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This post on putting in our New Found Metals portlights might be
helpful. we also had dry rot in teh teak veneer. Our coverup went
well, but we were wrong about it never getting wet and will need to
redo some of it. New rule, don’t try to save a penny by using
non-marine grade plywood!!http://deepplaya.com/new-portlights/
There are other posts and pics in our flickr account too.
-p
Sent from my Land Yacht
On Aug 20, 2012, at 6:36 PM, Jim Ashworth wrote:
i discovered dry rot under the fixed portlights in the head and
shower….removed them to get at the rot, and will repair that either by
replaciing the plywood, or go to starboard in there. The ports have a
cutout of 7.5″ by 21.5″; I’m thinking about replacing them with opening
ports…..anyone do that? Recommend a manufacturer and dimensions of
replacement that worked? Or if I put the originals back in, where do I get
the gasket material that goes between port and outside fiberglass? Jim
Ashworth. Hull 32 (Peregrine)On Friday, June 29, 2012, wrote:
Charlie
I did a web-search for marine stores that carry portlight gaskets andfound one online that sells a square gasket of the proper dimension. It
took a bit of hunting but you should be able to do the same search and find
them. I’m sorry I don’t have their contact information handy. I purchased
enough material to do the job twice. I have enough onhand to replace the
gaskets again in about 10 years.Quote:Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have well constructed sails with great cloth, but I don’ think the shape
is awesome. If you wanted to greatly improve the pointing or any thing
else, I’d look for a sail maker who works on race boats will come out with
you and sail on your boat in light and heavy winds before s/he decides the
right cut for your jib. Also, expect to pay extra for such service.-p
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W7PEAOn Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
If you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
tightly.Bob
On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater
wrote:I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.
Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.
My priorities are:
Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
likely to be an issueMy big questions are:
How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
says the 145 might helpHow high a clew?
Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
(that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
my lack of hydraulic tensioner)BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by
reefing
the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I
roll
in part of the jib.
Walter
Walter
SV Madness
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I agree completely with you that the instruments should be forward of the
mizzen. When the autopilot or windvane are steering, we sit just as you
suggest, up out of the wind. On the longer legs coming down the west coast,
motoring a lot, we frequently sat right in the companion way, which was
nice an cozy.Above the companionway is only a head bumper a few times, then you learn to
twist as you go down the companionway.-p
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W7PEAOn Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 10:20 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Seems to me that mounting instrument read-outs at the helm only serves
for day-sailing. When cruising, people rarely stand at the helm except
when entering and leaving harbors. Instead, watch-keepers tend to hang
out in the forward corners of the cockpit, snuggled up behind the spray
dodger, and/or on the seats to port & starboard of the mizzen mast in
milder weather. Only in the most settled conditions might someone choose
to sit farther aft than that. The skipper, when not on watch, pokes his
head up out of the companionway from time to time to check course and
speed, etc. Last thing he needs, watch after watch, is to have to
clamber aft to the helm to see how the boat’s doing.No, for cruising it makes sense to position instrument read-outs where
they can be read from forward of the mizzen mast (as well as from the
helm), i.e., mounted just aft of the dodger, either on the coachhouse
(starboard side because the mainsheet winch is to port), or else across
the forward end of the main companionway. Of the two, the companionway
mount seems preferable because it’s equally visible from either side of
the cockpit, which the coachhouse aft starboard corner mount is not.Question: Is the above-the-companionway instrument pod a head-banger?
Anyone?Dan mentioned a wireless, moveable pod. First I’ve heard of that, and it
could be the ideal location solution. Set it on the binnacle for
day-sails and harbor navigation, and otherwise behind the dodger when
cruising. Very cool.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I wanted to mount a Maretron display above my companion way and the “pod”
options were so ridiculously expensive and HUGE, that I went without a POD
and mounted the Maretron a board and attached it to the SS dodger pipes.
Hard for me to believe, but I don’t have anything written up on my blog. I
can’t find any pics either.
Wow, I really dropped the ball there.Basically, I used hinged 90 degree T’s to go around the dodger pipes. These
then go to a 9 inch or so piece of vertical SS pipe. On the end of these
vertical pieces, there is an end fitting and then a deck hinge atached to
the wood. this will help with that.
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1290-bimini-fittingsThe wood is nothing special, but I painted it with an exterior marine grade
white paint.
