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Check the growth on the bottom of the boat. You might have a clogged
thru-hull. I had that problem recently.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Fri, May 11, 2012 at 12:45 PM, wrote:
Quote:Rodd,
I assume all was well last fall. You might have a clogged intake through-hull. Critters can grow in there. Pull the hose from the V-drive to the engine off. Water should run into your bilge. If not, open the strainer and check for flow there. If you have water flow from the V-drive, you may have a bad impeller, a rusted injection elbow, or a broken pump vane caught in a hose.Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Second Wave in Seattle:
http://www.secondwave.cc/Products/Galley_Cabin/galley_cabin.htmlMight also try calling San Diego Marine Exchang
http://www.downwindmarine.com/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Fri, May 11, 2012 at 8:19 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I don’t remember where you are just now, but check out Sailorman in Ft.
Lauderdale or the place in St. Augustine. Also, there is a marine
consignment shop in WA which I’ve used and one in Newport, RI I’ve been
to. That’s probably the best source for stoves.Bob
On Fri, May 11, 2012 at 9:11 AM, Silverheels wrote:
My original HilleRange galley stove has been dying a slow death this
winter. First the oven’s burner feed tube started leaking propane, then
the door wouldn’t close properly. The aft stove top burner never did
work and now one of the others has started burning a sooty yellow
instead of blue. So I’m down to a very large single-burner stove. I
really don’t want to spring for a new one right now, but I do need one
in decent condition that works. Anyone have an extra stove taking up
space in the garage, maybe left over after your wife made you put in a
new one? I don’t care what brand, 2-burner or 3, but it has to be 21″
wide.Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Make sure you measurements are the same as Doyle’s internal measurements. My Doyle made sails (which were supposed to be to customs specs) were Off, and had to be recut. Not that big a deal, but annoying when I was 1 month from leaving.
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On May 9, 2012, at 10:23, wrote:
I received the following initial quote from Doyle, my local sailmaker. I’ll be modifying the request to change to a 155% genoa, to add a Dutchman system and Tides Track mainsail track system. Other small things such as sail number and draft stripes will also impact price. The quote was made for a heavy weight headsail. The 424 is stiff so I’m likely to fly it in heavy air.
I plan to place my order this September. The price below doesn’t include the 15% offseason discount which I expect to take advantage of. I’m expecting a final price of about $7500 for main and headsail.
I prefer a domestic manufacturer. Since I race the boat, I’m not willing to go for a cheap import. If anyone else has a quote from a domestic manufacturer I’d be interested in comparing price.
I don’t know what I’ll do with the used sails. Both are in decent shape. Worn and somewhat baggy but perfectly usable. If I don’t keep them as spares, I may sell them. They would fit the tall ketch.
Sail Quotation for: Pearson 424 SLP 1-204
Prepared for: Richard Carter
By: Chris Howes
I= 47.25 P= 41.00
J= 15.75 E= 14.50
Ii= 47.25
Ji= 15.75
Fabric Area (Sq Ft) Price
Main
Mainsail 8.62oz Dacron 353sqft $3,038
Includes: 5 Full Battens, 1 Reef,
Slides, Moderate Girth, Bag
Genoa LP%
RF Genoa 135% 7.77oz Dacron 474sqft $3,305
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!That was me, if you can’t find your opt let me know and I’ll dig up mine.
-p
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On May 4, 2012, at 16:50, “sumocean” wrote:
Tor
Someone had done research I believe last year and had assembled a spread sheet with several different lofts as options. I have it saved on my home computer and will send it when I can get away from work.
Linus
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We filter ALL of the water that comes out of the tanks. We used an American plumber filter body, available at home depot, inline after the fresh water pump. We have a smaller one for the foot pump. We never use the foot pump though.
-p
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On Apr 8, 2012, at 18:59, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:That’s what I use, too – after the generic pre-filter.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!There is a catamaran from WA in the marina in La cruz called Four Play. I could get their number for you. 😉
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On Mar 26, 2012, at 16:22, Alan wrote:
Hey Tor…… your pretty good, nice play on words….
In Rock Sound… heading your way this weekend.
Every been to Governors Harbour on Eluthera?
a— On Mon, 3/26/12, Silverheels wrote:
on= _pearson424.org
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!That might happen if this surfing thing we’re trying sticks. 😉
-p
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On Mar 26, 2012, at 15:26, “kalinowski” wrote:
Perhaps you should all head west. There are only 2 424’s in Hawai’i; the one in a landfill on Maui and mine. There is a 422 here somewhere.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!HA!
Yeah, I am always on pins and needles with our W58. I bought a
generator just to limit the hours we put on the engine. Not to mention
it is soo much quieter. Highly recommend the Honda EU20i or EU2000i.I keep seeing all these P424’s getting together on the East Coast,
maybe we should head that way some time!
There is one other P424 Scott Gesdahl on Sojourn is in La Paz still I
think. Hopefully we’ll see him when we head back into the sea.-patrick
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Sun, Mar 25, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Quote:Happy Sailing Patrick. We will catch up with you on the west coast after I live through a re-power. Our old 58 blew her head gasket.
Oh well, guess that’s why we named her Running Tab.
-BillSent from my iPhone
On Mar 25, 2012, at 5:30 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:unless your in a zoo….. when you hear hoofs…. think horses…. not zebras— On Sun, 3/25/12, Navasana wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!This morning I used a brush on the raw water intake, which had some
weedy looking growth on it. We then took a 3 hour motor up to Punta de
Mita. No smoke. Strong exhaust water flow. Very happy people onboard!!Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Should have started with the
easy stuff. Now I have some of my ongoing maintenance items I guess
that is a good thing too!-Patrick
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On Mar 25, 2012, at 14:10, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Patrick, get it fixed?
Chuck
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Well, I just finished pulling the impeller. It looked fine but I
replaced it anyway hoping to not have to do it summer. Tomorrow I’m
going to put on a new raw water and alternator belt then we’ll fire it
up again.My guess is one or all of these things fixed (or masked) what ever it
was… which is fine with me. 🙂Thanks again for all the help!
-=PatrickOn 3/22/12, quent wrote:
Hi Patrick-
Another thing you might try is to take the cap off the coolant overflow tank
then start up the engine and look for bubbles in the coolant. The white
smoke is probably water or coolant leaking into the exhaust. If the white
amoke stops, then engine pressure is holding it back. If exhaust gas is
getting into the coolant (bubbles) you might have a head gasket problem.See if you can get your hands on one of those IR thermometers that look a
little like a gun and read the temperature of whatever you point at. Take
the temperature at various spots on your engine, especially around the
thermostat housing and exhaust manifold. Could be a gummed up thermostat or
circulation pump.No water in the oil is a very good sign.
Quent
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!This originally wasn’t a temperature problem it was a white smoke
issue even 45 minutes after starting the engine in 70F temperatures.
After going around for 20 minutes to put out fenders, etc., at about
1000RPM I picked it back up to 1400 and the engine temp went up over
180F and it NEVER does that.I topped up the coolant in the port side expansion tank, bled the
system (it had no air) and ran the engine in gear at the dock up to
about 1200RPMs which was all I was willing to try at the dock. I still
thought the water was a little anemic so I’m going to check the raw
water pump after the engine cools down again, but the white smoke was
gone. We’ll give this another run in the morning and see what happens
since that was our original scenario. Of course we also hadn’t had the
engine on for probably 2 weeks as well, but I can’t wait that long…Anyway, the dock time is letting us also do a washdown, top up the
batteries and do an equalization and tonight I’m going to clean the
carb in the outboard which I think is stuck open… Ain’t cruising
fun! 😉Thanks a lot everyone and I’ll keep you posted.
-PatrickOn 3/22/12, kalinowski wrote:
Aloha Patrick: I went through all of the overheating headache last year.
What drove me crazy was the erratic nature of the problem. I completely
rebuilt the fresh and raw cooling systems (new pumps, impeller, belts,
gauge, sensor, cleaned heat exchanger, new hoses, etc.). I finally pulled
the thermostat out and ran the engine without it to try to isolate the
problem. This worked. I believe Jamestown Distributors sent me the wrong
thermostat. Moral: erratic temps could be caused by the thermostat. It’s
easy to check.Bon Chance
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!all good stuff.. thanks everyone, very helpful!
I pulled the starboard side of the heat exchanger, cleaned out the
inevitable zinc gunk, no impeller blades (good!), ran the same rod
through the heat exchanger tubes (gently!) that the broker did last
time… 😉 Seemed clear. Pulled the port side and there was a small
piece of weed in there, no zinc gunk.Good call on the air bubble idea, I will bleed the coolant system again too!
While I’m doing this Dawn is cleaning the outside of the boat. I think
I have the easier job for sure! She’s the best!-p
On 3/22/12, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Patrick,
More free advice.
