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Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI was doing a search for halyard relacemnts in the forum and found this thread.I did a rough measure of my jib halyard by raising a tape up the furler (42′ to the deck) and then measuring the tail of the existing wirerope halyard to be 52′ from the splice to the bitter end. that comes out to be 94′ or close enough to 100′ to just call it 100′ for me.
Just wanted to check if that sounded about right to all of you.
Thanks,
-patrickOwners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI think you mean Fein Multimaster: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fein_Multimaster_RS
That’s a good idea.I’ve found that using a real paint scraper and a little heat gun action has worked pretty well. I might give one of those a try too.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorWhat kind of fabric?
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI removed the “required answers” that way you can skip sails.
I just lumped jib and genoa together into Working Jib, but I know everyone else might not.-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThanks now I know I can get rid of it. The metal bars are almost solid rust inside the plastic coating anyway, so I don’t think it would have been of use to anyone.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorOK, I should have googled first. I think it’s Dyform, but I’m not sure.
http://www.pyacht.com/online-store/scstore/h-dyform_wire.htm
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorWhen I was looking at boats for sale one had standing rigging where the wires were smoothed over a bit (I know I’m not explaining that well) so the whole strand had a smoother feel to it. When you looked at it closely basically the wires on the outside looked like they had been squished to create a series of closely aligned flat surfaces. Not sure what stuff is called and I remember the broker saying it was expensive, but it might be something to consider.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorGood Practical Sailor article on external (outside the tank) gauges:
http://www.scadtech.com/cms/other/PracticalSailorTankMonitorComparison.pdf
SCAD Tech was one of the “Recommended” products.I’d love to find their article on internal tank sensors too.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThe one we currently have is a Jabsco Par*Max 2. I can’t even find that on their website anymore, so I don’t know much about it. I forget the rating on it, but as Dawn says it really is loud, you can seriously hear it two slips away with just one faucet running.
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
Spectatorhttp://www.thetanktender.com/about.htm
That actually looks pretty simple to install.-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorThe direct link: https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/UNABATED-Refer-Project
I’m not sure what the project was. I take it you added the left-hand access hatch and the bottom door, is that correct?
I’m curious about this shot from the inside looking outboard: https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/UNABATED-Refer-Project/IMG_0172
My P.O. closed up a bunch of the refer but I think they just did it by putting some panels inside and did not actually add insulation or remove the old refer liner. Is this picture the original box, i.e., if I started removing stuff I’d find a huge area we’re not using behind my now smaller refer?The reason I ask is that while I think our smaller refer is pretty close to ideal; I’m also thinking I want to get into all that space back there and use it for something else.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa – Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorHere is the link to Bob’s post on replacing the water tank access panels. Looks like a nice fix.
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2007/08/beautiful-solution.html
-p
s/v Deep Playa – Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorYep, that leaks too. 🙂
I’m going to remove the teak eyebrow trim completely and seal up all those little holes. Like Hi Flite did: http://www.hiflite.org/eyebrow.htm
As for the portholes, I have six plastic portholes which are caulked closed to prevent them from leaking and between when those did leak and the leaky eyebrow my veneer along the cabin top is shot, delaminating and rotting. Since I have to re-do 6 and have to pull out all 10 to re-do the veneer I might as well do all 10. We’ll do it in stages though for sure.
If anyone has any replaces the cabin top veneer (along the portholes on the inside) do pass along pics. We’re actively thinking about our options for that. We’re hoping to brighten up the space a bit but not quite go all the way to bright white Formica. Suggestions are always welcome!
Thanks,
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorHey Alan, any pics of your new portals? We’re going to be doing all 10 of them (yikes!)
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI don’t’ have the link handy, but I saw one owner who had made a bracket to mount them in the head under the laundry bag.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick<.. snip>
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
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