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May 30, 2016 at 6:13 pm in reply to: Oil in raw water exhaust – blown trans oil cooler, right? #221102
unabated
ParticipantGood question. Not at boat and won’t be for another week.Pretty sure it’s part of the raw water loop. No sense cooling with 190 degree water.AlanMay 30, 2016 at 2:07 pm in reply to: Oil in raw water exhaust – blown trans oil cooler, right? #221095unabated
ParticipantScott,I have a W58. And the little cooler strapped to the top of the big cooler is the engine oil cooler. There should be 2 hoses that run on the stb. side of the engine to the oil filter.Probably a hole in it.Alan.unabated
ParticipantThe 2 shafts I’ve put in, have both been Aquamet 22. I thought that was pretty much standard. Original was bronze.AlanUnabated.unabated
ParticipantVery true about displacement hull… In calm water.Where you need a little more zip, is when motoring against a head wind or a very adverse current. Such as the cuts between the islands in the Bahamas.I found out what a difference 1 inch of pitch makes in prop. I thought going from a 13 to a 12 was great, so I went 1 more to an 11 inch pitch. Yikes did that suck. Had trouble motoring against 5 knot current Went back to a 12 inch. BTW it’s a W58.So…. A little reserve HP is nice.Depends on what kind of sailing you do.YMMVAlanUnabated 140unabated
ParticipantSo it’s been a few years now since we talked about v-drive cooling.
I am ready to by-pass it, straight from strainer to pump.
I haven’t heard any negatives yet from the folks who have done it so far. Is that pretty much the consensus.
Alan
Unabatedunabated
ParticipantGot itunabated
ParticipantOnly 299,000.00!!!unabated
ParticipantThis getting a little old!!!!!unabated
ParticipantDid I miss the joke??BTW I named my new puppy Pearson.unabated
ParticipantTrying to reset password but the system is not sending out an email for the request.AlanUnabatedSent from my iPhone
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This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by
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unabated
ParticipantAlthough I do keep my blond wig on board.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2014, at 8:50 PM, Ken Page wrote:
Alan I very recently did this job while on a mooring in Vero Beach. I just
lifted the engine, built a cradle under it and rolled it forward jammed
into the cabin doorway. My wife and I had plenty of room to take out the
tank and lift it through the companionway. Just a little scratch on the
trim. You can see the whole job here on my blog starting from here…
http://pagetwo88.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-four-hour-job5-days-later.htmlThe very bottom of the tank was rotten and I was lucky it hadn’t creeped
up the side panels. I cut a 1/2″ off the very bottom losing maybe less than
a gallon and had a local shop weld a new bottom on. After a very thorough
cleaning (see blog pics) and the new bottom, I’m calling it a new tank.Ken
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Alan,
From what I understand, the tank comes out forward after removing the
planking that holds it in place behind the engine. It should be relatively
simple.Bob
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 5:54 PM, Alan wrote:
One of the reasons I chose this particular 424 hull back in 2003 when I
purchased the boat, was it had a new fuel tank, of which I was able to
verify by the Florida Tank Sales sticker on the tank. noting that it was
installed in 2000.
Here it is 2014 and I believe I have a fuel tank leak.
I’ve looked at all the surfaces that are visible as that tank is
installed, which leaves just the top half all the way around. thefittings
are not leaking. I was able to determine over the weekend that it leaks a
teaspoon per hour. A teaspoon per hour works out to be just about ahalf a
cup per 24 hours. Not sure if it’s rotted from the inside or chafed
through from the outside.
I have a cookie sheet underneath the tank to collect the oil to keep it
out of the bilge, along with absorbent towels so it’s manageable rightnow.
So it looks like I’ll have to pull the engine which doesn’t scare me. I
had it out a couple years ago on my trip down south. Last time it tookfour
hours of my time and 30 minutes of yard time to lift the engine out.
What scares me now is how the heck do I get that tank out. as inwrestling
that thing out with the intention of putting the tank back in, as in not
destroying it on the way out.
Comments?
