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I use interlux 2333n
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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John
I should have mentioned that the head on the multifuntion tool is larger than some of the detail sanders. I still find that I need to use my Royobi sander to get in around some of the more difficult to reach spots.A good friend of mine has a Vagabond 47. He has a real engine room. Boy, that would be nice! A place for a small workbench and room for some real tools like a bench-grinder and real drill-press.
Regards
Rich
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As I remember, my boat had the glow-plugs wired directly to a pushbutton switch next to the fuel shutoff lever in the cockpit. The switch proved unreliable due to the high load presented by the glow-plugs. I installed a solenoid switch on the engine next to the glow-plugs and used the pushbutton to actuate the solenoid switch. This worked much better. I bought the relay at a local RV supply store. It is normally used to connect a camper battery to the tow-vehicle charge system when the camper is towed. It was under $30. I used the same relays for my anchor windlass when they needed replacement. I also used one to replace a similar relay on my refrigeration system. The solenoid switches are inexpensive and work reliably, but they’re not marine 😉
Rich
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They are easy to test. Remove the wire from the end and put an ohm-meter on the terminal. You should read something like 1 ohm or less. If its an open circuit, you need to replace it. Another way to test them is to touch them after running them for a few seconds. The good plugs will be warm. Glow plugs are service items. This only works if the engine is cold however. They go bad after a few years. I have no idea why.
When my W60 was relatively new, it usually started with little or no time on the glow plugs. The last few years I owned the engine, it became difficult to start; taking as long as 30 seconds with the glow-plugs to start. My Yanmar has no glow plugs. I don’t miss them.
Regards
Rich
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Chuck
Why on earth did you pull your seacocks? It sounds like a lot of work. Was there something wrong with them? Mine all look fine after 31 years. I inject some grease into the valves every few years to keep them serviced.Regards
Rich
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Howard
My 424 has solid glass under the teak toe-rail. I’ve had no leaks there despite high loads on the track for over 30 years. I’d be surprised to find that yours leaks, but nothing is impossible. Are you sure that the track leaks or could the leak be elsewhere? I’ve had leaks under the stanchions and the chain-plates must be rebedded every few years. Could they be the source of your leak?If your leak is under the toe-rail, the question is “is the track leaking or is it the hull-to-deck joint?” Sealing the track would be fairly straightforward if you can get at the fasteners. The hull-to-deck joint would be much more difficult. I believe that Pearson used 5200 to bond the hull and deck. The toe-rail cap is screwed into this using stainless screws set with either polysulfide or silicone sealant. The track is then through-bolted to the rail cap. There are no other fasteners at the deck joint.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Please excuse me if I sound like I’m repeating myself. The starter is a service item. Think of it as an oil filter that needs service less frequently. If you want to dependably start your engine, you need to pull the starter every few years and send it out for service. A good starter shop should service your starter for less than $100. Removal is normally trivial. Considering the problems that a bad starter can cause and the relatively low cost of servicing the item, there is really no reason not to get it serviced regularly. While you have the starter out, clean off the contacts. I service mine every three years; even if there are no symptoms of problems. Each year I service one item in rotation, the starter, the alternator, the V-drive cooling jacket.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
You could use any number of primers suited to bronze, but I suggest that you just put the copper paint over the bronze. The paint won’t stick all that well but you can repaint each season. The strut is part of the grounding system on the boat and would make better contact with the water if you don’t cover it with an insulating paint. Rf grounds don’t really need to be in direct contact with water, but for lightning protection you want some contact. Tin or copper based paints should provide enough conductivity.Regards
Rich
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Lee
The formica laminate should remove with heat. I haven’t tried it on the 424, but I’ve done it on other surfaces. After removal, the adhesive may prove difficult to remove, but its a small area. I think you can sand it off. After removing the fiddles, heat the surface with a heat-gun or clothes iron. It should pull off.The sink question is a good one. My galley sink has some dents in it and should be replaced. I’ve not found a drop-in replacement. There are a number of options available if you are planning to replace the countertop anyway. There are numerous RV/Marine sinks on the market, but none are as deep as the original sink. I’ve found some custom sinks available that are close fits, but they run over $700. Here’s the closest match
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26723|824293&id=133460Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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One owner had his boat sink on a reef a few years back. He blamed the failure on the plastic fittings and replaced them all with bronze. Apparnetly, at least one of the plastic through-hulls ground off when rubbing on the coral and caused the boat to flood. Was it Pelican?
I’ve replaced a few of mine over the years, but went with plastic.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I like the finish the spray-on paint provides better. It seems to work OK. I still get a few barnicles on the shaft but they don’t stick well. My shaft and prop are both stainless. I polish them with a rotary scotch-brite pad on a drill and then spray on a clean coat each spring.
Rich
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I paint my running gear with outdrive paint each season. Its sold in a
small spray can at most marine outlets. I think its tin based.Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:
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Sorry, I have only one boom, the main. My setup is what Pearson rigged. I assume that Pearson used the same method on the mizzen, but I may be wrong.
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick
Not quite enough information. Do you leave your boat tied to a dock with a battery charger on when unattended or are you unplugged so the batteries could get depleted? When you switch off your batteries, does this disconnect the battery charger? What engine model do you have?You may have an issue with the starter solenoid. The click you hear is the solenoid actuating. The solenoid is an electromechanical device that is attached to the side of your starter. Its round and smaller than the starter motor. When you engage the key switch, the solenoid pushes the starter gears out and they engage teeth in the flywheel. When the gear shaft extends, it closes a mechanical switch that provides power to the starter motor. Some starter solenoids have a second terminal that normally has power and disconnects when the key is engaged. This is supposed to disconnect you car air-conditioner but can be used to disable other stuff when starting the engine. If the solenoid fails to move the gear shaft far enough, the switch won’t close and the motor won’t start. You get similar behavior if the switch contacts are worn or dirty. You can usually nurse a bad solenoid by rapping the starter with a hammer when someone else turns the key. If the hammer trick doesn’t work, it probably isn’t the switch or solenoid. It could either be a weak battery or a bad connection from the battery to the starter motor. The terminals on these battery cables sometimes get corroded. Disconnect the wire on the starter and clean the terminal ends with sandpaper. A poor contact at the battery or a poor ground will cause the same problem. You can diagnose this kind of problem by attaching a voltmeter to the power lead on the starter. When you close the ignition key switch, the voltmeter should show between 9 and 10 volts. If it shows less than 9 volts, its a bad battery or connection. If it shows more than 10 volts, its likely a bad solenoid or starter. If the same reading taken on the battery posts shows over 9v, its the connections.
I recommend that you remove your starter and send it out to a starter shop to have it serviced. Starters are a service item and should be serviced every few years. I service mine every three or four years. Service costs less than $100. They are easy to remove. Disconnect the battery cable, key cable, and usually three mounting bolts. The starter will pull out. They are heavy. While the starter is out, clean the battery cables with sandpaper. There is a spray product that you can apply to battery terminals that protects them from corrosion. Wal-Mart sells the it in very small spray cans.
If it turns out to be your battery, you might add a dedicated starter battery. This is an automotive battery that just starts your engine and does nothing else. There are a number of ways to wire this up. Contact us if you want instructions. Deep cycle batteries aren’t designed for high-current applications such as starting your engine. A dedicated high-current starter battery will insure that you can always start your engine even if your house bank is depleted.
Regards
Rich
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