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ParticipantI just bought spare W58 engine parts from a 422 owner….. nice boats….
alan— On Tue, 10/21/08, <> wrote:
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ParticipantI just had a new dodger and bimini put on. Complete enclosure with screens and windows all around. 4K
alan— On Fri, 10/17/08, Philippe Fontaine <> wrote:
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ParticipantEven with mast steps, which I have, servicing the generator when standing on the very top step and reaching 3 feet higher, is a religious experience for sure.
Sure is out of the way of the mizzen staysail though.
alan— On Tue, 10/14/08, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
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ParticipantThats why I put my Wind Generator 3 feet above the mizzen. B____tch for maintenance, but it’s out of the way.
alan— On Tue, 10/14/08, Thatcher Stone <> wrote:
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ParticipantI have my solent stay almost completed. Just need the sail.
Do you have the dimensions of that sail?
Where do you have the lead blocks for sheeting?
How far up the mast is the jib hound?
Pictures?
Thanks
Alan— On Fri, 10/10/08, norris larson <> wrote:
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ParticipantI understand and agree about the inner fore stay. I have a solent stay on my boat. The question at hand is, given the option of a SJ to put on the furler, do you go with sail make one – luff tape the full height of the furler, or Sail maker two, luff tape just the length of the sail. I’ve never heard of or seen a set up where the tape is longer than the sail. Is this guy blowing smoke or what.
alan— On Wed, 10/8/08, Robert Fine <> wrote:
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ParticipantYikes that a big pump….. which one are you looking at? How are you going to power something like that?
alan— On Mon, 10/6/08, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
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ParticipantVery cool! Nice to have the sizes of the parts, even though we can’t buy them anymore from Pearson ( esp. at those prices).
alan— On Wed, 10/1/08, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
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ParticipantI have 100 amp alternator from “The Battery Shack” in Marathon Fla.
I use a 3 Stage EXTERNAL regulator. I have a 450 amp House bank and it will charge 80 amps at 2200 RPM with the W58.
Alan— On Fri, 9/26/08, Seawater <> wrote:
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ParticipantI have both CQR and Bruce on the bow. The boat came with 275 feet of 3/8 BBB chain. I have since replaced it with 300 feet of 5/16 HT. Lighter but stronger. I did that when I install the electric windlass. I saw the old thing coming fast.
alan— On Wed, 9/24/08, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:
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ParticipantI have the W58 with a 20 inch blade. The pitch was 13 I made it an 11. It was doing black smoke at 2500 now I can get the engine up to around 2800 WOT before the smoke starts.
alan— On Fri, 9/19/08, Rodd Leeds wrote:
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ParticipantThanks folks,
I was going to order 5/16 “green strip” USCG approved fuel hose, but it doesn’t seem to be around. So, I’ll order the 1/4″ stuff instead.
This is not a project to cheap out on….. just wanted to make sure the volume of the 1/4″ was going to adequate.
alan— On Wed, 9/17/08, Robert Fine <> wrote:
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ParticipantI am redoing my fuel system to add a fuel pump and a second racor filter.
I have the W58. Do you think 1/4″ line is ok or should I use 5/16?
Any experience out there?
alan
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ParticipantWith the davits, where are you planning on mounting
the paddle?
alan
— Silver Heels <> wrote:Quote:Yes, I think you’re probably right about that, Alan.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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ParticipantThat brings up a good question and not to steal the
thread but. I don’t find the mizzen very useful when
close hauled. I use it mostly for off wind sailing. Do
you think that would help the vane to not be
distracted?
alan— Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Tor,
To add fuel to the fire, I have both a short and
tall vane for the monitor.
In light wind, the tall one is used and of course
interferes with the mizzen
on a tack or gybe. I’m sure I’ll break at least one
of them. The short one
for winds over about 15 knots doesn’t interfere at
all.The bigger problem for all windvane steering systems
is that on very close
reaches and close hauled courses the spilling wind
from the main on sloops
and mizzen on ketches or yawls give the windvane
false directions. It
causes the whole system to hunt at best and not be
able to steer at worse.This is especially true where the boom ends just
short of the windvane’s
vane (paddle).Now that my stern pulpit (pushpit?) is reinforced,
I’m rarin’ ta try my
monitor.I also have a simple Simrad tiller pilot that runs
the vane with little
power draw.I’m not crazy about the lines in the cockpit, but
they are arranged to pass
in the aft starboard corner to a double block
directly below the wheel.Since I normally spend a large amount of time
tripping, I don’t see the
addition of one more line set as a huge downside.
Those less clumsy might
not feel that way.Bob
Pelican #8On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 2:39 PM, Silver Heels
<> wrote:Pat,
I won’t know until later how much my new
bimini/dodger actually effect a
windvane when sailing hard on the wind. They may
not. On my last boat it was
not an issue. Anyway, I’m not worried about it
because our Pearson
424’s (and most other decently designed sailboats)
will self-steer to
windward in most conditions with nothing more than
reasonably good sail
trim. On all other tacks, the cockpit canvas won’t
interfere.
Maybe switching to a taller vane will be an
answer, at least in light airs
when the boat might not stay balanced to windward
on her own. As you say, if
the mizzen did come across it would only deflect
the paddle for a few
seconds. I tend to use windvane steering on long
tacks anyway.
Quote:Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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