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Empty and disconnected. Left a hose on the output side so if needed I
could hook it back up. Hasn’t been needed.-p
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On Nov 1, 2012, at 9:55, Paul Audi wrote:
Quote:Hi P,Did you put anything inside the V-drive, or is it actually just empty and disconnected?
Thanks,
Paul
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I am also running without water in my v-drive. I unhooked it in Seattle. I
made it down the West Coast, to La Paz and over to Puerto Vallarta and its
been going fine.-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Nov 1, 2012 at 5:14 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Much less than 140. Scalding temp is 120-130, so its less. I think the
drives do well with no water, although mfgr suggests it not the case.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 31, 2012 10:54 PM, “Seawater” wrote:My v drive has no cooling whatsoever and runs warm to the touch but not
hot enough for you to want to take your hand away, so I would guess 140.I
have a temp sensor on it that would sound an alarm at 210, and it has
never
gone off. I will try to remember to take a temp reading with the IR
thermometer sometime when I run her for a while.I have motored all through the Caribbean heat and had to motor all the
way
back from Maine this summer without any issues at all.
Walter
SV Madness
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You may have this and I only say that because I didn’t know it till the
guys on the list taught me.The petcocks look like thin pieces of metal with a pressed end. They don’t
look like much at all to be honest and I had no idea what they were till
something similar came up on the list.
They vent air (or whatever the fluid is there).-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 4:55 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Even better! I wish I had that.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2012 4:54 PM, “quent” wrote:Our W-58 has a petcock on the side of the upper t-stat housing to vent
air. Absent that, you might try loosening the clamp on the “L” shapedhose
between t-stst housing and exhaust manifold. We also have an overflow
tank
in the port cockpit locker that is teed off the hoses to the hot water
heater.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We used butyl around the chain plate then put sikaflex on top of that
to bed the cover plate. Has worked like a charm!-p
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On Oct 1, 2012, at 9:27 AM, “”
wrote:Quote:Dan
Its pretty simple. I pull my mast each winter and will be pulling it again today. I remove the cotter pings or rings in the turnbuckles. Then put a wrench in the shroud to keep it from turning and a large screwdriver on the turnbuckle. As I recall, counter-clockwise loosens the shroud. The mast will sit fine with either the uppers or lowers disconnected, but not both. You will of course have to retune your rigging.I use RV roof sealant for the shrouds. I get about 5 years before it starts to leak. This stuff stays flexible and therefore doesn’t crack when the rigging moves. I put a bead under the shroud plates and build up a layer on the top against the chain-plate, smoothing it out for appearance.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/proflex-rv-flexible-sealant/3245
Regards
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have some blog posts on the removing, refinishing and rebedding the
stantions. We had our rig down while we did it, but as Quent says you can
totally take out one or two at a time and do it that way.http://deepplaya.com/category/systems-rigging/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/systemsrigging/-patrick
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W7PEAOn Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 4:27 PM, quent wrote:
Hi Dan-
If you have a relatively calm spot, you should be ok as long as you don’t
remove too many shrouds at once. Leave the uppers in place when you do the
lowers, and vice versa. The fore and back stays should be backed up by
halyards when you undo them, obviously one at a time.
More important, I suggest that you actually remove and inspect the
chainplates, especially if you remove the cabinetry boxes around them and
see some staining or rust. Stainless steel does not last forever in salty,
tropical conditions.
I wrote a few articles on this stuff a few years ago. If you go to Ocean
Navigator magazine website and search Kinderman they should be there.
Regards,
Quent
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Lots of pics of us pulling our engine
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/systemsengine/
Detaching the shaft coupling was and easy.
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On Sep 30, 2012, at 9:16 AM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Well, my 1995 Westerbeke 71hp engine appears to have a rusted oil pan and
is leaking oil.I am preparing to pull the engine to replace it-back ordered
until Oct 14th[bummer].
One mechanic suggested it may be possible to unbolt the engine and just
lift the transmission side of the engine to get access to the pan.Anyone
ever try this?
