unable to find it.Regards
RichQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Snaps. I replaced the velcro. It didn’t work.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/rcarterinterior/P8180009
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jack
Yes, they can be replaced. I suggest contacting Bowmar for the proper gasket material. I’m pretty sure they are still in business.Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You can cut the solent stay wire for the correct length when it is attached to the rail. When you want to attach it to the chainplate, add a short section to correct the length. I’ve collected all the parts but not yet hooked it up.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Phil
I cut squares of treadmaster for the top of each step. It looks nice, has a good grip, wears like iron, but covers the teak finish. Enough of the step is exposed and I think it looks great. Sorry no pictures.http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|311409|23415&id=23398
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat
From my experience, this isn’t enough. I think you still need to electropolish the item.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
If you chose to polish the item, send it out for electroplating. I fabricated a nice backstay chainplate and spent a couple of hours polishing it. It came out great, but tarnishes. I later learned that electropolishing takes out surface contamination. I had the same thing happen to stainless davits I made, but I just painted them over. It would have been easier if I skipped the polishing process and went right to paint.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
In case anyone else might want to try something similar, I purchased raw teak stock from a local lumber yard a couple of years ago and cut the stock down for a teak cabin sole using a table saw. I paid about $10/bd-ft. Its a little more expensive now, about $14. Most marine retailers sell teak boards, but its insanely overpriced.
Cut 1/4 inch thick, I got three square feet of flooring for each board foot. There’s some loss, so you need to plan about 25% more than what you compute. I recently purchased enough material to do the cockpit sole for about $150. You need a decent table saw and a sharp blade to cut teak.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John
I’m reluctant to cut holes in the cockpit sole. Even though they are supposed to get filled with epoxy when you are done, I don’t trust it. I’m planning to set in tile spacers. These are plastic things used to space floor tiles when you lay a floor. I’ll see how it works out. I may stock up on enough fasteners in case it doesn’t work out.Thanks for the tip
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
My previous boat had teak grates in the cockpit. No thanks. Dirt gets under there and is hard to keep clean. They’re also a pain to maintain. I’m planning to lay down a teak deck in the cockpit using the west system; just the cockpit sole and bridge deck. That’s about 25 sq feet.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/installing-a-teak-deck-on-zatara/
I plan to use weights to hold the pieces down rather than screws. The area is much smaller than a full deck and the pieces don’t need to be bent to follow a curve.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum