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That’s what they recommended for my high-mileage RV this summer. Funny
thing, it was not with the other oil at the auto store. It was in a special
“more expensive” section. The sales dude said all the truckers used it.-p
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http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Wed, Mar 27, 2013 at 9:36 PM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
Rotella 30 weight. I put that s**t in everything.
Adam Silverstein
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!If you’re in seattle, DEFINITELY go there!
Email LisaSent from my Surfboard
On Feb 14, 2013, at 18:00, pma_foyl wrote:
Hi All,
Thanks so much for the great replies. So it seems like nobody here (or reading the forum lately) has used RiggingOnly very recently. Looks like Paul (2008) and Tor (2007) and it seems like $5k is the number.
Patrick’s Pt Townsend suggestion might be my way to go (since I’m in Seattle).
Again, thank you all for your suggestions.
Best,Paul
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!No, I had the rig off (refininshed the spars) it was very easy to put it
all back together. THe only challenge was finding the proper clevis pins.
One set I couldn’t find at all and had them made.-p
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http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 4:41 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
Quote:Thanks Patrick,That’s really good info. Was that for installing the rig too?
Best,
Paul
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!IN 2010, I paid ~$4950 including WA State Sales tax for my entire rig
including isolating the upper leg of the backstay for SSB.I used Port Townsend Rigging and they re-used turnbuckles which did not
need replacing. I think all of them were fine if I recall correctly. You
might try getting a quote from them as well.Hope that helps.
-p—
http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 9:47 AM, pma_foyl wrote:
Hi All,
I’m trying to get a quote for Standing Rigging on a P424 Ketch, including
(SSB antenna/insulators) from RiggingOnly.com. They don’t have any records
of the specs for a P424 ketch, but said if I get a couple names/dates of
people they’ve provided rigging to, they can give me a pretty accurate
quote.Of course, I’ll still have to measure my actual rig, to ensure the rig is
right for this vessel.I’d appreciate if anyone could give me their name and approx date of
re-rig. Also, what your general feelings about using RiggingOnly.com was.
Did you think you saved alot? did you install and/or tune the rig yourself?
If you used someone else, do you still think ordering the rigging was a
cost saver? Any other insight you might provide would be greatly
appreciated.thank you,
Paul
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Site looks safe to me:
http://opencpn.org/ocpn/opencpn_manual-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEAOn Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 3:49 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Can someone either email me the most current OpenCPN User Manual, or else
tell me (with certainty) where I can download it safely? I think I’m on a
safe site where I can read it online, but if they’re offering a way to
download it they are being very discrete about it.Thanks,
iWizKid
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I know his has come up before. Try searching the list archive at
https://pearson424.org.-p
Sent from my Surfboard
On Jan 29, 2013, at 8:51, cstewart wrote:
Does anyone have any experience replacing a fuel pump for a W60?
I wanted a spare for my trip next month so I asked my diesel guy to just order me one. Then he said it was $422 plus tax, tag and title. I said woah. Is that reasonable? I thought a fuel pump should be $42 , but since it was marine it would be $142. Has anybody bought one lately?
Thanks, Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I am so very happy I added the track to store the pole on the mast. 99.99%
of the time you don’t use the pole and its nice to have it off the deck and
out of the way of everything.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEAOn Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:33 PM, cstewart wrote:
For what it’s worth, mine is a 12-18 ft telescope with 3.5 diameter,
aluminum Works great. Kinda heavy, though. Stores on a bracket on the
stanchions. Genoa is a 135.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Huh, I guess my initial query missed some records.
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W7PEAOn Thu, Jan 24, 2013 at 11:57 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
1979 ketch owned by some folks from Hillsboro OR
Sold 10 yrs or so ago
**
HIN USCG
PEA59063M79F 605538boat info
Patrick Walters wrote, On 1/24/13 11:42 AM:
Anyone recall a P424 named Belvedere? Our surveyor said he’d surveyed it
at
one point (not sure when) and its not on the hull number list at all.Just curious..
-Patrick
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here’s some info for you…
http://www.forespar.com/whiskerPoleSeminar.shtml
“Whisker poles should be 100% of the foot of whichever headsail is being
flown. Measure from the tack to the clew and the whisker pole should be
this length. You need to have some overlap in the pole. Poles telescoped to
their maximum length are at their weakest, strength-wise. Diameter is a
major function of strength. A 2-1/2″ diameter tube is as much as 70%
stronger than a 2″ diameter tube. Size does matter!
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W7PEAOn Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Hey Tor or Rich or anyone else out there! ..what length fixed pole would
you use with a 135% genoa?Joe,
Half Moon________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Teleflex Control Cables catalog
http://bit.ly/9zaTRhWidely available at chandleries.