What is the best way to pull the engine? Thanks for suggestions.Any
precautions ?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!More questions….
How old are you batteries?
Did you check the water level in the batteries?
When were the batteries last equalized?If you do not now own these books, I highly recommend them.
Nigel Calder: Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual
http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Essential/dp/0071432388/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348882113&sr=8-1&keywords=nigel+calder%27s+boat+owners+mechanical+and+electrical+manualDon Casey: Sailboat Electrics Simplified
http://www.amazon.com/Sailboat-Electrics-Simplified-Don-Casey/dp/0070366497/ref=la_B001IGOSIK_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1348882191&sr=1-3-p
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W7PEAOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Hello everyone,
The problems that I’m having are on the DC side of things. When running
the engine all day, the house bank only gets up toabout 13.3 V, Then when
I sut it down it drops to 12.9 and lower quite fast, in an hour or two.
This happens when there is basicaly nothing on. The same thing happens
after being hooked up to shore-side power or a generator.
The starter battery is no problem @ 14.5 V.
I had both alternators rebuilt in May, the house bank is charged by a
Balmar 100 amp. and the start battery is charged by a 40 amp boshe. I put
a new voltage regulator in for the Balmar in August. The start battery was
new in April, the windlas/bow thruster battery new in June and the house
bank new in August.
In May I had a guy do some work on the boat and one of the thinggs he put
in was a BEP Marine DC/AC meter and it tells you the charging rate as well
the discharging rate and it shows something is drawing a lot of amps, and
this is with everything shut off.
I don’t know where or how to look for the problem.Bill I will give you a call tomorrow morning. I’m in Jackson’s Creek right
in front of the marina.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Jack,
Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of items?
I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great ideas
for tracking them down and dealing with them.Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…
Bob
On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little
while
and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed
back
in
May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it. My
electrical skills are very basic.
Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolkarea
that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as we
are
en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today
and
Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so please bare
with me on replies.Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Going to second the rebuild. They are very serviceable.
-p
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W7PEAOn Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 12:55 PM, wrote:
Quote:Walter,
I had the same unit on my old W60. I brought it to a local shop and had
them service it. This place rebuilds alternators and starters. He said it
was a generic truck alternator and not a particularly good one. Here’s his
contact information. You might find a similar shop in your local area.Deco
(603) 882-8186
278 Derry Rd, Litchfield, NH 03052I eventually had him replace the old unit with a better truck alternator.
He matched the mounting geometry so that I could swap-in the new unit. As
I recall, he had to drill-out the mounting hole from 3/8″ to 7/16″ to fit
but otherwise the replacement dropped in. I think I paid under $200 for
the replacement. Though he could probably fix your broken alternator, you
might consider calling him and asking for a similar replacement and put
your working alternator in the spares box. The only thing that you might
want to consider is the size of the replacement you pick. The replacement
he made for me is much larger than the motorola unit. This means that its
hard on the belts. If my batteries are low, it can blow a fuse in the
regulator because the alternator can pull more field current than my
regulator can handle. You might want to stick to something in the 120A
size.Regards
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I gotta post for that!
http://deepplaya.com/engine-sound-proofing/
-p
Sent from my Land Yacht
On Sep 21, 2012, at 2:12 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
I just removed the sound proofing insulation with vinyl/foam between 2
layers of fire retardant shiney outer layers.I guess with age the foam has
deteriorated and now scatters all over the engine compartment -little black
flakes.
Is there anything out there that is better for a replacement.Is the sound
proofing really that effective- would appreciate some thoughts and comments.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Didn’t end up looking for any boats, my parents don’t get around like they
used to. Anyway, New Bern and Beaufort were very nice little towns. The NC
State Maritime Museum in Beaufort is a must see if you’rein the area. They
have actual artifacts from Blackbeard’s Ship!Fair Winds,
-p
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W7PEAOn Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 2:55 PM, calicojack wrote:
Hi Pat:
My 424 “MOJO” is in Oriental, The boat was formerly “ICON”. I bought it in
St Simons,Ga. I sold four 424s from 2008 to 2010.I was the broker for
“Mikey Likes It”. I sold it to past member Mike Bogie and then sold it for
Mike to a buyer from Pa. I don’t know what the name was changed to. I run
the brokerage at Deaton Yachts, we currently have the 424 HiFlyte in the
yard (not for sale) being worked on. There was a 424 docked at the former
Sheraton marina in New Bern, I don’t know if it’s still there. I’m out of
town for 5 days or I would be glad to get you onboard Mojo, maybe next time.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Make that three…
Mikie Likes It183Oriental, NCPittsburghPAOrientalNCSumocean34Oriental,
NCGreenvilleNCOrientalNC
Time In A Bottle112Oriental, NCRaleighNCOrientalNC-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 10:49 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Looks like maybe there are two boats in Oriental. I don’t recognize the
names as anyone on the mailing list.Sumocean34Oriental, NC GreenvilleNCOrientalNCTime In A Bottle112Oriental,
NCRaleighNCOrientalNC-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 10:37 PM, sunblock wrote:
If so let me know, would love to see one in person
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Looks like maybe there are two boats in Oriental. I don’t recognize the
names as anyone on the mailing list.Sumocean34Oriental, NCGreenvilleNCOrientalNCTime In A Bottle112Oriental, NC
RaleighNCOrientalNC-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 10:37 PM, sunblock wrote:
If so let me know, would love to see one in person
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!In Banderas Bay (Puerto Vallarta) we were playing a lot with this
configuration during our day sailing. Its very nice.-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 3:46 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Sailing on the west end of O’ahu is always challenging, unless you sail
far off shore. The mountains and valleys can funnel the 15-20 trades to
30+ and keeps you on your toes. Our approach is to sail with jib and
jigger, which eliminates hassling with reefing and constantly trimming a
main. Of course, we’re never in a hurry.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Your Mizzen has any roach worth speaking of? With the topping lift and
running backs the 2′ wide headboard on my mizzen hangs up all the time as
it is. Given the small size of our mizzens I doubt the .01% loss in sail
size would amount to much loss at all. Completely agree with you about the
mainsail though.-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 7:36 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Jack,A roller furling mizzen sail would probably be as handy as a roller
furing main, with the same performance compromize of a sail with no
roach. That’s a personal judgment call. But it would be ashame to switch
just because your bimini top is in the way.For some reason I cannot fathom, I seem to be the only one among us –
and as far as I’ve seen, the only one in the world – with a bimini that
actually works with an aft cockipit ketch (photos attached). It makes
handling the mizzen sail quick and easy, so I fly mine often. The only
down side is that the zippers leak a little in heavy rain. Ergo I made a
bimini tent fly, which keeps out rain but precludes using the mizzen
sail, so it’s only useful in port.Because I sail in the Caribbean, my bimini top is primarily a sun shade
and the zipper leaks aren’t a huge issue. In the Pacific Northwest you’d
probably want a completely rainproof roof over the cockpit so my
zip-flap bimini design would not be ideal – unless there’s a way to
waterproof the zippers that I don’t know about.Sailboat Rule Number 1: Everything is a compromise.
Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’m a little younger than you and we hardly ever raise the mizzen because
its a pain with the bimini up (its always up). I think a roller furling
mizzen is an awesome compromise!-p
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W7PEAOn Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 7:47 PM, calicojack wrote:
Hi Guys:
I’ve got a chance to buy an almost new roller furler that was on the
mizzen of a 42 Brewer ketch. I haven’t had a chance to do any measuring yet
as far as the length of the boom or the luff of the mizzen. The guy is even
throwing in a very nice sail. Does anybody have a roller furl. system on
the mizzen. Your thoughts on making the swap? Does it make life at 65
easier? I have a helluva time raising & lowering the sail and getting the
sail cover on/off my boat due to the construction of the bimini. I
appreciate any input.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
