Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Bob,
Depending on how generous you are with each coat, you can roll on one coat with about 1 gal of paint. If you put it on thicker, you may need a little more. I usually plan on a little more because I paint my dinghy and usually put an extra coat up near the water line.Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
There’s probably a lot more antiboitics that get dumped into the ocean from treated sewerage than we’d ever think of adding ourselves; much of its just treated to a long ride through a short pipe.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
Epoxyproducts is not far from where I live. I’m headed there next week to pick up some epoxy to coat my brightwork. As I said earlier, I had planned to use their product to put on a barrier coat but I delayed the project when the recession hit. I’ll talk to him about adding a copper addidive. From what I’ve read, he’s not enthusiastic about it. I’ll see if I can get some more information from him.There’s a hardwood supply store about 10 miles from him, http://www.goosebaylumber.com/ . That’s where I get my teak. I’m planning to pick up a half-sheet of teak plywood to repair water damage around one of my portlights. I’ve previously purchased both teak and holly from them at pretty good prices.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I use fluorescent marker spray paint. I spray stripes every 20 feet. One yellow stripe at 20, 2 at 40 etc. When I get to 100, I add a red stripe and start over, etc… It lasts a summer.
Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
heck, if you’re repainting the engine, go with something lighter. A lighter color makes it easier to see fluid leaks and brightens up the engine room. I painted my old W60 caterpillar yellow.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
My sewing skills aren’t that good and I don’t want to spend a bunch of money right now on new covers. Most of the cost is labor, so saving the foam isn’t that big a deal. I’ve had rough quotes of about $35.00/sqft for replacements, that’s about $1600 for a new set.
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If it were I, I’d try the hole saw method. Assuming that you can find the right sizes, I think its doable but it would be tricky.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
This could start another religious discussion. I’ve found nothing that really works. I’ve considered painting it all brown. Like most folks, I’ve been using Cetol for the past couple of decades. It holds up reasonably well and applies and more importantly removes fairly easily, but it builds up in layers over a few years and peals much like varnish. It also darkens with age. This leaves the surface with a mottled look. This means that you have to remove it every couple of years and start over. A quick treatment with a 2-part teak cleaner such as snappy-teak-new followed by a buff with fine sandpaper seems to take it off. The teak cleaner can attack the caulking however so a quick rinse is recommended.
I don’t have enough time nor energy to keep my brightwork pristine. Those few boaters that I know that take this seriously take their brightwork down to bare wood each year and put on a few coats of cetol. The exact recepe varies but is usually two or three coats of regular cetol followed by one optional coat of cetol gloss. It can take a cruising couple a week or so to properly finish the brightwork on a boat like the 424. If I find myself among the unemployed this summer, I might get it done. Otherwise its another year with a 20 foot finish ( looks good from 20 feet away).
I’ve heard others claim that varnish is the lowest maintenance finish; once you get it completed, you just touch it up each year. One of my friends who owns a Vagabond claims this. He’s been working on getting that first complete finish on his boat now for the past 15 years.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
I just went down to Pep-Boys and bought a few cans of auto spray paint in a close color. They’re pretty small cans so I had to buy three or four of them. Its not an exact match, but its pretty close.Rich
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
Would you please send the link again? I’d like to order a few.Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I read an article a few years back that stated that the most challenging waters for bottom paints are northern latitudes during mid-summer (I assume that southern hemesphere would be similar). The reason is twofold; longer summer days provide more time for growth and colder waters provide more dissolved gasses like co2. That’s one reason the water here in the Northeast is murky in the summer. I’ve had reasonable success with Pettit ACP-50; also sold under the West Marine label.
I plan to take my hull down to bare glass as soon as the market stablizes and I feel comfortable burning another couple of boat units. In fact, I had an appointment to have the boat soda-blasted last fall, but I cancelled it and started hunkering down for the tsunami. Once cleaned, I plan to put on a layer of epoxy as a barrier coat. Then I’ll put on one coat of inexpensive ablative paint followed by two coats of ACP-50. The first coat will be a different color. I’m sure there are other paints out there that are as good or perhaps better. I had bad luck with micron-22 many years ago so I’m still avoiding their bottom paints, but I hear their newer paints are better.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
There’s an advantage to being able to remove the old hardware and replace the exact same part. The catch will screw to the same holes and fit snugly. Are you sure these are exactly the same as original?Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Ok, Ok, I’ll knock-off the religion. I got baited into it.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor
Please don’t take this as an attempt to start a religious argument. 30 years of weekends and vacations can add up to a lot of anchoring. Just because someone doesn’t favor dual-anchors doesn’t mean they’re a novice. The cruising ground here in the Northeast is typically tidal. If you set two anchors off the bow, you are likely to find that they wrap around each other and make it impossible to retrieve. The swivel jack you describe might mitigate the problem, but it sounds difficult to setup and it seems that the bitter-ends will still entagle. If you set one off the bow and one off the stern, this won’t happen. If there are other boats in the anchorage, you won’t swing the same way they do however, so you’ll likely get to know them well in the middle of the night. An advantage to the bow-stern anchor technique is that you can get better TV reception since the boat won’t be swinging around. If there is no roller on the stern, retrieval can take some planning. Also, she won’t lie to the wind. This can make the cockpit uncomfortable in a breeze.If you cruise in areas where there is much current, it is my humble opinion that you are better off with one good anchor than two weak ones. A few years ago I left my boat on anchor all summer on a single anchor, the Fortress FX-85 I keep as a storm anchor. When set in sand with all chain rhode, I sleep pretty well and had no worries if I left it alone for a week. It can be very difficult to retrieve, so I don’t use it unless there’s an emergency or I’m planning to stay put for a while. Even powering over it doesn’t pull it out without a lot of work. The shank doesn’t fit on my bow roller, so once up, I have to set a second anchor so that I can retrieve it. I wish it were easier to set. In an emergency, it would take me at least a half hour to set this up. There’s no way that it could be stored on deck. Its just too big.
We had a rendezvous on Long Island last summer. I wanted to set that anchor, but I just had minor surgery and couldn’t lift anything without causing problems. I should have asked for help and set it anyway because we had a fire drill when the boats all dragged.
I’ve always been suspicious of the two anchor theory. I’m familiar with the two anchors at about 60 degree techniqe. Again, it is my humble opinion that this is weak. As the boat hobby-horses in the wind, the entire load will take up on one anchor, then the other. There is only a short period of time where the load will take up on both. In a blow, I think that one will drag, then the other. There you are with two anchors dragging and no way to retrieve them; no thanks.
No matter what technique you use, its imprortant that you are comfortable with it. We all have different experiences and differing opinions. If in my opinion someone’s doing something stupid, its also important that they do so elsewhere. Otherwise, I won’t be comfortable. I’ve seen some pretty stupid anchoring schemes as I’m sure we all have.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Jack
You’re asking for a religious argument here. Its doubtful that two of us would ever agree on what might be the best anchor.Why do you want two anchors on your bow? I’m trying to visualize how I might set a second anchor without putting it in a dinghy and carting off to wherever I want it dropped. If I’m planning to use the dinghy, I might as well stow it in a lazarette and keep some of the weight off the bow. I keep an FX-85 in there for a storm anchor.
http://www.fortressanchors.com/fortress_anchor_guide.htmlI also have a danforth 22HT in there for a backup. I’ve been considering getting something that is good in weed, maybe a fisherman, but they are too big to handle.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum