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David,
I am a bit confused about applying a sealant to the inside of the hull..
It seems to me that a sealant is used to keep water and moisture from penetrating or leaking thru the hull or in a basement wall..
That is very different from using insulation to block the transmission of heat or cold thru the hull to keep the boat cool in summer or warm in winter..
If the issue is condensation then the insulation needs to be thicker or more efficient thereby keeping the dew point out of the interior of the boat..
Did I misunderstand the use of the sealant?
John
S/V MelaJohn
S/V MelaFigie,
If you do get the specification on those sheaves please send along a copy..
I would like to change out my wire to rope halyards to all rope and would need to change out the sheaves when doing that..
Thanks..
John
S/V MelaJohn
S/V MelaDan,
I just put SR on mine last Nov …
It took just a little over 3 1/2 gal. for two solid coats…
Thought I could do it with 3 and had to go back and buy another gallon..
I then foolishly left it out of the water for months and now I have to paint it again..
With SR you only have 60 days or less to launch.. (putting on soft paint this time..)
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaDavid,
For what it is worth..
I did a CAL 39 I had a few years ago with all new Marlon fittings and valves above and below the water line…. Worked out great with no issues or failures.. (or bonding issues)
Just did my Mela with all new TruDesign fittings and valves.. (same fiber based composite material)..
Walk thru the boat yard and look at the plastic thru hulls… plastic becomes brittle..
Good luck..
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaBryan,
We have a very good history of actions and projects that have been posted on the site.
But It might be nice to have a separate dedicated page to go to when looking for a vendor, part, or diagram source that a member recommends or has found rather than searching thru numerous pages of posts..
Just a thought….
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaRich,
If you find a source for the stickers please let me know as I would like a couple of them too.. Will have to redo my traveler soon and fresh stickers would be super… Also, if anyone knows of a place to find a new/replacment Pearson ID plate I would like to know as well..
Thanks
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaPaul,
Sorry just saw your post…
Have you tried something to loosen it like PB Blaster and left it for a while to soak into the screw first then use a impact drill?
JohnJohn
S/V MelaRock,
I agree with Bryan. Testing the injectors will tell you if you are getting fuel to the cylinders.. If you suspect that the ejectors or the pump are not working properly there are places that will test, clean, and/or repair them at well below replacement cost..
I would also recommend you do a compression test on each cylinder when you take out the injectors for testing.. Its easy enough to do and a tester only cost about 25.00 and would tell you the condition of the engine and see if the water and rust caused any unknown damage to your cylinders.. (you can have fuel and air but without enough compression the engine will not fire or be hard to start)..
JohnJohn
S/V MelaRich & Sherry,
We are based out of Cape Charles Vs. but the boat is wintering in Cambridge Md.
Can you put us on the notification list.. we would love to hook up if the timing is right..
Might be a lot of fun..
Thanks..
John & June Dunphy
Mela
1980 Pearson 424 #99John
S/V MelaJust a quick comment… you can easily grease your Maxi Prop..
Remove a couple alan head set screws located on the prop hub.
Screw in a grease fitting (zert) and add grease using a grease gun until you see grease coming out.
Then remove the Zert and replacer the set screw..
Easy to do..
John
MS/V MelaJohn
S/V MelaStan,
Unabated is right to ask if “Excessive heat at idle is not good. Under load?”..
I would do this before investigating any propeller issues if you experience engine overheating at idle or low engine speeds..
First.. I would suggest looking at your raw water input strainer (if it is clear you should see water flowing thru there nicely with engine running) or lines to make sure they are not restricted or blocked..
Second… I would check your water pump impeller for wear or broken arms/ribs..
Third.. I would check the input to the heat exchanger to see if it may be clogged with old broken water pump impeller bits..
Hope this helps..
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaBryan,
Thanks… I sent a reply to your e mail.. needed 2 small corrections..
Welcome aboard… thanks for your work on this site..
JohnJohn
S/V MelaIndulgence..John
I am not near my boat but found 2 web site specifications listings you might try for the 424.
#1
http://sailboatrigdimensions.com/
Enter: Pearson ..and it will pull up the rig specifications for all of the Pearson Models.
And…..
#2
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat?filter%5Bname%5D=pearson+424&paginate=25&filter%5Blonger_than%5D=&filter%5Bshorter_than%5D=&filter%5Bhull_type%5D=&units=imperial&filter%5Bnewer_than%5D=&filter%5Bolder_than%5D=&filter%5Bdesigner_name%5D=&filter%5Bbuilder_name%5D=&sort=nameThis link will pull up the rig specifications for the 424 and you chose between ketch and cutter…
Just copy and paste the links into your browser…
Hope this helps
JohnJohn
S/V Mela