Repowering at this time is not a discussion. at Kodak we used to call
that “scope creep”Alan
Sent from my iPhone
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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ParticipantVery cool.
very encouraging. thank you very much. maybe I’ll attempt this while in my slip. I’ve done crazier things. slip, I meant in the slip at the marina not wearing my slip. I just reserve that for Saturday nights. I’ll just wear shorts for this occasion.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2014, at 8:50 PM, Ken Page wrote:
Alan I very recently did this job while on a mooring in Vero Beach. I just
lifted the engine, built a cradle under it and rolled it forward jammed
into the cabin doorway. My wife and I had plenty of room to take out the
tank and lift it through the companionway. Just a little scratch on the
trim. You can see the whole job here on my blog starting from here…
http://pagetwo88.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-four-hour-job5-days-later.htmlThe very bottom of the tank was rotten and I was lucky it hadn’t creeped
up the side panels. I cut a 1/2″ off the very bottom losing maybe less than
a gallon and had a local shop weld a new bottom on. After a very thorough
cleaning (see blog pics) and the new bottom, I’m calling it a new tank.Ken
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Alan,
From what I understand, the tank comes out forward after removing the
planking that holds it in place behind the engine. It should be relatively
simple.Bob
On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 5:54 PM, Alan wrote:
One of the reasons I chose this particular 424 hull back in 2003 when I
purchased the boat, was it had a new fuel tank, of which I was able to
verify by the Florida Tank Sales sticker on the tank. noting that it was
installed in 2000.
Here it is 2014 and I believe I have a fuel tank leak.
I’ve looked at all the surfaces that are visible as that tank is
installed, which leaves just the top half all the way around. thefittings
are not leaking. I was able to determine over the weekend that it leaks a
teaspoon per hour. A teaspoon per hour works out to be just about ahalf a
cup per 24 hours. Not sure if it’s rotted from the inside or chafed
through from the outside.
I have a cookie sheet underneath the tank to collect the oil to keep it
out of the bilge, along with absorbent towels so it’s manageable rightnow.
So it looks like I’ll have to pull the engine which doesn’t scare me. I
had it out a couple years ago on my trip down south. Last time it tookfour
hours of my time and 30 minutes of yard time to lift the engine out.
What scares me now is how the heck do I get that tank out. as inwrestling
that thing out with the intention of putting the tank back in, as in not
destroying it on the way out.
Comments?
Repowering at this time is not a discussion. at Kodak we used to call
that “scope creep”Alan
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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unabated
ParticipantSomehow I missed the web link for those lights. Bob could you resend that please.
Alan
Sent from my iPhoneOn May 27, 2014, at 9:23 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
I just put these lights up, and they draw 1/2 of the old festoon lights
power with the obvious result. These lights as marine lights: $109. The
exact same lights with the exact same specs on Amazon, $20. Difference?
These are black for off road/rv use. Yacht ones are white. Do I care?
Not much.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Participant5.5 days to Bermuda from Norfolk. Ketch rig, jib and mizzen. Only used the main for a little while. Winds 25 to mid 30’s.
Very comfy ride.
Ketches rule.Alan
Sent from my iPhoneQuote:On May 25, 2014, at 8:50 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:Jason,
Everything pertaining to boats is a trade-off,
including the rig. You may be about equally happy with
whichever P424 configuration you get. However, if you
do buy a ketch you will surely benefit by learning when
and how to use a mizzen sail. This article may be
helpful: http://www.tor.cc/articles/mizzen.htm .I have a 424 ketch with davits, a windvane and a
staysail. It works. However, I swapped the original
Westerbeke for a new Yanmar right away and am very glad
I did. It can be a challenge finding parts for those
old Westerbekes, and at their age they often need
replacement parts. Besides, diesel mechanics is neither
my forte or my passion.Good luck,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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unabated
ParticipantSinglehander here too. Been up the mast using steps a lot. In calm waters using autopilot. A blast. Esp to take pictures.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 22, 2014, at 10:32 AM, “cstewart” wrote:
Tor. Since I think of you as a singlehander, I am wondering how you do that mast/ bridge thing.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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