I think if there was air in the coolant lines that would cause an overheat
at idle and out of gear. At least that was the result when I got air in
the lines of my W60. I had a similar problem to what you describe with my
W60 in the first year I owned Sarah. Cleaning the heat exchanger fixed the
problem, but since you did that only a few years ago, maybe that’s not the
problem. The problem does appear to be one of not being able move enough
heat out of the engine at other than low RPMS, so the exchanger certainly
would be the first thing I would check after sea water flow. Then maybe
the fresh water pump. If you lost a blade or a portion of one it also
might reduce the heat flow out of the engine.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 3:51 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Did you open the coolant cap BEFORE all this over heating happened (when
you split the fluid out) ? If so, you might just have a bubble in the
system. Because of the tilt in the engine, on the W58, you can get a small
bubble of air on the aft end of the coolant tank. This will cause it to
over heat.
“when you hear hoofs, think horses, not zebras”
alan— On Thu, 3/22/12, Peaboy Walters wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!The history of the heat exchange is somewhat storied. When I took the
boat on the first test sale, 4+ years ago we overheated. They had the
heat Exchanger boiled and tested and it ran great ever since then.We had our normal amount of water in the exhaust. But I did check the
strainer today as well and we had some weeds in there, but not much.I’m rooting for me too. 😉
-p
On 3/22/12, Pete Dubler wrote:
That was going to be my first question as well….
What is the history on the heat exchangers?
How is the water flow (check strainer and actual output from exhaust)?
When engine is cold. Check coolant level.
Good luck. We are all rooting for you.
Pete
On 3/22/2012 1:23 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Patrick,
What does the oil in the crankcase look like?
BillSent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2012, at 11:45 AM, Peaboy Walters
wrote:< Apologies for any dupes I think this failed to go out last time I hit
send>Today we were going to take a short trip up to Punta de Mita to do
some surfing, but with steady white smoke we decided to instead to
head in to the Marina here in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.As we were motoring back slowly we ran at idle for a while and when I
revved the engine back up we started to go above our rock-steady 180F
engine temp we’re used to. Throttling back lowered the engine temp and
we made it into out slip.We’ve had no really trouble with out W58 to date, so I guess we’re
due. I suspect a coolant issue as we have some coolant in the small
catch before the bilge. I did, stupidly, open the engine cap a week
ago and spilled some coolant, but this looks to be more than that and
is has a bit of oil on the edges of the accumulated coolant. Our
engine pan is coated with oil though, despite how well I cleaned it
last time. so it no guarantee that mix happened inside or outside the
engine….Anyway, I’m waiting for the engine to cool down, then I’m going to
pull out my Nigel Calder books and Google and start looking over
things. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears.I’ll update as a I learn more as I assume the other W58s out there are
interested in following along….Thanks,
-Patrick—
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!The dip stick looks fine, but I was thinking I might start with
changing the oil to get more information about the oil.Just cracking open the Nigel Book now that the engine has cooled off.
-pOn 3/22/12, Bill Emberley wrote:
Patrick,
What does the oil in the crankcase look like?
BillSent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2012, at 11:45 AM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
< Apologies for any dupes I think this failed to go out last time I hit
send>Today we were going to take a short trip up to Punta de Mita to do
some surfing, but with steady white smoke we decided to instead to
head in to the Marina here in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.As we were motoring back slowly we ran at idle for a while and when I
revved the engine back up we started to go above our rock-steady 180F
engine temp we’re used to. Throttling back lowered the engine temp and
we made it into out slip.We’ve had no really trouble with out W58 to date, so I guess we’re
due. I suspect a coolant issue as we have some coolant in the small
catch before the bilge. I did, stupidly, open the engine cap a week
ago and spilled some coolant, but this looks to be more than that and
is has a bit of oil on the edges of the accumulated coolant. Our
engine pan is coated with oil though, despite how well I cleaned it
last time. so it no guarantee that mix happened inside or outside the
engine….Anyway, I’m waiting for the engine to cool down, then I’m going to
pull out my Nigel Calder books and Google and start looking over
things. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears.I’ll update as a I learn more as I assume the other W58s out there are
interested in following along….Thanks,
-Patrick—
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I had the kind of bubbling you mention as well. When I remounted my hardware, I put 3M 20mil Scotchrap All-Weather Corrosion Protection Tape on the back of every thing I bolted on. So far it’s been great.
-P
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On Feb 27, 2012, at 14:47, Robert Fine wrote:
They’re made of aluminum. Zinc chromate is the primer of choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 27, 2012 3:34 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:I don’t want to pull the sticks right now. My more immediate problem is
some paint bubbling around the winches on the mizzen. I assume I’ll have
to sand down to bare metal, apply some type of primer and then top coat.
What metal are the masts made of? Primer suggestions?Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