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
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W7PEAOn Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 8:02 PM, Seawater wrote:
My cable started to seize up, so I used a generous amount of penetrating
oil as a temporary fix, then when the cable started to loosen up, I lubed
it with machine oil.I figured that the cable had started to rust internally and that it would
seize up again soon, so I had better replace it very soon. That was years
ago. Now I check the cables at the beginning of the season, and spray some
more oil down there.You may get away with lube for a while, like I did. Then again, if it
seizes again while docking in a crosswind…If you source a cable please let me know the particulars.
Walter
SV Madness
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have changed my transmission cable. Yo remove the compass as you
have already done. Next you need to loosen the screw on the aft center
of the pedestal. This screw is tightening a clip against the inside of
the pedestal to retain the cable housings. I ended up removing the
entire cog assembly in order to reach everything. Don’t drop the cog
down inside. It will be a pain to get it out. 🙂-Patrick
Sent from my Surfboard
On Jan 19, 2013, at 9:48, cstewart wrote:
O.k., I did that. I removed the pin from the cable inside wire, however the cable jacket is still attached to the pedestal inside somewhere down there (about 12-15 inches), where I can’t get to it. Is there a trick to reaching that connection?
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Yeah, we just don’t think HI is a great boating area. We’re looking forward
to approaching the surf breaks from the shore.-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, Dec 6, 2012 at 2:05 PM, quent wrote:
Patrick-
It’s not too late! Tor would probably deliver her to you!
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!+1 for the composting toilet…. Sooooo simple.
-p
Sent from my Surfboard
On Dec 1, 2012, at 9:31, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:You could go to a composting head. See article here:http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina%20Oceani/Ar … ov2011.pdf
No jokers on my boat!
Pete
On 12/1/2012 8:21 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Hi Tor,
We do all of the tips you mentioned. Still we get what seems like the beginning of a coral reef on the joker and the flapper, and the piston gasket wears too quickly.
We have also experienced cracking of the plastic pump housing, at the base. Perhaps due to vigorous pumping action after a #2.
Joe,________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!What I’ve heard about these kind of things is…
Drill
Drain
RepairOther than that I’m not much help, but its the kind of thing I’d pay
someone to do.-p
Sent from my Surfboard
On Nov 17, 2012, at 13:30, Joseph Steiner wrote:
That’s right..a cracked keel..I nudged a coral reef in the Bahamas 5 years ago and now a survey shows a bit of seepage of water from the bilge as she sits on the hard.
I wonder if anyone here has had to repair a keel.
Mine has some epoxy ( and maybe some cement too? ) in the bilge ( which has cracked and that is now a problem as it has trapped water) which ultimately will cause fiberglass breakdown..an expensive fix to take out the epoxy/cement and repair the keel from the inside. I’m told just patching from the outside is a band-aid which will need repair again in 2-3 years.Does anyone have experience with such a problem?
many thanks,
Joe Steiner
s/v Half Moon
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I want to second what Bob is saying about ensuring a fair lead into the
drum. It should be 90 degrees and into the center. When I took the Brion
Toss weekend class we walked the docs and he pointed out problems on boats.
This was one of them….I used Spinlock stanchion leads on my boat and I”ve been happy with them
thus far.
Lead Blocks for the entry and exit of the run
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/organisers/wl-range/stanchion-furling-line-lead-2Lead Bullseyes for the middle run
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/organisers/wl-range/stanchion-furling-line-lead-p
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W7PEAOn Sat, Nov 10, 2012 at 6:13 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Tor and John,
The thing I really like about the ProFurl is that the important parts are
made of titanium. Very light, very tough, and no corrosion. The thing I
don’t like is the same thing Dos Locos didn’t like – the anti-wrap device.
But once up, I’ve never had a problem with it, so it’s a aesthetic issue.As far as working by hand: I’ve found that the biggest reason they can’t
be worked by hand is that the furling line is led improperly. It took me
two years to figure that out – very often (all I’ve seen, anyway) the last
block before the furling drum is attached to the bottom of the pulpit
stanchion, so the winding force is actually at an acute angle to the
drum. By moving the block up so that it pulls perpendicularly to the drum
gives two advantages: the first; the drum wraps perfectly and allows more
line to fit without jamming allowing a larger sail or more wraps when
furled to prevent auto unwind when in storm conditions, and the second;
because the force is in the direction you want it to be it’s easier to
furl.Before I moved the block up, even in modest winds (20kts or so) it was
difficult to furl and I had to start with the winch. After moving, just
slackening the sheet a bit will allow me to hand furl without a problem up
beyond 35 kts. So, before you spend a bunch of money on a new furler, if
you have your last block near the cap rail, move it up – give it a whack
and see what you think.Bob
On Fri, Nov 9, 2012 at 9:36 PM, skipmac wrote:
I just bought a new furler. Read all the research and comments from
sailors. Practical Sailor also did a test on the new generationfurlers a
year or so ago. Got down to Hood or Harken and I decided on the Harken.
But it’s still in the box and I haven’t installed it yet so can’t giveany
first hand report on how well it works.
Also, I have to admit that a year later I can’t remember why I picked the
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