One year out and its helpd up great.For routing wires, I used a Maretorn bulkhead pass through for my NMEA 2000
wire above the navstation and at the base of the dodger foot. Then I zip
tied the wire to the dodger. For any other wires I’ve had to pass through
the deck or the mast, I’ve used Cable Clams from Blue Sea Marine and I love
them! http://bluesea.com/category/82/productline/overview/1Hope that helps.
-patrick
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W7PEAOn Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 7:24 AM, Dale L wrote:
I am getting ready to move my instruments to a pod above the companionway.
I am wondering who else has done this and how and where you fed the
cables. At some point I will have to feed them through the deck and don’t
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Hmm… of course now I just put the housing back on and I can’t see exactly
what you’re talking about. but yes. There are hoses from the oil cooler to
the oil filter.
You can sort of see that here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5938042863/I get the gist of what you’re saying, maybe that filter assembly can be
moved…-p
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W7PEAOn Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 5:00 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I’ve been looking at my W58 and if I’m correct, the oil filter is ALREADY a
remote filter – there are two hoses to it, which on a filter means one’s a
goesinta, and the other is a goesouta. Other W58s used as generator motors
have filters on the other side of the engine that are vertical. I’ll have
to look more carefully or if anyone has taken it apart, disabuse me of my
idea…Bob
On Mon, Jun 18, 2012 at 3:35 PM, Peaboy Walters <
wrote:
When you pull the oil filter on the W58 there is really no easy way to
get
a catch basin under it and being mounted horizontally means a mess is
about
to happen if you’re not super carefiul.
Has anyone converted their W58 to have a remote oil filter? I see kits
out
there for other engines, was thinking this might be a nice upgrade if its
relatively cheap.In other news we’re getting the boat ready to be left in Banderas Bay for
the summer and go back to the states and buy and old RV and play aroundin
it for the summer. We love a good fixer up! 😉
-patrick
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W7PEA
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Our pressurized water system is driven by a Jabsco Sensor Max VSD
31750 which draws from the tanks through an American Plumber W38-PRA
(W.5CB) filter which can have one of several filters installed designed to
remove sediment and chlorine or tiny little bacteria as needed.I think the Cold water side could benefit from an accumulator tank because
the pressure is stabstantially higher on the HOT side which goes through
the hot water heater. I don’t even know when we last turned that on, but I
think it’s tank acts like an accumulator. That said, the pressure isn’t bad
on the cold sider, it’s just better on the hot.Our old (original?) pump was so loud we were embarrased by it. This one is
great!
I should mention we elimintated the forward sink… saw no need for it!Plumbing overview: http://deepplaya.com/?p=160
Pics of the V-berth Modifications:
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=26558453@N03&q=v-berth10 Months off the dock and all of these things have been worth it!
-patrick
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W7PEAOn Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 9:00 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Any opinions on these new style FW pumps such as FLo-Jet variable sensor
units? Would 4.0 or 5.0 gpm be necessary for a galley sink and 2 heads?Thanks- I need to replace an aging Jabsco diaphragm style unit.
Rodd Leeds
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!You’ve got a great boat there, one many of us have looked to for guidance
in our refits and modifications. Welcome to the P424 Family!-p
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W7PEAOn Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:24 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob & Lyn,That guestbook sometimes (but not always) notifies me by email when
someone makes a new entry. This time it did, which is why I saw yours so
quickly. As for joining the P424 group/forum, I did it too long ago to
recall exactly how. If you have questions or problems with it, contact
.We all know or know about the Tyler’s and Whoosh, having followed their
sail west via occasional email updates from them and mutual friends.
Congratulations on getting a beautiful 424!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Dawn has a very powerful sniffer so things which might not bother you (or
me) she finds overwhelming. She really does smell the flowers. I think
flowers smelling is a myth.Our setup though is still based on the PC Fans inside the head, we have a
bunch of spairs that are lower power and move more air than the one which
the head came with. They are much quieter too, practically silent.-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:53 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Dawn,
what type of ventilation fan to you use with your Nature’s Head? I use a
12v muffin fan with my AirHead that runs 24×7. I do get brown mold during
the humid months, but it does not produce a odor in the head. My only
problem has been gnats, which is solved by sanitizing the whole system
including vent hose every 6 months while in southern climes. The heat and
humidity here in JAX has gone way up since Beryl came through. There is
mold in the compost bin, but it has not been a problem. I’ve been using
the Airhead since 2008 in Maryland, The Bahamas, N. Carolina and Florida.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:47 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
We installed Nature’s Head four years ago and loved it up until the
Mexico
summer has set in with the additional heat and humidity. We have had
major
issues with mold growing in the compost. It stinks up the boat
especially
when the wind blows across the exhaust. Some days it is so hot and humid
that the solids part of the head drips with condensation. So far we have
not found a solution to this problem. I have been in contact with Larry
from Nature’s Head and so far, the only recommendation he has is to add
some diotemaceous earth to the compost, but unfortunately, I can’t findit
in Mexico.
Thanks,
Dawn
s/v Deep PlayaOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:37 AM,
wrote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!HA!
Tor, were not supposed to say those things out-loud outside of “The Lodge”.
😉-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:33 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Rich,I think you’re confusing practical/logical/rational with pleasing the
wife.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!They will pry out with a stiff 1″ putty knife and a hammer, or even better
a Fein Multimaster with the blade attachment. You will markup the gel coat
around the prt a bit, but nothing you can’t clean and polish out if your
even a little careful (and I am ussually not so careful).You will then need to clean up all the silicone under there…
-p
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W7PEAOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 7:11 AM, kalinowski wrote:
Rather than spring for the bling of Newfound Metals ports, I procured a
set of four opening ports from another owner. I had them sandblasted, trim
rings annealed to make them true, and powder coated. I replaced the lenses
with Lexan AB, a highly scratch and UV resistant plastic. They look
better than new for a total of $300.Now I have to pull the old ones out and install the rebuilt units. Does
anyone have any tips on getting the old ports out with minimal damage to
boat and port? I thought I’d ask before I get out the hammer. By the way,
I’ll soon have some old ones to pass on if anyone is interested.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Don’t you love free fixes!
-p
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W7PEAOn Sat, May 26, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:Culprit was the raw water strainer! filled with eel grass. simply
emptied it and cleaned it out, started engine, and all is good again!
Thanks for the tips men!!Rodd
Windseeker
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Thanks everyone for all the info. I just wanred to know if I was crazy.
Sounds like we’re all in the same spot with the comfort of the seating. I
will add that my Nvv Station modification is VERY comfortable. Its where I
spend 80% of my siting time.I’m really interested in this chair idea. So you’re going to take a chair,
put it on a swivel and attach it to the boards covering the water tank….
is that it?-p
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W7PEAOn Fri, May 25, 2012 at 9:05 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Only if the pilot wants to sleep sitting up…. (ala international economy
class….) ;^)I figured that having the chairs on the port side gives us the pullman on
port and the settee on starboard.Pete
On 5/25/2012 5:07 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,Cool! I’ve always liked easy chairs in a boat big enough to accommodate
them. Thought about puttikng them in Silverheels, but having 2 salon
crew berths has proven useful during offshore passages, when I sometimes
have extra crew along. Have you considered ways to convert the chairs to
a temporary pilot berth?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!We have the hydrovane and I like it. A lot of people who came down the West
Coast to mexico just used their auto-pilots. Now that we’re not going to
cross the pacific, I think I would have thought harder about that route
instead of the windvane.-p
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W7PEAOn Fri, May 25, 2012 at 11:27 AM, Mark Sherman wrote:
In preparation for my first cruise from US to Caribbean, considering
adding a windvane to Nokomis. We already have davits and solar panels on
the bimini under the mizzen boom to complicate matters. Would prefer to
minimize lines in cockpit. Any good or bad experiences with Auto-Helm?
Other suggestions? Mark Sherman, NOKOMIS, #183.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have two zincs on my shaft and no prop zinc. I think you could put as
many as you want, but two is probably more than enough, but better than one
in case one fails.-patrick
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W7PEAOn Thu, May 17, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Hi everyone,
I need some pointers in what anodes to put on the shaft etc. for salt
water. I am on Lake Ontario and in the next two to three weeks will be
going out the St. Lawrence, through the Maritimes, New England and points
south after that.
I have a Max prop and it has a cone shaped anode on the hub. How many on
the shaft?Thanks
Jack
Xanadu
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!The belt ID for my W58 with a Leece-Neville Alternator is 25-9440
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEAOn Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:19 PM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Jack,
I don’t know if this will help you or not, I just had the alternators
rebuilt and the belt number that was on the Balmar was “Premium 25-10555”.
I don’t know what the profile of the belt is and my engine is a Perkins.Jack
XanaduOn Tue, May 15, 2012 at 6:26 PM, calicojack wrote:
Thanks Pete – I have the alternator off. I’ll try the industrial belt
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
